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Making Shelf Stable Organic Fertilizer

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Making Shelf Stable Organic Fertilizer

The_Greenist 43 Replies 5,754 Views
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The_Greenist

The_Greenist

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Does anybody have a good tutorial on making shelf stable organic fertilizer base?

My idea is to make tea and "boil" off the excess water then reintroduce micro organisms and seal bottle.

How are shelf stable organic nutes made?
 
Does anybody have a good tutorial on making shelf stable organic fertilizer base?

My idea is to make tea and "boil" off the excess water then reintroduce micro organisms and seal bottle.

How are shelf stable organic nutes made?
Hell this is an awesome question. It would be awesome to make homemade shelf stable organics and definitely somethingI’d get into

FOLLOWING for the answers 🤣
 
Hell this is an awesome question. It would be awesome to make homemade shelf stable organics and definitely somethingI’d get into

FOLLOWING for the answers 🤣

Hell this is an awesome question. It would be awesome to make homemade shelf stable organics and definitely somethingI’d get into

FOLLOWING for the answers 🤣
I have a 16ft fiberglass duck boat just need a good engine for it.

I want to go bow fish carp out of the lakes and break them down in food grade IBC totes full of enzymes.

Maybe get a grant through the dnr?

I'm sure shelf stable organics involve some kind of ph stabilizing processes?
 
Hell this is an awesome question. It would be awesome to make homemade shelf stable organics and definitely somethingI’d get into

FOLLOWING for the answers 🤣
Right. Same here!
 
Right. Same here!
Shelf stable organics must not have any active microbes or it would spoil...right?

I'm thinking about yeast and how it's alive but dormant because lack of moisture.

If you make concentrate from tea, pasteurize it and stabilize the ph it should be good to go.

Have dehydrated microbes you can add after dilution.
 
Have you looked in Korean Natural Farming or Jadam? It might give you a good idea on where to start 🤷‍♂️
Yes I’ve looked at KNF been lookin into it more and more, like with the new 130gallon raised beds in the garden Im following a mix of Hugelkultur and permaculture while feeding fully organic on top of it, just gotta pick up some cover crop atm but those will be my first try at basically no till beds, Izza used to post videos of a YouTube channel called garden like a Viking

He does have some very interesting videos on homemade organic amendments

https://youtube.com/@gardenlikeaviking?si=r9nqA7U2ArWVsDPD


Atm my outdoor veggie garden is a mix organic and permaculture / no till

Always cool to learn shit!
 
Hey, creating a shelf-stable organic fertilizer base is a fascinating challenge, as the goal is to maintain both the nutrient content and the beneficial microorganisms in a form that won’t spoil or degrade over time. Your approach to making a tea and boiling off excess water is a good start, but there are some important factors to consider if you're aiming to create a stable, effective product.
Here’s a breakdown of what you need to consider:
When you mention "boiling off the excess water," you're likely aiming to reduce the volume for ease of storage and use. However, boiling can also kill beneficial microorganisms, which are a key component of organic fertilizers, particularly if you're aiming for a microbial-rich product. Instead of boiling, consider: dehydration or low-heat evaporation: These methods remove water without applying enough heat to kill off microorganisms. Vacuum evaporation: This is an advanced method that allows for the removal of water at lower temperatures, preserving more of the biological activity.
After concentrating the fertilizer, reintroducing microorganisms is key to maintain its organic nature. The question then becomes, how do you ensure the microbes remain viable for a long shelf life? There are a few options: inoculants or microbial powders: These are commercially available and contain dormant microbes that activate when applied to soil or water. Fermentation: If you go the route of fermenting the base after concentration (similar to methods used in compost tea production), you could preserve beneficial microbes while extending the product's shelf life. Fermentation also generates organic acids that act as mild preservatives. Seal the product properly: Once microorganisms are reintroduced, sealing in an airtight, sterile container is critical to prevent contamination and ensure longevity. Some organic fertilizers are bottled in low-oxygen environments to prevent the growth of undesirable anaerobic bacteria.
To maintain shelf stability, you’ll need to consider methods to prevent spoilage: use of natural preservatives: Substances like humic acid, fulvic acid, and molasses not only act as preservatives but also enhance the microbial activity and nutrient uptake of the fertilizer once applied. pH control: Many organic fertilizers are preserved by lowering the pH to a point where harmful bacteria can't grow (around pH 3-4). However, be mindful of how this pH level might affect the plants once applied. Storing in dark, cool conditions: Microbes are sensitive to light and temperature, so ensuring the final product is stored properly will extend its shelf life.
Your fertilizer will need to be tested for nutrient content after processing to ensure that key components, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), remain bioavailable. The dehydration or concentration process can sometimes alter the form of these nutrients, making them less accessible to plants. To counter this: supplement with stabilizing agents: Rock dusts, seaweed extract, or other slow-release organic inputs can help maintain consistency in nutrient delivery over time. Regular stirring/shaking before use: Ensure that your end product is well-mixed before application to prevent nutrient stratification.
Start by testing your process on a small scale. Make batches of your concentrated fertilizer and test how it performs after weeks or months of storage. Check both microbial activity (using microscopy or third-party lab testing) and plant response to the fertilizer. Once you find a method that works well, you can scale it up.
Your approach of boiling off excess water and reintroducing microorganisms is on the right track, but it may benefit from using low-heat dehydration methods and natural preservatives to keep both nutrients and microbes intact. Fermentation, inoculants, pH control, and proper storage can all play a role in creating a shelf-stable organic fertilizer base that works effectively over time. Starting small, testing thoroughly, and refining your process will be key to success. 😁🕉️
 
