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Calling Out The Organic Growing Machines

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Calling Out The Organic Growing Machines

oldskol4evr 1,747 Replies 166,722 Views
Page 11 of 88 · Replies 201–220 of 1,748
#201
@Ceveres

"MountainOrganics said:
if this is our first cycle with your no till recipe and dont have trimmings and stalks to compost for use as multch, would we just use wheat straw or something as a multch?

also..... this is kinda a silly question...... top dressings under the multch correct?

respect and many blessings to you bluejay and coots and the whole no till fam


Straw is an excellent choice and a good one to use in general. Other great options are your nutrient accumulating plants such as comfrey, nettles, yarrow, dandelion, horsetail (equisetum), excess herbs (mints, basils etc) when you cut the back. Many options for mulch - that salad or bag of lettuce that's a little too far gone to eat? Mulch it! Compost it! Whatever, it all turns into the same thing in the end anyways.

I do not disturb the mulch layer, other than to take the occasional picture for the mulch-porn addicts around here LOL, just sprinkle your topdress around evenly and water it in, done deal!"

@G gnome is my information correct? btw he is self proclaimed fact checker.

,
 
#202
Can i mention I'm really glad to have found some meat in this pile of scraps. You gentlemen have a wealth of knowledge. I like all of your styles also. @oldskol4evr is the comfrey man. i know many guys who live by the stuff. it's a great dynamic accumulator. If you could muster up enough craziness to eat the stuff it's healthier than spinach.
 
#204
Organikz said:
@Ceveres

"MountainOrganics said:
if this is our first cycle with your no till recipe and dont have trimmings and stalks to compost for use as multch, would we just use wheat straw or something as a multch?

also..... this is kinda a silly question...... top dressings under the multch correct?

respect and many blessings to you bluejay and coots and the whole no till fam


Straw is an excellent choice and a good one to use in general. Other great options are your nutrient accumulating plants such as comfrey, nettles, yarrow, dandelion, horsetail (equisetum), excess herbs (mints, basils etc) when you cut the back. Many options for mulch - that salad or bag of lettuce that's a little too far gone to eat? Mulch it! Compost it! Whatever, it all turns into the same thing in the end anyways.

I do not disturb the mulch layer, other than to take the occasional picture for the mulch-porn addicts around here LOL, just sprinkle your topdress around evenly and water it in, done deal!"

@G gnome is my information correct? btw he is self proclaimed fact checker.

,
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also keep in mind that when you use mulch,,dont place all the way to the stem,,keep it back a inch or so from plant stem,,it does break down and will mold,you dont want to kill the plant by rotting the stem,,im the same as you and only time i disturb it is to see if it breaking down and what magic is happening,,lmao i added this fact cause i found out the hard way,,i like to place aluminum foil shaped as a bell out a inch from stalk and deter most wasp that like to inject and run,lol
 
#206
Organikz said:
Can i mention I'm really glad to have found some meat in this pile of scraps. You gentlemen have a wealth of knowledge. I like all of your styles also. @oldskol4evr is the comfrey man. i know many guys who live by the stuff. it's a great dynamic accumulator. If you could muster up enough craziness to eat the stuff it's healthier than spinach.
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it really is,folk swear by it,,eco does and its healthy as hell,,i love to use it,,it is a great fertilizer if you can get past the smell,,has many medicnal properties to it,,like i was telling a friend other day,,dont put it on open gash on your skin,,the shit works so well that it will scab up in hours leaving the wound under it open preventing it from closing up,,now once the wound starts to close up ,comfrey time,,shit is great,,make sure your not alergic to it,,just put a dap of juice on your wrist or arm wait a while and see if you have alergic reaction,,that easy,,i was making a compost ,peatmoss,soil with char just other day,,some how split my forearm open,,just a small gash,,didnt even think about it much,,well the char has been charged with comfrey juice,,in a hour it had scabed up and had a bubble,so i pop the bubble and let it bleed a few minutes,and after a while i put the juice back on and the damn thing is almost healed
 
