My 4x4 build

cottageman · Aug 23, 2019

Hello, I’m wondering currently what are everyone’s thoughts on specifically vero 29 cob’s. I am making a 4x4 light build and I have 2 hlg qb 288 r spec for the middle, and I want to do roughly 4-6 lights around it for a perfect 4x4 light. Do you guys think vero cob’s are as good as the new chilled pucks? I like the cob style of light I’m just not sure if the chilled puck will give me the extra edge compared to the cheaper cob’s. 3500k 90 crib for the cob’s seem like they have more than enough red light without adding red diodes, am I right?

420baby · Aug 23, 2019

Never heard about vero29 COB. For 4x4, is it possible to do 4-6 lights? I can image that would be very crowded.
I was using two Mars SP250 for my 4x4 tent. it is also quantum board design. Like the performance so far.

Mr.jiujitsu · Aug 23, 2019

cottageman said:
Hello, I’m wondering currently what are everyone’s thoughts on specifically vero 29 cob’s. I am making a 4x4 light build and I have 2 hlg qb 288 r spec for the middle, and I want to do roughly 4-6 lights around it for a perfect 4x4 light. Do you guys think vero cob’s are as good as the new chilled pucks? I like the cob style of light I’m just not sure if the chilled puck will give me the extra edge compared to the cheaper cob’s. 3500k 90 crib for the cob’s seem like they have more than enough red light without adding red diodes, am I right?

I would warn against those two in the center. They are great but will really make the center a hot spot. I tried that initially with the v1’s. I’m not running 4 132v2 3000k,4 132v1 (2700 or 2900 totally brain farting) and a single 132 v1 in the center (9x132qb) then I placed 4 48 Samsung red and deep red 4:1 strips in between the boards. This is my flower tent. Just an idea, again I played with the 288 in the center initially and eventually sold my 288 and went all 132 but that’s just me

I also like my controls - going through a potentiometer then a digital multimeter display then to the lights, broken into three zones

Example at 40% power, just reds, partial zones

Couple crappy shots

cottageman · Aug 23, 2019

Mr.jiujitsu said:
I would warn against those two in the center. They are great but will really make the center a hot spot. I tried that initially with the v1’s. I’m not running 4 132v2 3000k,4 132v1 (2700 or 2900 totally brain farting) and a single 132 v1 in the center (9x132qb) then I placed 4 48 Samsung red and deep red 4:1 strips in between the boards. This is my flower tent. Just an idea, again I played with the 288 in the center initially and eventually sold my 288 and went all 132 but that’s just me

I also like my controls - going through a potentiometer then a digital multimeter display then to the lights, broken into three zones

Example at 40% power, just reds, partial zones

Couple crappy shots

View attachment 890203

View attachment 890201

View attachment 890202

Nice setup! and I got the twqo in the center to reduce the hotspot since I am not going to run them at full power(should have said that in the post.) I want to run each qb around 75 ish watts so that both boards equal a bit more watts than just another chilled puck, but spread out over double the area for a bit more spread. I am planning on runing the 4-6 pucks/cob's pretty hard so they hit the edges a much as possible, and run the qb in the middle a bit softer so hopefully I will have slightly better coverage than just doing 1 puck in the middle. I am also leaving space for supplemental boards. I have a red/IR emerson board already, I need a uv board and I will be good, but that will come in time. I am basically taking the new light from chilled and putting 2 qb in the middle instead of 1 puck to hopefully reduce the middle hotspot a bit. I just don't know if I should use the chilled pucks for the rest or high quality cob's like vero or luminus

cottageman · Aug 23, 2019

420baby said:
Never heard about vero29 COB. For 4x4, is it possible to do 4-6 lights? I can image that would be very crowded.
I was using two Mars SP250 for my 4x4 tent. it is also quantum board design. Like the performance so far.

depending on the light it is very possible. Vero 29' are some of the best cob's and are usually sold by timber grow lights. I am basically copying this design and trying to reduce the hotspot in the middle.

This light has 5 pucks and the spread on this is amazing at 24 inches, better than most fluence style lights from what I have seen. I am just going to replace the one puck in the middle with 2 qb that draw roughly the same watts, if not a bit more

Mr.jiujitsu · Aug 24, 2019

cottageman said:
depending on the light it is very possible. Vero 29' are some of the best cob's and are usually sold by timber grow lights. I am basically copying this design and trying to reduce the hotspot in the middle.

This light has 5 pucks and the spread on this is amazing at 24 inches, better than most fluence style lights from what I have seen. I am just going to replace the one puck in the middle with 2 qb that draw roughly the same watts, if not a bit more

Mmmm that’s a nice light. Still im
Surprised that the specs don’t blow my light away, but the 132qb are pretty nice for the money

QB132 Board Guide

High efficiency boards designed for Horticulture Lighting projects. QB 132 Boards can be powered upto 75 watts. QB132 are 36V and can be used with standard drivers(HLG-185H-C1400, HLG-240H-C1750) used for CXB3590. Ideal for use in grow tents or grow area with reflective walls and grow spaces...

horticulturelightinggroup.com

cottageman · Sep 3, 2019

Decided to do this for my build since I was short on time. Just need to buy the drivers and put it together with some aluminum angles, can’t wait to see it perform!
4x Atreum 4’ bars (120w per bar)
2x qb288 from HLG, gunna run them 100-120w per board

MarsHydroLED · Sep 22, 2019

4x4, 2pcs, Mars Hydro SP250, great choice, you won't regret it!

MarsHydroLED · Sep 22, 2019

Welcome to Mars Hydro Giveaway, chance to get the SP250, any interest of competition with your new Atreum light?

dokgonzo · Sep 23, 2019

Mr.jiujitsu said:
I would warn against those two in the center. They are great but will really make the center a hot spot. I tried that initially with the v1’s. I’m not running 4 132v2 3000k,4 132v1 (2700 or 2900 totally brain farting) and a single 132 v1 in the center (9x132qb) then I placed 4 48 Samsung red and deep red 4:1 strips in between the boards. This is my flower tent. Just an idea, again I played with the 288 in the center initially and eventually sold my 288 and went all 132 but that’s just me

I also like my controls - going through a potentiometer then a digital multimeter display then to the lights, broken into three zones

Example at 40% power, just reds, partial zones

Couple crappy shots

View attachment 890203

View attachment 890201

View attachment 890202

with a light board that thick do you ever get issues with air circulation? im just imaging the area dead center under and above the light getting poor ventilation. i dunno

cottageman · Sep 23, 2019

dokgonzo said:
with a light board that thick do you ever get issues with air circulation? im just imaging the area dead center under and above the light getting poor ventilation. i dunno

the board is extremely thin, with the heatsink its like 3 inches tall. I never have a fan above the fixture so air circulation is not a problem. my fan is next to my plants, not straight above it

cottageman · Oct 2, 2019

Here it is all hung up and light up! Just some wire management and I’m all done

420baby · Oct 8, 2019

cottageman said:
depending on the light it is very possible. Vero 29' are some of the best cob's and are usually sold by timber grow lights. I am basically copying this design and trying to reduce the hotspot in the middle.

This light has 5 pucks and the spread on this is amazing at 24 inches, better than most fluence style lights from what I have seen. I am just going to replace the one puck in the middle with 2 qb that draw roughly the same watts, if not a bit more

Nice hand work. If i have the ability, i would also like to build my own quantum board light. It is one of the reason that i choose well-built SP250.

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