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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

EventHorizan 21,559 Replies 1,779,723 Views
Page 420 of 1078 · Replies 8,381–8,400 of 21,560
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#8,381
90 degree lens brother
Image
Image
Toph420 said:
Sorry bro I don’t mean to correct you and I’m not even sure if I’m right, I just want to make sure I’m not confused.. Do you mean 90 degree reflectors? (Reflector = White/silver round shield vs lense = glass bubble/dome)
Is your light a diy? Or prefab?



What you should do instead of running different brand leds together is maybe run a couple different kelvin of the same brand... example: run some 3000k & some 2000k Crees..

Edit: i think I kind of missed the point of your question.. I personally would keep the veros as a separate fixture if you wanted to build something cheaper to match that Cree light..
Click to expand...
 
#8,382
EventHorizan said:
I could run 600 watts cree on one side and 600 watts vero on the other and test them against each other.
I think 1200 watts cobs would be very efficient and my cooling should be a lot easier. My yields should match this runs hps yields wish said.
No buying bulbs..
I might just make an offer for that light...
Click to expand...
with a sealed room you should at the very least get 1g per watt
you have to run the room a little hotter
about 82f
72f lights out
 
#8,386
Well its my bed time..
Like 2 hrs ago..
We talk more about led cobs tomm night..
Thanks wish..
Your knowledge has always served me well!
Btw our thread hit page 420 today..
:)
 
#8,388
Wisher619 said:
I think that if event pushes his room and maximizes space...with 1200w of COB
sealed room
CO2
he should at least get 1.5 g per w
which should bring him to 4lbs runs
Click to expand...

EventHorizan said:
So i take it that as you approve of that cob setup?
Click to expand...

Gah I need to stop looking at leds for a while.. I just need to get a few more successful runs under my belt then I’ll be lookin at leds haha..

On another note
I think I was running my ppm a bit too low in my dwc setup.. ph was dropping rapidly everyday but the ppm was staying the same.. some dude basically said your plants root zone has more ppm than the water has and your plants are giving nutrients back to equalize the water cause I’m topping off with straight RO.. we’ll see if the guy is right I brought my ppm up close to what cch2o recommends hopefully it fixes it...
 
#8,391
Toph420 said:
Gah I need to stop looking at leds for a while.. I just need to get a few more successful runs under my belt then I’ll be lookin at leds haha..

On another note
I think I was running my ppm a bit too low in my dwc setup.. ph was dropping rapidly everyday but the ppm was staying the same.. some dude basically said your plants root zone has more ppm than the water has and your plants are giving nutrients back to equalize the water cause I’m topping off with straight RO.. we’ll see if the guy is right I brought my ppm up close to what cch2o recommends hopefully it fixes it...
Click to expand...
U need to have a water line or float valve so when you add back your ro you add back exactly as fluid as was used so we can compare the Ec and Ph drop during a 24 hr period..

On second thought just cut your losses and go get the flood tables and the coco.
We find a cheap delivery service for that extra UC equipment you got to help you recoup what you can...
I paid 500 for my UC but mine also came with the factory air pump and water pump which is $250 of the equipment.
We see how cheap i can find a shipper.
Maybe i can get it cheaper if i dont care if it takes a couple weeks to get here...
UC is hard and it requires a good chiller. Its worthless to even try without a good chiller.
Flood and drain is a lot more forgiving esp with pure coco in 1 gal pots..
Prob be a much easier and fruitful outcome when used with cns 17.
Also temps wont be as important in coco as rdwc.. Water temps sooo important in rdwc..
Very expensive to maintain!
 
#8,392
So that csi GSC f1 looks about as close to urkles girl as i see.. Prob have the flavor but i dont know bout the colors..
Purple bud all the way thru the nug with big bright RECESSED orange hairs and no foxtails just has an awe inspiring look too it..
Thiat bud was so purple, you could tell a month into flower..
Purple genetics and nothing to do with environment..


www.thcfarmer.com/community/resources/girl-scout-cookies-f1.928/
 
#8,393
Wisher619 said:
with a sealed room you should at the very least get 1g per watt
you have to run the room a little hotter
about 82f
72f lights out
Click to expand...
When u say run your room a little hotter like 82, you mean veg, veg and first 6 weeks of flower, or do u mean from start to finish?
I ran low 80' this time all the way to about week 7 then i dropped the temp to 77 week 8 and then 73 week 9..
Didnt want it trying to fox tail at the end..
 
#8,394
EventHorizan said:
When u say run your room a little hotter like 82, you mean veg, veg and first 6 weeks of flower, or do u mean from start to finish?
I ran low 80' this time all the way to about week 7 then i dropped the temp to 77 week 8 and then 73 week 9..
Didnt want it trying to fox tail at the end..
Click to expand...
yeah I forgot you did
LEDs need a warmer room as they dont put off direct heat
so the canopy will drop in temp without warmer weather
 
#8,395
EventHorizan said:
U need to have a water line or float valve so when you add back your ro you add back exactly as fluid as was used so we can compare the Ec and Ph drop during a 24 hr period..

On second thought just cut your losses and go get the flood tables and the coco.
We find a cheap delivery service for that extra UC equipment you got to help you recoup what you can...
I paid 500 for my UC but mine also came with the factory air pump and water pump which is $250 of the equipment.
We see how cheap i can find a shipper.
Maybe i can get it cheaper if i dont care if it takes a couple weeks to get here...
UC is hard and it requires a good chiller. Its worthless to even try without a good chiller.
Flood and drain is a lot more forgiving esp with pure coco in 1 gal pots..
Prob be a much easier and fruitful outcome when used with cns 17.
Also temps wont be as important in coco as rdwc.. Water temps sooo important in rdwc..
Very expensive to maintain!
Click to expand...

Not until i see hermage I'm not cutting my loses.. They looked super happy this morning and it only dropped by .1ph.. The past nights it was dropping by .5 or .6 so i feel like i am probably on the right track with raising the ppm. The water level is constant, i have a float valve & my chiller doesn't have a problem bringing it down to 68 or lower (got it down to 62 last round). I know its expensive I've been running it for like 6months straight! lol..
I want to start the flood & drain but i also don't want to jump into it like i did the RDWC.. I want to make sure i know what I'm doing before i do it..

Wisher619 said:
yeah I forgot you did
LEDs need a warmer room as they dont put off direct heat
so the canopy will drop in temp without warmer weather
Click to expand...

Good to know.. So during cold parts of year you might even need a heater?? i wonder what costs more to run a heater or an A/C haha..
 
#8,397
EventHorizan said:
When u say run your room a little hotter like 82, you mean veg, veg and first 6 weeks of flower, or do u mean from start to finish?
I ran low 80' this time all the way to about week 7 then i dropped the temp to 77 week 8 and then 73 week 9..
Didnt want it trying to fox tail at the end..
Click to expand...
Try cfls I hear they work great to bring up heat ;) Plus they also provide the added benefit of putting out a fantastic light spectrum for your plants.
 
#8,399
Why are two of my plants sad pandas? Been like that the past couple days. Two of them have leaves drooping down while the other two plants are perking up. I'm guessing it's been the inconsistency in the lighting since my timer is being a POS?

They're only like an inch tall
 
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