F
fiftythree33
- 107
- 16
For sure remove the extra RO membrane if that's all you're getting.
I don't have a pressure gauge on mine but I will once I get to test the pump again. It's the 500gph Danner.
You're welcome. :bong-hits:
Using a PUREWATERCLUB or any RO filter setup? You may be wasting $$$ and water
For sure remove the extra RO membrane if that's all you're getting.
I don't have a pressure gauge on mine but I will once I get to test the pump again. It's the 500gph Danner.
You're welcome. :bong-hits:
L
Lost
- 2,969
- 38
LOL..
0 ppm water? Maybe for the first month, if that. Sure I'll get 20 ppm for months but then again, you don't know what kind of water I have.. You making assumptions with out all the info. I regularly see 700 ppm plus (at my old place) Given that PPM and the volume of R/O I go thru, yea less that 0 ppm happens alot. There is nothing srong, its how it is when dealing with 700 ppm water plus. Up to a year and your starting to get to the 80-100 ppm levels at my use. So I chuck it and get a new one. Im not sweating 100 bucks a year.
1000 gallons? that less than a month.. fuck that I'll choose my battles and just replace the unit when my meters show it over 80ish ppm. Nothing wrong with a base ppm of 40-60 ppm.. thats almost nothing, the slate is clean enough at that point. You can sweat the details, but why when they have no change in outcome.. :)
I've grown a little herb im not stabbing at the darkness here :)
F
fiftythree33
- 107
- 16
RO membrane is stated to last 3-5 years. And recommended to be replaced if putting out over 20ppm according to PWC. Chucking all that plastic and metal to replace a $50 set of filters is just plain wrong.
Your clean output after a few months must be down at least half if not more. My RO membrane was clogged by not running a sediment filter (long story) I let it keep running. I was still getting 10ppm water but at most 10 gallons a day. Didn't measure the waste water but it had to be absurd. So if your output has dropped at all your waste has increased.
Run two 20" DI housings and get 4000 gallons probably a lot more I'm only going off what PWC states for their little tiny filter. Now you have an RO system that'll last 5 years with some simple upkeep, gives you reliable 0ppm water it's entire life and wastes the minimum amount of water. The $500 bucks I just saved you will easily pay for the parts and enough DI resin likely for the 5 years. The RO membrane manu RECOMMENDS no more than 500ppm starting water you should already be softening your 700ppm water.
Why did Mrdizzle's last 2 maybe 3 mpb runs fail? He will tell you he doesn't know exactly why. That's why I sweat these details. Knowing that you're starting point is consistent and as close to perfect as possible is going to get you that much closer to success. What's in that 40ppm's? Did you have it tested? I'd rather just not bother paying for the test and know for certain I'm using 0ppm water.
All of this fixed for less money and time than you spending 100 a year for a brand new unit. Please stop wasting resources man I beg you. Plastic is made from petroleum you know this, tossing it in a landfill because you can't turn some screws is just sickening.
Your clean output after a few months must be down at least half if not more. My RO membrane was clogged by not running a sediment filter (long story) I let it keep running. I was still getting 10ppm water but at most 10 gallons a day. Didn't measure the waste water but it had to be absurd. So if your output has dropped at all your waste has increased.
Run two 20" DI housings and get 4000 gallons probably a lot more I'm only going off what PWC states for their little tiny filter. Now you have an RO system that'll last 5 years with some simple upkeep, gives you reliable 0ppm water it's entire life and wastes the minimum amount of water. The $500 bucks I just saved you will easily pay for the parts and enough DI resin likely for the 5 years. The RO membrane manu RECOMMENDS no more than 500ppm starting water you should already be softening your 700ppm water.
Why did Mrdizzle's last 2 maybe 3 mpb runs fail? He will tell you he doesn't know exactly why. That's why I sweat these details. Knowing that you're starting point is consistent and as close to perfect as possible is going to get you that much closer to success. What's in that 40ppm's? Did you have it tested? I'd rather just not bother paying for the test and know for certain I'm using 0ppm water.
All of this fixed for less money and time than you spending 100 a year for a brand new unit. Please stop wasting resources man I beg you. Plastic is made from petroleum you know this, tossing it in a landfill because you can't turn some screws is just sickening.
F
fiftythree33
- 107
- 16
I apologize for this you are correct I did make an assumption along the way that was incorrect.
It seems for some the sediment and coco-carbon pre-filters do actually drop the ppm levels. This is not the case for my water and I made some claims based on that info and I was wrong.
