Spider mites!!! Are these methods affective?!?! Need help plz!!!

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H

Hydrohelper

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Abamectin!!! its cheap, lasts a long time! its the active ingredient in avid. IT CHANGED MY LIFE! check out the video ^^^
 
H

Hydrohelper

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Why mix up these spray solutions that will kill about half the population and put the rest into dormancy? Then mix it up and spray again a week later? Those are very temporary fixes that will keep the war going with the mites. Use abamectin and end the war for good!
 
Pakalolo Laau

Pakalolo Laau

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This is the report for your Toxicity levels in Abamectin.

I myself will pass on your method. Caliclean works and I am making a big batch for under 10 dollars a lb. of peppers.



Technical avermectin is quite acutely toxic, with an oral rat LD50 (lethal dose for 50% of the test rats) of 30 mg/kg. EPA reviewed toxicological data from the manufacturer in connection with a 1987 petition for establishment of a tolerance in citrus oil and citrus pulp. EPA’s reviewers found that avermectin does not cause birth defects in rats and rabbits, but can cause cleft palate in mice. The calculated “lowest effect level (LEL)” for the latter effect was quite low at 0.10 mg/kg/day. EPA reviewers stated that “studies on mutagenicity demonstrated an overall negative potential (ETN 1996). Abamectin has been shown to cause pupil dilation, mild skin irritation, vomiting, convulsions and/or tremors and coma in laboratory animals. Because it is a nerve poison, it can also cause nervous system depression in mammals at very high doses.

A study in rats given 0.40 mg/kg/day of abamectin showed decreased lactation, increased stillbirths and an increased likelihood of producing unhealthy offspring, demonstrating a strong chance of similar effects in humans at high enough doses. Abamectin is also very toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates (FCH 2000).



I found this report in the top 1o listings for the pesticide. I hope this will help. Unreal. Have a great week.

Aloha,
Pakalolo La'au.
 
jkar_928

jkar_928

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pesticides, organicides, they all suck use lady bugs all natural and eat alot of pests
 
Pakalolo Laau

Pakalolo Laau

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Just got me an fogger sprayer. Let's see how this will affect them little squirts. Beats pump spraying. I bet I can get all my girls with one pass with this tool. I will let you knows if it is more effective. Alohas.
 
Pakalolo Laau

Pakalolo Laau

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pesticides, organicides, they all suck use lady bugs all natural and eat alot of pests
They don't do well indoors for me. I put in a bunch and they all seem to die or disappear. The lights tend to disorient them too. Another downside is they won't ship to HI. You can catch them here, but like I said, no luck keeping them indoors. Alohas.
 
jkar_928

jkar_928

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I put mine in at lights off and some die but most of mine nested in the bottom of my pots with no problem. this is one of my plants in veg under a 600w MH, I have about 30 lady bugs in veg and about 30 in flower, but to each their own thats whats cool about growin
 
My room 2 008
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pegasus

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I inherited a property with a serious infestation, they seem immune to Azatrol/Azamax, which makes sense, as its been used frequently for years. So, on to Pyganic, which seems effective for up to a couple weeks, but they always return. I have been religious about being clean when entering the room, but every few weeks, they pop up. I've been here 9 months.

Got frustrated and tried Floramite, at 2 tablespoons/3 gallons water, pH 5.5, lights off for 12 hours after treatment. I coated the plants, massaged the stuff into them, top and bottom, with gloved hands...
it didn't work at all!! The bastards are alive and crawling the very next day. (Seemaiden, you said there are CA resistant mites?)

I want to kick this before I flip the lights. Someone suggested predator mites, said it worked for them. Any suggestions about this? Are some predators better than others? I'd rather get away from the chemicals, eventually these super mites will be resistant to everything, and we'll be dying of lung cancer...
I've been here 9 months, and although I can knock the mite population back, they reappear every few weeks.
 
click80

click80

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I inherited a property with a serious infestation, they seem immune to Azatrol/Azamax, which makes sense, as its been used frequently for years. So, on to Pyganic, which seems effective for up to a couple weeks, but they always return. I have been religious about being clean when entering the room, but every few weeks, they pop up. I've been here 9 months.