#207
oldskol4evr said:
it really is,folk swear by it,,eco does and its healthy as hell,,i love to use it,,it is a great fertilizer if you can get past the smell,,has many medicnal properties to it,,like i was telling a friend other day,,dont put it on open gash on your skin,,the shit works so well that it will scab up in hours leaving the wound under it open preventing it from closing up,,now once the wound starts to close up ,comfrey time,,shit is great,,make sure your not alergic to it,,just put a dap of juice on your wrist or arm wait a while and see if you have alergic reaction,,that easy,,i was making a compost ,peatmoss,soil with char just other day,,some how split my forearm open,,just a small gash,,didnt even think about it much,,well the char has been charged with comfrey juice,,in a hour it had scabed up and had a bubble,so i pop the bubble and let it bleed a few minutes,and after a while i put the juice back on and the damn thing is almost healed
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Wow that's some Wolverine shit! Lol Do you have to grow comfrey or can it be purchased somewhere?
Organikz said:
i really hate to link you to another spot. Here is where organic growing is king. This thread will basically cover everything in organics.

https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/all-organic-recipes-and-notes-compilation.1421024/
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I have been over there before. Decided against making an account when I saw the kind of elitist attitude they were throwing around. Not a very conducive learning environment.. I understand being annoyed with the influx of n00bs and their horrible questions, but everyone was a n00b once. It only takes persistence and a willingness to learn to graduate to post-n00b lol.

I'm sure there is an unimaginable wealth of information over there that I will gladly learn from without interacting hehe
 
#208
Ceveres said:
Wow that's some Wolverine shit! Lol Do you have to grow comfrey or can it be purchased somewhere?


I have been over there before. Decided against making an account when I saw the kind of elitist attitude they were throwing around. Not a very conducive learning environment.. I understand being annoyed with the influx of n00bs and their horrible questions, but everyone was a n00b once. It only takes persistence and a willingness to learn to graduate to post-n00b lol.

I'm sure there is an unimaginable wealth of information over there that I will gladly learn from without interacting hehe
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i have it growing wild all over the place,,im sure you could find seeds somewere,,im gonna try and harvest some this coming spring and isolate a bed were i can keep it at arms length,,same here with grass city dont like the place much,,what im really looking foward to is the wild lettuce,,shit is like opium and its legal,,im sure you have as i have cut down many tons of the shit in your yard the stalk has sap that runs from it,,but the real medicine is in the root,,you can dry it and smoke it,,you dont get high but numbs the body,,me and mama both need this,,so im on the look out,,great thing about this hurricane if there ever was one ,is all the rain it produced i will be cutting grass by weeks end and i will be on the look out for the lettuce,lmao
 
#209
My first soap nut concentrate. Soaked 1/4 cup of crushed soap nuts in hot water. Shook it a few times over a 24 hour period. I need to apply this stuff. Looks like beer lol
 

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#212
Ceveres said:
Legit I thought it was a beer at first till I read it lol

Please elaborate on soap nut concentrate and it's benefits?
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Soap nuts contain saponin which itself is an organic pesticide. This is from clackamas's latest research. If you make this concentrate and add a 1/4 cup to your 1 cup solution of warm water and neem/aloe foliar...notice I didn't mention silica. Not needed. This is an emulsifier as well. Takes a little extra shaking but honestly I keep my tank shaking while I apply. I hear it applies like foam.

I also add 10 drops of lemongrass oil to the jar. It needs to go in the refrigerator after soaking 24 hours.

The most effective concoction would be what I mentioned 2 tsp neem 1 TBS karanja oil. You're set for eradication if you apply every third day 4x. I know some organic gardeners who regularly apply some sort of systemic organic pesticide every 3rd day. This is the time it takes for about any egg to hatch.
 

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#213
Organikz said:
Good stuff. To be exact that's called mycellium aka Santa's beard mold. Good stuff. It actually creates a network in your soil passing nutrients around.

