THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

[Berniemac]

Nice work, man looks great

Thank you! Still trying to see what’s the best way to dry it, and then seeing what I wanna do with it after lol
Learning as I grow

 

[NisterMice]

Check this. The first pic is 13 days old now:

And today:

And now the nutes are kicking in...

 

[Captspaulding]

Check this. The first pic is 13 days old now:
View attachment 2507315
And today:
View attachment 2507321

And now the nutes are kicking in...

EHxcellent

 

[Captspaulding]

Wrecking trains

 

[Captspaulding]

Thank you! Still trying to see what’s the best way to dry it, and then seeing what I wanna do with it after lol
Learning as I grow

Silicone mat, on a heating pad.

And then.



Form it into tiny hash coins, create your own cash infrastructure like Ricky.

Or smoke it.

 

[ChairmanFester]

I get to make a good old fashioned ghetto garbage can composter! 3:1 magic ratios everywhere!
I finally science babbled dear old mom into the idea so now it's on with some nute making microclimate shit!

 

[ChairmanFester]

Holy shit that’s so funny that you posted that right when I made my comment too wow yeah I’ll hit them up. Might as well it seems like it has been fated in the stars at this point.

If you hook their interest they are solid, established, have young employees who won't balk at science, nation wide distro, support jam bands, and have seed to store down already. Bud if you hook up with them the stars are the limit for the pure science.

 

[Captspaulding]

Get him a patch for it and say "ok, you did it, your plaque is on the wall, your score is on the board, you don't have to do that it's stupid"

I was gonna get him that patch that has an arrow pointed up, that says “I’m with fuckwit”

Yours is waaay better.

 

[Captspaulding]

If you hook their interest they are solid, established, have young employees who won't balk at science, nation wide distro, support jam bands, and have seed to store down already. Bud if you hook up with them the stars are the limit for the pure science.

I’d say I have a solid portfolio
If they waded through the sheer volume of absolute pure unadulterated diaper runoff of this thread. They may even agree.
My next run will have a thread specific to it, I’ll be running another big breed, I have many strains that are dying to get out and make the double backed beast that I’ve been hoarding, and some real killer shit from friends here.
It will be a hootenanny.
That said, I have 5 other old threads that I could compile for them.
I’m always down to science.
I’ll science them fools so damned hard.

 

[Berniemac]

Silicone mat, on a heating pad.

And then.



Form it into tiny hash coins, create your own cash infrastructure like Ricky.

Or smoke it.

let’s say I don’t have a silicone mat, would parchment paper work? And I’m assuming I just want to heat it long enough to be able to mold and form together right? And then storing them what option would be best, individual little wraps or containers, or like balls or coins stacked into a jar? lol they might wanna get stuck together like that I assume lol

Preciate the idea though! Definitely gonna do this !

 

[JIMKSI64]

Thousands of illegal hidden marijuana plants removed from national park along with gun, dangerous chemicals

Rangers removed 2,377 marijuana plants and 2,000 pounds of debris from an illegal operation that damaged 13 acres in Sequoia National Park, California.

www.foxnews.com

 

[Captspaulding]

let’s say I don’t have a silicone mat, would parchment paper work? And I’m assuming I just want to heat it long enough to be able to mold and form together right? And then storing them what option would be best, individual little wraps or containers, or like balls or coins stacked into a jar? lol they might wanna get stuck together like that I assume lol

Preciate the idea though! Definitely gonna do this !

If it is still very tacky and sticky icky I usually toss it on a mat or parchment and stick it in the freezer.
If it’s really dry, I’ll grate the shit with a cheese grater and store it in jars
Or you can hot bottle it and make hash balls.

 

[ChairmanFester]

oooooo this mulch is gonna be titties... I got a packet from the grow store just for starting a microrhyzowhatever in compost. FUCK YES GET IT GET IT PUMP IT FUCK IT DO IT!

 

[Captspaulding]

Aye @MartyMcFly42oh
The riddler.
She’s sexy.
But takes her sweet ass time

 

[Captspaulding]

oooooo this mulch is gonna be titties... I got a packet from the grow store just for starting a microrhyzowhatever in compost. FUCK YES GET IT GET IT PUMP IT FUCK IT DO IT!

