DIY LED with COBs - small medium and large grows

[Dan789]

Not to nightlight the obvious but you need a better execution on that splice, many safer ways to accomplish this connection. You can accomplish the same thing with a simple inline (replaceable) fuse going to your meanwell driver, utilizing insulated "sta-kons".

 

[1816 House]

Oh, I'm not using the stake-on connectors, just the cord. :)
I'll solder and double shrink tube the AC and DC outputs from the driver.
The cord itself is super flexible, double thick outer insulation. Perfect for going up and down and up and down.
I just need a compact 10 amp microswitch to connect it to.

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

Project h4ppySix begins with a beer, a joint and power tools.

lol, the best way to begin :D

 

[1816 House]

So, parts came for the h4ppySix Mini, and I got the general layout . These 140mm heatsinks are huge, almost a dollar bill across! The aluminum plate should shed some heat off the driver as well
I'm going to wire home runs to each COB, and splice it in series by the driver, not wiring in parallel.

I'm offsetting the COBs so there will be room for supplemental mini cob or quantum type bloom/veg lighting in the future,I may place driver differently also. The flat panel will still clear the filter and halon bottle if it's jacked all the way to the top.
I may just add a second microswitch instead of a pot for dimming. Does the switch (on/off) cause it to go (full on/Dimmer) or (on/ off)? not clear on that.

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

Does the switch (on/off) cause it to go (full on/Dimmer) or (on/ off)? not clear on that.

having the switch off (or open connection between the dim leads), the driver will deliver full power. Having the switch on(or closed connection between the dim leads) I believe may not shut them completely off. In my case, 0 ohms on the dim lines does shut the COBs off, but I don't thing Meanwell recommends this as a true shutoff and recommends shutting the COBs off by killing the input power to the drivers. I would have to go back and read the spec again... };-)

what @sixstring recommended to me was to put the switch in series with the pot so that if the switch was set to "on", the units are dimmable by the pot, with the switch set to off, the driver would be full on.

 

[1816 House]

In my case, 0 ohms on the dim lines does shut the COBs off, but I don't thing Meanwell recommends this as a true shutoff and recommends shutting the COBs off by killing the input power to the drivers.

Thats what I thought, but wasn't sure what ohm rating for dimming was best. I hate crappy pots, I want a good one.

This is 150 watts, plus the Roleandro is 138 watt= 288watt /8 sq ft=36 watt/ft.
It's Ok to finish this grow, the h4appySix Max will need to be 400watt/8 ft= 50 watt/ft
I can go with 4x100w COBs @70 v, or a couple other combos, but thats the cheapest.
The voltage topped out at 243v for another driver that could run 5x 50v, thats too bad. I can't recall the amp ratings.
The next combo was 6x36v to get to 54w/ft, i think.
No rush on that now, I'll have to do the ciphering later. :)

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

Thats what I thought, but wasn't sure what ohm rating for dimming was best.

The drivers I have want to 0 to 100K pot, I got mine from Digikey. All my COBs are running at 50Watts, plants seem to like it, I'll be posting pictures in my grow diary later tonight.

 

[sixstring]

100k pot to dim 1 driver.50k to dim 2 drivers off the same pot.33k for 3 drivers,25k for 4 drivers. You do not want to wire just a on/off switch to the dim leads,it needs to have a potentiometer in line with the on/off switch or just the pot alone.or a pwm dimming circuit that is 1 to 10v.some of the new bigger drivers can dim to off with a top quality dimming potentiometer or a zero to 10v pwm like audrino or bluefish ect.i have had some cheap amazon pots go bad and make my cobs flicker.removed the bad pots and we are bright as hell again :)

 

[1816 House]

.....i have had some cheap amazon pots go bad and make my cobs flicker.removed the bad pots and we are bright as hell again :)

My thoughts exactly, I didn't get one with the lights because 1)the one with this supplier looked cheesy and 2) I couldn't remember how they control output on power supplies.
Thanks for the quick rundown.

 

[1816 House]

The aluminum fab is mostly done, I mounted the hanger, heatsinks and driver, made a junction box, and cut aluminum channeling for the DC output wires (on the right and front) so it should be tidy. Those should be the only wires showing when done.
I've got a bit more fab work to do on the channeling and junction box, then wiring this weekend.

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

The aluminum fab is mostly done, I mounted the hanger, heatsinks and driver, made a junction box, and cut aluminum channeling for the DC output wires (on the right and front) so it should be tidy. Those should be the only wires showing when done.
I've got a bit more fab work to do on the channeling and junction box, then wiring this weekend.
View attachment 726571 View attachment 726572

Very nice!!!

 

[1816 House]

Junction box is finished for wires.
DC Out on left, AC on right. That LG A/C cord worked out just perfect , with a built in 10A circuit breaker.
Just the soldering ,wire rails and some minor hardware left.

 

[The Big Man]

Hey guys a lot of you know me from RIU or ICMag but for the LED growers here that have not seen it, here is the recipe for building DIY LED very cheaply. Why build a DIY lamp? You can get up to 49% efficiency if you can find the top bins and run them soft (700mA). You can get 36% efficiency with the mid bin running hard (1400mA). The best commercial LEDs (Area 51, Apache, Onyx) are in the low 30s. Another advantage is the ability to have remote drivers to keep that heat out of your grow space and away from the LED heatsinks.

Everything has changed since COBs became available to us. It is much easier to build a lamp and it turns out that 3000K works just fine on its own, better than HPS even.

