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Slowly withering Away... any ideas???

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Slowly withering Away... any ideas???

dangles 24 Replies 1,540 Views
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dangles

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#1
This plant was growing fine for about 4 weeks. Suddenly the leaves starting getting skinny and curling downwards. The older leaves started to get brown spots and yellowing. The 1st pic i took when I started to realize this wasn't going to work itself out. The 2nd pic shows the plant 3 days later after the 1st pic. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Peace and Love friends.
 

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#6
Bigalmoby said:
what and how often are you feeding and what dirt is that in there ?
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i use jacks 20-10-20 and am using Dr. Bugbee's magical mix of peat and vermiculite mixed with lime and gypsum. Typically gets a daily feed of around 1/4 to 1/2 gallon, watching for amount of runoff coming through the fabric pot
 
#7
Peat and vermiculite both hold moisture and feeding / watering every day not good
You going to have problems with the soil not drying back
I’m no pro here but someone with more knowledge will chime in
But over watered over fed and wrong soil is a bad combo
 
#10
LoveGrowingIt said:
@dangles - What are the temperature and humidity? VPD? Light intensity?

That plant looks very stressed with several problems. I'd probably start my reducing the light intensity and the nutrients and letting the root zone dry back.
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light is at 100% intensity temp usually around 85 humidity 65 and VPD around 1.50. I shall dial back the light, i have let the plant completely dry out since my 1st instinct was it was overwatered
 
#12
dangles said:
light is at 100% intensity temp usually around 85 humidity 65 and VPD around 1.50. I shall dial back the light, i have let the plant completely dry out since my 1st instinct was it was overwatered
Click to expand...
I had a power problem with one of my tents and the control plugs for heat and humidity didn't shut off. When I checked the tent, the environment inside was like a tropical forest. The plants looked a lot like yours. I recommend lowering the heat to the high 70s and the humidity to the mid to low 50s. I also recommend running the VPD at about 1.2.
 
#13
Week4Bytch said:
If your feeding every day and it looks like that, lockout. what's the pH of your feed solution? Soil might be drenched like mentioned above, roots need to breath.
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The pH of the solution is about 7.3. I suspected overwatering and didnt water for a couple days. When I finally did water, the runoff off came out very brown. Not sure if thats normal or telling of anything
 
#14
So for better or worse.... I scratched the top layer of media and added some peat... mixed that in best i could. I turned the light intensity down to 70%. I poured clean water through the pot until i was getting a reading of 6.3 on my pH meter (testing the runoff). The light intensity reduction should lower tent temp and i reduced the humidity to 60%.

At this point not sure it's even worth saving and I'll likely just get another one going, but definitely want to learn from this if i can.
 
#15
This is generic feedback but when you get mid plant yellowing it's usually excess salt triggering a deficiency.

Next time you water, pour slowly and evenly working with about 8 ounces at a time and waiting a minute between pours, then after at least 8 ounces of water have flowed out, collect some of the water flowing out and stick an EC pen in it. If it reads higher than 1400 ppm or 2.8 EC, keep pouring 8 ounce increments until it comes down to that. The reason you really really gotta work slow especially in soil is you don't that water to fall through the soil. That's what creates channeling, uneven displacement of nutrients and washing your beneficial microbes and mycos away. You want that water gently seeping it's way to the bottom so that it's mainly just taking out the excess ionized minerals.
 
#16
dangles said:
The pH of the solution is about 7.3. I suspected overwatering and didnt water for a couple days. When I finally did water, the runoff off came out very brown. Not sure if thats normal or telling of anything
Click to expand...
Since your feeding the plant directly... I'd drop that pH to 5.8 abouts. A quick google will tell you why.
 
#17
Ninjadogma said:
This is generic feedback but when you get mid plant yellowing it's usually excess salt triggering a deficiency.
Click to expand...
That high pH of 7.3 will cause deficiencies, as well. That's a good point, though. I'll try to keep that in mind, even though I don't use that type of nutrients.

dangles said:
At this point not sure it's even worth saving and I'll likely just get another one going but definitely want to learn from this if I can.
Click to expand...
It's probably worth saving. These plants recover well once everything gets dialed in. Recovering a plant is also a great learning opportunity. It looks like you have enough room to start another, though, so I can't think of any reason not to start another.
 
#18
LoveGrowingIt said:
That high pH of 7.3 will cause deficiencies, as well. That's a good point, though. I'll try to keep that in mind, even though I don't use that type of nutrients.


It's probably worth saving. These plants recover well once everything gets dialed in. Recovering a plant is also a great learning opportunity. It looks like you have enough room to start another, though, so I can't think of any reason not to start another.
Click to expand...

At above 7.0 you lose manganese and iron but you're not gonna see burnt tips on your leaves from that. The brown spotting could be manganese, would certainly fit a 7+ environment, the drying and curling with yellow that's more a potassium thing. The high ph is likely a secondary problem to the salt. When you are watering down the salts you can pH adjust your input to 6.1 and that should bring your output down below 7 for a happier number and better uptake. When you're done you can do a final pour of water with some kelp seaweed to sooth the roots after the abuse and help aid in recovery. You got this.
 
#19
Lime has really screwed the soil I believe, and is Likely why the Ph is so high. Don’t know how to reduce it though, maybe flushing could do it? If it’s dolomite I believe the mag calcium ratios are out of whack and causes lock out.
 
#20
Ninjadogma said:
At above 7.0 you lose manganese and iron but you're not gonna see burnt tips on your leaves from that. The brown spotting could be manganese, would certainly fit a 7+ environment, the drying and curling with yellow that's more a potassium thing. The high ph is likely a secondary problem to the salt. When you are watering down the salts you can pH adjust your input to 6.1 and that should bring your output down below 7 for a happier number and better uptake. When you're done you can do a final pour of water with some kelp seaweed to sooth the roots after the abuse and help aid in recovery. You got this.
Click to expand...
Well... According to Bruce Bugbee, all macronutrients become less soluble in alkalinity. Otherwise, because I don't grow with salts, I can't comment intelligently.

RGWD0202 said:
Lime has really screwed the soil I believe, and is Likely why the Ph is so high. Don’t know how to reduce it though, maybe flushing could do it? If it’s dolomite I believe the mag calcium ratios are out of whack and causes lock out.
Click to expand...
The medium was amended with both lime and gypsum, which I haven't seen before. That seems like it would be a lot of calcium. So, yes. Lockout seems a likely possibility.
 
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