Eriophyid mites-the hemp russet mite

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hunterfisher

hunterfisher

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also for informational purposes
seems to work great for the russets / brad mites
but 2 spotted mite eggs still hatched out and will need the standard treatment
I bring in test leaves to scope every day and note on a calendar the affects
been 3 years now and still waiting for the day things go smooth start to finish lol
 
hunterfisher

hunterfisher

29
13
they still reproduced in low temp
tried that at 50 degrees for a few weeks
they reproduce slow but then your girls produce slow also
honestly I think my girls stunted more then the bugs
in turn its the same affects in slow motion
no difference it just took weeks longer to get the same ending
 
GrowGod

GrowGod

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also for informational purposes
seems to work great for the russets / brad mites
but 2 spotted mite eggs still hatched out and will need the standard treatment
I bring in test leaves to scope every day and note on a calendar the affects
been 3 years now and still waiting for the day things go smooth start to finish lol
Been 15 years for me and I'm still trying for a smooth start to finish:eek:
 
Frostynugman

Frostynugman

1,192
263
I use a 2 gallon bucket to mix so I could fill the sprayer 2 times
but this is what I used on 2 gallons
4 tablespoons dish soap
1/2 cup neem
1/2 cup sm-90
hot hot water
sprayed 1 time with 1 gallon hot
2nd gallon cooled down in about 45 min then sprayed a 2nd time
just finished a repeat today just for gp
the girls didn't mind a bit
in fact looked better and perky once dry
I also crushed a few aspirin in the 30 gallon water tank (prevents them from taking on damage)
and sm-90 has some things in it they like anyway
Very cool would it be alot to ask for before and after pics?
 
hunterfisher

hunterfisher

29
13
I think I can find some
I will post them tomorrow
wont be the best representation but enough to see the difference
didn't take pics with that in mind
 
matamus

matamus

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Unfortunately I some times find myself breeding more bugs than cultivating cannabis. I call it the challenge of "large scale" or "commercial" growing. But when I get a handle on things it makes me feel good. My first real challenge in this field was root aphids, and with the help and ingenuity of a fellow grower in Colorado, I was able to overcome them with Met 52 and this product is now being discovered, sought out, and used by many farmers here in this community. To all of you I say please share your experience with this product and I hope its as good as mine. Now I battle russet mites on a large scale. Met 52 led me to another "fungal" type product called hirsutella thompsonii Fisher. This has been used against eriophyid mites in coconut industry countries and I stumbled across this article and thought I'd share it...



Sci Tech


Strategies to manage eriophyid mite

By Our Agriculture Correspondent


The coconuts affected by eriophyid mite show warts and longitudinal fissures on the skin.— Pic: S.Thanthoni
ERIOPHYID MITE (Aceria guerreronis) a serious pest of coconut, has ravaged the crop in the last few years. Scientists have come out with eco-friendly strategies to effectively manage this scourge.

The project directorate of biological control of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) at Bangalore has identified an effective fungus to counter the mite menace. The directorate, with funding from the Coconut Development Board, has isolated the mite-infecting fungus, Hirsutella thompsonii and found that it could be used as bio-control agent to combat the mites. Scientists at the Kerala Agricultural University have hit upon a neem seed oil-garlic-soap emulsion to keep the mites at bay. About 200 ml of neem seed oil and a 500 ml water extract containing 200 g of garlic paste are mixed well and diluted with water to make up a 10-litre spray fluid. To this ordinary soap flakes (50 g) dissolved in 300 ml of lukewarm water should be added.

This botanical insecticide forms the neem seed oil-garlic-soap emulsion 2 per cent. About 1.5 litres of this emulsion should be sprayed on the coconut bunches of each palm.

The spray should focus on the middle portion of the bunches where the mites tend to concentrate. The spraying should be taken up only in the afternoons so that the pollinating bees are not affected. Care should also be taken to avoid spraying the unfertilized inflorescence.