Yes I’ve looked at KNF been lookin into it more and more, like with the new 130gallon raised beds in the garden Im following a mix of Hugelkultur and permaculture while feeding fully organic on top of it, just gotta pick up some cover crop atm but those will be my first try at basically no till beds, Izza used to post videos of a YouTube channel called garden like a Viking

He does have some very interesting videos on homemade organic amendments

https://youtube.com/@gardenlikeaviking?si=r9nqA7U2ArWVsDPD


Atm my outdoor veggie garden is a mix organic and permaculture / no till

Always cool to learn shit!
I'll have to dig it up, I found an article somewhere detailing "extracts" using KNF processes with sugar and the organic material. When I get home tomorrow I'll find it
 
Here's a few links, I was thinking about going down this rabbit hole at one point, but got drawn into some home breeding, but would be fun to try out at some point






 
Here's a few links, I was thinking about going down this rabbit hole at one point, but got drawn into some home breeding, but would be fun to try out at some point






I agree living organic soil with some differnt knf supplements is fun with awesome results.
 
Hey, creating a shelf-stable organic fertilizer base is a fascinating challenge, as the goal is to maintain both the nutrient content and the beneficial microorganisms in a form that won’t spoil or degrade over time. Your approach to making a tea and boiling off excess water is a good start, but there are some important factors to consider if you're aiming to create a stable, effective product.
Here’s a breakdown of what you need to consider:
When you mention "boiling off the excess water," you're likely aiming to reduce the volume for ease of storage and use. However, boiling can also kill beneficial microorganisms, which are a key component of organic fertilizers, particularly if you're aiming for a microbial-rich product. Instead of boiling, consider: dehydration or low-heat evaporation: These methods remove water without applying enough heat to kill off microorganisms. Vacuum evaporation: This is an advanced method that allows for the removal of water at lower temperatures, preserving more of the biological activity.
After concentrating the fertilizer, reintroducing microorganisms is key to maintain its organic nature. The question then becomes, how do you ensure the microbes remain viable for a long shelf life? There are a few options: inoculants or microbial powders: These are commercially available and contain dormant microbes that activate when applied to soil or water. Fermentation: If you go the route of fermenting the base after concentration (similar to methods used in compost tea production), you could preserve beneficial microbes while extending the product's shelf life. Fermentation also generates organic acids that act as mild preservatives. Seal the product properly: Once microorganisms are reintroduced, sealing in an airtight, sterile container is critical to prevent contamination and ensure longevity. Some organic fertilizers are bottled in low-oxygen environments to prevent the growth of undesirable anaerobic bacteria.
To maintain shelf stability, you’ll need to consider methods to prevent spoilage: use of natural preservatives: Substances like humic acid, fulvic acid, and molasses not only act as preservatives but also enhance the microbial activity and nutrient uptake of the fertilizer once applied. pH control: Many organic fertilizers are preserved by lowering the pH to a point where harmful bacteria can't grow (around pH 3-4). However, be mindful of how this pH level might affect the plants once applied. Storing in dark, cool conditions: Microbes are sensitive to light and temperature, so ensuring the final product is stored properly will extend its shelf life.
Your fertilizer will need to be tested for nutrient content after processing to ensure that key components, like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), remain bioavailable. The dehydration or concentration process can sometimes alter the form of these nutrients, making them less accessible to plants. To counter this: supplement with stabilizing agents: Rock dusts, seaweed extract, or other slow-release organic inputs can help maintain consistency in nutrient delivery over time. Regular stirring/shaking before use: Ensure that your end product is well-mixed before application to prevent nutrient stratification.
Start by testing your process on a small scale. Make batches of your concentrated fertilizer and test how it performs after weeks or months of storage. Check both microbial activity (using microscopy or third-party lab testing) and plant response to the fertilizer. Once you find a method that works well, you can scale it up.
Your approach of boiling off excess water and reintroducing microorganisms is on the right track, but it may benefit from using low-heat dehydration methods and natural preservatives to keep both nutrients and microbes intact. Fermentation, inoculants, pH control, and proper storage can all play a role in creating a shelf-stable organic fertilizer base that works effectively over time. Starting small, testing thoroughly, and refining your process will be key to success. 😁🕉️
I was reading about adding aerobic micro organisms after it is produced so the product won't ferment while sealed, only become biologically active once exposed to air and hydrated.