Got frustrated and tried Floramite, at 2 tablespoons/3 gallons water, pH 5.5, lights off for 12 hours after treatment. I coated the plants, massaged the stuff into them, top and bottom, with gloved hands...
it didn't work at all!! The bastards are alive and crawling the very next day. (Seemaiden, you said there are CA resistant mites?)

I want to kick this before I flip the lights. Someone suggested predator mites, said it worked for them. Any suggestions about this? Are some predators better than others? I'd rather get away from the chemicals, eventually these super mites will be resistant to everything, and we'll be dying of lung cancer...
I've been here 9 months, and although I can knock the mite population back, they reappear every few weeks.

I got rid of mine by starting a rotation of Azamax w/spinosad as they can be used together, (treat soil also) and then inoculating the plant a few days later with a tea made from Capulators Beneficials, specifically the Foliar Pack. You can pm him and he can tell you specifically what microbes are in it, but I know that at least one species of bacteria in the Foliar Pack has one that will kill baby mites. I would also do a foliar spray or root drench with some aspirin to peak out the plants defense mechanism. Some people have had to do a series of sprays and root drenches every 3-5 days to get rid of them. I had a terrible problem and thought I was going to go nuts. Thats when I started using compost teas and beneficials. They were gone within about a month.

It's very strange to hear that Floramite didn't work, I have heard that it's very effective. You might even want to get some Azasol, that is the same as Azamax but has 6% of the active ingredient, Azamax has about 1%. There are other ones out there with higher concentrations I just don't know the name off the top of my head.

I never had any luck with predators. Never could get them established.
 
P

pegasus

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Thanks! So, predators do work outside? I will look into spinosad and beneficials...have had no luck with foggers. I have used Azasol, it has been sort of effective, not as effective as Pyganic, but worth rotating. Maybe something was wrong with the Floramite I got. It worked before. But, nothing lasts, I was wondering if there was something that could be done to get rid of them Once and For All.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I inherited a property with a serious infestation, they seem immune to Azatrol/Azamax, which makes sense, as its been used frequently for years. So, on to Pyganic, which seems effective for up to a couple weeks, but they always return. I have been religious about being clean when entering the room, but every few weeks, they pop up. I've been here 9 months.

Got frustrated and tried Floramite, at 2 tablespoons/3 gallons water, pH 5.5, lights off for 12 hours after treatment. I coated the plants, massaged the stuff into them, top and bottom, with gloved hands...
it didn't work at all!! The bastards are alive and crawling the very next day. (Seemaiden, you said there are CA resistant mites?)
Floramite-resistant, Avid-resistant, No Pest Strip-resistant, I-can't-remember-what-else-resistant mites. SoCal is THICK with them and I'm sure the delta/ag regions are as well. This is where persistent treatments with iso:water and plant essential oils should come into play. They don't have resistance to those treatments. The problem is being thorough and being diligent (every 3 days, it's a new religion).

I wish I could discuss predators with you, but I haven't used that method indoors, so cannot speak to it.
 
click80

click80

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Floramite-resistant, Avid-resistant, No Pest Strip-resistant, I-can't-remember-what-else-resistant mites. SoCal is THICK with them and I'm sure the delta/ag regions are as well. This is where persistent treatments with iso:water and plant essential oils should come into play. They don't have resistance to those treatments. The problem is being thorough and being diligent (every 3 days, it's a new religion).

I wish I could discuss predators with you, but I haven't used that method indoors, so cannot speak to it.

Damn. Well what do they/you do there? Once you get them it sounds like it would be near impossible to get rid of them.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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I'm in NorCal, but my son's in SoCal and it's a constant battle for him. He's hit on a few different control methods, but as long as he stays married to the chemical controls, as far as I'm concerned he's going to stay married to the problems.

This year I didn't do anything. Got them on my green beans about 3 weeks ago after going the whole summer with no problems outside of deer and birds. I decided to leave them be, but not touch them so I don't vector. I believe there may have still been mites in one of my cannabis beds, but I decided that unless I saw some serious damage I would do nothing. Things never progressed beyond a little stippling on the leaves and I've not observed any mites in the buds, no webbing or anything like that.

