Root aphids?

[homebrew420]

So what a merry fucking christmas this turned out to be. It was great when I recieved some blue sat 2.2 from the wife ...then turned tragic when I went to tend the plants pulled out a clone growing in rockwool to inspect root. That when I saw them for the first time. shit ass fuck schmegma! How the hell did these things find me? have never had them before and now that I have them how the hell do I get rid of them? Ihearthey are the worst. They look just liek the regular aphids but i little more dull and dark colored. We shall see what neem oil does. Do you think diatomacious earth would help? Don't really want touse heavy chemicals and will most likely just toss all the cuts taken. Not really worth the chance of spreading.

Help me please. all advice is welcome.


Thanks

 

[PankFlamingoMon]

Honestly if they are in veg use imidacloprid or throw the cuts out and start over. Root aphids are the "worst best kept secret of indoor gardening". Organically killing them is nearly impossible bro but capable if your the most attention to detail grower ever! You need to use a tripple threat of things like azamax, botanigard, and nematodes. I've cranked co2 up to 10,000ppm for 4 hours and these things still were alive. If you use imidacloprid you need to allow 45-60 days for it to flush out of the plant. Good thing is it acts as a systemic and absolutely ends all RA population within 3 days. Happy gardening hope my 2 cents helps bro. Hit me on the cell if you want to talk any more i'm highly experienced in root aphid mass genocides.

Be Ez,

Pank Mon

PS: You can buy the imidacloprid at any convenient Home Depot or Lowes for 15 bucks and your hardly have to use any.

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

Honestly if they are in veg use imidacloprid or throw the cuts out and start over. Root aphids are the "worst best kept secret of indoor gardening". Organically killing them is nearly impossible bro but capable if your the most attention to detail grower ever! You need to use a tripple threat of things like azamax, botanigard, and nematodes. I've cranked co2 up to 10,000ppm for 4 hours and these things still were alive. If you use imidacloprid you need to allow 45-60 days for it to flush out of the plant. Good thing is it acts as a systemic and absolutely ends all RA population within 3 days. Happy gardening hope my 2 cents helps bro. Hit me on the cell if you want to talk any more i'm highly experienced in root aphid mass genocides.

Be Ez,

Pank Mon

PS: You can buy the imidacloprid at any convenient Home Depot or Lowes for 15 bucks and your hardly have to use any.

Where did you find this? I am using Merit 75 and haven't read this anywhere...not doubting you...just looking for the info source so that I can read it too!......I dont know enough about this stuff. Well....maybe I do. If it kills them and not me, I'm ok with it....lol. I need more info specific to MJ if its out there. Thanks.

 

[Seamaiden]

I have also been told the imidacloprid remains in plant tissues for 60 days, probably in the MSDS or other white papers on it somewhere. It's why I'm using triazicide on the flowering girls, saving the Merit 75 for the vegging ladies.

As for hardly having to use any of the imid, I disagree. I used the Bayer Tree & Shrub and had to do three applications. M75 is supposed to be once-n-done. Triazicide was once-n-done, AND it can be used as a root drench as well as foliar application. Another product that should be safer to use on flowering girls is liquid Sevin. I didn't choose that because it cannot be used as a root drench.

 

[BakedasBeans]

Can the M75 be used as a root drench? I dont know much about it at all but have heard it works wonders!

 

[Seamaiden]

Yes, it sure can, but again, I've been warned to only use it on vegging girls and moms because it does remain in tissues for 60 days. That's the reason why I switched to the triazicide, because it can be used on food items fairly close to harvest (depending on what it is, of course). 21 days gives me plenty of leeway on that.

Now my problem is even though I find no fliers, my girls are still yellowing pretty hard and they've got some time left to go. The way they're fattening up, though, you wouldn't know they've been having such problems. I hope the smoke is good from this run.

 

[BakedasBeans]

Thanks for the help SM!

Theres another thread on aphids (I think you posted in there as well) but in there theres a post about aphids beng able to spread viruses. Maybe this is why they are still yellowing?? Dont know much about this but hope it helps

 

[Seamaiden]

Yep, yep, still researching but at this point what I'm seeing does not appear to be an additional disease vectored. Also... <looks embarrassed> it appears that we're closer to harvest time than I realized.

 

[Green Supreme]

Nemasys, but you can't use chemies as well or you kill the nematodes. Peace GS

 

[cemchris]

Sea, did you ever use that Sevin you mentioned you had. I'm curious to find out how that works. ~Lilmiss

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

Yes, it sure can, but again, I've been warned to only use it on vegging girls and moms because it does remain in tissues for 60 days. That's the reason why I switched to the triazicide, because it can be used on food items fairly close to harvest (depending on what it is, of course). 21 days gives me plenty of leeway on that.

