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TGR’s High Elevation Grow Journey

I will say this and it’s maybe just me being green but my liberty haze was dark ass leaves just like this until the starting showing senescence for whatever reason. Could very well be too much n because I was worried about how they were looking the whole...
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TGR’s High Elevation Grow Journey

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I will say this and it’s maybe just me being green but my liberty haze was dark ass leaves just like this until the starting showing senescence for whatever reason. Could very well be too much n because I was worried about how they were looking the whole time lmao
most hazes can be taken through flower at like 2/30/30 ish lol. With hazes and columbians, once stretch is done i drop N to trace amounts unless i start seeing fading lower fans. After wek 5-6 with plants like that im using on calcium and PK boost only. Bigger yields, more resins, better flavors. The plants just arent quite as pretty by finish.


Plants that get real shiny are telling you theres a bit too much calcium nitrate in their regiment, most of the time. Urea N wont make plants shiny, even in N tox, and ammonia can go both ways.
 
I will say this and it’s maybe just me being green but my liberty haze was dark ass leaves just like this until the starting showing senescence for whatever reason. Could very well be too much n because I was worried about how they were looking the whole time lmao
So a huge tell with nitrogen overdose is a shiny leaf what you really kind of want is a more velvet finished to your leaves I would say that 80% of the time nowadays most strains will finish with that bit of a texture on leaf. It’s the shining that is a dead giveaway.
And on top of that, you could go down low on your plant and find a little bullshit stalk,
If it snaps really friggin easy, then that’s a confirmation as well
 
most hazes can be taken through flower at like 2/30/30 ish lol. With hazes and columbians, once stretch is done i drop N to trace amounts unless i start seeing fading lower fans. After wek 5-6 with plants like that im using on calcium and PK boost only. Bigger yields, more resins, better flavors. The plants just arent quite as pretty by finish.
Yeah, if a plant is still wanting N in flower, it’ll definitely let you know, it’s actually becoming more and more common these days it seems like I run into that issue here a lot with some growers
 
Yeah, if a plant is still wanting N in flower, it’ll definitely let you know, it’s actually becoming more and more common these days it seems like I run into that issue here a lot with some growers
Its plants being bred out as indica dom hybriids exclusively under LED lights.


We are inadvertently selecting our lineages to handle greater amount of N, and process nitrates more effectively over time, as well as move around the mobils more effectively


i dont know when ya started capt, but if it was early enough, im sure you remember the days of misplaced calcium nitrate dooming a flower run if used a bit too heavy. Thats largely a thing of the past now though, most plants can eat calcium nitrate up like cocaine now lmao. The hazes and land race sativa lineages often still work with the nitrates like the good ole days though lol.
 
Its plants being bred out as indica dom hybriids exclusively under LED lights.


We are inadvertently selecting our lineages to handle greater amount of N, and process nitrates more effectively over time, as well as move around the mobils more effectively


i dont know when ya started capt, but if it was early enough, im sure you remember the days of misplaced calcium nitrate dooming a flower run if used a bit too heavy. Thats largely a thing of the past now though, most plants can eat calcium nitrate up like cocaine now lmao. The hazes and land race sativa lineages often still work with the nitrates like the good ole days though lol.
Yeah, I used it once upon a time in the way back machine I used it a lot with flood tables, but you know that was more than 20 years ago, my friend,
And as with most tolerances that these plants can put up with these days in terms of the NPK ratios, we have bred these plants to be completely different monsters than what they used to be. That’s why the M 86 can be kind of finicky you know what I mean it’s time capsule shit so it really just has predispositions in it That genetically haven’t been bred out at all yet and haven’t even been a twinkle in that strains eye for shit 20 years in terms of when those seeds first came into existence, as an example
 
Yeah, I used it once upon a time in the way back machine I used it a lot with flood tables, but you know that was more than 20 years ago, my friend,
And as with most tolerances that these plants can put up with these days in terms of the NPK ratios, we have bred these plants to be completely different monsters than what they used to be. That’s why the M 86 can be kind of finicky you know what I mean it’s time capsule shit so it really just has predispositions in it That genetically haven’t been bred out at all yet and haven’t even been a twinkle in that strains eye for shit 20 years in terms of when those seeds first came into existence, as an example
your gonna have some fun taking pure peaceblasters through flower for the first time. The maui's were def some good practice though im sure, so was that oaxaca.