One thing I'm pretty anal about is freezing everything I've been wearing, using and touching whenever I've been around any plants that have any infestation problems. My hat, sandals/shoes, clothing, everything gets popped into one of our freezers for several hours to overnight.
 
click80

click80

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You want to hear something weird? Okay, where I first started growing at, by myself, I never had any trouble. I moved into a big house with a "partner" and we had endless troubles. I just got to where I used my own homemade SNS type spray with essential oils, Neem, and occasionally Azamax. I kept them at bay but never eradicated. Then I moved to where I am now, still had a few here and there until about two months after I moved in I was getting ready to do my routine Neem spray and I decided to do a count. I went through my moms and all in flower and couldn't find a one!!!!

That was over a year ago and until about a week ago I haven't see any signs of them. I had been putting my clones outside to harden/veg them and I picked up some thrips. I used Caps spray and it got rid of them on all but my moms. ( I think I zoned out and forgot to spray them because of a family emergency). Anyway the the thrips did get a little heavy for about 3 days, but are under control now, BUT while doing a thrip search I found ONE leaf, just one, that had about ten mites on it. I had never seen them look like this before. They had the two spots but these were beefier looking than what I remembered them looking like. These were definitely bigger and were green. The ones I always had were like a rust color.

Needless to say I sprayed immediately with Azamax and to this day I haven't seen any others. It has only been a little over a week but I am pretty sure it was just on that one leaf. When I look for them I am very thorough. Anyway it was very weird.

I grow in a garage and it has a pretty healthy spider (not spidermite) population. I think it's either them, or them and a combination of my compost teas, microbes from Capulator and my once a month Gnatrol treatments that are keeping them away because everyone around me is still having problems. They say that the Cali mites are in Colorado now. I am thinking that a lot of people are just bringing them in on their clothes and not realizing it. Clothing and shoes are another thing I am really careful about. I have my garage clothes and that's all I use when around my plants, for the most part anyway. I also keep things clean clean clean. I mop my garage floors once a week with bleach and water also. I am not tooting my own horn by typing all this. I just know that I did have a terrible problem, I got away from a not clean growing partner, started doing all the stuff I have mentioned and besides that one leaf I haven't seen them in over a year. I also foliar spray with my compost tea and Spray=n=gro about every week and a half. So somewhere in all that stuff something, or all of it, is working.

Oh, Seamaiden by the way, if you remember that message about alfalfa tea i sent awhile back, I have had enough time, and another batch that just got done flowering, to know that it was heat that made my buds so airy, not the Alfalfa tea. I am getting away with using it until right after stretch. I use a 1:6 mix with water and this batch I am trimming now is rockhard, no foxtailing...etc. My A. Tea is kinda strong i think. I mix in 12 cups of Alfalfa meal with 4 gallons water and bubble it for about 72 hours. I add in a little Cold processed fish emulsion to keep foam down and a little molasses, just enough to keep it healthy for the long bubbling period.

Sorry for going off topic.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Cleanliness is, in my opinion, KEY. I learned a lot about vectoring, etcetera, when I was working at the Long Beach Aquarium (of the Pacific), food handling techniques, all that stuff. Especially with the bird exhibits, at the time I was there I recall there was a pretty bad bird disease going around in SoCal so the lorikeet exhibit was closed off to the public entirely, as it wasn't like the penguin display where there's a 2" thick slab of plexi between the animals and the public. Man, the precautions taken for anyone going into that exhibit!

Cleanliness of the grow areas, along with location and good living conditions year-round for his SMs, are part and parcel of my son's issues in my opinion.

But how does one prevent vector of spider mites on outdoor plants when animals like birds can easily get to and around them? I couldn't. And so it is there that, hopefully, cultivation practices come into play, again in my opinion. I think the beneficial microbes are playing a huge role in your success here, and I can't wait to start using what I was sent.

Great information about the alfalfa, too, I appreciate you updating me on that. :)
 
click80

click80

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Okay this is off topic but here is a great preventative way to induce SAR and also some built in protection against thrips, fungus gnat larvae and general soil health. The stuff is called Insect Frass (poop). You just make a tea, foliar and root drench. It is definitely active against fungus gnat larvae and will weaken other root pests. Great organic source of micronutrients, cal, mag and NPK is 2-2-2
 
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