You’re really laying some pipe when you dig your mitts elbow deep in that sweet tangy dirt.
Oh god yes.

 

[Florida_Mike]

I was gonna get him that patch that has an arrow pointed up, that says “I’m with fuckwit”

Yours is waaay better.

Glad your boy's ok Capt.
I have no clue how I even
made it to 18, which was
the drinking age back then.

Too many near deaths to
count. Never alcohol poisoning
though...

 

[Putthataway]

Good morning. I asked ai why it was so tarded. It asked tarded ? It’s so tarded it doesn’t even know it’s tarded or the definition of tarded. What a tard.

 

[Putthataway]

 

[Putthataway]

 

[Ninjadogma]

What you’re building (at a glance)​

• A 30"×30" plywood “deck” that bolts to a commercial can dolly.
• A square EMT-conduit frame (84" tall) bolted to that deck.
• Walls/roof skinned with welded wire mesh.
• A full-height hinged door.
• Three internal training levels (net or wire ring) at ~18", ~36", ~54".
• Low-mounted ballast so it doesn’t tip when you roll it.

---

Materials (Home-Depotable + Amazonable)​

Frame & base

• 1" EMT conduit (10' sticks): 8 sticks (you’ll have extra).
• Maker Pipe (or equivalent EMT clamp system)
  • 90° connectors: 8 (top corners + mid braces)
  • T-connectors: 8 (door frame & mid-rails)
  • Wall/“flange” mounts: 4 (to anchor corner posts to deck)
  • Hinge kit + latch kit: 1 each (or 2 stainless strap hinges + 1 spring latch).
• 3/4" exterior plywood: 1 sheet, cut to 30"×30".
• 1/4"×2" lag screws + washers: 16 (to mount flanges to deck).
• 5/16"-18 through-bolts, fender washers, nyloc nuts: 5–8 (to bolt deck to dolly—see base notes).

Wire & training

• Welded wire mesh, galvanized, 2"x4" grid, 14–16 ga, 36" wide rolls: ~40 ft total (walls + roof).
  (36" width lets you skin sides in two courses with a small overlap.)
• Stainless zip ties or 14 ga galvanized wire: 100+.
• Trellis net (elastic 3.5" squares) or 1/8" galvanized clothesline cable + turnbuckles for rigid “rings”.
• (Optional) 1/8" aluminum flat bar (door edge stiffener) 72": 1.

Mobility & stability

• Can dolly (round or square; locking casters preferred). If round, think BRUTE 2640-style. Rubbermaid Commercial Products
• Ballast: two 25–35 lb sandbags (or two 12" concrete pavers) strapped low to the frame.
• 4× rubber leveling feet or thin horse-stall mat scraps (to kill deck vibration/creep on the dolly).

Plant area

• 16–20" plant saucer + risers.
• 4× stainless eye bolts (deck corners) for LST tie-downs.

---

Cut list (EMT)​

• Verticals (x4): 84"
• Top square (x4): 30"
• Mid-rails @ ~36" (x4): 30"
• Door frame:
  • Hinge side vertical: 78"
  • Latch side vertical: 78"
  • Top/bottom rails: 24" each
    (Final door opening ≈ 24"W × 78"H inside a 30" bay; you keep 3" each side for posts/hardware.)

---

Build steps​

1) Make the rolling deck​

1. Deck: Cut plywood 30"×30". Seal edges (poly or exterior paint).
2. Locate dolly interface:
   • For a round BRUTE-style 18.2" dolly, center it under the deck. Mark 5–8 evenly spaced bolt locations on the dolly’s outer ring where material is thick.
   • Pilot drill the dolly with 3/16" (go slow—structural foam/plastic). Match-drill deck 5/16".
   • Through-bolt with 5/16" bolts + big fender washers top/bottom + nylocs. Do not overtighten (crush risk).
     (This is the most secure, lowest-profile method—no straps dragging near casters.) Rubbermaid Commercial Products (.com)
3. Stick thin rubber pads between deck and dolly before tightening to kill slip/creak.