A number of commercial neem formulations have been prescribed to control the eriophyid mites. However, many of them cannot be fed through the roots or injected into the trunks. Moreover, only those formulations with an azadirachtin content of 300 to 1500 ppm can at best act as an insect repellent or an anti-feedant when sprayed.

In this context, a neem formulation `Econeem Plus' from a Bangalore-based firm comes in handy for growers managing the mites. It is also, an eco-friendly insecticide containing 10,000 ppm azadirachtin, and it is effective in controlling the mites and preventing the insect-resistance and accumulation of residues in the nuts, according to the company.

This product has been tried, evaluated and recommended by scientists of University of Agricultural Sciences (UAS), Bangalore, for control of eriophyid mites on coconut. It has multiple modes of action. When root-fed or stem injected it gets translocated and acts as a stomach poison on sucking pests like mites. It also acts as an insect growth regulator (IGR) affecting the moulting process in mites, which prevents them entering the next phase of its life cycle, according to the scientists.

The botanical insecticide has been effectively used as stem injection at 10 ml per tree. However, for best results it should be root- fed at 10 ml mixed with equal quantity of water per tree.

It should be used twice before the onset of monsoon (April-May) at an interval of 25 days, and twice after the monsoon (in October-November) at the same interval, according to the scientists.

-So a lot of you already know about azadirachtin. In the U.S. it comes in the form of Azatrol:


Biological Insecticide, Repellent, Antifeedant and Insect Growth Regulator

Botanical Product for Control of Insects on Indoor and Outdoor Vegetables, Ornamental Flowers, Trees, Shrubs, and Plants.

Azatrol is a broad spectrum botanical product for control of insects and mites on indoor and outdoor ornamental plants, shrubs, flowers, garden vegetables, fruit and nut trees. Azatrol offers an array of effects by acting as a repellent, anti-feedant, insect growth regulator and ovipositioning deterrent. As a molting inhibitor, it prevents insect larvae from developing into adults. Insects will feed less or not at all on treated foliage, ultimately starving to death, they will also fail to mature and reproduce. This complexity also makes it impossible for an insect's resistance to develop - Low odor and OMRI listed.

Azatrol is OMRI listed and poses no harm to the environment or us. It contains the main ingredient Azadirachtin A and B. It also contains over 300 different Liminoids which also have insecticidal properties. It all comes from the Neem kernel. They use a cold water extraction process to isolate the Azadirachtin. The left over Neem fats and oils are sold off to other companies to make other products. Azatrol contains no neem oil, fats, or bitters. It won't affect taste, color, or aroma and can be used to the day of harvest. Unlike neem oil it completely dissolves in water.

Once they have extracted the Azadirachtin it is collected in a powder form that is imported to the US and turned into a concentrated liquid. It has a two year shelf life in the concentrated form. It is almost impossible for an insect to form a resistance to the product. It is not an instant knock down killer. The bugs have to eat it for it to work. It will not harm beneficial insects since they don't eat plant tissue. It can be used as a foliar spray as well as in the res. Plants will take it up into their tissue and it will last there for a few weeks in most cases. The slower a plant grows the longer it stays in the tissue.

Usage recommendations

Use it on plants used for cuttings consistently (water it in and spray at least once every two weeks. If pest pressure is high use it more often)

The rate for the res is 1 ounce per 10 Gallons of water. Fill the res and add nutrients. Take a clean bucket and mix all the Azatrol you need for the res to a gallon or two of water. Mix well and add that solution to the res. pH and you are good to grow. Note Azatrol may add 100 to 200 ppm to the total. Only add it to a res when you change out the tank. Never top off with it. For soil or run to waste water with Azatrol once per week. Begin treating plants as soon as they are well rooted. It can be used up until flush.

As a foliar at 7 to 10 ml per QT for light pest pressure. Spray every 7-14 days pH at 6.0 with a wetting agent.

