Just A Little Help From A Friend :)

[BudCreator]

Hi Guys,
For a few months I ve been studying how to create a 12 plants RDWC system and I saved a room (13x10x8) for it.
I have a 22000 BTU AC runing 24/7, 6 x 600W, 2 humidifiers and 1 dehumidifier.
The system is a 13 15gl and one of them is the control. The whole steup is about 160gl and I have a 1320g/h pump, 1hp chiller and 2 air pumps 15g/h.
So I guess Im on the good side with the equipments and hopefully none of them will break because they are all new :)
Now the stats that I ve been getting out of it almost every day:
Filtered water comes around 7.2 and 125ppm
Water
PH 6, 240 ppm and 69º

Room:
Day - 79º and around 50%
Night - 71º and around 70%

SO everything was supose to be ok.

But guess what: They are not!!!

Im not an expert in plants and before setting this up, I only had grow a few plants. And all of them with soil.

The problems started on the second week, when the roots got mixed togheter when they where still at the bubbler and after separating them really carefully they where placed at the main system. But they never got better, and now im about to lose the whole crop.

Its ok. I already have others seeds waiting to be started, but I think there maybe something im missing here. I would really enjoy not have to lose a second round for a problem I cant find.

And I came for help. Any tips will be welcome. I dont know shit compared to you guys :D

Please bear in mind that I live in a country that doesnt have almost any hydro shops, so I had to get every single part of this setup from diferent places and it took me almost 2 months to build. Hope you enjoy because im very proud of it!!!

Cheers

 

[3N1GM4]

With a pH level above 6.5, iron, calcium and phosphorus ions are bound together. These substances are still present in the feeding solution, but aren’t disposable. The consequences of such a defect is very radical and decreases the development, growth and eventually the yield of a marijuana plant.

Feeding water with a pH of 6.5 or higher must therefore be reduced by adding diluted nitric acid in the growth period, and diluted phosphoric acid in the flowering period. These resources are for sale in the grow shop or garden center as pH- growth (nitric acid), and pH- flowering, (phosphoric acid). Be careful with this stuff because a few drops of pH- changes the pH of 10 liters of water easily by 2 points.

Measure the feeding water again after adding pH- or pH+ to make sure the pH is good. Keep in mind that EC and pH have a lot to do with each other. An increase of EC causes (due to acidity) a pH reduction. When changing the EC also the acidity level needs to be adjusted.

Ec value
The acronym stands for Electric Conductivity. Marijuana plants that go through a rapid growth and flower period need to have plenty of nutrients. To measure the nutritional value (the actual nutrient salts), you’ll need to use an EC meter.

Unambiguous values for the number of nutrient salts in a solution are difficult to indicate. The EC also depends on the size of the marijuana plant, the amount of water and the number of times you drip, the lighting, the natural EC values of the tap water and the humidity levels in your growing space. All this determines how much water and nutrition a marijuana plant really needs.

Your own preference plays an important role as well of course. Some marijuana growers get great results with ‘irresponsibly’ strong nutrition solutions, others have fine harvests with really weak nutrient solutions. Generally it can be said that a nutrient solution for young marijuana plants has an EC value of 1.2 till 1.5 mS, and that can be all the way up until 3.0 mS for adult plants. If the natural EC of tap water deviates too much of different fertilizer averages (based on an average EC of 0.4/0.5 mS), that difference in EC has to be readjusted.

Example:

Grower A measures an EC of 0.5 in his tap water. He wants to have an EC of 1.8 and thus adds 1.3 EC worth of nutrition.

Grower B has harder water and measures an EC of 0.8 in his tap water. If he also wants to have an EC of 1.8, grower B only has to add 1.0 EC worth of nutrition. That’s 0.3 EC less than his fellow grower.

So to provide the same amount of nutrition as grower A, grower B has to create an EC of 2.1. Furthermore, you can assume that the EC in the slabs may be a half a point higher than in the dripping water. The level of the EC value also depends on the number of drip feedings. A relatively high feed solution with an EC of 2.7 for instance, spread over five drip feedings of 500 ml per plant will be less problematic than a drip feeding of 150 ml with the same solution, six times a day. In the latter case, the salts will evaporate from the solution so that the EC increases tremendously.

Those who prefer to drip frequently therefore use a less strong nutrient solution. In all cases you need to know what the nutrient solution in the slabs do. So check the pH and EC of the drain water that comes out of the slabs every other day. And every 5th and 6th day you need to take a water sample directly from the slabs using a syringe.
Source:http://www.ilovegrowinginvalid.com

 

[BudCreator]

Hey Enigma,
I dont use the filtered water straight away. I have a small tank (47g) to make sure the water that comes in is already PH leveled.
I must admint that the first time I ve put the plants, the PH was 7 and I had to ajust it. I might have done it too fast though :(

Thanks for the info!!!

 

[3N1GM4]

If you change the ph too fast it will shock them, maybe thats what happened.

 

[BudCreator]

Do you think they might get better? Right now there is just one set of leaves that is not lost in most of them...

 

[Junk]

This is the sole reason I don't use the tubs you do.

It would be much easier just to have one tub (I only have 4 plants) but I've seen people have problems with the roots getting all twisted up. Not in the cloner, in the large bucket. That's the only reason I do individual dwc. (rdwc actually)

In hydro, I ph to 6 because it's just going to go up.