2) Stand the frame​

1. Corner flanges: Layout 4 flange mounts on deck, inset 2" from each edge (gives 26" inside clear + wire skin thickness). Lag-screw them down.
2. Install 4 vertical EMT posts (84") into the flanges.
3. Top square: Use four 90° connectors to add 30" rails around the top, making a rigid cube.
4. Mid-rails (~36" high): Add 30" rails on all four sides with T-connectors—this stiffens the frame and supports your mid trellis.

3) Door & latch​

1. Use the front opening between posts for the door. Assemble a 24"×78" EMT rectangle with T’s & 90’s. Skin it with mesh (see below).
2. Hinge the door to the left front post (hinge kit or two strap hinges around the EMT). Add a spring latch or cane-bolt on the right.

4) Skin it with wire​

1. Walls: Wrap 36"-wide welded wire vertically. Each side is 84" tall, so run two courses (e.g., 48" + 40") with a 2" overlap at the middle rail. Tie every 4–6" along rails and posts.
2. Roof: Cut a 30"×30" mesh panel and zip-tie to the top rails. This is your tie-up grid for colas.
3. Door panel: Skin the door frame with mesh; fold edges and tie neatly. Add the aluminum flat bar along the latch side if you want extra stiffness.

5) Training levels & tie-downs​

1. SCROG Level 1 @ ~18", Level 2 @ ~36", Level 3 @ ~54":
   • Fastest: stretch trellis net to the inside of the frame, zip-tie.
   • Cleanest: run 1/8" galvanized cable perimeter with corner eye-bolts + tiny turnbuckles and weave nylon line to make a rigid grid.
2. Deck eye-bolts: Install one at each deck corner for low-stress LST ties.

6) Ballast & safety​

1. Strap two 25–35 lb sandbags to the lower posts (front/back). This dramatically raises the tip threshold when rolling across thresholds or rough ground.
2. If your dolly doesn’t have locking casters, wedge simple wheel chocks or add two lockable caster swaps.

---

Dimensions & clearances​

• Overall: 30"×30"×84" (add ~1" for mesh).
• Door: ~24"W × 78"H clear.
• Dolly footprint: many round bases are ~18" Ø, so the deck overhangs ≈ 6" per side. That’s fine—ballast fixes the lever arm.

---

Load & stability reality check​

• Wet 7–10 gal fabric pot: ~35–55 lb.
• Frame + mesh + deck + hardware: ~45–65 lb.
• Ballast (recommended): +50–70 lb.
• Total rolling mass: ~130–190 lb ⇒ well inside a conservative 250 lb dolly rating. (If you buy a 350–500 lb unit, even more margin.) Rubbermaid Commercial ProductsShopAtDeanVevor

Rules of the road:

• Move slow on flat floors. Don’t side-load curbs/thresholds; pull straight over.
• Keep ballast low. If you hang stuff up high (fans, lights), add more ballast down low.
• If it will live near a wall, consider a simple wall leash (light strap) as an anti-tip anchor.

---

Options & upgrades​

• “No drill” variant: Build a 18–18.5" round plywood puck screwed under the deck that nests into a round dolly’s pocket, then use four 1" cam straps around the dolly’s perimeter and deck. It works, but through-bolts are cleaner and lower profile.
• Unistrut version (heavier, bomb-proof): Swap EMT for 1-5/8" strut + corner gussets; bolt it straight to the deck. It’s overkill but glorious.
• Removable panels: Split each side’s mesh into two panels and secure with shower-curtain snap rings. Panels lift off for grooming/defol.
• Drain control: Line the deck under the saucer with a cut scrap of pond liner or a 30" spill tray.
• Tool mounts: Magnetic strip or hose clamps on posts for snips, pH pen, etc.

---

Quick cost ballpark (very rough, US big-box)​

• EMT + connectors + hinges/latch: $120–$200 (EMT is cheap; connectors drive this).
• Mesh + ties/wire: $50–$90.
• Plywood + bolts/lag screws/finish: $60–$100.
• Dolly/base: $45–$120 depending on model/brand. The Home Depot
• Ballast: $10–$30 (play sand) or free if you have pavers.

