Cree Smd Xlamp Led Build

[Homesteader]

This is what Cree recommends in order to replace a 1000w HPS and I will be building this over the winter and documenting it here.

Cree SMD Xlamp LED build that equals a Gavita Pro 1000w HPS




The Cree light is a 553W build that uses 48 XP-E Photo Reds and 144 4000K XP-G3. I am still working on sourcing a few of the parts but here is what I have so far. I am going to use a cheaper heatsink but I am still looking around.


Cree Horticulture X Lamps





Cree XP-E 660 photo red





Cree XP-G3








Ledil Strada 2x6 Optic Assembly

http://www.symmetron.ru/suppliers/lighting/files/lighting/led/secondary_optics/array_lens/Ledil/2x6/High Bay/CS14130_HB-IP-2X6-W drawing.pdf


https://led.cdiweb.com/ProductDetai...tCBHgXIBfOJZNVdpybEglxDD1CX8KACgu4aArf18P8HAQ

Graftech HITHERM Thermal Interface



https://led.cdiweb.com/ProductDetail/G10230-GrafTech-International-Holdings-Inc/598641/


Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050B Driver

 

[Horto]

Cree Horticulture Reference Design
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...rence-Designs/HorticultureReferenceDesign.pdf

I have decided to change the design for a (900 x 900 Grow area)
9 PCB version with 96 LED's @ approx 292.5W
PCB (145x43.5mm)

The dotted lines represent 145mm long PCB's.

63.5mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 63.5
^
Row Spacing = 300mm.
v
63.5mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 63.5
^
Row Spacing = 300mm.
v
63.5mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 127mm >-------------------< 63.5

-
HEATSINK SELECTION
This change from the original design will also need a solution for suitable heat sinks?
I am looking for a Heatsink around the width of PCB.
Heatsink approx (43.5mm) wide and (850-900mm) long.
-
DRIVER SELECTION
3x “3 PCB Modules”. (Each Module would consist of 3x 12 LED PCB connected long wise into strips).
Still working on the best Series/parallel arrangement to use an efficient Driver/s.

Looking at (Approx):
9x PCB = 311.0625W
311.0625W / 108 LED’s = 2.88W each.
108 LED’s x 2.89 V = 312.12 V.

XP-G3 LED: Forward voltage (@ 1000 mA, 85 °C) V 2.89.
Driver for 108 LED’s in Series:
Watts = Current x Volts.
311.0625W = 1 Amp x 312.12 V.
-----------------------------------
2x Parallel strings of 54 LED’s each.
Watts = Current x Volts.
155.52W = 1050ma x 156.06 V.

HLG-320H-C2100 76 ~ 152V 94.0%
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (max.) 156V
319.2W 2100mA
-----------------------------------
3x Parallel strings of 36 LED’s each.
Watts = Current x Volts.
103.68W = 1050ma x 104.04 V.
2x ELG-240-C2100 A 57~115V, 2100mA 93%
-----------------------------------
4x Parallel strings of 27 LED’s each.
Watts = Current x Volts.
77.76W = 1050ma x 78.03 V.

ELG-200-C2100 48~96V, 2100mA 92%
HLG-320H-C3500 46~91V, 3500mA 94.0%
LPC-100-1050 48~96V, 1050mA 90%
---------------------------------------------

There are a few possibilities, if the Drivers are suitable.

Regards,
Horto

 

[NightsWatch]

550 watts to replace 1000 watts i think is pushing it. and will fail
From what i am seeing 400 watts of cree is competing with 600's not blowing them out of the water ..
So i would think one would need around 850 - 900 watts to compete with a De unit

 

[Homesteader]

This really isn't about replace anything other than building a kick ass penetrating LED light. I doubt you have seen many DIY grows using xlamps let alone anything but COBs or mixed COBs with royal blues. Cree did the test showing PPFD models. Im not disputing anything either way. Faulty test? Who cares they are giving away a bad ass design. Their LED is at 4.9 feet compared to 1000w gavita at 3.2 feet in a 4x4'.
This is a design that focus the light quite heavily so I am interested to see what it does at lower canopy heights.

