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EZ Cloner Collars - is there a re-usable option?

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EZ Cloner Collars - is there a re-usable option?

redwhiteblue 88 Replies 33,370 Views
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redwhiteblue

redwhiteblue

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#1
I hate the concept of throwing away the neoprene EZ Cloner collars all the time, and I've found that success rates are lowered when re-using them.

Is there a non-neoprene, maybe a soft polyurethane or plastic alternative?
 
#2
Lower success when reused? I have owned my 120 for a couple years without buying new collars. I used to sterilize them with H202 but now I just rinse them and run CAPS. You shouldnt have to buy new ones each round. I run 4 per collar and get 90-95%.
 
#3
Are you using any nutes with them? The salts seem to dry them ouy and hardens them. Since learning from my mistake the new ones really aren't showing any ware.
 
#4
GR33NL3AF said:
Lower success when reused? I have owned my 120 for a couple years without buying new collars. I used to sterilize them with H202 but now I just rinse them and run CAPS. You shouldnt have to buy new ones each round. I run 4 per collar and get 90-95%.
Click to expand...

I've been getting 98% with new collars and 80% reusing. Same treatment you're doing. It's a business I can't be losing 20+ clones each time.
 
#6
are you trying to be environmentally friendly or just more friendly to the wallet? if its the latter make your own. run a hole saw in reverse to cut. can use either the same neoprene material bought in rolls, or just those multicolored interlocking mats that are a bit thinner. extremely cheap to make.
 
#7
redwhiteblue said:
I've been getting 98% with new collars and 80% reusing. Same treatment you're doing. It's a business I can't be losing 20+ clones each time.
Click to expand...

Yes it is a business so treat it as such; think ahead - I stab 80-100 more then I need. Buying a new pack of collars each time isn't a practical business expense, just cut more clones.
 
#8
I just use my collars till roots penetrate them....soak in bleach,rinse, air dry until next clone round every time. Granted i dont do 100+ clones each round....maybe 12 max! No bragging or bs...but i never lose a clone. I also never use the ezclone during summer...gets to hot. Plugs and dome for summer cloning. $.02
 
#9
Just had a thought; do you run your sprayer full time? I got myself an ART-dne, I believe its called and it regulates the on/off to 20 seconds on and 3-5 minutes off. It's completely necessary in order to avoid rot, especially during the summer.
 
#11
PermaClone is your answer! I've been using my forst set for over 4 years and second set for about 3 years. They're microwave and heat sterilizable and can be easily dunk sterilized. Literally the best collar of all
Time. Their cloning methods are also amazing. They're changing the game all around from the collar to the cloning techiques.

Www.permaclone.com
 
#12
CocoCola said:
PermaClone is your answer! I've been using my forst set for over 4 years and second set for about 3 years. They're microwave and heat sterilizable and can be easily dunk sterilized. Literally the best collar of all
Time. Their cloning methods are also amazing. They're changing the game all around from the collar to the cloning techiques.

Www.permaclone.com
Click to expand...

Those look awesome. I'm also sick of throwing away collars. Are those $2.99 per single collar?
 
#13
Yeah, they're expensive...that's higher than they were when I bought them, though.

I can vouch that they last forever. I clone atleast monthly and my first set is over 4 years old w just a little fade. Here's some pic of hiw they look as they get olders. I microwave sterilize them now where as I used to pressure them.
 

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#14
CocoCola said:
Yeah, they're expensive...that's higher than they were when I bought them, though.

I can vouch that they last forever. I clone atleast monthly and my first set is over 4 years old w just a little fade. Here's some pic of hiw they look as they get olders. I microwave sterilize them now where as I used to pressure them.
Click to expand...

IMG 1297


Time to test if you are blowing hot air up everyone's rearend to sell these things or if they are worth all the lame internet hype
 
#15
I already have a feeling the guy who made these is a tool. In his instructions he writes "hypochlorite products (pool shock) are not the same as hypochlorous acid"

Wrong.

"In chemistry, hypochlorite is an ion composed of chlorine and oxygen, with the chemical formula ClO−. It can combine with a number of counter ions to form hypochlorites, which may also be regarded as the salts of hypochlorous acid."

"Hypochlorous acid is a weak acid with the chemical formula HClO. It forms when chlorinedissolves in water, and itself partially dissociates in water, into hypochlorite (-) and hydronium ions. It is HClO and OCl- that are the primary agents for disinfection when chlorine is used to disinfect water for human use.[2]"

He says they are two different things yet they aren't. If you take an hypochlorite and add it to water with a low ph you get hypochlorous acid.
 
#16
FooDoo said:
I already have a feeling the guy who made these is a tool. In his instructions he writes "hypochlorite products (pool shock) are not the same as hypochlorous acid"

Wrong.