One of the hardest things to teach is something you know real well. Or, I am just a dumb ass. I flew out the car at the first turn. Layman's terms may. (break it the fuck down) for electrical engineering idiots also
For the simplest build the best COBS to use are the Cree CXA3070 and Vero 29. The CXA 3000K has 14% blue and the Vero 3000K 8-10%. They are available on Digikey or if you need a bulk order you can save $ on Arrow.

As far as drivers go, 1.4A is a good compromise between cost and efficiency. They are available on eBay for $13, 90% efficient and power factor corrected. You can use Mean Well LPC-60-1400 but it is lower efficiency and not power factor corrected. If you want to run at 1050mA you can use Mean Well LPC-60-1050. The one I tested was 88% efficient.

For heatsinks, CPU coolers work great for small grows. The 92mm Arctic 11 Plus is a favorite because it can be found for $10 and uses a fluid dynamic bearing fan, lots of cooling power and not too loud. Amazon and Newegg sometimes offer them for $10. Currently outletPC has them for $10 with reasonable shipping cost.

If you are building a medium or large lamp, I recommend HeatsinkUSA 5.88" profile. A 12" length is good for (2) COBs and a 24" length is good for (4) COBs. You can cool it with a single 140mm fan to make a super efficient cooling combo. I recommend the Prolimatech 140mm from Amazon. It is quiet even at 13V and moves a lot of air.

View attachment 415611

The Vero is solder free but the Cree requires a COB holder and to go solder free. Both methods require drilling and tapping the heatsink. I don't mind the soldering so rather than drilling, I mount the COB with Prolimatech PK3 thermal paste and then use kapton to tape the COB in place so it cannot slide sideways. The paste makes a very strong vacuum when you press the COB onto the heatsink. It will not come off from gravity or heat. If you try to pry it off it will break. You have to twist it and then slide it sideways to get it off.

Small build:
View attachment 415595

Medium build:
View attachment 415593

Large build:
View attachment 415594

 

[1816 House]

So, all done, and then I try to straighten out a wire on the last COB, and popped the solder tab off on one side, straighten it out and pop the second. Got lazy and should of re soldered it. Another one on order, next week..
Then see that the mystery seeds are Autoflower (in a scrog) , one is a male, and there goes 1/3 of the tent, but I don't need the second light as badly now.

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

So, all done, and then I try to straighten out a wire on the last COB, and popped the solder tab off on one side, straighten it out and pop the second. Got lazy and should of re soldered it. Another one on order, next week..
Then see that the mystery seeds are Autoflower (in a scrog) , one is a male, and there goes 1/3 of the tent, but I don't need the second light as badly now.
View attachment 727162 View attachment 727164 View attachment 727163

oh no, that sucks that you popped the solder tabs off... with my build, I went with the Vero29SE which have the quick connect insert type connections, no soldering needed.

Is that last picture of your girls with the COBs on?

 

[1816 House]

Yea, It crossed my mind ( Vero29SE )when I popped it, and cussed ,cussed , looked at my plants ,cussed some more.
There isn't much meat holding the solder pad down, but my fault completely.

Those are the lonely girls with the Roleandro COB on them, the new one wont get fired up till the replacement comes. You can see the white hairs popping out, autoflower for sure.

I may be able to salvage the COB, but not for this light.

 

[1816 House]

Finally, a month too late but running.
Daylight 3000k vs Burple
3x 36v Vero29 @1.4Amp=151 watt vs 2x (?) Roleandro= 138 watt

The Vero29 on , Roleandro on, Both on.
The H4ppySix Mini smokes the GalaxyHydro clone just in tent bling alone...it's twice as bright in there.
I'll get some wide 43.deg Ledil reflectors , the mount rings will cover the solder points on the COBs

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

Finally, a month too late but running.
Daylight 3000k vs Burple
3x 36v Vero29 @1.4Amp=151 watt vs 2x (?) Roleandro= 138 watt
View attachment 728593
The Vero29 on , Roleandro on, Both on.
The H4ppySix Mini smokes the GalaxyHydro clone just in tent bling alone...it's twice as bright in there.
I'll get some wide 43.deg Ledil reflectors , the mount rings will cover the solder points on the COBs
View attachment 728594 View attachment 728595 View attachment 728596

very nice, congrats

 

[1816 House]

LOL, the plants were a complete disaster though,, first indoor grow. Lucky if I get 3 oz.
I'm getting seeds, and starting again.
These are nice fall ornamentals for the porch.

Mystery seeds in coco were nitrogen overloaded, inept LST, PH acid burned, over watered, fungus gnats= 23 total, light deprived with just that Burple, then turned out to be autoflowers who don't like Scroggin'.
Now I know what not to do, I'm a double slow learner when it comes to painting and growing.:)

 

[h4ppyf4rmer]

LOL, the plants were a complete disaster though,, first indoor grow. Lucky if I get 3 oz.
I'm getting seeds, and starting again.
These are nice fall ornamentals for the porch.

Mystery seeds in coco were nitrogen overloaded, inept LST, PH acid burned, over watered, fungus gnats= 23 total, light deprived with just that Burple, then turned out to be autoflowers who don't like Scroggin'.
Now I know what not to do, I'm a double slow learner when it comes to painting and growing.:)

well, that's what the first grow is all about, learning experience. My first was I started out with six plants, lost two, finished four plants and I ended up with a total of 8 ounces of bud and a lot of popcorn and trim for butter... I called it a complete success where others wouldn't. Ended up letting most of it go, got rave reviews about the quality and paid for my initial setup... SUCCESS!!!