 

[Homesteader]

The Cree XP-E HE will be available soon....like this week. Not sure if the PCBs will still be 1950s but something to consider or inquire about.

 

[Homesteader]

@NightsWatch I think COBs are great for a simple, cheap yet effective way to build LED without PCBs. Maybe even a better way to build a grow light for a DIYer, but I just don't think it is wise to not listen to the who makes of these lamps. Whether it is one watt or five watts, all of the major industrial leaders recommend them over COBs for horticultural use. COBs have a use I believe, but so do these and they shouldn't be ignored in my opinion.

 

[Homesteader]

Sinkpad min. and pricing

1950 Sinkpad bare boards are $105 for 28 which is the min.

Assembled 1950 boards have a min of 22 which is a little under $500 and you provide the LEDs. They also have Ledil lenses for $5.50 each and graphite Tim for $1.95 but I didn't see either on their site..

http://aduraled.com/product/led-modules/1950-a-2x6

 

[Evil Monkey]

PCB???? I'm new to leds

 

[Homesteader]

Printed Circuit Board. Only required with SMD (surface mounted devices aka SMT/surface mounted tech.) COBs do not require the board. The board has the circuitry built in so all that is needed is to reflow solder mount the individual lamps onto the board. In this case 12 per board.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board

Comparison And Differences Between LED Technologies

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/comparison-differences-between-led-technologies-dip-vs-doris-li

 

[Horto]

Reverse Engineering the “Cree Horticulture Reference Design”

Assuming the build is rated at 25°C and each Driver powers 96 LED’s in series?
We know the Wattage and Drivers, to calculate the LED voltage of 2.743?

2x HLG-320H-C1050B 152 V to 305 V - 320.25 W - 94%
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (max.) 311V

*553W Cree Build Specs (16x PCB )
---------------------------------------------
Reverse Engineered Cree Build:
Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, *25? °C) V 2.743055555555555

263.3333333333333V / 96 LED’s = 2.743055555555555 volts each
276.5W = 1.05 Amp x 263.3333333333333V
276.5W x 2 = (*553W operating Watts)
---------------------------------------------
LED's:

XP-G3 LED (White - 4000 K - 70 CRI).
XPGDWT-01-0000-00LE5
Maximum DC forward current 2000ma.
Maximum Forward voltage 3V.
Forward voltage (@ 1000 mA, 85 °C) V 2.89
Forward voltage (@ 1500 mA, 85 °C) V 2.99
(1 ma per .0002 V)

Reverse Engineered Cree Build: Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, *25? °C) V 2.743055555555555
ESTIMATE: Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, 85 °C) V 2.90
ESTIMATE: Forward voltage (@ 1166 mA, 85 °C) V 2.9232

XP-E Red LED (Photo Red - 660 nm 90 CRI).
XPEPHR-L1-0000-00901
Maximum DC forward current 700ma.
Maximum Forward voltage 2.5
Forward voltage (@ 350 mA) V 2.1
Forward voltage (@ 700 mA) V 2.3

 

[Horto]

9x PCB - 108 LED Module
2 Parallel strings of 54 LED’s each.

Reverse Engineered Cree Build: Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, *25? °C) V 2.743055555555555.

If we use our Reverse Engineered LED Voltage Specs, we have 311 Watts @ 97.45% of voltage efficiency.
Note: Only Calculated on the use of XP-G3 LED's (White - 4000 K - 70 CRI).


148.125V / 54 LED’s = 2.743055555555555V each.
155.53W = 1.05Amp x 148.125V
2x 155.53W = 311 operating Watts.

HLG-320H-C2100 76 ~ 152V - 319.2W - 94.0%
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (max.) 156V?

