Need Water Basics

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JBloomers123

JBloomers123

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Hi, I recently moved - everything in my soil grow environment is the same so I'm leaning towards my problem being the water >> My girls just don't have that zesty look to life like they did in the old environment. I'm getting constant spotty yellowing and brown edges on the palm leaves and the tops look stunted :( My water is city water so its high in chlorine and the water is hard. My water consistently tests between 8.5 and 9 PH. I'm using General Organics PH Down - I just started using it but I'm not sure of what I'm doing and don't want to find out after the fact that what I'm doing is not helping or even worse - magnifying the problem.

I have found that 1 tablespoon of PH down mixed with 2 gal of water gets my PH to 5.5 - 6.0 - I think that is where I need to be - right? And I've read a few times where the PH is tested AFTER the nutes were added to the water. That's confusing to me.

I understand their is a diff between Alkaline and Alkalinity but I don't know what that is.
I have a 35 gal drum for water storage with an aquarium bubbler at the base with the rationale that it will help remove the chlorine.

What do I need to do to get my water right?
Do I start feeding with Spring Water?
Can I (should I) fix my water problem with other nutrients? if so, which ones?
Currently I use General Organics Biothrive Grow for veg state (with bottled spring water) and Biothrive Bloom for flowering (at this point is where I start using tap water as described above) I've used these nutes for years with great success. With all things being constant in humidity and temps - I've determined its gotta be the water.

I'm not a chemist so this is uncharted territory for me - how do I get up and running on the learning curve?

THANK YOU
 
DemonTrich

DemonTrich

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I would bubble and or let your water sit out overnight before using.

My tap, bubbled after 24hrs is 7.3ph at 70*f. Temp alters ph. I use 1ml ph down per gallon to get 6.4ph.
 
JBloomers123

JBloomers123

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I would bubble and or let your water sit out overnight before using.

My tap, bubbled after 24hrs is 7.3ph at 70*f. Temp alters ph. I use 1ml ph down per gallon to get 6.4ph.
Thank you, I just tested AFTER adding nutes and it measured right around 5 so I left it alone. I had no idea the nutes could change the PH.
 
GT21

GT21

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Thank you, I just tested AFTER adding nutes and it measured right around 5 so I left it alone. I had no idea the nutes could change the PH.
Very few nutes and additives dont change ph... Its why you ph after additions
 
JBloomers123

JBloomers123

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Ok that’s confusing. I tested ph before adding nutes and the PH popped @ 8+. I then tested after adding nutes and it measured around 5.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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Yes nutes will acidify the solution but in buffered potting soil it may not matter. The lime or oyster shell in the mix will bring the ph back up towards 7 automatically.

It is not the ph that is the concern. It is the alkalinity of the water. My well water is 8.0 ph but only .2 ec or 100 ppm mineral content. 150 is said to be ideal and it works best to mix the source water with ro water until the 150 ppm is achieved. You did not say the waters ppm.

Only water that is very hard (alkaline) needs to be acidified. I have read that above 250-300 ppm total mineral content is hard enough to need ph down. And/ or likely need to be filtered for too much mineral content.

I never use it in limed potting soil. It can cause more problems with the medium than fix.

Think of it like this. Hard alkaline water is like adding some lime (calcium) to your pots every watering.

Adding ph down especially phosphorus based every time can acidify the medium and lock out nutrients if in needed.

And plants can uptake in a much wider range of ph than the forums and guides generally state. Ph is said to be the issue on grow problems constantly on the Internet forums. And in water culture (hydro) it matters a lot. But in properly buffered soil it is not usually the problem. Over fertilizing is.
 
JBloomers123

JBloomers123

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43
Yes nutes will acidify the solution but in buffered potting soil it may not matter. The lime or oyster shell in the mix will bring the ph back up towards 7 automatically.

It is not the ph that is the concern. It is the alkalinity of the water. My well water is 8.0 ph but only .2 ec or 100 ppm mineral content. 150 is said to be ideal and it works best to mix the source water with ro water until the 150 ppm is achieved. You did not say the waters ppm.

Only water that is very hard (alkaline) needs to be acidified. I have read that above 250-300 ppm total mineral content is hard enough to need ph down. And/ or likely need to be filtered for too much mineral content.

I never use it in limed potting soil. It can cause more problems with the medium than fix.

Think of it like this. Hard alkaline water is like adding some lime (calcium) to your pots every watering.

Adding ph down especially phosphorus based every time can acidify the medium and lock out nutrients if in needed.

And plants can uptake in a much wider range of ph than the forums and guides generally state. Ph is said to be the issue on grow problems constantly on the Internet forums. And in water culture (hydro) it matters a lot. But in properly buffered soil it is not usually the problem. Over fertilizing is.

I REALLY appreciate the feedback. I think what I'm learning is that for the past 5-7 years i was living on EZ Street with regards to having the perfect water coming from my tap. it was never an issue...clone, root, plant, flower, harvest and repeat without fail. Now that I'm pulling city water it's a totally different ball game. I don't know shit about ppm's, hardness levels, alkaline or alkalinity...yikes. Nutes...I'm using this word Like I know it. Nutes = Ferts? Nutrients = Fertilzers?? oh boy i have much to learn
 
H

hawkman

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for "ph"one can use PH perfect nutrient by advanced nutrients - anyway Have never tested ph on water always used water that has sat for 24 hr. I never had any water related plant issues =- don't so nuts about Keep it Simple
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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I REALLY appreciate the feedback. I think what I'm learning is that for the past 5-7 years i was living on EZ Street with regards to having the perfect water coming from my tap. it was never an issue...clone, root, plant, flower, harvest and repeat without fail. Now that I'm pulling city water it's a totally different ball game. I don't know shit about ppm's, hardness levels, alkaline or alkalinity...yikes. Nutes...I'm using this word Like I know it. Nutes = Ferts? Nutrients = Fertilzers?? oh boy i have much to learn


Here are tons of free pot books.

http://catnews.org/FREE Pot Books/
 
JBloomers123

JBloomers123

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for "ph"one can use PH perfect nutrient by advanced nutrients - anyway Have never tested ph on water always used water that has sat for 24 hr. I never had any water related plant issues =- don't so nuts about Keep it Simple

I like this idea - do u know how PH Perfect compares to GH Flora Grow, Bloom and Micro Combo?

thanks,
 
arb

arb

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Jr peters professional 20-20-20 use at one half teaspoon per gallon of tap water every watering.Get a bale of sunshine mix4 and all you have to worry about is lights and temps/humidity.
This will produce a excellent crop and is very easy to do.
 
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