OK home and had a few drinkg but going to go over the basics
. Sog will be a good option how may plants are you looking at?
I trust the intake and exhaust will be adequate for to control humidity and temps. However i recommend using a controller such as ink bird to look after those for you. I run a sealed co2 injected room with complete control over environment. with out Co2 it much easier like your setup. Something like this would benefit you
I did some quick searches on your kit. I'm not a fan of the AN PH perfect nutes as others may chime in on them. I suggest using RO water with these nutrients and nothing else. I see they gave you PH up and down. You will not want to you these or any other addatives with PH perfect line. After this grow I would pitch them and get something else(we can discuss later). Adding things like PH up/down or cal mag will cause you all sorts of grief with these nutes. So put your PH pen away.... it pains me to say that.
Now seedling and clones. I see you have what look to be like 2" net pots. Not a fan but lets not go into that. Put 1-2" of your hydroton on the bottom then place your peat pellt/rapid rooter on top then fill the rest of the net pot with your hydrop ton. Important not to allow for light to pass through your net pots into your solution, this may cause algae growth and issue going forward. If you need you can use tin foil,
panda film etc. over the net pots to prevent this.
Air temps: so you have no IR spectrum with you current light which means in order to get leaf temps of ideally 75F you will need an air temp of about 80-82F for best photosynthesis rates. I use a INKbird temp controller with a heater to accomplish this. I understand this is your first grow and maybe you dont want to spend the extra money but we can discuss this further if thats the case.
Ideal water temps. 77F now before other lose their shit on me because its not the norm let me explain. If you are running
hydrogaurd (properly) you have nothing to worry about. The actual ideal temps for growth are 77F now i run mine at 75F because i dont want to bother heating. For those wondering why im recommending such a high temps its because growth is increased. But most hydro growers invest in chilllers and run at 68.... there is nothing wrong with this and the reason is because of the bacterial growth and reproduction rates. at 68F you have days to react and fix root issues due to bacterial infections. Now with a temp of 77You have maybe 24 hrs to react. So its a choice optimal growth rates or a bigger cushion to react. I have found that if you are running
hydrogaurd (top feeding and half dosing reservoir) I have no had a single issue with pythium (root rot) and shown increased growth rates substantially with a temp of 75 over temps of 68. But understand that with these higher temps when shit goes wrong it goes wrong fast... and i always recommend a new grower works with the lower temps.
Lighting: With your lighting if anything its not going to be enough. I recommend using an app called "light meter" by my mobile tools dev.
seedling clones for the first 2 wekks 5-10k lumens.
After that is week 1 veg 10-15k and increasing by 5-7.5k a week. Others do this faster especially when transition indoor to outdoor. I find this works for me.
At flower you want 40K lumens plus over the canopy for ideal conditions.
I feel with sog you can get 6-8 plants and veg no more than 3 weeks in your setup possibly earlier. By Veg i'm not counting the time (first 2 weeks) to root clones or seedlings.
If you can afford an IR temps gun it will save you a lot of headaches. Use the surface setting and take the temps from the recommended distance, If you can get leaf temps of 75F this is ideal for photosynthesis. Again if you dont have or cant afford we can work around it based on plat response.
Air Stones/ water level : you want your air stones directly under the net pots. The water level should be about 1" below the net pot so that the bubbles breaking the surface are splashing the bottom of the net pot once the roots hit the water you can lower this to 2" and later i the grow you will see that the amount he plants drink will require daily top ups.
PPM's:This is guideline and will change based on equipment and environment and strain. This is my recommendation to you based on your equipment and an 8 week strain but these may need some tweeking
Seedlings/clones 100-150ppm (first 2 weeks)
Veg week 1 300-400pm
week 2 400-500ppm
wekk3 500-600ppm
flip to flower week 1 600-800ppm
weeks 2-6 800ppm
week7 500ppm
week 8 300ppm
Again plant response will dictate the actual ppm but i feel in your setup with you light this should be close.
Hydrogaurd I would recommend to anyone in hydro. its not cheap but its invaluable, if anyone here has tried to run a system without being sterile and without beneficial bacteria i'm sure they will tell you root rot is no joke.
How to mix nutrients: in most cases the nutrient are added then ph'ed down to 5.8 ish and are left to drift up to about 6.0-6.1 before being readjusted. I cannot stress enough with PH perfect nutrients to just mix and add measuring ppm and not PH. I honestly hate these nutes but it is what it is. add nothing but the nutrients in the ratio's supplied by the manufacturer. However the manufactures amounts or concentrations will be higher than you require, i can tell you that based on you lighting and equipment. its likely to be about half the doses. They imprtant thing is to keep the recommended ratios in line.
I have had a few drinks so i will let that digest and see if you have any questions or if i wake up and say to myself wtf was i talking about. Can give more info tomorrow
... now the hard part begins ....watching and learning your plants and developing your "style".
