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Are these too tall/skinny?

  • Thread starter Thread starter WickedMichelle
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Are these too tall/skinny?

WickedMichelle 62 Replies 7,684 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 63
#21
I commented in your other thread about seedling height, they look fine to me but wanted to mention something about red lighting.
Deep and Far Red promotes leaf expansion, stem elongation and increase internode spacing.
Blue keeps plants shorter.

I'm not saying to stop using them, just information I was passing along.

I'm actually waiting on an order of Spider Farmer UV and IR supplement bars to compliment my SE4500. The SE4500 already has some deep red diodes so I didn't purchase the deep red supplement bars, might in the future.
 
#22
Rooke said:
t 5’s are. Sun blasters made for growing and starting plants in imho they keep babies and bedding plants happy without burning them up! Bee using them successfully for years now
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Stock up,
At the end of this year you will find none!
 
#23
Zab said:
You want to water at lights on, and not every day, those peat pots look soaked, You have your light 11" above your plant tops? What are they dimmed at? At 11" I am pretty you will fry those seedlings.
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light is at 25% as recommended for the seed grow. So no deep red yet? Ok... I can live with that. Until I get the times set properly... I have only been using them on my days off. I cannot control them with my phone app.

What about IR and UV? IR 10 min before main lights and UV 10 before lights out.
 
#24
Newty said:
Deep and Far Red promotes leaf expansion, stem elongation and increase internode spacing.
Blue keeps plants shorter.
Click to expand...
Good to know. I bought these extra based on the marketing. Stated it promoted more growth and a few other things. I have been following the schedule recommended but Mars, but seeing I may not need them yet.
 
#26
WickedMichelle said:
light is at 25% as recommended for the seed grow. So no deep red yet? Ok... I can live with that. Until I get the times set properly... I have only been using them on my days off. I cannot control them with my phone app.

What about IR and UV? IR 10 min before main lights and UV 10 before lights out.
Click to expand...
UV I've seen to use the last 3 weeks of flowering, for up to 2 hours per light cycle.
IR 15 mins before on and 15 after off.

If you have wifi, you can get wifi smart plugs and create schedules and turn them on and off remotely. I have a couple Roku smart plugs that I use.

If you ever go to AC Infinity Controller 69, you can get the UIS Outlets and also create schedules and turn them on and off remotely.

WickedMichelle said:
Good to know. I bought these extra based on the marketing. Stated it promoted more growth and a few other things. I have been following the schedule recommended but Mars, but seeing I may not need them yet.
Click to expand...
I wasn't saying not to use them but if you think your plants are getting too tall, maybe just run them for so many hours a day instead of all day.
 
#28
#29
Ackiees said:
Can you raise the light intensity? Like try running 400-500 PPFD and keep an eye on VPD, should see a difference
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Yes, I can increase the light intensity. I am not sure what 400-500 PPFD means. I do not have meters or anything. My main light can go from 10% - 100% light intensity.
 
#30
Newty said:
UV I've seen to use the last 3 weeks of flowering, for up to 2 hours per light cycle.
IR 15 mins before on and 15 after off.
Click to expand...
When I use them, I add them to the 18 hours light on schedule so they get the full 6 hours of night.

I noticed this morning that the plants bent, they were growing toward the deep red and not the main light.

No additive lights today. I will wait for the flower stage... this will give me more time to set and test the timers. I may need to adjust the additive lights, they are on the edge of the main light and I think they are spread out too far.
 
#31
In my opinion, yes they are stretched a bit too much. Sure bury them deeper when you transplant will help. But at the beginning when they pop from ground you should realize the stretch/lanky stem and the rate that it is growing taller. When you do, you should increase intensity to get light closer to the plant until she starts to thicken just below the growth. That tells you she is at the distance she needs from light.
But I am saying you can do a better job at seeing that next time and manage your stretch, and set your light distance according to her stretching at the beginning. You can stop her stretching by giving more light.

Regardless you have/had a low light condition and intensity needs to be brought up.

I saw someone say when the plant grows up to the light she likes the lighting. Thats opposite. When she stretches she needs more and the plant grows up and into the light because she doesn’t have enough. This happens with super low intensity (in the germination wavelengths) regardless of distance she will grow into the light because even the source of light is not as intense as the plant can handle. So she grows into it.
 
