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Bleached spots on new growth, flowering auto 8 weeks, organic

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Bleached spots on new growth, flowering auto 8 weeks, organic

DudeMcDoodleStein 68 Replies 8,097 Views
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DudeMcDoodleStein

DudeMcDoodleStein

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Does anyone have a sense whats causing this bleaching on my leaves?
 

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Are you using leds? I've had a similar issue with my HLG 550. Looks like your possibly having a light toxicity issue, that might be compounded with other issues like low vpd. Maybe somebody with more auto experience can weight in.
 
Are you using leds? I've had a similar issue with my HLG 550. Looks like your possibly having a light toxicity issue, that might be compounded with other issues like low vpd. Maybe somebody with more auto experience can weight in.
Yes and HLG 135. Thank you, what did you do to remedy your problem?
 
How high are your lights over the top of the plants?
What are you feeding and how often?
 
20 inches, measuring lux/ppfd. I'm at about 680-800 ppfd. Feeding bud bread, molasses, recharge, mammoth P and Neptunes 0-0-1.
This looks like a couple of issues actually. Lets narrow it down. What was your Lux number at the top of the plant?
 
Yes and HLG 135. Thank you, what did you do to remedy your problem?
I raised my LEDs to about 36in, lowered the intensity, I don't have the correct par meter for the HLG, so idk what I'm at but I also threw a cmh 315w in my 4x4x8 tent.
 
About 50k but Ive since lowered it to be back in the 40s which is in the mid to high 600s on the hlg ppfd conversion tool.
If your meter has a range setting, set it for 20k. You should be around 1600 to 2000 lux at the top of your plants. Much less than that and they are not getting enough light.
 
Usung the charts they give you with the lights is a great suggestion to start with, but the plants need is always a bit different and you have to adjust.
 
I see. This is consistent though across most spurces that say 40k or 660 ppfd is perfect for autos through the end of flower. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-use-a-lux-meter-to-increase-your-cannabis-yields-n977

And that seems conservative. No?
That is ... not quite right.
What is a full sun reading on your Lux meter? Full sun at it's highest point during the day? Where I am, it is 94,000 Lux.
It has been shown in the lab that Marijuana can handle full sun, and it's been shown in how many outdoor grows.
However, as you add light, the plant needs a proportionate amount more of water, nutes and anything else you are feeding it.
The practical limit is to give your plants 75% of the amount of the sun. The easier way is to go with 50%.
Strains differ, but between 40% and 60% of the full 94k seems to be the sweet spot for simpler grows.

Your mileage and flavor will vary with the volume of shaking the crushable non-content.
 
That is ... not quite right.
What is a full sun reading on your Lux meter? Full sun at it's highest point during the day? Where I am, it is 94,000 Lux.
It has been shown in the lab that Marijuana can handle full sun, and it's been shown in how many outdoor grows.
However, as you add light, the plant needs a proportionate amount more of water, nutes and anything else you are feeding it.
The practical limit is to give your plants 75% of the amount of the sun. The easier way is to go with 50%.
Strains differ, but between 40% and 60% of the full 94k seems to be the sweet spot for simpler grows.

Your mileage and flavor will vary with the volume of shaking the crushable non-content.
I see. So following that logic 35-45k seems appropriate? Or are you thinking drop it to 20k until it has recovered?
 
I see. So following that logic 35-45k seems appropriate? Or are you thinking drop it to 20k until it has recovered?
It needs light to heal. You are going to use a lot more water when you jack it higher.
Also, I have a feeling your issue is more with your root temps.
Do you have a thermometer you can use on the plants? the long anal kind are the best because you have to stick them deep in the soil for a reading.
A meat thermometer is not super accurate, but it might give enough of a reading to diagnose.
 
It needs light to heal. You are going to use a lot more water when you jack it higher.
Also, I have a feeling your issue is more with your root temps.
Do you have a thermometer you can use on the plants? the long anal kind are the best because you have to stick them deep in the soil for a reading.
A meat thermometer is not super accurate, but it might give enough of a reading to diagnose.
Root/soil temp in middle of pot is 68f.
 
Looks like a lockout.

Nutrient imbalance is probably the cause. Don't add molasses to the soil only teas and you have way to much PK going on.

Reduce the lights flush the crap out of the plant with ph and temp adjusted water... with recharge. 3x the pot volume

then mix up bud bread at 50% the recommended dose and feed. Add cal mag if using RO. Feed 1x the pot volume. Reduce light intensity for 3-5 days by 25-50%.

Drop the molasses, mammoth and Neptune.
 
They also look very dense if you are getting condensate on leaves over night or anytime when the lights come on it will act as a magnifying glass and burn the leaves so if getting condensate or spraying the plants then stop spraying and you may need some defoliation and better airflow.

The condensate will happen where leaves are touching eachother.

Not sure if this is part of it but figured I'd throw it out there for you to look at.
 
We don't foiliar feed because we don't open the tent after lights out, and we don't spray them when the light is on.
It takes 2 minutes to burn your leaves under high power grow lights. Why risk it? We just feed the roots and let them do the uptake.
It's more of a personal preference I guess.
 
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