THCFarmer.com
121,145 Members Log In Register
Log In Register

drdre and trees

  • Thread starter Thread starter Drdre
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

drdre and trees

Drdre 316 Replies 72,247 Views
Page 4 of 16 · Replies 61–80 of 317
#61
Papa said:
they look a bit light and fluffy . . . which is what i would expect from the 60" centers. i'd reduce that to 48-50" max to improve the quality . . . . or keep the 60" centers and stack two thouies wherever you now have one.
Click to expand...

..or do a 600 under a thouie. I think @Jalisco Kid is onto something with his suggestion to espalier plants against the walls and run the lights between them and the middle row.
 
#65
TD I partially agree with you in some cases plants do what your suggesting but I ran mostly mango in my system and this particular strain is a super heavy
Feeder and if not fed properly she shows deficiency and it takes forever to correct so This is why I won't let her tell me she's hungry
 
#66
TD I'm sorry about the punctuation I use my phone to write things out because I have severe carpal tunnel in my hands and doing all that punctuation on a phone sucks I think you are the first to not understand what I'm saying I do appreciate the advice IMO I think it's not about how much water they drink through there roots but more of maintaining vpd or high humidity for growth sorry not trying to have a pissing match just these are my Theory's and personal experiences

Any more experienced farmers on here who could shed light on this subject
 
#67
Drdre said:
TD I'm sorry about the punctuation I use my phone to write things out because I have severe carpal tunnel in my hands and doing all that punctuation on a phone sucks I think you are the first to not understand what I'm saying I do appreciate the advice IMO I think it's not about how much water they drink through there roots but more of maintaining vpd or high humidity for growth sorry not trying to have a pissing match just these are my Theory's and personal experiences

Any more experienced farmers on here who could shed light on this subject
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, higher humidity is an important aspect of good climate management. VPD theory helps the grower determine what is best in their situation, for example if I live in Missouri, I would know better than to attempt to run low humidity. Running AC is fine because there is always more damp to take the place of what's getting sucked out. Therefore, a grower might well choose higher temperatures in his growroom in order to meet VPD guidelines, as high humidity at low temperatures is overdamp, where warmer conditions need it. Because VPD is satisfied, the higher temperatures won't hurt the plants as long as they're fed and watered sufficiently.
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
#68
You can not compare one sys to another. Especially when you are using a sys lacking in good flows. JK
Pissing matches are good if the truth shines through.
And watch your spelling too buddy...
 
#69
VPD theory is not a way to water your plants. It's the sweet spot between humidity and temperature that allows your plants to grow the fastest.
Downloadfile
 
#70
TylerDurden said:
So, since VPD requires a high humidity it makes my mind think that then plants would be highly susceptible to molding and mildew. It's then paramount to have excellent air flow in the grow space?
Click to expand...

No. Mold is caused by improper ventilation, not humidity. This is an old wive's tale that just won't die. Powdery mildew actually prefers low humidity, as it attacks plants under stress from it!
 
#71
TD high humidity prevents the plants sensitive leaves from drying out. Plants drying out above root zone is a huge reason plants drink so much. I keep my humidity 60% almost through my whole grow. My humity is high so my plants don't have to drink so much
 
#72
Drdre said:
TD high humidity prevents the plants sensitive leaves from drying out. Plants drying out above root zone is a huge reason plants drink so much. I keep my humidity 60% almost through my whole grow. My humity is high so my plants don't have to drink so much
Click to expand...

THIS is VPD theory in action. Since humidity is higher and the plants aren't sucking water like someone dying of thirst in the desert, you can safely raise your EC, allowing the plants better access to nutrients. If you've never seen it before, look out! You hit that sweet spot between temperature, RH, EC, and CO² and stand back, cuz your girls are gonna BLOW UP!
 
#73
TylerDurden said:
Ok I understand this theory now and it sounds badass and helps the plant function very efficiently. Although I have another question, if mold is caused by poor ventilation and not high humidity, than the importance of ventilation is to alleviate the grow space of low CO2 levels, air flow, and not drawing water vapor out of the grow space? Correct? How does improper ventilation allow molds form and thrive?

Thanks for the lesson guys!
Click to expand...

Two kinds of ventilation are causing you confusion. The ventilation you're referring to is exchanging grow room air with outside air for climate control purposes.

Inside the growroom the grower needs to be sure there is plenty of air movement in all parts of his canopy, using fans and whatnot to eliminate any pockets of air stagnation.
 
#74
ttystikk said:
Two kinds of ventilation are causing you confusion. The ventilation you're referring to is exchanging grow room air with outside air for climate control purposes.

Inside the growroom the grower needs to be sure there is plenty of air movement in all parts of his canopy, using fans and whatnot to eliminate any pockets of air stagnation.
Click to expand...

The difference between "ventilation" and "circulation"
 
#77
TylerDurden said:
This is the first I've hear of the VPD theory. I've just read to keep humidity in a flowering room below 40% which i think helps prevent vulnerability to mildew. But your saying you actually keep your humidity a bit higher so the water vapor will provide H2O for the plant and then keep your ppm high for your roots in order for the plant to get food. Is that correct? If so, that's a super interesting approach and would also enjoy hearing others experiences, insight, and the benefits!

This is a data base where we all can learn from each others experiences. Therefore, Drdre please don't perceive what I'm saying out of context. I'm trying to be helpful and also learn, just like you. I hope we didn't get off on the wrong foot because I'm running a similar square footage and look forward to bouncing ideas off one another.

Kid, can you please elaborate on your points.. I don't know what you mean by sayin "a sys lacking in good flows" or why systems can't be compared to one another.
Click to expand...

Uff.

Homie you need to learn up on VPD. Critical knowledge right there. If you are worried about mold you don't have enough circulation.
 
#78
time to update. finished harvesting and biggest plant was a mango that was 3.375. lost a relatively small amount of bud to light burn. quality is great getting new plants in Monday.
 
#80
pic 1 finished mango bud
pic 2 finished sour d bud
pic 3 amount of lost bud due to light burn
pic 4 finished mango plant
 
Page 4 of 16 · Replies 61–80 of 317
Back
Top Bottom