Call it $200

I built the kludgiest thing I could think of on the fly when I had rats running off with whole bud branches in the middle of the night over the winter. I didn't throw a lot of money at it because I'd been spending a lot of money on other weed related shit at the time. I started doing the math on the building materials and at the end of the day I'd probably have been better off buying myself a 4x6x5 high canine kennel or something.

But this got the gears in the brain turning to build something that could even be convertible, put it on wheels and move it indoors, and how about this, a grow tent skin designed to fit perfectly around it

What you’re building (at a glance)​

• A 30"×30" plywood “deck” that bolts to a commercial can dolly.
• A square EMT-conduit frame (84" tall) bolted to that deck.
• Walls/roof skinned with welded wire mesh.
• A full-height hinged door.
• Three internal training levels (net or wire ring) at ~18", ~36", ~54".
• Low-mounted ballast so it doesn’t tip when you roll it.

---

Materials (Home-Depotable + Amazonable)​

Frame & base

• 1" EMT conduit (10' sticks): 8 sticks (you’ll have extra).
• Maker Pipe (or equivalent EMT clamp system)
  • 90° connectors: 8 (top corners + mid braces)
  • T-connectors: 8 (door frame & mid-rails)
  • Wall/“flange” mounts: 4 (to anchor corner posts to deck)
  • Hinge kit + latch kit: 1 each (or 2 stainless strap hinges + 1 spring latch).
• 3/4" exterior plywood: 1 sheet, cut to 30"×30".
• 1/4"×2" lag screws + washers: 16 (to mount flanges to deck).
• 5/16"-18 through-bolts, fender washers, nyloc nuts: 5–8 (to bolt deck to dolly—see base notes).

Wire & training

• Welded wire mesh, galvanized, 2"x4" grid, 14–16 ga, 36" wide rolls: ~40 ft total (walls + roof).
  (36" width lets you skin sides in two courses with a small overlap.)
• Stainless zip ties or 14 ga galvanized wire: 100+.
• Trellis net (elastic 3.5" squares) or 1/8" galvanized clothesline cable + turnbuckles for rigid “rings”.
• (Optional) 1/8" aluminum flat bar (door edge stiffener) 72": 1.

Mobility & stability

• Can dolly (round or square; locking casters preferred). If round, think BRUTE 2640-style. Rubbermaid Commercial Products
• Ballast: two 25–35 lb sandbags (or two 12" concrete pavers) strapped low to the frame.
• 4× rubber leveling feet or thin horse-stall mat scraps (to kill deck vibration/creep on the dolly).

Plant area

• 16–20" plant saucer + risers.
• 4× stainless eye bolts (deck corners) for LST tie-downs.

---

Cut list (EMT)​

• Verticals (x4): 84"
• Top square (x4): 30"
• Mid-rails @ ~36" (x4): 30"
• Door frame:
  • Hinge side vertical: 78"
  • Latch side vertical: 78"
  • Top/bottom rails: 24" each
    (Final door opening ≈ 24"W × 78"H inside a 30" bay; you keep 3" each side for posts/hardware.)

---

Build steps​

1) Make the rolling deck​

1. Deck: Cut plywood 30"×30". Seal edges (poly or exterior paint).
2. Locate dolly interface:
   • For a round BRUTE-style 18.2" dolly, center it under the deck. Mark 5–8 evenly spaced bolt locations on the dolly’s outer ring where material is thick.
   • Pilot drill the dolly with 3/16" (go slow—structural foam/plastic). Match-drill deck 5/16".
   • Through-bolt with 5/16" bolts + big fender washers top/bottom + nylocs. Do not overtighten (crush risk).
     (This is the most secure, lowest-profile method—no straps dragging near casters.) Rubbermaid Commercial Products (.com)
3. Stick thin rubber pads between deck and dolly before tightening to kill slip/creak.

2) Stand the frame​

1. Corner flanges: Layout 4 flange mounts on deck, inset 2" from each edge (gives 26" inside clear + wire skin thickness). Lag-screw them down.
2. Install 4 vertical EMT posts (84") into the flanges.
3. Top square: Use four 90° connectors to add 30" rails around the top, making a rigid cube.
4. Mid-rails (~36" high): Add 30" rails on all four sides with T-connectors—this stiffens the frame and supports your mid trellis.