Although, if theres anyone gonna nail a peaceblaster indoor first go itd prob be you. If ya do, youll be the first, myself included lmao. Those plants are bitchy as fuck in flower indoors. Easy high feeding veggers too, so they lul you into a false sense of security for flower, every time lmao. And watch the nitrates, and watch the microclimates. theyre not too fond of either one bit.

They do handle nitrates better in hydro though (at least in DWC they do)
 
@Captspaulding let that peaceblaster structure express a bit before you start bending and tieing and topping btw. Youll be glad ya did once you see it. Let em express a bit and youll find yourself needing far less training with those plants than most. Seriously. The natural peaceblaster structure is truly a thing of beauty if ya let that veg growth mature. out as fast as up
 
As far as the micro climate situation goes terms of watching it what do you mean when I say that what’s the no go zone? There’s gotta be a line if it as finicky as you say.
That being said my main concern at the moment is the two mothers that I have so I won’t have to really sweat them for a hot minute and it’ll give me a good deal of practice to deal with the other six that I have in flower so yeah the good word man I’m down for that and I’m definitely excited
I appreciate that little nod too, man. I’ll definitely give it a whirl. I will say that the Oaxaca was definitely a bit of a test to my meddle.
It came out really good though except the two of the plants did take a bit of a beating early on with a nitrogen sensitivity in early flower
But this is the main reason that I like to do small numbers of plants that I haven’t ran before, and that I haven’t really been able to put a eye on watching other people run here, you know what I mean I like to do that so i can learn a strains eccentricities myself, as well as taking the good word from you so i can complie a but of data, and ensure a definite clean run next time
 
@Captspaulding let that peaceblaster structure express a bit before you start bending and tieing and topping btw. Youll be glad ya did once you see it. Let em express a bit and youll find yourself needing far less training with those plants than most. Seriously. The natural peaceblaster structure is truly a thing of beauty if ya let that veg growth mature. out as fast as up
You know it’s funny that you bring that up dude because I decided like two or three days ago that I was gonna go ahead and wait to top this run,
With all of my strains now, I don’t know if I’m gonna go that route with the LST on the rest of the strains, but I’ll definitely abide that on the peace blaster
 
As far as the micro climate situation goes terms of watching it what do you mean when I say that what’s the no go zone? There’s gotta be a line if it as finicky as you say.
That being said my main concern at the moment is the two mothers that I have so I won’t have to really sweat them for a hot minute and it’ll give me a good deal of practice to deal with the other six that I have in flower so yeah the good word man I’m down for that and I’m definitely excited
I appreciate that little nod too, man. I’ll definitely give it a whirl. I will say that the Oaxaca was definitely a bit of a test to my meddle.
It came out really good though except the two of the plants did take a bit of a beating early on with a nitrogen sensitivity in early flower
But this is the main reason that I like to do small numbers of plants that I haven’t ran before, and that I haven’t really been able to put a eye on watching other people run here, you know what I mean I like to do that so i can learn a strains eccentricities myself, as well as taking the good word from you so i can complie a but of data, and ensure a definite clean run next time
well, the peaceblasters are predominantly an outdoor lineage with recent land race heritage.

They like the entire plant being in the same conditions, it wont be as big of an issue the way your space is setup vs mine. I forget how large your space is.

When your tops are like 83f and the bulk of the plant is like 76 for example, you get transpiration stress up top because the plants arent very good at microclimates. The whole plant will usually want to transpire at the same rate. Their geneology jhas never had to deal with microclimates indoors. Some phenos will def be more sensitive than others too.

its hard in a tent to not have transpiration stress somewhere on a peaceblaster. there always seems to be excessive transpiration somewhere, and under transpiration elsewhere, on the same plants when indoors, while my more modern plants right next to them have no issues with microclimates at all lol.



Edit: Sorry tgr, i thought ive been in the trainwreck lol.
 
well, the peaceblasters are predominantly an outdoor lineage with recent land race heritage.

