Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower.

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pauliewalnut

pauliewalnut

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Hi guys,
this is my first real indoor grow although I have grown multiple outdoor crops, I'm at day 65 of flower, trichromes are still clear but my upper fan leaves are turned yellow and dry and some of the sugar leaves have started now too, this happened quickly from looking like a slight magnesium or nitrogen deficiency to completely yellow dry leaves in a week, I'm flushing now but haven't changed anything else but I think this may have even started before the flush, I did give is a little Cal Mag in the last feeding when I first noticed. I'm in a mix of soil and coco in fabric pots, I've been using Dutch Nutrient Formula for my base and Advanced Nutrients additives at the hobbyist level, I use a 1000 watt LED and a few 4ft t8 grows just for a little extra light around the edges. only one of my plants are doing this but another has started, all 5 are different strains, the one that started doing this first is a Durban Poison. I PH at 6 and tested the run off for the first time the other day and it was 5.4. I don't really know where to go fro here, I'd like to wait a little longer until the trichromes get more cloudy but don't want what ever this is to effect them either. I've talked to a few people in different discords about it but can't really get any where, some of said leave fade but I haven't seen others dry out like that. If anyone could help me out with this I'd greatly appreciate it.
Leaves

This is how it started. The others are from a day ago
Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower
Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower 2
Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower 3
Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower 4
Yellow dry leaves day 65 of flower 5

Sorry for the pic quality.
 
Jimster

Jimster

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You aee pretty far along in flowering...I would normally say that yellowing leaves aren't unusual later in flowering, but something is insulting those larger leaves. Normally they would yellow then fall off, while these look necrotic and burned/crispy. A runoff in the 5 range is way too acidic for my comfort level... wood ashes mixed into your soil will help to prevent this. I think the acidity is the problem, but the question might be what is the cause of the acidity? I'm assuming that the lights aren't too close to be causing burning .When your Ph gets too low or high, it affects the availability of the nutrients to be taken up by the plants, often making hem unavailable for the plant to use, something called lockout. Leaves can take a few weeks to show damage, so whatever is causing the problem might have happened a few weeks ago and not showing up until now.
My suggestion would be to perform a slurry Ph test, which tests the actual soil PH and not just runoff. Depending on the results, I would address the Ph issue, although it might be too late for this grow, since your plants are getting close to ready. Some Sativa strains will almost lose all of their leaves and look a little similar to yours, but the leaves do not normally look burnt or crispy. Did you spray them with anything a few weeks back?. Keep us posted.
 
FTCG

FTCG

117
43
Crispy... Natural dying of the leaves should still be lush.

Being at day 65 there isn't much that can be done. Keep flushing, and lower light levels a bit which should drop your temps a little as well and further prevent damage.

Chop them down before the damage gets to the buds.

The plants are too green to be natural senescence. Mostly all of the leaves should be lightning up.

I would chalk this up to temps being a little to high in late flower.

I say temps because, when I raise the temps in my room (80-85 degrees), my plants green up over the course of a single day within two days they are dark green with a nitrogen toxicity.

When I run my rooms cooler like say 70-72 degrees, the plants never go dark green at all. And buds finish a nice lime green. I use this to manipulate grow, and it takes practice not to over do it.

If the temps have been on the higher end throughout the grow, then this is typically the result.
 
Last edited:
pauliewalnut

pauliewalnut

12
3
Crispy... Natural dying of the leaves should still be lush.

Being at day 65 there isn't much that can be done. Keep flushing, and lower light levels a bit which should drop your temps a little as well and further prevent damage.

Chop them down before the damage gets to the buds.

The plants are too green to be natural senescence. Mostly all of the leaves should be lightning up.

I would chalk this up to temps being a little to high in late flower.

I say temps because, when I raise the temps in my room (80-85 degrees), my plants green up over the course of a single day within two days they are dark green with a nitrogen toxicity.

When I run my rooms cooler like say 70-72 degrees, the plants never go dark green at all. And buds finish a nice lime green. I use this to manipulate grow, and it takes practice not to over do it.