3) Door & latch​

1. Use the front opening between posts for the door. Assemble a 24"×78" EMT rectangle with T’s & 90’s. Skin it with mesh (see below).
2. Hinge the door to the left front post (hinge kit or two strap hinges around the EMT). Add a spring latch or cane-bolt on the right.

4) Skin it with wire​

1. Walls: Wrap 36"-wide welded wire vertically. Each side is 84" tall, so run two courses (e.g., 48" + 40") with a 2" overlap at the middle rail. Tie every 4–6" along rails and posts.
2. Roof: Cut a 30"×30" mesh panel and zip-tie to the top rails. This is your tie-up grid for colas.
3. Door panel: Skin the door frame with mesh; fold edges and tie neatly. Add the aluminum flat bar along the latch side if you want extra stiffness.

5) Training levels & tie-downs​

1. SCROG Level 1 @ ~18", Level 2 @ ~36", Level 3 @ ~54":
   • Fastest: stretch trellis net to the inside of the frame, zip-tie.
   • Cleanest: run 1/8" galvanized cable perimeter with corner eye-bolts + tiny turnbuckles and weave nylon line to make a rigid grid.
2. Deck eye-bolts: Install one at each deck corner for low-stress LST ties.

6) Ballast & safety​

1. Strap two 25–35 lb sandbags to the lower posts (front/back). This dramatically raises the tip threshold when rolling across thresholds or rough ground.
2. If your dolly doesn’t have locking casters, wedge simple wheel chocks or add two lockable caster swaps.

---

Dimensions & clearances​

• Overall: 30"×30"×84" (add ~1" for mesh).
• Door: ~24"W × 78"H clear.
• Dolly footprint: many round bases are ~18" Ø, so the deck overhangs ≈ 6" per side. That’s fine—ballast fixes the lever arm.

---

Load & stability reality check​

• Wet 7–10 gal fabric pot: ~35–55 lb.
• Frame + mesh + deck + hardware: ~45–65 lb.
• Ballast (recommended): +50–70 lb.
• Total rolling mass: ~130–190 lb ⇒ well inside a conservative 250 lb dolly rating. (If you buy a 350–500 lb unit, even more margin.) Rubbermaid Commercial ProductsShopAtDeanVevor

Rules of the road:

• Move slow on flat floors. Don’t side-load curbs/thresholds; pull straight over.
• Keep ballast low. If you hang stuff up high (fans, lights), add more ballast down low.
• If it will live near a wall, consider a simple wall leash (light strap) as an anti-tip anchor.

---

Options & upgrades​

• “No drill” variant: Build a 18–18.5" round plywood puck screwed under the deck that nests into a round dolly’s pocket, then use four 1" cam straps around the dolly’s perimeter and deck. It works, but through-bolts are cleaner and lower profile.
• Unistrut version (heavier, bomb-proof): Swap EMT for 1-5/8" strut + corner gussets; bolt it straight to the deck. It’s overkill but glorious.
• Removable panels: Split each side’s mesh into two panels and secure with shower-curtain snap rings. Panels lift off for grooming/defol.
• Drain control: Line the deck under the saucer with a cut scrap of pond liner or a 30" spill tray.
• Tool mounts: Magnetic strip or hose clamps on posts for snips, pH pen, etc.

---

Quick cost ballpark (very rough, US big-box)​

• EMT + connectors + hinges/latch: $120–$200 (EMT is cheap; connectors drive this).
• Mesh + ties/wire: $50–$90.
• Plywood + bolts/lag screws/finish: $60–$100.
• Dolly/base: $45–$120 depending on model/brand. The Home Depot
• Ballast: $10–$30 (play sand) or free if you have pavers.

Call it $200

Wow man that is a lot of detail to digest for a good rebuild, thanks! So the back story is we had a rat problem going on in the neighborhood when I was doing a winter grow. So after losing a whole branch one night, I had a Popeye moment: That's all I can stands, I can't stands no more! And so noodled an idea for a quick fix that I think only set me back about $150 in materials.