Med-man Method - Ppm/ec Chart

[med man]

med-man method - feeding chart ppm/ec
hello folks

a great way to massive stinky yields and preventing powdery mildew and bug infestation and or root rot is keep your root zone salt build up free

this is my tried and true ppm/ec chart that will work best with my genes or anything else you are growing, especially from seed...

clones / seeds -
week 1 - 140ppm / 0.2 ec
week 2 - 210ppm / 0.3 ec

At this point go feed feed flush. Feed feed flush etc

veg
week 1 - 350ppm / 0.5 ec
week 2 - 420ppm / 0.7 ec
week 3 - 550-650 ppm / 0.8-0.9ec

bloom - transition
week 1 - 700ppm / 1.0 ec
week 2 - 800ppm / 1.1 ec

full bloom
weeks 3 - 5 (or more) - 800-900ppm / 1.2-1.3 ec

ripening (shock flushing)
15 days before flushing - 400-500ppm / 0.6-0.7 ec

flushing
15 days before harvest - 0-200ppm / 0.0-0.3 ec

shock ripening
at least 72 hours of pitch black and ice water. dehus on constant

less is more guys. pounding plants with ppms will stunt growth, stunt yield, lower quality, resin production, and send signals out to pests like pythium, powdery mildew and bud rot plus all the bugs you can name to come and finish them off. its how nature works. thos parasites are just waiting for the plants to call them in. and toxic salt build up is the #1 cause of all grow room related issues

med-man

 

[alaskind]

Great post. I absolutely agree that as far as nutes go, less is more. I find that a plant thats never been overfed or underfed are most vigorous. Stress is the enemy of yield, and a lot of well meaning growers stress their flowering plants with too much food. I use a coir blend and I feed on same schedule, keeps the unused foods movin through.

 

[med man]

hi alaskind

truth is, the med-man method is the good stress technique or gst. utilizing the plants natural allies to better their lives in turn bettering ours

now, that def does not mean there isnt bad stress lol and salt in the medium is the #1 cause of all grow room issues. powdery mildew, bud rot, low resin, shitty look, lower odor, bug infestations all occur from stress. now heat, drought etc can cuase these, but salt lock out is the most controlable in our day and age

thanks for chiming in. i take the eastern approach of prevention vs symptom treatment

med-man

 

[Joe Fresh]

med-man method - feeding chart ppm/ec
hello folks

a great way to massive stinky yields and preventing powdery mildew and bug infestation and or root rot is keep your root zone salt build up free

this is my tried and true ppm/ec chart that will work best with my genes or anything else you are growing, especially from seed...

clones / seeds -
week 1 - 140ppm / 0.2 ec
week 2 - 210ppm / 0.3 ec

At this point go feed feed flush. Feed feed flush etc

veg
week 1 - 350ppm / 0.5 ec
week 2 - 420ppm / 0.7 ec
week 3 - 550-650 ppm / 0.8-0.9ec

bloom - transition
week 1 - 700ppm / 1.0 ec
week 2 - 800ppm / 1.1 ec

full bloom
weeks 3 - 5 (or more) - 800-900ppm / 1.2-1.3 ec

ripening (shock flushing)
15 days before flushing - 400-500ppm / 0.6-0.7 ec

flushing
15 days before harvest - 0-200ppm / 0.0-0.3 ec

shock ripening
at least 72 hours of pitch black and ice water. dehus on constant

less is more guys. pounding plants with ppms will stunt growth, stunt yield, lower quality, resin production, and send signals out to pests like pythium, powdery mildew and bud rot plus all the bugs you can name to come and finish them off. its how nature works. thos parasites are just waiting for the plants to call them in. and toxic salt build up is the #1 cause of all grow room related issues

med-man

i been tellling ppl for years they over feed...i never go over 750ppm(1.5 EC)..and thats strain specific...usually i like to stay between 500 and 700(1.0-1.5EC)

difference is i feed constantly, and will give plain water only once every 10-14 days to help with any excess salts...

 

[alaskind]

i been tellling ppl for years they over feed...i never go over 750ppm(1.5 EC)..and thats strain specific...usually i like to stay between 500 and 700(1.0-1.5EC)

difference is i feed constantly, and will give plain water only once every 10-14 days to help with any excess salts...

I kinda think of it like a metabolism, constant adequate feedings to fuel a higher performing plant.

 

[Joe Fresh]

I kinda think of it like a metabolism, constant adequate feedings to fuel a higher performing plant.

yes, smaller but more frequent feedings...each time i gone to 2ec or above the plants got fried...or would build ups salt and lock out...when i first started growing the guy that showed me said 1.3ec constant feed all the way through....he told me never go up to 700 or else you will get budrot....i tried it, exactly what happened....since then i have changed strains many times and had to tweek the recipe...but fact remains the same...keep feedings low..

