This one is not for begginers! Looking for the experienced!!!

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Migrower

Migrower

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Run down: Khaos Kush elemental seeds. 720W of lm301 diodes,12_18 above canopy,peat n perlite,drain to waste,GH Flora Nova grow n bloom plus Cal msg slilca tribus floralicous plus sugars liquid koolbloom super thrive. I have my nutrients dialed in I believe actually switching to jacks321 starting next feed. 25 days into flower. Vegged and trained about 13 weeks.

So as you can see I have some very light green growth on stems that are purple. The issue is these are only on one top of two plants and the rest of the plant is healthy with green stems,rocking out. These have been this way about 3 weeks the whole time in flower actually. As you can see the effected tops are not growing as nice as others. Less trics and not as large flower sites. This happened one grow before to half a plant but came out of it 3 weeks into flower. This has got me stuck. I thought maybe just stress or maybe calmag issue but I have a bit extra calmag for a few feedings and nothing plus the rest of the plant shows no signs of deficiency. Please all opinions are welcome!!!!
 
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Seraphine

Seraphine

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Peat and perlite, right? So that would be treated as a soilless medium.

Based on your info, it appears to be sulfur deficiency. Here’s why: a sulfur deficiency causes young leaves to turn lime green/yellow and veins remain green. Leaf stems and plant stems get purple streaks and become woody. Sulfur deficiency occurs when pH is too high or when there is too much calcium.

To fix: I would use an inorganic sulfur fertilizer such as Epsom salts. Lower your pH to 5.5 - 6.0.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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No expert here.

First check your floor temps as this is now winter. Cool root zone will affect nutrient uptake.

Second thats a lot of pk added. This will have an affect on other nutrient availability as can cal mag. Adding supplements is only beneficial if you see a deficiency that is actually cause but not enough of that element imo. You are changing the nutrient ratios quiye a bit by adding all those. You may want to look at just cutting the supplements out and going back to what you were using before all this started.

Ph could be a possibility.

I would start by breaking down the nutrients and seeing what kind of ratios you are ending up with. It may paint a clear picture to the culprit

Just my thoughts.
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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I agree, a lot of supplements in that nutrient line up. IMO most of the people who have problems like this also have a ton of supplements too. Too many additives can cause more harm than good. Keep it simple like @Aquaman said and only add supplements when needed. Stick with a basic NPK nutrient like jacks 321 and a cal/mag supplement since you’re soilless. You’ll like jacks 321. I use the masterblend line with is basically identical to Jacks 321.
 
Migrower

Migrower

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Ok a little more info. I ph my flower nutes to 6.3-6.5 I do not always add in all my supplements every feed. Like super thrive one feed every 20 days endind week 5 of flower. Plants are off the floor and again this is only happening to a few select tops on only two plants of seven. And sarraphine actually sounds very spot on with symtoms. But wouldn't the whole plant be like that.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Ok a little more info. I ph my flower nutes to 6.3-6.5 I do not always add in all my supplements every feed. Like super thrive one feed every 20 days endind week 5 of flower. Plants are off the floor and again this is only happening to a few select tops on only two plants of seven. And sarraphine actually sounds very spot on with symtoms. But wouldn't the whole plant be like that.
Because mobile and immobile nutrients are different. New growth will be immobile and older growth will be mobile. This is because with mobile nutrients the plant can rob them from older leaves to prioritize new growth. Unlike immobile nutrients like calcium.
 
Migrower

Migrower

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I completely agree, I haven't even been using the calmag much bieng as the GH grow has it . Silica once a week tribus I like to use every feed. That is amazing stuff I really noticed a trichomes difference and root growth is amazing. I mainly use the macro nutes providing micros and supplementing once or twice a week every 2-3 feeds. I agree with the not overfeeding. But making sure they have what they need. I have magnesium sulfate from the Jack's recipe I could use. Recommend a dose per gallon.
 
Migrower

Migrower

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Because mobile and immobile nutrients are different. New growth will be immobile and older growth will be mobile. This is because with mobile nutrients the plant can rob them from older leaves to prioritize new growth. Unlike immobile nutrients like calcium.
Understood
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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Because mobile and immobile nutrients are different. New growth will be immobile and older growth will be mobile. This is because with mobile nutrients the plant can rob them from older leaves to prioritize new growth. Unlike immobile nutrients like calcium.
Sulfur immobile too which is why new growth show symptoms first.
 
Migrower

Migrower

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You all rock. I got a camera now so I can start to post some more content. I knew Id hear from all the regs. Great info thanks.
 
Hidd3nGr0w

Hidd3nGr0w

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Hey Migrower, I think Seraphine is spot on. I was going to post this in my other thread, but I think its more applicable here.
1


You can see the purpled woody stem and all the nice green new growth now. The plant is still in veg not flower which may make a difference, but I do not think so. I mixed 1 tbls. Epsom salt with 1 gal water ph between 6.5 and 7 (I use liquid ph checker not a pen), and did a 1.5 liter heavy water as well as a heavy foliar spray. Came back the next day with straight water only, same ph foliar spray, which I am still doing thats why you see the grey lines in the leaves
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Sulfur immobile too which is why new growth show symptoms first.
Yeah the only reason I don't think its sulfur is he is adding it with thise supplements. And it's not really affected by any of the supplements he is adding. But that does not mean it's not just feel it's lower on the list of probability.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Hey Migrower, I think Seraphine is spot on. I was going to post this in my other thread, but I think its more applicable here.View attachment 920161

You can see the purpled woody stem and all the nice green new growth now. The plant is still in veg not flower which may make a difference, but I do not think so. I mixed 1 tbls. Epsom salt with 1 gal water ph between 6.5 and 7 (I use liquid ph checker not a pen), and did a 1.5 liter heavy water as well as a heavy foliar spray. Came back the next day with straight water only, same ph foliar spray, which I am still doing thats why you see the grey lines in the leaves
Sure it wasn't the magnesium?
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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The reason I am leaning towards sulfur is because sulfur is immobile and the symptoms match his. If it were magnesium, the symptoms would be present on the oldest/lower leaves first.

The symptoms are presenting themselves on the new growth, if I read the original poster right.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
The reason I am leaning towards sulfur is because sulfur is immobile and the symptoms match his. If it were magnesium, the symptoms would be present on the oldest/lower leaves first.

The symptoms are presenting themselves on the new growth, if I read the original poster right.
Yes and i feel its micro deficiency caused by hi P. high P effects iron and zinc (both of which are immobile so it shows up in new growth) uptake and i'm kinda feeling like this is the issue but again it could be sulfur. Now the Magnesium in Mg sulfate will lower the availability of P and in turn can correct what was thought to be a sulfur deficiency if that makes sense
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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I think dialing back his nutrients to just the basics, adding epsom salt and keeping the pH to 5.8-6.0would correct it. The original poster didn’t indicate what the pH had been, unless I missed that bit of info.

@Aquaman would you agree?
 

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