Great subjects have been tapped. Do I believe biochar is the most sustainable way to refertilize lands? No...infertile land can be made fertile again in simple ways with living organic matter. Clover and rye grass can kickstart things. Alfalfa can access nutrients at ridiculous depths in the ground where no other farm crop could. Surface composting. There are just so many other ways. humus is a better source of carbon than charcoal. It has a much better surface area contact.
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Word :-)
Char is the best way to tame saline land and or to restore land that has been subjected to synthetics and poor practice, Carbon is the answer to long term soil fertility, but it comes at a huge cost in the dynamic gases released in its production when this is char alone. if the whole world started making bio char tomorrow, there would be all manner of consequences, just as there are now with the bypassing of system failure via additional synthetic nitrogen. IMO char is part of the solution, as is inoculation, humic acid, compost, mulching, cover crops, companion planting, rotation, reduction in the use of synthetics, tillage, irrigation which we know cause problems with soil carbon, compaction, aggregation, biology and so sustainability.
The key is always to know what you got first and then decide whats needed.

You can only re introduce Nitrogen using Clover, if there is sufficient Phosphate, Potassium and other micros like Mg, Mn, Zn, B and so on present to power the system of clover development, and then you need the calcium present or there will be no bridge between the clover N and the clays themselves in order that any other plant might benefit. Not knowing whats in the soil might mean we are feeding pathogens via Rhizobia and nothing more.
It is super complicated to keep soil systems peaking in any high intensity system, and not just as simple as sowing a shit load of clover or other, or even dumping a load of char in without knowing if this is for adding or removing.
Same with super soils, whats going on and when? Do we care about this or just that it works, or seems to work, or people say it works? The list of things i see is bizarre, its often like a complicated curry and i have never analyzed any soil and found so much matter in one location. i honestly think people would be surprised at just how little they can get away with to produce a healthy plant. Percentages of matter in soil recipes and the like seem about as solid science as the European unions 3% debt to GDP policy, ie that they are made up based on nothing more than one guy saying 3% in response to a question no one understood to begin with.
I dont think we should start making soil, until we know what soil is, but this is just me I guess and i dont take away anyone using super soil, its attractive just being able to use water un ph'd etc. i just cant see this as flexible enough to adjust when deficiency strikes, and so i myself prefer to use bottles and biology to affect decent media; clays (red, white and black in basic language) + other zeolites converted from leonardite for example, loam, sand, compost, coco fibre, rice huills, all of which sit together easily and can be brought cheaply, thats my super soil, its not far off what i can dig up anywhere :-)

I am saddened to see cover cropping being discussed as if we can simply grow alternate crops without first understanding our systems, and or building a program of IFM (Integrated fertility management) that allows us such freedom as is currently being sold by the idea of simply planting some other thing in the dirt to get back to soil. Just as its complex to grow MJ, so it is any other plant, esp when one is trying to bring to life a seed in common dirt.

I have a question too? What is the difference in protein accumulation and or gene expression of our cannabis plant, if bacillus subtilus is the dominant root organism at the point of seed germination, versus the same seed and plant that has been tickled to life by glomus intraradices? Is there a difference in the outcome for the plant and so for us as consumers? Any ideas are very welcome... :-)
 
#214
tifosi said:
Caterpillars,Gnats,flies & mites it's a day to day fight to stay on top of things. hopefully the rain washed all the bugs over to Houston for you. I got the Char burner moved over to the thinnest Burn pile,What am i looking for to char up & when? I don't want to scalp the weeds and create more dust. I have Almond,peach,maple & grape & fig leafs.
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do you hang bottles on the morning sun side of your fruit trees to monitor? Add ammonium to the bottle, its a great trap for lots of fruit tree pests, eg citrus flies etc. Where are the predators in your garden, no wasps? ladybugs, lacewings, ants, birds??