If the temps have been on the higher end throughout the grow, then this is typically the result.
That low? Maybe that's it, I have been running high 70s low 80s.
Thanks
 
E

eirI

396
93
Hi guys,
this is my first real indoor grow although I have grown multiple outdoor crops, I'm at day 65 of flower, trichromes are still clear but my upper fan leaves are turned yellow and dry and some of the sugar leaves have started now too, this happened quickly from looking like a slight magnesium or nitrogen deficiency to completely yellow dry leaves in a week, I'm flushing now but haven't changed anything else but I think this may have even started before the flush, I did give is a little Cal Mag in the last feeding when I first noticed. I'm in a mix of soil and coco in fabric pots, I've been using Dutch Nutrient Formula for my base and Advanced Nutrients additives at the hobbyist level, I use a 1000 watt LED and a few 4ft t8 grows just for a little extra light around the edges. only one of my plants are doing this but another has started, all 5 are different strains, the one that started doing this first is a Durban Poison. I PH at 6 and tested the run off for the first time the other day and it was 5.4. I don't really know where to go fro here, I'd like to wait a little longer until the trichromes get more cloudy but don't want what ever this is to effect them either. I've talked to a few people in different discords about it but can't really get any where, some of said leave fade but I haven't seen others dry out like that. If anyone could help me out with this I'd greatly appreciate it.View attachment 869882
This is how it started. The others are from a day agoView attachment 869877View attachment 869878View attachment 869879View attachment 869880View attachment 869881
Sorry for the pic quality.
Nice plants ! Is the crispy leaves from over feeding
 
pauliewalnut

pauliewalnut

12
3
You aee pretty far along in flowering...I would normally say that yellowing leaves aren't unusual later in flowering, but something is insulting those larger leaves. Normally they would yellow then fall off, while these look necrotic and burned/crispy. A runoff in the 5 range is way too acidic for my comfort level... wood ashes mixed into your soil will help to prevent this. I think the acidity is the problem, but the question might be what is the cause of the acidity? I'm assuming that the lights aren't too close to be causing burning .When your Ph gets too low or high, it affects the availability of the nutrients to be taken up by the plants, often making hem unavailable for the plant to use, something called lockout. Leaves can take a few weeks to show damage, so whatever is causing the problem might have happened a few weeks ago and not showing up until now.
My suggestion would be to perform a slurry Ph test, which tests the actual soil PH and not just runoff. Depending on the results, I would address the Ph issue, although it might be too late for this grow, since your plants are getting close to ready. Some Sativa strains will almost lose all of their leaves and look a little similar to yours, but the leaves do not normally look burnt or crispy. Did you spray them with anything a few weeks back?. Keep us posted.
I did spray it a few weeks ago with a neem oil mixture to try to slow down fungus gnats. That wood ash thing sounds interesting, just from a wood stove or whatever? I'll see if I can do a slurry test if I can and let you know,
Thanks
 
E

eirI

396
93
I did spray it a few weeks ago with a neem oil mixture to try to slow down fungus gnats. That wood ash thing sounds interesting, just from a wood stove or whatever? I'll see if I can do a slurry test if I can and let you know,
Thanks
Thank's. I don't think so, It doesn't look like typical nutrient burn and I tend to feed on the light side too.
Thank you. Man do you agree what makes a good anything is troubleshooting.
 
FTCG

FTCG

117
43
That low? Maybe that's it, I have been running high 70s low 80s.
Thanks
It was an example, low temps cause my plants to be much lighter green and they yellow much quicker.

Raised temps make for a dark green plant.

So there is a sweet spot dependant on the genetics, but 74-75 degrees throughout will definitely keep them lighter green and smoother smoke at the end result.

I find the dark green burn harsher and has a bitter taste to it.

Next time keep it down to the mid 70's and you will get better results, and avoid excess greening. Buds will develop more as well.
 
E

eirI

396
93
It was an example, low temps cause my plants to be much lighter green and they yellow much quicker.

Raised temps make for a dark green plant.

So there is a sweet spot dependant on the genetics, but 74-75 degrees throughout will definitely keep them lighter green and smoother smoke at the end result.

I find the dark green burn harsher and has a bitter taste to it.

