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Hi rh butt stupid or time to break some myths.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jalisco Kid
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Hi rh butt stupid or time to break some myths.

Jalisco Kid 62 Replies 10,567 Views
Page 1 of 4 · Replies 1–20 of 63
J

Jalisco Kid

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#1
Well since this got me into a bit of crap I figure it is a good subject to bring up. I am only advocating this in a room I designed, I do not care to go on vacation again for giving out bad growing advice. I am a firm believer in high rh in a well made room. Willing to listen how/why I am wrong. Suerte JK
 
#2
Yo no se. Por que tu eres incorrectamente?

I totally get the bud rot thing and hope to never experience it. However, this last run over winter I just could not get my room's RH down. I have come to the conclusion that it is that high RH (couldn't get it below 60%, stayed usually around 70% and some days was so high I had condensation everywhere) that prevented the Borg from establishing themselves in the flowering room even though they'd gotten a good foothold in my veg-table.

So... are you saying that you get put on time out if you give growing advice someone doesn't agree with, or what?
 
#3
this is something for sure I want discussed. I need more tips (Edit: on running high rh) because I know it is being done with great results

I have wanted to dial this in since first reading both your (JK) and Janus's posts

I tried and only failed due to PM, but now with eagle20 I have eradicated my pm troubles....the growth was phenomenal with high humidity for sure, and foliar feeding seemed to be more effective when the humidity was above 60%, I have no way to prove or disprove the foliar thing though, seemed to be true though

and I think since I am getting ready to run straight perlite now and not dwc or rdwc I should be able to manage
 
#4
Not all PM species require high RH, either. Either last year or the year before I got some girls gifted to me that had PM. My answer for almost all troubles, if I can, is to stick 'em outside under the sun and into nature to let Her do Her thing. The PM stayed. RH outside at that time was around 30%. So I treated, and did some research (btw, it was Soya'nara that did the trick for me) and learned that it's not always a RH thing with PM.

I'm getting ready to do a straight perlite run OD this year. I just need to get the borked girls to stop trying to flower.
 
#7
My basement is carved out of bedrock - 60-65% humidity year round without plants transpiring ... Constant air exchange is key!
 
#9
Welcome back JK, thanks for coming back. I get good growth @ 70 RH in veg but always go back to 50 in flower for fear of mold/rot. Im interested as well
 
#12
Along with the constant humidity, I also have consistent cool temps - never above 65' under the hottest August sun. I have considered going sealed, but then I would have heat to contend with and the added cost of C02.

To me, it is more economical and in my favour to deal with 65' ambient with the higher humidity. Maybe I have been lucky over the years but I have only had one brush with PM - a small blue moonshine that was tucked in a corner my very first run. Switched to 24 exhaust and better circulation and have not had a relapse since.

I just increased my space a little recently to 7x6x6 to accomodate a stretchy wild Brazilian. Stripped lights of hoods and hung vertical. 400MH, 430 Agro and 600 Sont T with 420 CFM changing air just over once a minute - plants are loving it!

In retrospect, all my best sativa's have thrived under these conditions, but then again the tropics can get very humid can't they?

Oh - and GREAT to see you back friend ;)
 
#13
convex said:
My basement is carved out of bedrock - 60-65% humidity year round without plants transpiring ... Constant air exchange is key!
Click to expand...

My experiences would make me inclined to agree with convex, while high RH may very well be attributed to bud rot i feel 'stale' air is a higher risk than high RH alone, i regularly see 70% or higher but as long as i maintain a regular throughput of air i dont run into issues. ive only ever had mould form once with the previous fan that i owned which was inadequate for the size of my room, i saw the same (more or less) RH as i do now but since i started using an appropriately sized RVK i have had no issues.
Also i understand using biological nutrients is a good way to increase the plants natural defences against mould, so bio coupled with high RH + high air though put may be benefitial, almost certainly during veg, however i still try to minimize RH just in case, unless you know exactly what your doing this would seem a very dangerouse game to play for the sake of a little extra growth.
surely if you were going for a high RH grow a sealed room would be the last thing you want to do?? interested to see where the logic lies in that fellas.

good point about the sativas thriving, i often overlook were these plants originally came from..