#32
WickedMichelle said:
Yes, I can increase the light intensity. I am not sure what 400-500 PPFD means. I do not have meters or anything. My main light can go from 10% - 100% light intensity.
Click to expand...
Download Photone app to measure the light intensity. PPFD is how we measure the light our ladies get, it’s photon density per square foot essentially
 
#35
Ackiees said:
They do charge for certain features, but they have pretty much the entire range of different lights that we might use
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Is it in the google play store? Cannot find it in the Samsung store. I may have to reinstall google play.... I do not put apps on my phone and erased things I do not need. Damn mars hydro made me compromise my values and I installed theirs 🤔 🙀 🤣 🤣
 
#36
I would forget about all that PPFD noise. Learn to read the plant because she knows best, not some range or “optimal” number thrown on the web. Each plant is different.

This is a classic Back to the Basics situation.

If your understanding of stretch and lighting and its correlation is not clear, I wouldn’t venture into specificness of figuring out lux, ppfd, dli, and par. Thats advanced. It’s like trying to explain to someone how red spectrum wavelengths differ from white.

If you didn’t know how humidity and temperature react to one another, I wouldn’t be focusing VPD in my equation of proper temp humidity.
 
#37
Bdubs said:
In my opinion, yes they are stretched a bit too much. Sure bury them deeper when you transplant will help. But at the beginning when they pop from ground you should realize the stretch/lanky stem and the rate that it is growing taller. When you do, you should increase intensity to get light closer to the plant until she starts to thicken just below the growth. That tells you she is at the distance she needs from light.
But I am saying you can do a better job at seeing that next time and manage your stretch, and set your light distance according to her stretching at the beginning. You can stop her stretching by giving more light.

Regardless you have/had a low light condition and intensity needs to be brought up.

I saw someone say when the plant grows up to the light she likes the lighting. Thats opposite. When she stretches she needs more and the plant grows up and into the light because she doesn’t have enough. This happens with super low intensity (in the germination wavelengths) regardless of distance she will grow into the light because even the source of light is not as intense as the plant can handle. So she grows into it.
Click to expand...
This is helpful and I hope not too late. So I should go above the 25% intensity then? Another suggested that as well. I do not want to burn the leaves, how intense can I go without harming the plant?
 
#38
WickedMichelle said:
Is it in the google play store? Cannot find it in the Samsung store. I may have to reinstall google play.... I do not put apps on my phone and erased things I do not need. Damn mars hydro made me compromise my values and I installed theirs 🤔 🙀 🤣 🤣
Click to expand...
🤣🤣🤣 I don’t blame ya on the app thing!

Shucks, it may be just on iOS but I feel bad for not thinking about it lol

What Mars Hydro light and wattage are you running? I’ll see if I can do the math or if there’s any charts online.

I know for my veg tents I pretty much run the lights at like 75% personally but I follow Dr. Bruce Bugbee and his research shows that cannabis can take a SHIT TON more light than what’s generally recommended, varies by cultivar and environment ofc
 
#39
Below 30% intensity you are in germination spectrum. Anywhere between 35-50% at 30” will give you best results imo. With that FC3000 300 watt. Of course, monitor and adjust as needed. Focus mode spacing as she grows and makes new nodes. If it’s super tight, you may want to reduce lighting, if super far node spacing, you can increase it a little. But in my experience, with a similar light rating as you, 35-50% at 30” in primo. The only question is, how tight of nodes do you want. Less intensity for a bit more spacing and higher end of that for tight knit node spacing.
 
#40
Ackiees said:
🤣🤣🤣 I don’t blame ya on the app thing!

Shucks, it may be just on iOS but I feel bad for not thinking about it lol

What Mars Hydro light and wattage are you running? I’ll see if I can do the math or if there’s any charts online.

I know for my veg tents I pretty much run the lights at like 75% personally but I follow Dr. Bruce Bugbee and his research shows that cannabis can take a SHIT TON more light than what’s generally recommended, varies by cultivar and environment ofc
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No worries on the app thing. 👍

This is the kit I purchased. Even with the additive lights it was so much cheaper than the same size with AC Intinity. I wanted the AC as they seem to have a more complete system however the FC3000 lights had the best reviews out of all of the main brands out there.
www.mars-hydro.com

Mars Hydro FC3000-EVO 300W LED Grow Light + 3.3'x3.3' Smart Grow Tent Kits with iControl Smart Controller

www.mars-hydro.com www.mars-hydro.com

I am happy with it so far. Their instructions are basic and customer service minimal. But the parts are good so far.
 
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