For heavy pest pressure 15 ml per QT and spray every 3 to 4 days pH at 6.0 with a wetting agent. You can mix it stronger with caution. Test a plant before you treat the whole crop on higher usage rates. Spray everything you mix within 24 hours. It is organic and will begin to become less potent once mixed (if you try to store it mixed).

Not recommend spraying with anything past the 4th week of a 12/12 cycle due to the possibility of mold. Other than that it would be fine.

How it works

Azatrol keeps an insect from generating a growth hormone in its brain. This affects its ability to grow, to molt, or to create cocoon, even if an insect reaches that point in its life. It is an anti-feedant. You can tell this is happening if you look at a spider mite abdomen. It will begin to turn dark brown or black if you look at it under a 30X microscope. Any easy way to view mites is with scotch tape. Catch them on scotch tape and they can't run away. It will be easy to tell when the Azatrol starts to work. Shortly after you'll notice that the bugs aren't moving around anymore. You may still see them on plants, but they will be paralyzed. Then they simply fall off the plants.

Azatrol disrupts insects ability to lay eggs.

It works on everything from fungus gnats, whiteflies, caterpillars, spider mites, aphids, thrips, and the list goes on and on.

It takes 3 to 4 weeks to rid you garden of pests. After that a normal maintenance regimen will be all that is required.

-So anyway, russet mites are my new root aphid. I would like like to beat them and do it in a safe way. I know Azatrol is well known and widely used. We'll see how OMRI listed Azatrol does against these little bastards in my garden. If anyone has any input on hemp russet mites and Azatrol, I'd love to know if it worked for you. I assume its ok to water it in to flowering plants based on this product description, but its always helpful learning from other's experiences. Cheers.
Thanks for the great info Altimood after reading some great stuff from India I found the original product they used Eco Neem Plus () says it is 1% Azadirachtin of course its not available in the US. So has anyone ever heard of Nutri+ and their highly concentrated Azadirachtin spray (), has anyone used this product? As of right now I have noticed I have won the battle as some may say! I still spot one or two here and there but they don't move and are very nasty yellow looking. Has anyone has success in using a lime sulphur spray I saw maybe was it Chocolate in his post said the Sierra Foothills had them bad outside and used that to whoop their asses. Does anyone know how to make your own homemade Lime Sulphur Spray. Finally onto my final few thoughts about these nasty little peckers. Sounds like Met52 has worked well outdoors anyone had experinence in using this product inside and has anyone tried their new liquid formula,(), also where do ya'll source your met 52 from? next talking point is Conserve SC saw a post that skunk master flex was using it with stellar results, pretty spendy stuff but if it works and is as not so toxic as they say might have to give it a go, just wanna hear some thoughts! Has anyone ever used Spice of Life's spray he concocted, this is his recipe quoted from another site "Now if you want an effective organic solution to kill them try 1 tsp of Dr Bronners organic liquid soap in one gallon of clean warm water and get the lavender oil one if you can find it. Then add 25 drops of lavender essential oil, 10 drops of eucalyptus oil, and 10 drops of tea tree oil or peppermint works too and then shake well with the cap on and add in 1 heaping tsp of pure neem seed oil and shake the mixture very well. Spray down the plants liberally on the top and undersides of leafs in low light and make sure they are not in bright intense light while this dries or it can burn them. You can also spray the surface of the soil and the containers as well, this stuff smells great and is totally non-toxic." I have been using this on my clones since its not to heavy for a slight preventative until I feel they can take Azamax.
 
