Superb, thank's again. All this help means so much , my chest already feels a lot of weight lifted off, restraint/doing nothing is my favorite answer where I can finally sit back and think about something else for a bit

Can now finally start looking into my own journal showcasing the good and bad and then hopefully just enjoy the ride until the next one...!

Sooo.... I guess I got a little ahead of myself once more... Mainly referring to the spots on TG1 but also the clawing on ZG2 and generally the signs they are showing.

Since last time, I waited until top soil was dry, watered on the 04/20 and proceeded to water with 50% Tap (Left 24h to dechlorinate) + 50% RO as instructed, I did somewhat deviate in PHing the mix to 6.3 which lead to testing the run off that came up at around PH 8+ (Noted each individual PH), they then received another water approx 30minutes later of the same 50/50 mix at 6.3 (I guess I panicked), the solution running out was also very dark which caused even more distress. Tested again each individual run off and took notes, some lowered to ~7 some still ~8.

I then proceeded to leave it at that, feeling quite satisfied at that point, I thought they were getting better so didn't want to go full crazy on them.

Fast forward a couple days I started noticing some new signs on 3 to 4 of my plants, while all the others had started expanding nicely.

Humidity + Temp has been kept to fairly nicely, between 26oC and 29oC, 60% and 70%, my temperature/hygrometer's max has recorded a bump at 30oC but couldn't seem to find when.

Light has since been raised again (24h ago).

My thinking has been that all the plants to the right and especially the ones in the ''stream of RO humidity'' seem to be affected, I hadn't really thought this through but realised this morning that my humidifier had been pumping it's stream of humidity right by essentially these 2 front plants where during the 18h ON period it seemed to get worse, yet stabilize while the lights were off (I remove the humidifier for cleaning).

Tent is now fully closed with air only coming through the two side vents and the humidifier placed in a more suitable position.

I also tested the soil's PH by taking a sample set in RO water at a 1:2 ratio left for 30minutes, took another reading at 1hr coming up with a 7.4 reading (Meter was recalibrated prior)

Any thoughts on what to do next? Any tips in general? Watering will probably come tomorrow or after tomorrow and was considering doing something similar again, soil seems still quite hot as I've been getting a little leaf tip burn on most plants.

Since all this I've started saving PH In & Out values, ranking and measuring height for each individual plant, created a table where I record Temp and humidity hourly & from multiple sources (from surveillance cam, turned off during lights out), and generally being a lot more thorough about everything I do, revising and noting a precise process so info will be coming in throughout these next few days in much more depth.

Also received my bluelab EC testing Pen, and tested my tap water: PH 7.2 , EC 0.5 , PPM 250

The arsenal has also increased:
Feather Meal:
Blood Meal:
Marine Guano: NPK 12-9-2
Bone Meal:
Crustacean Meal:
Lava rock powder: Lava Rock Powder 50%, Basalt Powder 50 % / Silica 44 %, Magnesium 13%, Calcium 11 %, Other :(Potash, phosphorus, iron, zinc, boron...)
Oyster shell meal:
Insect Frass:
Kelp Meal:
Bat Guano: NPK 1-10-1
Worm Humus:
Advanced N Mother Earth Tea:
Advanced N Ancient Earth: Leonardite, humic, fulvic
Advanced N Tarantula: Various Bacillus & Arthrobacter globiformis
Advanced N Voodoo Juice: Various Bacillus
Advanced N Iguana Juice: alfalfa meal, bat guano, fish meal, sulfate of potash, Fish base, krill extract, yucca extract, kelp meal and alfalfa extract. NPK: 3-1-3
Advanced N bud factor X:
Advanced N Piranha: Trichoderma, glomus, rhizopogon, pseudomonas
Advanced N Nirvana: alfalfa meal, earthworm castings, humus, seaweed extract
Advanced N Sensizym

I know that's a lot... I Panicked at the beginning of the month and well... If I don't end up using any of that then that's just that, I'll think twice about it next time. I do want to eventually make my own supersoil which does now sound quite daunting now and test out some stuff though... But yeah...

Hopefully you guys will be able to shed some light on this affair, meanwhile I'll try and perfect my basics!
I'll also do my best to update my own Diary which should reflect the situation in more depth.

Thanks again.

Lemme toss two pennies in here. :)

Cannabis is a hardy weed.
That means it will grow well if you simply allow it to do so.
Helicopter parenting is the main cause of newbie failures.

Our job, should we choose to accept, it is to provide what they need.
Just that, nothing more.

Enough light, enough root room, air circulation, basic elements, water, yadda yadda. 60% RH is jus' fine, 30% RH is OK too. They handle excess heat with increased transpiration with if there is sufficient air circulation.
Odds are that your water has Chloramine, not Chlorine, as a disinfectant.
It will not dissipate if left out, or boiled. What will dissipate is dissolved air.
Fortunately, Chloramine is not harmful to plants. So. shake it vigorously just before application to up it's percentage of dissolved air. But waste no time letting it stand stagnant.
Then, stand back and watch it thrive. It wants to do just that.