 

[alaskind]

I also enjoy the ability to respond to a nutrient need quickly, rather than if I fed weekly, ect....

 

[Og Gong]

med-man method - feeding chart ppm/ec
hello folks

a great way to massive stinky yields and preventing powdery mildew and bug infestation and or root rot is keep your root zone salt build up free

this is my tried and true ppm/ec chart that will work best with my genes or anything else you are growing, especially from seed...

clones / seeds -
week 1 - 140ppm / 0.2 ec
week 2 - 210ppm / 0.3 ec

At this point go feed feed flush. Feed feed flush etc

veg
week 1 - 350ppm / 0.5 ec
week 2 - 420ppm / 0.7 ec
week 3 - 550-650 ppm / 0.8-0.9ec

bloom - transition
week 1 - 700ppm / 1.0 ec
week 2 - 800ppm / 1.1 ec

full bloom
weeks 3 - 5 (or more) - 800-900ppm / 1.2-1.3 ec

ripening (shock flushing)
15 days before flushing - 400-500ppm / 0.6-0.7 ec

flushing
15 days before harvest - 0-200ppm / 0.0-0.3 ec

shock ripening
at least 72 hours of pitch black and ice water. dehus on constant

less is more guys. pounding plants with ppms will stunt growth, stunt yield, lower quality, resin production, and send signals out to pests like pythium, powdery mildew and bud rot plus all the bugs you can name to come and finish them off. its how nature works. thos parasites are just waiting for the plants to call them in. and toxic salt build up is the #1 cause of all grow room related issues

med-man

Thank you for this bro i been looking every where for something like this. :happy:

 

[Rootbound]

Keep in mind everyones environment is different. Lots of things play into how heavy you can feed.

 

[Og Gong]

My tap water is 564ppm. If i feed with my nutrients recommended feed chart my ppm will be 1500 way to high. If i cut the dose in half its about 1060ppm. So basically i need to have RO water to be able to feed with the recommended dose's? What do you guys recommend?

 

[GrowGod]

My tap water is 564ppm. If i feed with my nutrients recommended feed chart my ppm will be 1500 way to high. If i cut the dose in half its about 1060ppm. So basically i need to have RO water to be able to feed with the recommended dose's? What do you guys recommend?

That's really high out the tap I would RO for sure.

 

[GrowGod]

That's the only thing I like about the city I live in is 50 ppm water and oh of 7 most the time:)

 

[Joe Fresh]

My tap water is 564ppm. If i feed with my nutrients recommended feed chart my ppm will be 1500 way to high. If i cut the dose in half its about 1060ppm. So basically i need to have RO water to be able to feed with the recommended dose's? What do you guys recommend?

anything over 200ppm.....250 MAX should be not used unless it passes through an RO machine...

if i were you i would def invest in an RO machine


i use my tap water, which is 170ppm out the tap, my total ppms when i feed NEVER exceed 750-800, depending on stage of the plant and what week in flower and what strain, but generally my total feed is around 500-600, every watering, start to finnish, only time i boost a bit higher is when the plants metabolism is accelerated(usually during the stretch and first few weeks of flower, after that i go back down to what i was at before)...

basically i start my plants around 500ppm...will feed them @ 5-600 until i flip them, then starting the end of first week/start of second week, ill keep my base the same, but add about 150-200ppm of bloom booster for the next 3-4 weekd, maybe 5-6 depending strain...then ill stop using bloom booster and use a blooming finnisher which doesnt really raise ppms, so the last few weeks my ppms are around 5-600, final week i dont flush, just stop giving nutes because nutes are expensive, rather use it on the next crop lol

sorry for my rambling, im high lol

 

[Rootbound]

My tAp water is 650 ppm or 1.3 ec. I have to use RO water.

 

[Og Gong]

You guys are awesome thank you :happy:

 

[Rootbound]

Most all nutrient makers suggest way to high of feed rate. Best to start at half the reccomended rate. I run HD veg+ bloom nutes and feed what they recomend but this is the first company i have ran across that i can do this.

 

[Joe Fresh]

My tAp water is 650 ppm or 1.3 ec. I have to use RO water.

lol id be using RO just to drink it too lol...thats some high ppms for tap water....would hate to see analysis of it lol...

 

[Rootbound]

Nope. Hate to shower in it even lol.

 

[rubthe nub]

lol id be using RO just to drink it too lol...thats some high ppms for tap water....would hate to see analysis of it lol...

I wouldn't recommend drinking RO h2o frequently. Believe it or not you can actually dehydrate from drinking RO in excess.
RO acts like a sponge, why do you think its recommended for mixing salts/chems?
It will do the same thing inside you.

 

[Og Gong]

Just got back from the hydro store and brought home a stealth RO 100. :happy: Now i'm styling.