Very sorry. This does not remove the need to soften water before it hits the RO membrane. I'd guess anyone putting 100ppm or more to the RO would benefit from adding/moving a DI filter before the RO.
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Just for the record, the reason I stayed away from RO (never used it for my aquariums, either!) is specifically because of the waste issue. I get 2gals waste/gal pure water, and it only takes a few hours to fill up a 35gal trash can. I used several per week during summer. Creating 2 gallons of "waste" water per gallon of "good" water, to me, is criminal. So, it's going somewhere and I am not just letting it feed the leach field and fill up our septic system.
To help clear some things up: I moved to the Sierra Nevada from southern California about six years ago, I'm actually not terribly far from motherlode, by my guesstimation.
Where I moved from is a city that owns its own very large well. This water is treated only with chlorine because EPA demands it. The water is high pH and high alkalinity, but is otherwise relatively clean, primary alkalinity is calcium carbonate (well rests below a thick bed of limestone). Other than the chlorination, it is very much like water you've just pumped out of a well, it requires no filtration, nothing other than what the government requires, which actually "dirties" this water, the chlorine added is considered a contamination, it's that clean.
Where I live now, in the mountains here east of Sacramento, the geology is decidedly very, very different. We have a mix of granite plutons (the plutons are actually floating on the rock below because the granite is lighter, thusly, the Sierra Nevada range is rising NOT because of tectonic motion but because it's made up in large part of floaties!), volcanic lava fields (batholith, IIRC) which, as you may know is comprised of many minerals, and ancient beaches. Honestly, the geology is very mixed, too many soil and rock types to get into. Going over public test reports from areas nearby (remember, this is called gold country for a reason and mining methods have not always been very clean) I see readings for substances like arsenic, which does occur naturally here, lead, and many other heavy metals that have not appeared on reports I've read in my previous location.
The well we currently live on now is just under 800' deep. Rain and other weather patterns have zero affect on the water, which leads me to believe it's being filtered through quite a lot of rock and not just soil or dirt (we live on a heavy, red clay, which just happens to be the color my pre-filter turns, as well as the toilets, showers, tubs, sinks, etc, etc, etc, ad nauseum).
I live about a mile away from a cave maintained by UCDavis that is filled with gypsum crystals. My water turns everything orange, and I believe I mentioned my own testing results of my current well water. We do nothing more than filter what goes into the house with carbon, a whole-house filter.
Landscape water is done with a line that comes directly from the well and bypasses completely any filtration. Therefore, that water is very hard, not a terribly high EC if I recall, I only tested it once after I got the EC meter, but I took a ppm reading out of our sink, before my husband rerouted the landscape and gardening water lines. Came out at 158, which I thought wasn't too bad at all, but everything I observe tells me there's more to it than that, as you seem to surmise.
I think I missed one of your posts, fifty, makes the one following it look silly. GAH! I hate when that happens, it interrupts the flow.
To help clear some things up: I moved to the Sierra Nevada from southern California about six years ago, I'm actually not terribly far from motherlode, by my guesstimation.
Where I moved from is a city that owns its own very large well. This water is treated only with chlorine because EPA demands it. The water is high pH and high alkalinity, but is otherwise relatively clean, primary alkalinity is calcium carbonate (well rests below a thick bed of limestone). Other than the chlorination, it is very much like water you've just pumped out of a well, it requires no filtration, nothing other than what the government requires, which actually "dirties" this water, the chlorine added is considered a contamination, it's that clean.
Where I live now, in the mountains here east of Sacramento, the geology is decidedly very, very different. We have a mix of granite plutons (the plutons are actually floating on the rock below because the granite is lighter, thusly, the Sierra Nevada range is rising NOT because of tectonic motion but because it's made up in large part of floaties!), volcanic lava fields (batholith, IIRC) which, as you may know is comprised of many minerals, and ancient beaches. Honestly, the geology is very mixed, too many soil and rock types to get into. Going over public test reports from areas nearby (remember, this is called gold country for a reason and mining methods have not always been very clean) I see readings for substances like arsenic, which does occur naturally here, lead, and many other heavy metals that have not appeared on reports I've read in my previous location.
The well we currently live on now is just under 800' deep. Rain and other weather patterns have zero affect on the water, which leads me to believe it's being filtered through quite a lot of rock and not just soil or dirt (we live on a heavy, red clay, which just happens to be the color my pre-filter turns, as well as the toilets, showers, tubs, sinks, etc, etc, etc, ad nauseum).
I live about a mile away from a cave maintained by UCDavis that is filled with gypsum crystals. My water turns everything orange, and I believe I mentioned my own testing results of my current well water. We do nothing more than filter what goes into the house with carbon, a whole-house filter.