They like the entire plant being in the same conditions, it wont be as big of an issue the way your space is setup vs mine. I forget how large your space is.

When your tops are like 83f and the bulk of the plant is like 76 for example, you get transpiration stress up top becxause the plants arent very good at microclimates. Their geneology jhas never had to deal with them. Some phenos will def be more sensitive than others too.
Well, that’s all right. I generally run a lot of my lighting equipment pretty low and slow all the way up until late flower then I’ll really start to try to take it up a little bit, but I always kind of have my shit set a little bit low so hopefully I can stay that situation off a little bit just through my general practices I’ve also added an extra carbon scrubber, and I placed it right over top of my light array and right next to where the power supplies are mounted on the wall in order to negate a bit of that heat that likes to hover up a little bit higher it should work really well and keep things comfortably around 75° at the hottest.
 
Well, that’s all right. I generally run a lot of my lighting equipment pretty low and slow all the way up until late flower then I’ll really start to try to take it up a little bit, but I always kind of have my shit set a little bit low so hopefully I can stay that situation off a little bit just through my general practices I’ve also added an extra carbon scrubber, and I placed it right over top of my light array and right next to where the power supplies are mounted on the wall in order to negate a bit of that heat that likes to hover up a little bit higher it should work really well and keep things comfortably around 75° at the hottest.
theyre very interesting plants.

outdoor in ground they can take 10-12 hours direct at like 95-100f with 40% or less humidity long as ya keep the root zone moist. They can stand proud, without even slowing down growth, while most everything else i had would struggle to maintain turgidity at all. So long as you can handle the microclimates, and keep the nutrient regiments dialed in to their taste, those plants are truly unstoppable. Last year they made every other seed i popped look cute for even trying to keep up.

If you can keep the entire plant in the same conditions and properly fed, theyll out perform everything else you have handily, almost guaranteed. Even blue dream genotypes.
 
So a huge tell with nitrogen overdose is a shiny leaf what you really kind of want is a more velvet finished to your leaves I would say that 80% of the time nowadays most strains will finish with that bit of a texture on leaf. It’s the shining that is a dead giveaway.
And on top of that, you could go down low on your plant and find a little bullshit stalk,
If it snaps really friggin easy, then that’s a confirmation as well
I find myself as I learn more and more about dropping the n out and going into my late flower low n feed earlier and earlier. I’m sure I’ll hit the line somewhere but basically where I’m at right now. as they finish stretching I start backing it off until I’m just pk at the very end other than what’s in my cal mag that I use when I drop out the base feed.

And now that I’m thinking about it I haven’t really saw dark ass glossy leaves like that since haha but the liberty haze was quite dark green and glossy in comparison to anything else
 
I find myself as I learn more and more about dropping the n out and going into my late flower low n feed earlier and earlier. I’m sure I’ll hit the line somewhere but basically where I’m at right now. as they finish stretching I start backing it off until I’m just pk at the very end other than what’s in my cal mag that I use when I drop out the base feed.

And now that I’m thinking about it I haven’t really saw dark ass glossy leaves like that since haha but the liberty haze was quite dark green and glossy in comparison to anything else
most hazes and columbians will perform perfectly with calcium nitrate levels in that 1-2% range in flower. Most modern plants want 2-5% or so. But if you even drop below 1% for a couple feedins on calcium these older school sativas like to go mad calcium deficient fast, and without calcium bicarbonate or phosphate, its almost impossible to correct them without sending them into stall right after from N tox.



Depending on the nutrient packages youre using, and the types of calcium you have, that little bit of dark shinyness may be your better road to pursue right now, if ya feel what im getting at here. Without being intimately familiar with your clones 100% yet, and With only nitrate based cal mags on hand, youre other option may be triggering a calcium deficiency that quite literally ruins your harvest end quality. Triggering cal-def in flower on a sativa is a total end quality destroyer. Little bot of extra nitrate just means a slightly harsher smoke, and marginally smaller, if even measurable, yield, so long as its not total N tox.
 
most hazes and columbians will perform perfectly with calcium nitrate levels in that 1-2% range in flower. Most modern plants want 2-5% or so. But if you even drop below 1% for a couple feedins on calcium these older school sativas like to go mad calcium deficient fast, and without calcium bicarbonate or phosphate, its almost impossible to correct them without sending them into stall right after from N tox.