"In chemistry, hypochlorite is an ion composed of chlorine and oxygen, with the chemical formula ClO−. It can combine with a number of counter ions to form hypochlorites, which may also be regarded as the salts of hypochlorous acid."

"Hypochlorous acid is a weak acid with the chemical formula HClO. It forms when chlorinedissolves in water, and itself partially dissociates in water, into hypochlorite (-) and hydronium ions. It is HClO and OCl- that are the primary agents for disinfection when chlorine is used to disinfect water for human use.[2]"

He says they are two different things yet they aren't. If you take an hypochlorite and add it to water with a low ph you get hypochlorous acid.
Click to expand...

Your right but only under conditions no one on any forum has figured out the chemistry, it has to do w proper pH adjust or using a hypochlorous acid generator.

if the water is pH 6.0 then hypochlorite salts (bleach = sodium hypohlorite; pool shock = calcium hypochlorite) will protonate (that is a hydrogen ion will be likey bound; I say likely because these thing are still in equilibrium w being free ions)

Meanwhile, pool shock AND bleach are not acidic, they're caustic out of the bottle or dissolved in water.

The chemistry is slightly complicated, But i'md down to educate.

Also, you cannot simply add pH down to the pool shock (or bleach) because chlorine gas will likely form if you use the wrong chemicals to adjust the pH. GH pH diwn wont do it, BUT Advanced will...problem is if you over shoot the pH and go to LOW you also will end uo w chlorine gas popping out of solution, so pH adjusting a well buffer solution before habd would be ideal, then add your hypochlorite.

I am aware of this chemistry, but as a business cannot go having people do chemistry that yields chlorine gas. I'm it's also not necessary.

I recommend you use hypochlorite salts in solution at 2-5 ppm for cuttings, 0.5-2 ppm once rooted (higher will shock roots), and hypochlorite produc5 can be used at 0.05 - 0.5 range bc they're protonated hypochlorite salts which = hypohlorous acid.
 
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#17
FooDoo said:
View attachment 662974

Time to test if you are blowing hot air up everyone's rearend to sell these things or if they are worth all the lame internet hype
Click to expand...

They're worth it, but I'm here to help if you have any problems.

I can say our tips & tricks section of the manual is the best in the biz for cloning.
 
#18
Actually the chemistry doesn't seem very hard at all.

http://chem.libretexts.org/Core/Ino.../Group_17:_The_Halogens/Chemistry_of_Chlorine

Reactions with Water
Usually, reactions of chlorine with water are for disinfection purposes. Chlorine is only slightly soluble in water, with its maximum solubility occurring at 49° F. After that, its solubility decreases until 212° F. At temperatures below that range, it forms crystalline hydrates (usually Cl2Cl2) and becomes insoluble. Between that range, it usually forms hypochlorous acid (HOClHOCl). This is the primary reaction used for water/wastewater disinfection and bleaching.



Cl2+H2O→HOCl+HCl"

They did state "usually forms " which is just like how you said likely forms.

Meaning you put chlorine into water , better chance than not, hypoclorous acid forms. If it didn't, your statement and the statement of that study would read "sometimes hupocholorous acid will form" or "there's a small chance the acid forms" or "if you're very lucky and all conditions are ideal, maybe you'll get hypochlorous acid"

For cleaning a cloner, pool shock at 3 pennies a gallon to "most likely get hypochlorous acid" is a way better option than "chlorine water named UC roots for $80 a gallon"

It's cloning. Simplest thing in the world. People stick cuts into cups of tap water and get roots.

I'll still run a side by side test with these but I'm pretty sure I wasted money on a snake oil product. I was intrigued because I like to be environmentally cautious where I can but I doubt these are game changing.
 
#19
Everything you're saying is correct. You can bubble chlorine gas through water and get hypochlorous acid. But we're not talking about using chlorine gas, we're talking about home-made hypochlorous acid from hypochlorite salts and it's tedious, different from water-to-water supply and unnecessary.

Simply use hypochlorite salts at the dosages they are effective 0.5 - 2 ppm for roots, or 2 - 5 ppm for treating your water or cuts before root formation. This is what I mention in the manual and is practiced in horticulture water treatment.
 
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#20
Got the owner front and center?
PermaClone said:
Everything you're saying is correct. You can bubble chlorine gas through water and get hypochlorous acid. But we're not talking about using chlorine gas, we're talking about home-made hypochlorous acid from hypochlorite salts and it's tedious, different from water-to-water supply and unnecessary.

Simply use hypochlorite salts at the dosages they are effective 0.5 - 2 ppm for roots, or 2 - 5 ppm for treating your water or cuts before root formation. This is what I mention in the manual and is practiced in horticulture water treatment.
Click to expand...
 
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