The most efficient trap for monitoring is the glass or plastic McPhail-type trap baited with torula yeast lures. Yellow sticky traps baited with spiroketal sex-pheromone lures (attractive to male flies) and/or ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, or diammonium phosphate food bait (attractive to both sexes) also are commonly used to monitor olive fruit fly populations for example, but these generally are less efficient than McPhail traps.

I also use a nano milled combination of zeolites which I use to dust the plants, this seems to really piss of mites etc. I dont use de, it dont work. it is ok for pouring around the door to stop pests crossing, but when applied to a plant, it makes no difference where zeolites have shown excellent control
 
#216
tifosi said:
I can get 2ft. of charcoal from each burn what do you think would be a good amount to mix in a 4 by 4 by 3 hole?
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start at 5% unless you have big problems. You can add up to 30% but know that char will take nutrients out of your soil if you dont pre inoculate it. This might mean you end up feeding char and not plants. 5% is usually enough but there isnt a hard answer to this
 

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#218
oldskol4evr said:
thats perfect,,thats more less what im doing to,,you can screen it to any size you want,,even dust works well in the garden,,the point of it is to absorb nutrients and stop leaching,,it acts like a sponge and holds on to it,,thats why whatever size you decide to use,charge it first,,by charging it,it already has the nutrients in it and wont suck out the nutrients in your soil,,it does that over time,,but charging is giving it to the roots system imediatly,,they have also proved that it also help in diese and pest,,if you think about it,just as i was telling jumpincactus last night,,when i over dosed,first thing they did was make me drink a huge glass of charcoal then pumped my gut,,the charcaol absorbs the poision and after the pump your gut and you puke to high hell you shit the rest,,same thing in the garden bro,,thats why it would be hard for me to be convinced it dont help in breaking up clat=y base soils and such ,,once you qwench the char let it sit over night to cool off,then dig it out of hole or whatever your using and screen it,,i got a old hand crank meat grinder im using,grind it down to a sausage size,lmao,,them im putting in compost pile after i charge it,come planting time it will be well established and it will go on top 3or4 inch of boxes ,that were most garden veggies are anyway,,and over time and adding compost it will go deeper into soil,,i put my clones in it other day when i thought i was gonna lose power,,i had 1 clone with a lot of roots and 3 others that just barely had roots,,all 4 are still alive and the 1 with lots of roots has new growth,,so it works and if im lucky ,by charging the char and it method of holding nutrients in,might even get a way with no feeding at all,,will see,,media base is peat moss,perlite,fresh compost and very little soil,,so will see
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clay has a negative charge..compaction happens in many cases, when we overload clay with cations (+ elements) like mg, na, k, so on. As some of the clays become positive, the net effect is for the previously like particles, to become bound together. Char will help reduce the threat of overloading delicate clay charges by soaking up excess soil cations.
Understand soil is in most of the world, negatively charged. It is this we must maintain, and that aint easy when we have plants wanting to consume soil cations, meaning we must add more + nutrients. Only by knowing the cec capacity of any soil, can you know the limit of cation holding capacity, before we break the system. + to - equals bind, binding drives out oxygen, this kills life like our plants. Dont overload soils with Cations and dont get the issue of compaction, well unless you park a tank on your pots. :-)
 
#219
Organikz said:
I've heard about this stuff. Is it in mitewash. I've heard they have some special electrolyte water.

I just mix the char in a bag of castings then add water and let it sit for a couple weeks.
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We make our own buddy, but by using a base of leonardite typically, so yes i guess it is in Minewash. :-)
Worms are too good to us
 
#220
Ecompost said:
We make our own buddy, but by using a base of leonardite typically, so yes i guess it is in Minewash. :)
Worms are too good to us
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By we I'm assuming you're the owner of a company? Do you have to do a process similar to synthesizing colloidal silver...idk you hear some shit on the net. Sorry to bug ya bro. You have really got me interested. A contact killer is what this sounds like.
 
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