Now my problem is even though I find no fliers, my girls are still yellowing pretty hard and they've got some time left to go. The way they're fattening up, though, you wouldn't know they've been having such problems. I hope the smoke is good from this run.

The round I just finished did that. I know you have said you aren't a bud squeezer, I'm not either. But density is where they kicked me in the balls. Squeeze a few and see if they are thickening up like they should. Not just appearance wise but the meat to the touch.

I got my fucking feelings hurt when we came down.

 

[Seamaiden]

Heh, I'll be happy to squeeze a coupla buds to check.

Sea, did you ever use that Sevin you mentioned you had. I'm curious to find out how that works. ~Lilmiss

No, I decided on the triazicide instead (root drench thing).

 

[PankFlamingoMon]

Muddy,

It's no secret that "imidacloprid" is a systemic that ends root aphids. I've never seen them live after applying it. To be safe I would use 5ml per gallon with 3-5 applications. If you want to go the extra distance hell give em 10ml per gallon. Merit 75 = 75% immidiacloprid so that is going to be the highest content you can buy in my experience. I have always driven down the local HD or Lowes and bought Bayer Shrub and Tree which contains like 2.9% or something close. With three applications of that I never saw a root aphid again.

Root aphids are not something you want to give a chance to. Once they penetrate the flower beds GL!! Organically killing them is nearly impossible and takes one motivated dedicated individual. I have in my experience eliminated them using alternate drenches of Botanigard / Azmax / Azatrol. I would soak every square inch of my medium daily and physically kill as many as I could by hand. In the end it really wasn't worth it for the amount of money I shelled out and how fucked up the plants got by the constant bombardment of drenches on top of those little bastards grubbing the roots daily. My two cents: "end it in the veg room and use pesticides"

Be Ez,

Pank Mon

 

[homebrew420]

Hey errbody, thanks so much for the info. This was one of the last pests on the list. Now I have had them all ...almost. I will be picking up the bayer here tomorrow. Thanks again

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

my dad taught high school biology.

He graduated college in 1972, and the dangers of DDT and other bad stuff were just coming out. He said he was arguing with a professor about environmental impacts and the professor told him...."We grow food, do YOU want to eat it or do you want the BUGS to eat it?"

The moral was know your business. Be safe. Be wise. And use the resources you have to master your garden.

 

[PankFlamingoMon]

If I were growing an outdoor crop I would never use "imidacloprid". The impact on local bee's and other wildlife would be horrible. I only use such practices in indoor sealed grow rooms. Totally agree with you Buddy ( Environment over Convenience )
:) Happy Gardening!

Pank

 

[smokey79]

Help these things are near indestructable thought had gnats ben a coco grower bot after using gnatol a thought had delt with the rpoblem only to find a on mass revenge attac, i cnat work out if i got two or three diffrent bugs in there, had a flood from burst pipe and had bugs ever since had to move stuff n let plunmbers in!
I have now finished my gnatol to no avail, 24 days into flower, what would you recommend am sure these root aphids are surviving the gnatol and are now the problem after forking out big style on this grow dont want loose my bud at the last throw but outo ideas tryed all organic methods, cider vinegar-no intrest, nicotine, potatoe skins helpful but not enough, am sure others but jut cant seem to get these pests under control, they are sum big got to be gnats??? sum small- all seem prefer the dark of pots to camoflage themselfs, dryed my medium as best i dare dropped temps to 14c at pot level for a day and been keepin low temps at night all to little avil-help!!!!-

 

[purpleberry]

smokey79 I would hit them with azatrol every week until you can harvest, and then try to get rid of everything in veg and clean out your room real good.

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

The merit is 75% Imo

I believe it is Spectracide that is 15 % Imo

The merit has a 60 day systemic window before harvest.

I think (check it yourself fur shure) Spec has a 21 day window before harvest.


Maybe if you have enough time to hit them with the spectracide?


From my experience with them. If you dont use nukes...you may as well stop now. They will destroy your yeild at the end of the day.

 

[Seamaiden]

The over-the-counter imidacloprid products are no more than 1.75% imid, and it's too late in flower for smokey to use unless these are 16wk+ strains he's running.

Triazicide products allow about that 21 day harvest window and they can be used as root drenches.

Liquid Sevin allows a similar harvest window, but cannot be used as a root drench, it's a foliar only.