Here's the main message;
More than enough is too much.
Lemme repeat that for those of us on meds. :)
More than enough is TOO much.

Guide them with a subtle hand, but allow their internal magic to come through.

This bud porn? I poked a seed into a bucket of dirt, (FFOF), on the porch, got it wet, then got out of the way.
Gave her water when she asked, bought her new shoes as she grew.
She became just as sweet as her pampered peers, yah?

I'm just sayin' relax brah, and let it happen. Mamma Nature is on our side.

Aloha and grow on,
Weezard

I'm the type of grower that would probably benefit if I let my plants get stressed more. Personally I think it's best to start from a position where you're barely giving the plants just enough to bring out their best. This is mainly in relation to the feed. I think the only environmental stress I'd be interested in is cold. Anyways, balance is the key to all things. If you pay too much attention to your plants you would be better served easing that up a bit, same for the opposite.


On my current grow the plants have never seen ppm readings greater than 500 their entire life. I'm actually gonna start overfeeding (week 7 F).Not going too crazy just aiming for around an 800 avg and will see how they take it. There is such a thing as good stress for plants, however, that shouldn't be looked into until you can grow the healthiest plants possible first.

Cheers for the insight Wee zard, to be entirely honest that’s exactly what worries me most, although I’m super thorough with my note taking I only act upon after some time... I’ve grown quite a few things in my lifespan with exactly that mentality saying hey it’s nature let it be... But here I’ve got something I had never seen before that gets worse every day even with what seems to be ideal external conditions... It‘s been demoralizing to open the tent and see a sick plant..

If anything I’m worried I might have gone to simple, they’ve only really had water and their basic soil mix which is what’s causing the confusion...

the various powders etc are mainly to mimic a Fox farm bag of soil, at least look to do the Sub cool’s super soil has I have a thing for organic culture, when you look at the recipe without it all broken down it looks a lot simpler, I also thought about trying out some of these things in the garden...The advanced nutrients was more of a rather foolish promise I had made to myself when I was much poorer.

And indeed my first scare that lead to getting the reverse osmosis was for chloramine, but I have since checked twice with regulations and it is indeed chlorine.

Thanks for the advice in any case, I do try to remind myself of that, I have just been educated to address things this way..

What worries me right now is that it looks as if something’s been eating the leaves...

I’ll update soon!

Here comes the update, as I had figured it's now starting to spread to the plants on the left side, which I'm guessing came in later since there's more forceful air movement coming from that side, the plant first and most affected being closest to the stream of air but also I would touch it whenever I open the tent to reset the temp/hygrometer which could of been the point of introduction (If this is a pest)

While looking closely I did notice something flying/jumping around but couldn't get it or really tell what it was... it looked as if it had wings nonetheless and only seemed to see one after a good 30minutes watching.

Next I discovered these tiny white ''lumps'' that could be removed with the fingers and seemed organic (they would squish to a paste), unfortunately I have no magnifying glass and my microscope isn't with me...

We have also had fungus gnats in another plant up to a couple weeks ago (sticky traps only caught two in the room so far), have noticed red spider mites and other pests outside... But mrs wicked and I have always been very careful about hygiene and pest control in & out of the house and the grow room, nonetheless nothing can be avoided 100% even for the most careful.

On the other hand they have gone through a fair amount, with the light stress caused by the lamp being to close & set to 600w, the fact they have been given straight RO water a couple times, then only RO-Tap and gotten more than they needed, the signs of overwatering, sudden PH change (Last watering) unstable humidity & temps, the PH of soil coming out much higher than expected even in a soil that should buffer down (Which if I'm understanding right could be excessive biological activity and or an incompatibility between my plant and its soils biology) and lastly possible transplant shock (although this was nearly three weeks ago).

I'm starting to think it's a bit of a mix of everything. or let's call it the steep learning curve.

On the other hand after last times issues they have been globally doing better, the more the soil dried out the better they were looking, this time it's quite the opposite, most look rather normal and healthy, except these few with their symptoms that seem to be accelerating day by day.

I'm just trying to stick to basics now. Water when needed, with correct PH and EC, using tap water and temps + humidity have been maintained very close to 26C / 65%.

(Might not be able to see the white lumps as uploading the photos reduce their resolution)

And then.... a thrip fell from my hair.... I guess there’s my answer...

too much water let those pots dry out and the 600 might be a bit too much
try watering a few pots each day to keep the amount of humidity in there down
Also if there is humidity in there before lights come on it might singe some of the plants leaves
My advice get a LED

Dump that 20 dollar hood. You really need an air cooled hood. Your enviro will be way more stable if you control the temp spikes using air cooled hood.

