First Ever Grow, No Til, Documenting Every Learning Step

[FutureGrower]

the plants wont worry about a few dents on a ballast, only that the light is true. ;-) may be the box will run cooler with no paint LOL :)
You should see the state of my van :)

Good luck buddy and I hope the beans turn up and germinate in to winners

Hahaha free ventilation system built in!

Edit: I’m sure I’ll figure it out sooner or later even if the first or second cycle doesn’t go as planned, especially with guys like you and organikz!

 

[Ecompost]

Hahaha free ventilation system built in!

Edit: I’m sure I’ll figure it out sooner or later even if the first or second cycle doesn’t go as planned, especially with guys like you and organikz!

:-) my advice is always to limit the things you use, and if you make changes, make one change at a time. this way you can see the impacts or not. if you just go about adding everything, its neigh on impossible to now what might have happened.
Know the first point of all investigation should be the environmental parameters. more often a simple tweak here, say adding some humidity, or removing some, adding some heat, removing some, re setting the light at a more reliable height from the canopy, making sure there is sufficient water moisture in the soil profile, adding some mulch or a living cover companion to retain moisture, lower UV impacts on top soil and so on.
I find borage, phacelia etc to be most excellent companions of cannabis :-)
I use sunflowers, clovers, rye, fescue and so on between grows, these seem to share some common biology that suits developing cannabis in the case of sunflowers and the rye and fescue is highly mycorrhizal helping to bridge the N fixed by the clover in to the soil system,, so that it can be mined by CO2 respiring roots and microbes by combining the CO2 with water which creates a mild acid which of course our cannabis prefers.
Mycorrhizal soils are known to hold water with a higher efficiency, so helping avoid drought and so on. The Mycos release organic acids, humic and fulvic compounds whose complex structures and capacity for electron donor/ transfer are able to capture passing capillary water molecules, rolling them up for future use, helping prevent water loss. it is thought that these myco dominant soils, are able to hold up to 40 times more water, than non/ low count myco media. You find this low count media anywhere a plough or tilling machine has been :-)

Once you know you have the right temps day and night, the correct humidity to go with the temps, growing plants is really easy. they want to grow, its their mission and its deeply embedded in the DNA and that of the DNA of a wide range of supporting actors. They posses a remarkable set of tools, they can mix and match these to assimilate growth or defense promoting compounds without our help.
So long as we have good roots, good soil and an understanding of the critical role of water balance, we really ought not to need more.
Do add inoculates to boost the specialist microbes you will need, you should only need to do this once. It should not cost lots of money, but do buy quality. There are many good ones, but lots of others which are white labeled and probably not great to begin with, try to go for a standardized or certified product, or one you know from friends that works. use worm poo or living worms, better still, the MBP will help maintain fungal mass. Fungus are the great conductors of the soil symphony IMO, they will recruit the necessary bacteria, and help to keep the risk vectors at a minimum for you :-)
Anyway, like it or not, all plants and I suppose all people too are part fungus :-)

ttps://www.sciencenews.org/article/theyre-all-part-fungus

 

[Ecompost]

Thank you! I’ve done very minimum amounts of checking into the farming community but it does make sense, especially with the limited no til cannabis that I’m able to find online.

I’ll look into co2 burst rates but I really want to start simple and work my way into growing and perfecting things otherwise my head 100% will be spinning lol

As for all of the people you told me to check out I’m definitely going to be doing that after work tomorrow!

Also thank you for taking the time to post this stuff I’m sure it took you a little while to write, and it’s apprciated!

understanding how CO2+ H2O is pivotal to the consistent mineralization of your NPK, Ca, Mg, Mn Zn B Mo Fe Cu etc etc is critical mate in my opinion. Do this from day one, make it part of your management for soil fertility, get used to it and I swear you will be miles in front of many from day dot.
no one is asking you to do anything more complicated than buy a test on line from say Amazon or woodsend labs etc, use the glass beaker to collect some of your media, put a CO2 sticker supplied under the lid, replace lid as per instructions and wait. Check the color of the sticker after the allotted time, compare this to the chart. Adjust to maintain a consistent CO2 saturation through inputs of Organic Matter and Biology and constant testing and data collection.
Super soil is only super while we have sufficient respiration of CO2 :-) otherwise its expensive shit to stand a plant in :-)

 

[brazel]

If you decide to run clover go light. Just a pinch. Fungus gnat city. The mulch itself is a nitrogen fixer in the fact that as nitrogen fixing bacteria feed on cellulose they fix N from the air.

Bro this is wrong, gnats are more attracted to mulch... they go after decay and moisture.

 

[brazel]

Anything is good. I will start from most commonly used and move down.

Barley straw
Wheat straw
Cocoa bean shells
Pine bark fines or nuggets
Leaf litter

I'd say use white cover, fenugreek, any clover , yarrow, nettle.. etc

 

[FutureGrower]

This is a video everything learning about no til should watch!

 

[FutureGrower]

Bro this is wrong, gnats are more attracted to mulch... they go after decay and moisture.

Ahhh, alright thanks man, I’ll spend some time looking more in depth

 

[brazel]

Yeah I’m hoping the 20g works too, I’m a little worried with auto flowers I may need to abort the tent and put it in my room but honestly I don’t really even care as long as all grows lol

Also awesome tips for the seedlings!

Any size will work but if you want the most from it go with 45 gallon at the smallest

 

[brazel]

Why are you using dolomite? Where's your basalt!? That video is shit. As are most of these comments.