Next time keep it down to the mid 70's and you will get better results, and avoid excess greening. Buds will develop more as well.
It was an example, low temps cause my plants to be much lighter green and they yellow much quicker.

Raised temps make for a dark green plant.

So there is a sweet spot dependant on the genetics, but 74-75 degrees throughout will definitely keep them lighter green and smoother smoke at the end result.

I find the dark green burn harsher and has a bitter taste to it.

Next time keep it down to the mid 70's and you will get better results, and avoid excess greening. Buds will develop more as well.
Thank you. When you say excess greening
It was an example, low temps cause my plants to be much lighter green and they yellow much quicker.

Raised temps make for a dark green plant.

So there is a sweet spot dependant on the genetics, but 74-75 degrees throughout will definitely keep them lighter green and smoother smoke at the end result.

I find the dark green burn harsher and has a bitter taste to it.

Next time keep it down to the mid 70's and you will get better results, and avoid excess greening. Buds will develop more as well.
Thank you for sharing it makes sense
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

7,055
313
I did spray it a few weeks ago with a neem oil mixture to try to slow down fungus gnats. That wood ash thing sounds interesting, just from a wood stove or whatever? I'll see if I can do a slurry test if I can and let you know,
Thanks
Spraying neem oil on buds is not recommended, and certainly not past one month in flowering ? Not sure if that's responsible for the damage but you may possibly notice an off taste ?

Not sure why you would spray the buds to treat fungus gnats that live in the soil, have you checked the underside of the leaves carefully for other pests?
 
FTCG

FTCG

117
43
Also I'd like to point out, that with LED's the plant is able to assimilate nutrients more efficiently, so you can lower your ppm's a bit (10-15%) to prevent burn.

And it's possible you are having some lockout from your pH being a bit low. Nitrogen is better absorbed at a higher pH. Whatever nutrients you are putting into the soil at 6.0 pH, well they are reacting with the elements in the soil as well, and you are coming out with runoff at 5.4 pH. I would raise the pH of my feed to 7.0 - 7.5 and try to bring my runoff to 6.5 pH.

That way I know that all the available liquids in my soil are the correct pH for a soil medium.
 
pauliewalnut

pauliewalnut

12
3
Spraying neem oil on buds is not recommended, and certainly not past one month in flowering ? Not sure if that's responsible for the damage but you may possibly notice an off taste ?

Not sure why you would spray the buds to treat fungus gnats that live in the soil, have you checked the underside of the leaves carefully for other pests?
I've heard of the danger of the neem oil, but my local hydro store recommended it as part of a 3 prong approach, I did it in the flower stage but not too deep in, I also don't like using any sprays in the flower stage, It was probably longer than a few weeks. It's not pure neem oil either it's enhance nute with neem oil, So here's hoping I didn't damage them. I have not seen any other pests but it's spring so they should be coming out of the wood work anytime.
Thanks
 
pauliewalnut

pauliewalnut

12
3
Also I'd like to point out, that with LED's the plant is able to assimilate nutrients more efficiently, so you can lower your ppm's a bit (10-15%) to prevent burn.

And it's possible you are having some lockout from your pH being a bit low. Nitrogen is better absorbed at a higher pH. Whatever nutrients you are putting into the soil at 6.0 pH, well they are reacting with the elements in the soil as well, and you are coming out with runoff at 5.4 pH. I would raise the pH of my feed to 7.0 - 7.5 and try to bring my runoff to 6.5 pH.

That way I know that all the available liquids in my soil are the correct pH for a soil medium.
Okay, Thanks, I'm not 100% comfortable with my PH knowledge and know next to nothing about PPM, I have PPM tester, I just don't understand how you raise or lower it, Thanks for info.
 
FTCG

FTCG

117
43
Okay, Thanks, I'm not 100% comfortable with my PH knowledge and know next to nothing about PPM, I have PPM tester, I just don't understand how you raise or lower it, Thanks for info.
To raise or lower the "parts per million" of total dissolved solids, you simply dilute with water. The usual full strength nutrient blend is about 1200ppm-1600ppm in my experience.

So what you would do is just dilute your nutrients with an extra 10-15% water.
 
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