SmokerBwah said:

Dump that 20 dollar hood. You really need an air cooled hood. Your enviro will be way more stable if you control the temp spikes using air cooled hood.

Click to expand...

Air cooled come on man what is this 2002?

LED bro

LED sucks dude

What are you a tent grower ! All I do in tents is go camping

Guys... I sincerely appreciate the advice and will be looking into both of these alternatives but if you want to have a battle about LED vs HID would you please take it elsewhere?

Sorry wizard

Yae i used to use mh and hps, and yea it is dry but i switched to led bc of the heat and energy used, aside from telling u to go led, i used to run my ac, as 4 ur low rh i have been watering very lightly on a dayley basis plants are fine but about a week behind.

Yeah I knew of friends running their 600w in a 3x3 tent and thought oh I'll be fine, mine's bigger... ohh how I was wrong... But I had already started looking into LED's and CMH mainly for the spectrum, I know... I'm vegging with a HPS... My GS was out of MH bulbs and expected this dual spectrum to have some more blue than it has not realising the investment I would end up going through I thought it would do for now.

The main issue I've had really with the temps was not correctly venting the air out and blowing air right into the batwing... Following everyone's advice here, with the raised bed, better placement of the fan etc I'm now in a much more comfortable space, same thing for the RH that luckily kind of sorted itself out.

Actually ordered LEDs and an air-con unit in the process fearful of the summer temps, this was some time ago before deliveries took a hit, fingers crossed it'll work out alright. This way if anything happens it will be my fault

And with the plant count I have I thought best case scenario I get to turn the room into a full fledged grow while being able to still grow the healthiest ones inside the tent.

Thrips are easy. Their life cycle is the key.

Flyers lay egg on the leaf bottoms. The larvae hatch and chow down.
Then they drop to the soil, burrow in, and the real damage begins just like Fungus gnats and Root aphids.
The thrip larvae go through 7 instars underground, eating root tips all the while.
Then they hatch pregnant flyer that lay eggs on your other plants.
The fix for all three is surprisingly easy.

Costco unscented dryer sheets laid on the soil surface will catch Thrip wigglers and hold them until the dry up.

But wait, there's more.

You said you saw what looked like a couple fungus gnats. That means there are thousands of larvae noshing on roots. (They don't release flyers until it gets crowded underground.)

Dryer sheets actually repel them. I have seen them head for the harem, and pull a hard U-turn.
The surfactant waxes that soften our clothes is what sends them packing. It also repels other "scent hunters" Like cockroaches and yellow jackets.

The surfactant waxes do wear off, so change the sheets every 30 days.
Even if you forget they still make an excellent barrier for thrip larvae and others flyers that lay eggs directly in the soil.

Ready for some mo' betta news?
The scent does not affect, or remain, with the plant.

I throw one under the kitchen sink every month and no longer pay an exterminator to "control" German cockroaches.

Don't just take my word for it.
Try it, they are dirt cheap.
You will be very pleased.

The bad news. They do not repel whitefly. :(
So no discard your sticky traps.

Aloha,
Weeze

Wee Zard said:

Thrips are easy. Their life cycle is the key.

Flyers lay egg on the leaf bottoms. The larvae hatch and chow down.
Then they drop to the soil, burrow in, and the real damage begins just like Fungus gnats and Root aphids.
The thrip larvae go through 7 instars underground, eating root tips all the while.
Then they hatch pregnant flyer that lay eggs on your other plants.
The fix for all three is surprisingly easy.

Costco unscented dryer sheets laid on the soil surface will catch Thrip wigglers and hold them until the dry up.
View attachment 966042
But wait, there's more.

You said you saw what looked like a couple fungus gnats. That means there are thousands of larvae noshing on roots. (They don't release flyers until it gets crowded underground.)

Dryer sheets actually repel them. I have seen them head for the harem, and pull a hard U-turn.
The surfactant waxes that soften our clothes is what sends them packing. It also repels other "scent hunters" Like cockroaches and yellow jackets.

The surfactant waxes do wear off, so change the sheets every 30 days.
Even if you forget they still make an excellent barrier for thrip larvae and others flyers that lay eggs directly in the soil.

Ready for some mo' betta news?
The scent does not affect, or remain, with the plant.

I throw one under the kitchen sink every month and no longer pay an exterminator to "control" German cockroaches.

Don't just take my word for it.
Try it, they are dirt cheap.
You will be very pleased.

The bad news. They do not repel whitefly. :(
So no discard your sticky traps.

Aloha,
Weeze

Click to expand...

I use my Daughters hair dryer if I get thrip or mats i just turn it on med and dry out the suckers the nets wings dry fast thrip don’t like it either you can yes a blue stick trap for thrip like the yellow one it a good way to monitor.