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Grow Room Electrical

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Grow Room Electrical

hiboy 1,406 Replies 326,800 Views
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So you would install the power cord to the outlet connect to the T103 time clock and then run it to your 240 V outlets
Hb
 
Just wondering if anyone has done or heard of running all electrical off of solar panels?
 
Most solar panels are grid connected via either micro or a larger central inverter with which both styles change the direct current produced by the panels to an AC current that can be fed back into the grid.
All lighting, either HPS, LED or any others variants uses that same AC current.
That said it sure won't hurt your electric bill to have panels offsetting what current you do use for your grow. I've got a small rooftop PV setup that takes care of most of what I use all year, electricity wise.
Btw welcome to the farm.
 
Most solar panels are grid connected via either micro or a larger central inverter with which both styles change the direct current produced by the panels to an AC current that can be fed back into the grid.
All lighting, either HPS, LED or any others variants uses that same AC current.
That said it sure won't hurt your electric bill to have panels offsetting what current you do use for your grow. I've got a small rooftop PV setup that takes care of most of what I use all year, electricity wise.
Btw welcome to the farm.
Thanks. I look forward I look forward to soaking up as much info as I can and helping others in the future. Haven't got anything started yet, still piecing everything together. Just pretty much exploring all options and ideas.
 
I have one for ya.

Having an issue with a new a.c., my master controller can't handle the load.

This is an option if it will work. See pic below for a general wire up.

Using a light controller and the signal wire to my controller to turn on and off the light controller which powers up the a.c.. will having cycle on and off repeatedly cause the light controller to overheat and cause issues?

My other option is to wire the temp sensor to my controller, but I have to take apart the unit, test the voltage, get this and that to make it work.

20170629 142323
 
I have one for ya.

Having an issue with a new a.c., my master controller can't handle the load.

This is an option if it will work. See pic below for a general wire up.

Using a light controller and the signal wire to my controller to turn on and off the light controller which powers up the a.c.. will having cycle on and off repeatedly cause the light controller to overheat and cause issues?

My other option is to wire the temp sensor to my controller, but I have to take apart the unit, test the voltage, get this and that to make it work.

View attachment 715451
Jumping for joy I got a question I remember 10 years ago there would be so many questions I couldn't keep up I'm trying to figure out what happened
You should be fine doing the way your picture shows the only thing that triggers inside that light controller is a contactor and those can be shut off multiple times without any issues and if you had to you could just replace the contactor without the whole box
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Awesome!!!

Has to be easier that rewiring the a.c. thermostat into xx then into c.f. then wired to my controller.

Now what I'm worried about is since its opening and closing the contact (example every 7 mins cycling) would iverheat said contact.

Any thoughts?
 
Update

Going to build my own "light controller box". Went with a 40a double pole contact, metal box, 20a sockets. All parts should be in after the holiday.
 
Does anyone know what the best way to put some type of amperage reader in, or near my boxes, as I have a shared warehouse space. I am about to do some serious upgrades and know that in the past I often pay for part of the neighbors bills too, as its one bill and we have to go over which days we had what, then fight over whether one had their lights set to what wattage.

It would really be nice to know the exact KW hours that each of us is using, and it would also be good to have for data, as I would like to do some tests with the gavitas and some of our veg rooms. My electrician said he could put in a meter before each box to give what that box is drawing, but I am thinking with technology today there must be something a bit better and more accurate than the old school spinning meters... Trying to update towards the future, not the past...
 
Power companies charge by the kw not the amp. Amps play a role in how much power you can safely pull from your box.

I'd bring your buddy and write down everything he uses, then you use, write down how many watts and for how long. About the best i can come up with.
 
@DemonTrich Yes as why I mentioned the need to know kw hours. I saw back in the day either on this site, or when Advanced was alive, that a guy made boxes with what seemed to be a amperage or a KW reader. I have 4- 400amp services. I use three of the boxes and he uses one besides a few little lights here and there, so I thought it might just be easy to put a meter on his box, but maybe a meter that you can log data from and not just a number, as why I am reaching out, as truly trying to have the most data I can, to make the best moves as the future will be determined on your efficiency and I know I am failing terribly there...

We do the number thing now, but its always a I couldnt of used that much power when we both have nearly the same amount of ligths but I am always paying 25% more of the bill. Just want something that is not our math, but a machine that reads and says this is what you used for this particular sub panel.
 
I am looking into things like this. Just curious if anyone else has messed around with them, or if any nerds here have been taking data for energy savings to better their efficiency
 

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Thanks

already ordered a 40a contact, box, and everything to build a controller to handle my a.c. needs. Was hoping to get it in hand today and build it, hoping for it to be in .tomorrow
 
I build panels exactly like that, biggest was a 400A/3Phase panel, built a couple for a few DGs who have big shows in warehouses.
 

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@Olyver Thank you, you are actually the guy I remember from a while ago seeing the type of work you did, then looking in all of my boxes it seems very archaic... I can not plug the ballasts in outside the room though. Gavitas don't have remote ballasts. I am using Gavita, Dimlux and 4 bulb 4 ft fixtures. I have 3 400 amp boxes. I am using 800 of those, or two of the sub panels. Can you explain a bit about what the digital screen part of each box does?
 
@Olyver lots of work, never seen the result of the MJ commercial explosion before. Among other things I probably wouldn't have placed the plc along with the contactors inside the panel.

The original poster was asking on sub metering, and I don't see any submetering going on, did I miss that? (Large panel, cover off).

When all those ballasts get their cords connected must look like a sight, and mounting the ballasts directly to the plywood back board (non-fireproofed) may not prove itself in the long run, as they (ballasts) do generate some heat.
I count twenty four, 240 volt receptacles and ten two pole contactors but only showing seven two pole cb's in the panel?
The muffin fans a nice touch, but not up to the task of managing the heat that'll be generated inside that panel, imho. Not trying to be snarky but do have concerns on the execution.
 
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Dan, your opinion means nothing to me on my work, I am industrial electrician for over 25 years and never had one issue with my work. As for you not placing the PLC with the contactors, you need to look at industrial panels.
 
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