420 lyfePpP

420 lyfePpP

2,277
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Man I am on a huge budget and got a mite problem . To the point of lost my room. I'm a Solo grower and I need my meds soooooooooo bad . Have nothing and goin CRAZY LOL JUST PLAYING AROUND
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

87
18
Just spoke with the Rep about this stuff, he personally uses it... Recommended 5 days straight for Broads/Russets, then follow up every 3 days. This product already has a wetting agent in it so apply it as a stand alone.
Man I am on a huge budget and got a mite problem . To the point of lost my room. I'm a Solo grower and I need my meds soooooooooo bad . Have nothing and goin CRAZY LOL JUST PLAYING AROUND
I think I still have them ahhhh
 
420 lyfePpP

420 lyfePpP

2,277
263
I think I still have them ahhhh
Ah chit
20160903 122908

This is supposed to be good for treatment
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

87
18
No. .both. but outdoor looks like only on one little one that is kinda down on the ground and was never doing good anyway. .I was on here months back probably spring when I finally found what was up..had both russet and broad indoor scoped n I.D..thought I had cleaned and bleached good enough but I guess not..if I can get my beans to make it I'm gonna overload on predators. ..have you used the heat??
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
No, I haven't had this problem (yet!). IIRC, kolah has and he and a couple others whose names I can't recall have with good success, but this was in a greenhouse or indoors.

@We Solidarity ?? Was it you?
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

87
18
I think I could get the temp up to 120 ..put one in my digital oven @ 160..figured that would keep me up to 120 a couple hours but opened the door 10 min later and it was melting it. Lol..I did water it before but don't go 160!!!
 
420 lyfePpP

420 lyfePpP

2,277
263
I see this is a old tread but figured this would help someone fighting these things
I have had luck using diatomaceous earth .
fill a baby powder container and coat the whole plant . pot and all
only in veg . wait 3 days then mix sm-90 with neem and dishsoap
most importantly , use really hot water mix in the pump sprayer
rinses of the d/m and treat those cut up suckers all in one
predatory bugs wont eat them before you loose everything
and azamax ,avid , neem alone , bombs etc. don't do anything to them at all
this method scratches them up , gums them up , sm-90 has sulfur , the hot water finishes them . they are heat sensitive . this is the only thing that worked for me after several crops were destroyed .
I just got the DE and agrogreen with peppermint organic and the two are supposed to be good together for mites and stuff.
 
CaliRay

CaliRay

190
28
I think I could get the temp up to 120 ..put one in my digital oven @ 160..figured that would keep me up to 120 a couple hours but opened the door 10 min later and it was melting it. Lol..I did water it before but don't go 160!!!
Get some met52 or pfr 97. Must make sure to spray the undersides of the plants. Also, use as a drench to kill anything in the soil. Apply every other day for a total of 4 application with the met52 or pfr97. Then 2 more applications with conserve sc and you're good.
 
CaliRay

CaliRay

190
28
I think I could get the temp up to 120 ..put one in my digital oven @ 160..figured that would keep me up to 120 a couple hours but opened the door 10 min later and it was melting it. Lol..I did water it before but don't go 160!!!
This is what happened after I hit them with the met52 the first time. Dead everything.
 
Screenshot 2016 09 12 22 30 07
CaliRay

CaliRay

190
28
I think I could get the temp up to 120 ..put one in my digital oven @ 160..figured that would keep me up to 120 a couple hours but opened the door 10 min later and it was melting it. Lol..I did water it before but don't go 160!!!
I scope every day and I still use the met52 as a preventive and this is what the undersides of my leafs look like.
 
20160720 131533
Black Lab

Black Lab

286
93
I just had broad or russet mites on a couple of outdoor plants. I used Nuk em three times the first day, once more the third and fifth days. The plants were early flower and the pistils turned brown. Then I applied predator mites I got on Amazon.
It's been two weeks. So far so good. The buds are throwing new pistils. and damage from mites reversed.
 
ballbeanking

ballbeanking

87
18
I scope every day and I still use the met52 as a preventive and this is what the undersides of my leafs look like.
What magnification and scope do you use?? I used avid 1ml. Dunk...everything turned around..didn't want to use that but I was low on funds and that's the best thing I had.. I used a sulphur spray on 1 and it got a little curly..I think I sprayed it again to soon...thanks to everyone posting..I would not have figured it.
 

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