0.6578947368421053 x 152V = 100%
0.6578947368421053 x 148.125V = 97.45% of voltage efficiency.
-----------------------------------

Here are the calculations for 85 °C showing the LED voltage exceeding driver specifications.

ESTIMATE: Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, 85 °C) V 2.90
(2100/2 = 1050ma per string)

156.6V / 54 LED’s = 2.9V each.
164.43W = 1.05Amp x 156.6 V
2x 164.43W = 328.86 operating Watts.

HLG-320H-C2100 76 ~ 152V - 319.2W - 94.0%
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (max.) 156V?

0.6578947368421053 x 152V = 100%
0.6578947368421053 x 156.6V = 103% (3% Over the Drivers Max Rating)
-----------------------------------

I am new to LED and Driver specifications.
Can someone check the maths and offer corrections if required?

For this Design:
What’s the correct equation’s for this driver and LED combination?
Will the LED’s exceed the driver specification at ambient running temperatures?

Is there an optimum current for these LED’s?
Looking at the data sheets it is somewhere between 750 – 1000ma.

Thanks

 

[Horto]

Just in case anybody tries to calculate the specs including the red, as with Cree design. !!

I will only be using XP-G3 (XPGDWT-01-0000-00LF6) LED's.

(No Reds)

All 108 LED's will be 3700 K – 70 CRI @179 lm.
These are the same Specification as the 4000 K, except for the color.

 

[Horto]

Please ignore all my previous attempts at understanding the "Cree Reference Design".
Unfortunately I cannot delete it, the way Cree has designed their "Reference" WTF.

Note: The Cree Horticultural Reference Design is more like a Reference Hack regarding electrical design, in the use of XP-E Red diodes to limit the current to XP-G3 LED’s.
Cree’s use of 1050 mA drivers must have been second to the LED design.

I am hoping the idea of omitting LED’s is a solution for DIY.

SEE: https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...isted-currents-voltage-and-temperature.85426/

Hope my understanding and maths is improving, feel free to chip in.

 

[Pazi]

In the Cree design, each driver (power supply) powers all the LEDs connected to it in series. You can assume 1000 mA (1 A) per supply - the total voltage adds to about 269 VDC. Mixing the XP-G3 and XP-E LEDs is not a problem because the 1000 mA current is just about perfect for both. The diodes take care of the exact voltages - you only need to control the current via the supply. You can also build shorter lines and cut the supply voltage accordingly - still current limit to 1 A (per line).
I have a Kind K5 1000 and get great results, but I also like this no-fan design. However, not sure if these two Cree LEDs have enough spectrum on the edges (UV and IR). Planning to build up a single line (~250 W) and try it for veg. instead of my current 400 W T5s (8 x 4').

 

[Horto]

In the Cree design

I am not too fussed about the spectrum, if so concerned about losing or gaining a few percent.
The question of efficiency is a combination of spectrum and the penetration or distance from light.
There are ways to gain efficiency without changing LED's, just better ways to use them.

There is a lot of vested interests in this forum.
I recommend you read this thread, and build what ever it is that you want.

DIY version of low profile led propagation fixture for small area?
Here: https://goo.gl/HfT0by

Quote:
If you choose 30XP-G3, 4.000°k, S4 bin and drive them with this HLG-C driver you should get Ø10530lm total or 175,5lm/w @55°C,
~54% eff.(+3% eff. is you get S5 bin)
59,5w LEDs/(x0,91%=)65,3w total from the wall,
27,4w heat, heatsink for passiv cooling should have at least 3300cm²
(a 3mm thick Alu-Sheet 75x 25cm in more than enough(3850cm²) and ultra-flat)
32,1PAR/w,
x 4,52μMol/j(4.000°k)= 145μMol/s PPF
or
PPFD without wall losses: Ø 520μMol/s/0,28m² (3 sft).

 

[jaybodankly]

$600 in chips. Guac is extra.