Landscape water is done with a line that comes directly from the well and bypasses completely any filtration. Therefore, that water is very hard, not a terribly high EC if I recall, I only tested it once after I got the EC meter, but I took a ppm reading out of our sink, before my husband rerouted the landscape and gardening water lines. Came out at 158, which I thought wasn't too bad at all, but everything I observe tells me there's more to it than that, as you seem to surmise.
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Oh yeah, knowing that I have a 6stage PWC unit, remembering that I want at least one DI unit coming out of the membrane (being a fishthing I'm stuck on a final polishing of the water), how would you plumb another DI unit before the membrane housing?
H
hydlog
- 7
- 3
ok let me clear a few things up:
1) carbon and sediment filters are not designed to lower PPM's. If they do lower the PPM's it will only be a small percentage.
2) RO systems are the best way to remove PPM's. As long as you change the included pre-filters on time and/or get extra pre-filtration based on how dirty your tap water is the membrane will last at least a year or more. They are pretty affordable so this eliminates the need to mess with DI.
3) NO ONE EVER uses DI before an RO. That is counter intuitive and whatever website or blog recommends doing this is misinformed. DI will remove all the PPM's, period but is very easily exhausted depending on how dirty your water is and how much water you use. DI is typically ONLY used as a post filter after the RO stage. Whatever remaining PPM's are left after RO the DI will remove. This is overkill for hydro and gardening. RO is just fine. Only aquarium and other specialties applications require DI post filtration.
If you use DI before an RO there is no reason to use RO as you already have 000 PPM water. The only time to use only DI (without RO) is when you have very low PPM's tap water and don't use a whole lot of water. Here is a simple calculation. A standard 10"x2.5" canister of DI has the capacity to remove 7,500 PPM's. So if your tap water is 250 PPM, you divide 7,500 by 250 and you have 30 gallons. You can filter 30 gallons of water with a single canister of DI resin which costs around $35. Not very cost effective. On the other hand if you live in San Francisco and have 35 PPM at your tap then you can get 214 gallons of pure water....still not very cost effective compared to straight RO. So no DI discussion is necessary for this forum.
Peace
1) carbon and sediment filters are not designed to lower PPM's. If they do lower the PPM's it will only be a small percentage.
2) RO systems are the best way to remove PPM's. As long as you change the included pre-filters on time and/or get extra pre-filtration based on how dirty your tap water is the membrane will last at least a year or more. They are pretty affordable so this eliminates the need to mess with DI.
3) NO ONE EVER uses DI before an RO. That is counter intuitive and whatever website or blog recommends doing this is misinformed. DI will remove all the PPM's, period but is very easily exhausted depending on how dirty your water is and how much water you use. DI is typically ONLY used as a post filter after the RO stage. Whatever remaining PPM's are left after RO the DI will remove. This is overkill for hydro and gardening. RO is just fine. Only aquarium and other specialties applications require DI post filtration.
If you use DI before an RO there is no reason to use RO as you already have 000 PPM water. The only time to use only DI (without RO) is when you have very low PPM's tap water and don't use a whole lot of water. Here is a simple calculation. A standard 10"x2.5" canister of DI has the capacity to remove 7,500 PPM's. So if your tap water is 250 PPM, you divide 7,500 by 250 and you have 30 gallons. You can filter 30 gallons of water with a single canister of DI resin which costs around $35. Not very cost effective. On the other hand if you live in San Francisco and have 35 PPM at your tap then you can get 214 gallons of pure water....still not very cost effective compared to straight RO. So no DI discussion is necessary for this forum.
Peace
LexLuthor
- 2,972
- 263
I know its an old thread but....when people say their "wasting" water that does not mean its "dissapearing" they usually mean there paying for some water that they are not actually using or they are using more than what they need.
H
hydlog
- 7
- 3
yo lex0415 - you are absolutely right. When people complain about wasting water is usually has to do with the fact they get a water bill and some of the RO water goes down the drain and they pay for that water. I have always said there is no alien mother ship taking your waste water off planet earth. It all goes back to the hydrologic cycle one way or another, either back to your municipality or back into the ground or surface water. Besides, there are seriously efficient RO technology these days. Check this out: it's 1 part waste for 4 parts RO water!!!!!!! www.super-logic.com
LexLuthor
- 2,972
- 263
hahaa there is definately no alien mother ship taking water off the planet...lol
oscar169
Farming 🌱
Supporter
- 2,729
- 263
I laugh when I see people fighting about Ro Water........:p
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