Peace
 
#14
wb JK. I remember a friend of mine sweared that big plants need 70+ rh to function perfectly. He told me that if it is lower the plant will use too much energy to keep up her own humidity level. This energy can be used for weight. Anyway what about an sylphyr burner some some uv lights? Look in jacks 60+ undercurrent room. he uses some uv too.
 
#16
Seamaiden said:
....

So... are you saying that you get put on time out if you give growing advice someone doesn't agree with, or what?
Click to expand...


lol yea what she said....

but interesting thread to say the least.....


i've always tried to stay away from high humidity as cuz that is what we are taught.... yanno the usual it causes PM and all kinds of shit.... however i will say that im guilty for not doing controlled experiments to see for myself like i normally do....

however like SM said, PM can come from other things as well judging from self experiments as per her.


with that said.... i've had to deal with humidity in the 50-very high 60% rh.... and i almost shit my pants..... however i didnt get any PM...and im apt to blv this was due to massive air exchange and air flow in my tent
 
#17
Welcome back JK.

For all the people still in doubt about Humidity, look at biodomes, greenhouses, tropical rain forests. Hell go to Veags and see the gardens there. All high humidity with no problems. Key is NO stagnate air, use lots of air movement.

I am assembling my room and can't wait to finally get the humidity UP where it belongs to get the growth out of the plants.

pp69
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
#18
The reason was growth really not pm was the problem I was "rotting people's brains". Pm I control with sulfur burns. In all my vents between runs,2 weeks before the flip and 2 weeks after. I am running below 50% right now and my plants are really suffering. My humidifiers crapped out at the same time.Now I will be putting out some humidifiers with my other tanks. I made a nice humidifier out of necessity. Need to build another one for my room. I'll post pics. JK
 
#19
JK I have been playing around with room conditions in my area, and since it is so dry (rh around 20-25%) I can see pretty immediate and drastic results in plants when I create fluctuations.

I started playing around more after reading an article on vapor pressure deficit (vpd) and all the corresponding factors (leaf temp, room temp, rh, etc) ... with that logic and finding an ideal range of transpiration is anything above 60-65% as effective as it can be? For that range IMO to not hinder the rest of the factors, room temp, leaf temp, air flow etc must be pretty ideal. No?

Currently I am trying to maintain around 55-60% rh with room temps in the 76-79 range. Don't think my temp gun is precise enough to check leaf temps, but things seem to be in range for ideal vpd....and results have been phenomenal compared to running the room without mods at 25-30% rh. Many of the micro diffiencies as well as PM (yes from a dry room with too much air flow) are falling back in place and getting in check.

Also with the raise in rh, you can more easily control higher temps in the room. My 81 degree room dropped to 78-79 when i added about 30% humidity. The 70% range will be too high for my room to keep things in check and ideal, but the high 50's low 60's seems to be ideal. I am sure now that its consistently in that range my yields will start to show great improvement...
 
#20
I so need to get my room warmed up somehow.
convex said:
Along with the constant humidity, I also have consistent cool temps - never above 65' under the hottest August sun. I have considered going sealed, but then I would have heat to contend with and the added cost of C02.

To me, it is more economical and in my favour to deal with 65' ambient with the higher humidity. Maybe I have been lucky over the years but I have only had one brush with PM - a small blue moonshine that was tucked in a corner my very first run. Switched to 24 exhaust and better circulation and have not had a relapse since.

I just increased my space a little recently to 7x6x6 to accomodate a stretchy wild Brazilian. Stripped lights of hoods and hung vertical. 400MH, 430 Agro and 600 Sont T with 420 CFM changing air just over once a minute - plants are loving it!

In retrospect, all my best sativa's have thrived under these conditions, but then again the tropics can get very humid can't they?

Oh - and GREAT to see you back friend ;)
Click to expand...
You're describing my conditions. Our basement wasn't carved out of bedrock, but it's over bare earth and even in summer it's very difficult to warm up my flowering room. I feel this inability to warm things up, even to the mid/high 60s, is part of the reason I can't get good density from my indoor grown buds.

Can I ask you a couple of questions, maybe privately so the thread isn't hijacked? Unless Jalisco doesn't object.
:)
 
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