45 gallon or bigger, you're basically making your compost and worm castings in your soil, add uncharged bio char, basalt, ditch dolomite

 

[FutureGrower]

understanding how CO2+ H2O is pivotal to the consistent mineralization of your NPK, Ca, Mg, Mn Zn B Mo Fe Cu etc etc is critical mate in my opinion. Do this from day one, make it part of your management for soil fertility, get used to it and I swear you will be miles in front of many from day dot.
no one is asking you to do anything more complicated than buy a test on line from say Amazon or woodsend labs etc, use the glass beaker to collect some of your media, put a CO2 sticker supplied under the lid, replace lid as per instructions and wait. Check the color of the sticker after the allotted time, compare this to the chart. Adjust to maintain a consistent CO2 saturation through inputs of Organic Matter and Biology and constant testing and data collection.
Super soil is only super while we have sufficient respiration of CO2 :) otherwise its expensive shit to stand a plant in :)

I one you an apology man, I didn’t watch the video when I originally replied. It’s explains a massive amount, and no worries I will be buying a test kit :)

 

[brazel]

There's info in that vid but shit get to the point

 

[brazel]

I never did any co2, color sticker test thing...i put my herb up to anyone who's done this any day

 

[FutureGrower]

:) my advice is always to limit the things you use, and if you make changes, make one change at a time. this way you can see the impacts or not. if you just go about adding everything, its neigh on impossible to now what might have happened.
Know the first point of all investigation should be the environmental parameters. more often a simple tweak here, say adding some humidity, or removing some, adding some heat, removing some, re setting the light at a more reliable height from the canopy, making sure there is sufficient water moisture in the soil profile, adding some mulch or a living cover companion to retain moisture, lower UV impacts on top soil and so on.
I find borage, phacelia etc to be most excellent companions of cannabis :)
I use sunflowers, clovers, rye, fescue and so on between grows, these seem to share some common biology that suits developing cannabis in the case of sunflowers and the rye and fescue is highly mycorrhizal helping to bridge the N fixed by the clover in to the soil system,, so that it can be mined by CO2 respiring roots and microbes by combining the CO2 with water which creates a mild acid which of course our cannabis prefers.
Mycorrhizal soils are known to hold water with a higher efficiency, so helping avoid drought and so on. The Mycos release organic acids, humic and fulvic compounds whose complex structures and capacity for electron donor/ transfer are able to capture passing capillary water molecules, rolling them up for future use, helping prevent water loss. it is thought that these myco dominant soils, are able to hold up to 40 times more water, than non/ low count myco media. You find this low count media anywhere a plough or tilling machine has been :)

Once you know you have the right temps day and night, the correct humidity to go with the temps, growing plants is really easy. they want to grow, its their mission and its deeply embedded in the DNA and that of the DNA of a wide range of supporting actors. They posses a remarkable set of tools, they can mix and match these to assimilate growth or defense promoting compounds without our help.
So long as we have good roots, good soil and an understanding of the critical role of water balance, we really ought not to need more.
Do add inoculates to boost the specialist microbes you will need, you should only need to do this once. It should not cost lots of money, but do buy quality. There are many good ones, but lots of others which are white labeled and probably not great to begin with, try to go for a standardized or certified product, or one you know from friends that works. use worm poo or living worms, better still, the MBP will help maintain fungal mass. Fungus are the great conductors of the soil symphony IMO, they will recruit the necessary bacteria, and help to keep the risk vectors at a minimum for you :)
Anyway, like it or not, all plants and I suppose all people too are part fungus :)

ttps://www.sciencenews.org/article/theyre-all-part-fungus

:fire::fire::fire:

This should be a begginers 101 read for cannabis seriously!

 

[brazel]

@Ecompost fuck bro, you ramble so much! And so much of it is bullshit copy paste! Like seriously! I like you and wouldntsay shit... butfuck man!

 

[FutureGrower]

Any size will work but if you want the most from it go with 45 gallon at the smallest

Maybe in the future I’ll up it to 45g and use the 20 for veg

 

[FutureGrower]

I never did any co2, color sticker test thing...i put my herb up to anyone who's done this any day

I took it kinda as building blocks to making sure everything is going smooth.

 

[FutureGrower]

@Ecompost fuck bro, you ramble so much! And so much of it is bullshit copy paste! Like seriously! I like you and wouldntsay shit... butfuck man!

Honestly everything he’s posted has helped me. Also I guess it depends on what rambling is to you, it’s probably stuff you’ve heard or read hundreds of times, for me most of it’s a first time and the stuff that isn’t just helps me retain what I already read better...

 

[FutureGrower]

There's info in that vid but shit get to the point

If you can find something quicker paced please share man... I’m super ADD and had to watch the video in segments and go back, but the info was great

 

[FutureGrower]

Why are you using dolomite? Where's your basalt!? That video is shit. As are most of these comments.

45 gallon or bigger, you're basically making your compost and worm castings in your soil, add uncharged bio char, basalt, ditch dolomite

Dolomite to my understanding is a super healthy mineral that also regulates pH to the plants ideal levels

I was told bio char and basalt isn’t needed

I’m not saying you’re wrong or anyone is for the record

Can you please let me know why bio char and basalt are needed and Dolomites bad?

 

[Organikz]

@brazel
El rancho had mentioned fungus gnats in his clover so he ripped it up. I did notice higher concentration near patches of cover crop.

I also blow fans across the mulch. Cover gives the gnats somewhere to hide.

In reality we all battle fungus gnats until the system gains control. My system has cultivated swarms of rove beetles.