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Casey Jones vegging wont stay green!

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Casey Jones vegging wont stay green!

R. Face 22 Replies 5,927 Views
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Hey guys I have 2 Casey cuts I got from my dear friend Shmoe...and for some reason I can keep em green...they are in 2:1 Happy frog/ Light warrior with 110ppm tap water that sits for 24hrs..then i dd the nutes. The only nute I use in veg is pbp grow..I have cal mag but havent really used too much of it...i cant tell what they want, although they keep growing like a mofo..lol

any thoughts guys?
 

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I think maybe they need to be re-potted???? I have had certain strains behave and look the same exact way, simply cuz they were stressed from not being transplanted soon enough......There isn't really a uniformity to the problem, (which typically is more indicative of a Deficiency/ or nutrient lockout/ or Ph trouble) and the plants foliage is effected seemingly randomly from the bottom up.....When was the last time you transplanted? Have you used any kind of foliar plant products?????
 
I dont usually foliar feed, and i just transplanted into brand new soil, bc i was thinking it was old/ depleted soil;

but i have tap water that i let sit for 24 hrs, that tests 110 ppms, i dont use much cal mag bc of that so maybe they need a lil calmag?

the ph is on point, about 6-6.3ph. Only thing I give em is PBP grow...soil is 2:1 happy frog/ light warrior..LK is an option...ill check it out...i was thinking it was a slight lack of certain mico/trace nutes? Thanks for the replys guys.
 
it looks like mag deficiency to me due to the ph, since mag is active at 6.5 and more. Cal-Mag should help.

i suggest you look at this thread if you haven't already:


good luck
BR
 
So brother how are your CJ cuts doing?????? Hopefully shaping up after a nice shot of cal mag????? I'm wondering if the Cal Mag was what it needed????? Best wishes R. face!!!
 
I think you might be right about trace minerals being needed. Also, the happy frog soil can sometimes be a little overwhelming because it is packed with nutrients. It could also be a pH problem. Are you checking the pH of your run off? Check it out and see what it's at. It should be a little lower than when you put it in, but if it's significantly lower then I would flush them. This might be a dumb question, but I've seen it done before; do you check the pH after you put the nutes in or before?

-Supa
 
same exact pro im havin right now w 3 diff strains in a new system..i tried everything and still cant figure it out either...thought mag too ...nothing seems to help though and its gettin worse water is damm near identical ppm wise to yours as well as ph ...im gonna try and drop it down more tomm to possibly mid to high 5"s ..went down from 61/2 to 6 still no signs of it clearin up....sorry forgot to add im in hydro ...but same deal otherwise
 
hey guys thanks for the continuous help...The PH is at 6-6.2 but i have not checked the run off...so im assuming Sway is probably right....because I feel like the ppm ratio is ok and the PH in general doesnt seem to be out of ordinary, so maybe its locked out at a ph of 6?

So i should drop it lower then? Ive never tested run off and frankly dont understand it even if i did....no ones ever explained that to me..i guess one part i just never got to...im interested though, bc that probably is the problem, i just dont know how to fix it..
 
I check the run off to see what's going on in my soil. If the pH drops drastically then my roots probably have a lot of build up around them and it's time to flush. If you continuously pump nutes into your plant and only flush at the end your plant will suffer while it is growing and won't produce the results you're aiming for. Salt build up can also lead to deficiencies and lock outs.

-Supa
 
I check the run off to see what's going on in my soil. If the pH drops drastically then my roots probably have a lot of build up around them and it's time to flush. If you continuously pump nutes into your plant and only flush at the end your plant will suffer while it is growing and won't produce the results you're aiming for. Salt build up can also lead to deficiencies and lock outs.

-Supa

after i read this it seemed so obvious. I'll start checking runoff now i guess:party0033:
 
I think sway is right... try raising your nutrient solution up to 7.0. That should help with your nutrient availability, especially Cal. & Mag.* if your soil is too acidic*

18961d1233691960-complete-guide-sick-plants-ph-pest-troubles-ph-nutrient-availability.gif
 
putem in a bigger pot 3 galon/12 ltre they shud be good 2 go, maybe a bit of a prune
they look root bound. if its not that in hydro keep the ph at 5.7 and get a kelp seaweed product to mix with water and spray the leaves foiler they'll appreciate it.
 
Thanks guys...I finally figured it out...Rollin J was correct, I hit them with like 1 1/2 tsp CalMag and they greened right up.

They do need a transplant but I need to flower and these plants stretch crazy so i dont think ill have time before flowering...They hold water for 3-4 days tho..
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
Thanks guys...I finally figured it out...Rollin J was correct, I hit them with like 1 1/2 tsp CalMag and they greened right up.

They do need a transplant but I need to flower and these plants stretch crazy so i dont think ill have time before flowering...They hold water for 3-4 days tho..


word! glad I could help.
 
You should be fine with no L. Karma. Sure that will help a healthy plant be more healthy but is an additive and not necessary for proper base or micro nutrient supply.

I have grown using PBP and calmag with and without LK and both can be done without seeing those problems.

Not sure what it is though...
 
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