Depending on the nutrient packages youre using, and the types of calcium you have, that little bit of dark shinyness may be your better road to pursue right now, if ya feel what im getting at here. Without being intimately familiar with your clones 100% yet, and With only nitrate based cal mags on hand, youre other option may be triggering a calcium deficiency that quite literally ruins your harvest end quality. Triggering cal-def in flower on a sativa is a total end quality destroyer. Little bot of extra nitrate just means a slightly harsher smoke, and marginally smaller, if even measurable, yield,

most hazes and columbians will perform perfectly with calcium nitrate levels in that 1-2% range in flower. Most modern plants want 2-5% or so. But if you even drop below 1% for a couple feedins on calcium these older school sativas like to go mad calcium deficient fast, and without calcium bicarbonate or phosphate, its almost impossible to correct them without sending them into stall right after from N tox.



Depending on the nutrient packages youre using, and the types of calcium you have, that little bit of dark shinyness may be your better road to pursue right now, if ya feel what im getting at here. Without being intimately familiar with your clones 100% yet, and With only nitrate based cal mags on hand, youre other option may be triggering a calcium deficiency that quite literally ruins your harvest end quality. Triggering cal-def in flower on a sativa is a total end quality destroyer. Little bot of extra nitrate just means a slightly harsher smoke, and marginally smaller, if even measurable, yield, so long as its not total N tox.
Yeah I see what you’re saying. Almost like the lesser of two evils until i understand better how they react.

I’m picking up what your putting down.

Also I just realized this is all in tgrs thread not the train wreck lmao
 
well, the peaceblasters are predominantly an outdoor lineage with recent land race heritage.

They like the entire plant being in the same conditions, it wont be as big of an issue the way your space is setup vs mine. I forget how large your space is.

When your tops are like 83f and the bulk of the plant is like 76 for example, you get transpiration stress up top because the plants arent very good at microclimates. The whole plant will usually want to transpire at the same rate. Their geneology jhas never had to deal with microclimates indoors. Some phenos will def be more sensitive than others too.

its hard in a tent to not have transpiration stress somewhere on a peaceblaster. there always seems to be excessive transpiration somewhere, and under transpiration elsewhere, on the same plants when indoors, while my more modern plants right next to them have no issues with microclimates at all lol.



Edit: Sorry tgr, i thought ive been in the trainwreck lol.
Send that s*** 🤩
 
most hazes and columbians will perform perfectly with calcium nitrate levels in that 1-2% range in flower. Most modern plants want 2-5% or so. But if you even drop below 1% for a couple feedins on calcium these older school sativas like to go mad calcium deficient fast, and without calcium bicarbonate or phosphate, its almost impossible to correct them without sending them into stall right after from N tox.



Depending on the nutrient packages youre using, and the types of calcium you have, that little bit of dark shinyness may be your better road to pursue right now, if ya feel what im getting at here. Without being intimately familiar with your clones 100% yet, and With only nitrate based cal mags on hand, youre other option may be triggering a calcium deficiency that quite literally ruins your harvest end quality. Triggering cal-def in flower on a sativa is a total end quality destroyer. Little bot of extra nitrate just means a slightly harsher smoke, and marginally smaller, if even measurable, yield, so long as its not total N tox.
I took the outdoor line off of the CalMag Pro and gave them Gypsum instead which made them a lot happier. The Hemp Fems hate the nitrate based calcium too.
 
@Thatoneguyyouknow_
@Mikedin
@Captspaulding
@DanielWesterfield

Your beans are departing and should arrive by 6/25. I was able to get through 4 before we lost power. More to come peeps ✌️

Thanks for everyone’s patience with this power fiasco. It’ll be worth it.
 
@Thatoneguyyouknow_
@Mikedin
@Captspaulding
@DanielWesterfield

Your beans are departing and should arrive by 6/25. I was able to get through 4 before we lost power. More to come peeps ✌️

Thanks for everyone’s patience with this power fiasco. It’ll be worth it.
Thanks mate!
Really appreciate your generosity!
Can't wait to grow some out
 
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