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GROW ROOM ELECTRICAL

Discussion in 'Growroom Design & Setup' started by hiboy, Mar 20, 2012.

  1. Post any questions for electrical advice here.
    hb
     
    JWM2, Golden Trich, Fattyog and 10 others like this.
  2. IS it safe to hookup a dual 15 amp timer to a 1000w and the other end a 600w and a couple of fans?
    I know it is close to the max amps but not sure exactly how close. I currenly have it set up that way using 2 600's, but I aquired a 1000w ballast and wanted to see how it worked. Dont 6oow use about 5 amps and 1000W about 8.5?
    Thanks
     
  3. tattoojim

    tattoojim Unknown farmer Supporter

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    will a digi ballast that has been on 120 for 6 months, then put on 240. fry in one night?
     
    HorseFeather likes this.
  4. hiboy,put in some a/c disconnect boxes for mini splits and there are 2 types of fuses that look like they will fit,both look like big buss fuses except one has a ridge that sticks up on one end,does it matter which type i use?
     
  5. First part of your question is kinda understood.
    120v takes twice the amps as 240v.
    a 1000 watt lamp takes 9 amps at 120v and 4.5 at 240v
    a 15 amp circuit at 120v can run 1800 watts maxed out, 1500 ideally
    a 15 amp circuit at 240v can run 2400 watts maxed out, 2000 ideally
    hope this info helps u, kinda threw out a few diff. situations
    hb
     
  6. Most likey no, unless plugged in wrong or suck
    my ol school ballast have a diff plug in for either voltage so u dont screw up
    hb
     
    SupaM likes this.
  7. No bro not at all, just a manufacturing style. u should be good to go as long as u have the correct fuses for ur app,
    meaning amps
    hb
     
  8. Thanks,
    What I was trying to say was, if I have (1) digital dual 15 amp timer with one side plugged into a 1000W and the other side plugged into a surgeprotector with a 600w and 2 small fans plugged into that, would that be ok?
    Thanks again for your help and time.
     
  9. If your timer is one of those cheapo no offense.... timers, what matters is two things
    the breaker that it is on and then also the load
    Your lighting total draw is 1600 watts which is 13.3 amps without ballast draw whis is an amp or so and then another couple amps for your fan. Your timer is being pushed hard meaning its maxed or even over. would be better to have two timers, one for one light and the other for the smaller light and fan. But if your breaker controlling the timers is only a 15 amp it will most likely trip when all are on. If your breaker is a 20 amp u will be ok
    hb
     
    RELOADER212 likes this.
  10. tattoojim

    tattoojim Unknown farmer Supporter

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    hiboy.. i made a thread yesterday in advanced forum cause i couldnt find your thread. could you peep out my thread and tell me if that is right or wrong. all the numbers are there, and thanks for your help bro
     
    GrowingGreen likes this.
  11. Thanks brother!
     
  12. Hey i put a response in there for u,,, my ol thread with all that great info is M.I.A. so o well start a new one if it hasnt offended anyone.
    Let me know if u need more info
    hb
     
  13. New
    Hey Hiboy,​

    I have a 5 ton portable quik kool AC.​

    I want to set it so it comes on when the lights come on, using a photocell. Right now I hooked it to a 240v outdoor pool timer, but it just comes with 1 on/off time, and I am running a new veg cycle that has 2 on/off times. Plus, I have to adjust the timer so it kicks on before the lights come on and goes off after the lights go off because I am running 9k. Im afraid if the lighs are on without ac, my plants will die in a fairly short amount of time.​

    Is this possible or are the amps too high for that type of relay (I think it pull like 45 amp on start up)?​
    This was from a p.m. thought it would be good info for others
    hb
    You can get a contactor or relay that will operate on the photocell on ur controller,
    You will run a cord that plugs into your controller, run it to a metal enclosure where ur contactor is. So your breaker wires that controls your a/c will go straight to the box, and then the a/c cord will also go to the box. Load and line will be in that box, line being wires coming in from breaker, load going to a/c. The contactor will have 2 additional screw terminals that will be connected to the cord that comes from your photo cell . A 50 amp 2 pole contactor with a 120v coil for photocell operation
    I have a thread started again so look for me in there, its called grow room electrical
    hb
    hiboy, 10 minutes agoReport
     
  14. Put a response in there for u to check out, 6/3 is used when a neutral is required along with 240v, but your controller shouldnt need it if you checked it and saw the terminal not connecting to anything
    hb
     
  15. 10-1000watt magnetic ballast all on 240 volts, 2-460 cfm duct fans 110v, 3 oscillating wall mount fans 110v. (a/c is on separate sub panel so its out of the equation) what awg wire do i need to use for this sub panel?
     