Looking into alcalse enzyme for breaking down grinded fish carcasses, after hydrolysis the slur is heated to stop the enzymatic reaction.
 
Azotobacter soil inoculation?

You can cut to the chase and wouldn't need cover crops to fixate nitrogen.
 
I male some.oit of egg shells, bannana peel, apple peel etc.... it's tough to get it right. Better off buying gaia green or some much product IMO
 
I male some.oit of egg shells, bannana peel, apple peel etc.... it's tough to get it right. Better off buying gaia green or some much product IMO
Yeah making something is one thing but creating something that is commercially viable is another.

Using some kind of cheap/free input is a start.

Maybe cultivating some k8nd of nitrogen fixating bacteria on expired soda or sweet treats?
 
Compost your nutes in peat moss. Like 1 cup seed meal 1 cup seaweed 1 cup sea creature per cubic foot (7.48 gallons). And no you can't replace crustacean scraps with limestone, you'll be low on phosphorus and chitin.

Extract solubles, bottle.

HELLUR? You just made LIRVIN URGANIC NUR TILL SIRL! And organic nutes that don't stink.


Most organic beds are full of nutes at the bottom and have non up top. This method prevents that. All the "water only" guys are sneaking shit in under that mulch. No idea why most liquid organics smell like a homeless toilet. No one wants that putrified shit.

To keep it alive it needs a little carb and a little protein. Only masturbate on irrigation day and theres your microbial stimulant. Or fill your empty yogurt/kefir bottles with water and pour them on the surface. It's like free bukkashi.
 
I just purchased a kilogram of alcalase enzyme to hydrolyze dry organic amendments.

Let the fun and games begin.
 
Compost your nutes in peat moss. Like 1 cup seed meal 1 cup seaweed 1 cup sea creature per cubic foot (7.48 gallons). And no you can't replace crustacean scraps with limestone, you'll be low on phosphorus and chitin.

Extract solubles, bottle.

HELLUR? You just made LIRVIN URGANIC NUR TILL SIRL! And organic nutes that don't stink.


Most organic beds are full of nutes at the bottom and have non up top. This method prevents that. All the "water only" guys are sneaking shit in under that mulch. No idea why most liquid organics smell like a homeless toilet. No one wants that putrified shit.

To keep it alive it needs a little carb and a little protein. Only masturbate on irrigation day and theres your microbial stimulant. Or fill your empty yogurt/kefir bottles with water and pour them on the surface. It's like free bukkashi.
I run a 4x4 organic bed in a tent. My soil doesn’t have much nutrition in the bottom. It has 2-1/2” of 3/4 rock and sand. Then 5” of my blend + 1/2 part silt and 1/2 part clay. Then 10” of my blend of soil. Then I amend the top and keep a continuous mulch layer going.
 
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