Building out a wharehouse, had questions on sealing it up

[Confuten1]

first some pictures of what Ive got done so far

Ok so the building is a cylinder block with 14 ft roof. I have a neighbor to one side because im the last unit. that wall i share with a neighbor is a double sided drywall. I built up an additional wall via 2x4s and I sealed all the cracks of the ajoining wall with foam and caulking on the ground. as you can see from pictures 2 and 3the foaming. I only foamed around the permiters of the wall that connects to my neighbor.
should I foam every single 2x4 that touches that wall or is that over kill?
also I plan on using 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on that ajoing wall and on the cieling sealing each seperately, is that overkill or sound practice. I plan on running a sealed room but will have intakes and exhaust to refresh the room once a day or as needed.

the main flower room is 15x23 with 10.5 ft lids 12k max .Veg and drying room is to the side of the building with no neighbors, should i also foam seal that area?
5ton with air handler in flower and 3 ton mini split in veg.


hopefully this is enough info to get this thread started, please ask if more info is needed.

Ill discuss the ventilation later but I also plan on constantly running a 12 inch exhaust in the "dead space" front area of my unit. its about 4100 cubic ft, i hope to create neg pressure and I will also be running a ozone gen in that area. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated

confu

 

[toquer]

AC goop will work just fine on the individual 2x4's.

 

[germinator]

My .02....Maybe add a layer of visqueen between your drywall n insulation on the common walls.

 

[Billyboat]

Looking good.

I wouldn't worry about foaming the 2x4s, as it's gonna be sealed up after you install the vapor barrier, drywall, muding, and painting.

Drywall is cheap, so why not double that wall up?

Keep it up!

Did you find the gavitas in stock anywhere?

 

[Texas Kid]

Germinator is spot on with the vapor barrier suggestion..those cinder block walls will sweat like a mofo and mold like crazy behind your walls. I would probably put a layer of rigid insulation on the cinder wall and then a stud wall with rock.Wood studs are a total pain in hte ass for a long term setup but if you are there for just a year or so you'll be fine...I would use green rock on your lower 4 feet to cut down on mold in the walls...do you have to pass inspections? none of that will fly in a commercial build out that has to be inspected by the city.

 

[LittleDabbie]

Always neat watching a grow room get put together specially one like this from the ground up!!! :D

Thanks for sharing look forward to the finished pictures.

 

[D.I.Y]

Shit sorry I thought it said whorehouse,I always wondered how they sealed them up:)

 

[Confuten1]

Looking good.

I wouldn't worry about foaming the 2x4s, as it's gonna be sealed up after you install the vapor barrier, drywall, muding, and painting.

Drywall is cheap, so why not double that wall up?

Keep it up!

Did you find the gavitas in stock anywhere?

thnx buddy, yea i plan on doubleing up drywall, moster gardens have Gavitas in stock, sadly Im hemraging $$$ and might have to go a cheaper route, wont know for a couple more weeks. 650$ breaker for a 3 phase 150 amp, u warned me. man building materials went up lol.

 

[Confuten1]

Germinator is spot on with the vapor barrier suggestion..those cinder block walls will sweat like a mofo and mold like crazy behind your walls. I would probably put a layer of rigid insulation on the cinder wall and then a stud wall with rock.Wood studs are a total pain in hte ass for a long term setup but if you are there for just a year or so you'll be fine...I would use green rock on your lower 4 feet to cut down on mold in the walls...do you have to pass inspections? none of that will fly in a commercial build out that has to be inspected by the city.

thnx for jumping in @Texas Kid, good to kno about the cylinder blocks, its not to late for me to add sheets if rigid insulation and i plan on using a vapor barrier. for long term build outs do u suggest metal studs as apposed to wood?Im trying to aviod inspections, I have the space leased as a storage/workshop.

confu

 

[Confuten1]

AC goop will work just fine on the individual 2x4's.

ty sir, Im assuming its cheaper than the foam?

confu

 

[Confuten1]

My .02....Maybe add a layer of visqueen between your drywall n insulation on the common walls.

solid advise, thnx man.

confu

 

[Confuten1]

Always neat watching a grow room get put together specially one like this from the ground up!!! :D

Thanks for sharing look forward to the finished pictures.

my pleasure Dab

confu

 

[Confuten1]

Shit sorry I thought it said whorehouse,I always wondered how they sealed them up:)

made my morining when i read that always great to laugh outloud first thing in the morning...

confu

 

[soserthc1]

Sweet @Confuten1 moving on up to bigger shit
Best of luck my friend
Gonna put the massive yielding lad to work in there

 

[Texas Kid]

Steel studs for sure

 

[Prime C]

And screw the soft side first. Nice build!

 

[ChalkyWhite]

Thanks for sharing confuten

 

[Herb Forester]

Germinator is spot on with the vapor barrier suggestion..those cinder block walls will sweat like a mofo and mold like crazy behind your walls. I would probably put a layer of rigid insulation on the cinder wall and then a stud wall with rock.Wood studs are a total pain in hte ass for a long term setup but if you are there for just a year or so you'll be fine...I would use green rock on your lower 4 feet to cut down on mold in the walls...do you have to pass inspections? none of that will fly in a commercial build out that has to be inspected by the city.

Rigid insulation for sure. I skipped that on my first commercial building and regretted it. Never heard of green rock, will have to check that out. Why do you like metal studs besides fire code? To prevent moisture buildup?

And screw the soft side first. Nice build!

Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by this? I just started using some metal so learning the tricks.

 

[Prime C]

Rigid insulation for sure. I skipped that on my first commercial building and regretted it. Never heard of green rock, will have to check that out. Why do you like metal studs besides fire code? To prevent moisture buildup?


Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by this? I just started using some metal so learning the tricks.

The soft side is the open side of a metal stud. Screw yhe soft side first makes it easier when attaching

 

[germinator]

I suppose your ideal outside wall cross section starting off the inside face of block might be,
2 inch light gage z furring strip for
1-2 inch rigid insulation covered with
Vapor barrier ie visqueen followed by
5/8 greenboard as necessary.

P.S As a precaution you could oversize your exhaust for constant negative pressure in your entire lease space.