  16. Fine line ur at.
    #4 is code for what u want, but if moola is a problem u can put a 60 amp breaker on #6 wire.
    Ideal would be #4 x 2 = hot hot, derate the neutral to #6 since ur all at 240v basically, and the ground at #6 also. It could go to #10 if ur really hurting.
    #4 is rated for a 90 amp breaker. You would have room to expand also.
    hb
     
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  17. What's good hiboy? Question for ya, as you see like a go to guy. My issue is that I have a '60s home, there aren't many outlets so I am forced to run extension cords to my area from two different sockets. Sounds like it would work, except when I turn my dimmer to 100% on my 600w Quantum ballast it pops the powerstrip to off. My question is to alleviate the issue is there a way to just put together your own "power board" that is portable for when I move? Like a fuse box that I can plug into a dryer socket or some shit? I'm running 120, but have the ballast cable for 240. I understand that using 240 cuts the amps in half from 120, so should I just use that ballast on 240? Not sure how to do that since I never used 240. Do you just sway the receptacle, 120, to a 240 socket and go from there? I run two tents and want to be able to depend on my electric not throwing a gfci. I put a gfci plug outlet thing in the socket that the extension cord comes from as a last resort. I just want an affordable portable, since I don't own the property, system that is plug and play when I relocate. Like plug it in to a decent sized outlet and run my two tents. Maybe even using a flip flop? I never invested too much time into the electrical aspects of growing till I moved here and noticed the issues. I can't do permanent work to the house either. Any ideas bro? Thanks for any time and help!

    Cheers,
    Crom
     
    crom likes this.
  18. Extension cords arent great to use but ya gota do what u gota do to work. If you do use them make sure the guage wire is 14 minimum, 12 is alot safer, bigger the wire , less heat.
    A portable system could be built for u, with a male dryer cord end for the supply which would plug into your outlet. Only thing is that dryers are nomrally max 30 amp 2 wire which means no neutral , but u really dont need a neutral for your timers and ballasts.
    If you want more info on the build and might do it then let me know i can write somethin up in more detail.
    You mentioned that your surge strip is popping when ur ballast is 100% on, You could purchase a heavier dutier strip that would allow the watts to go thru it and not pop off. Its tripping for portection, too much power is going thru it. GFCI outlets arent needed in your grow tents, GFCI outlets are usually installed outdoors or by water
    hb
     
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  19. crom

    crom Cannobi Genetics Supporter

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    This is the portable GFCI I mentioned that I connect my extension cord to the wall with. Figured it was a last resort pop before it hits the house. My concern is really to not need to mess with a new homes electrical much, when moved into. So I'll use a gas dryer, and save the outlet for a tent and maybe a different outlet or something easily converted to a heavy duty set up or something. I'm not trying to run 10 lights or anything, and I could give you a list of stuff getting powered to work the amps and whatever. http://t0.invalid.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSQZcm1BMGUi--qeqzlucofQ5CNUrcsuIcIj7-fK6k2mXHHiG1nWhat's a good start point, the list of equipment? Shall I add up something instead and give you the info needed? Good thing is one tent runs t5s and 1 400wMH. The bloom room has the 600w. I don't run A/C. I use 6" extractors for both, on thermostats. Each has a full size wall mount osc fan, along with smaller clip on fans here and there. Only one air pump and one pump. It's fairly efficient actually! Now that I reflect on the amount of electronics used.

    So the power strip is rated lower then say a "heavy duty" one? I am not very educated as to what the limits and codes and stuff are for different homes and their respective sockets. I also don't want to have to have a grip of extension cords running from room to room. As long as they are, each tent, on a different breaker I should be good? Like "room A" outlet powers one tent, and "room B" supplies the outlet for the other? Use the dryer outlet for the bloom room, or whichever uses the most amps? Can you shoot me a link that has example pictures of what you can help me design? What's a ball park estimate for cost? Just want to see if I can even afford to take on this project. I wanted to ask before I spent the money on heavy duty extension cords. Thanks for the help HB!

    Cheers,
    Crom