If its root aphids better start throwing everything under the kitchen sink at it. Get a good Pest management cycle going of 2-3 chems. Get some
acephate 97up (orthene raw ingredient) spray some on top of plant where curls are as it works systemic. also spray a touch around top of soil. if its fungus gnats or something in that category id just say mosquito bits. If you suspects its root aphids id say pray its not
Phylloxera outright
. But if it is something that wont go away and persists go
acephate 97up and treat it. Will be one of your best chances in a regiment. if its above ground ones they arent too bad to treat. but the true root aphids can suck. Which people can often confuse when dealing with fungus gnats. Usually though its just fungus gnats. Which can be their own pest above and below the soil. So if its fungus gnats. go straight to a top dress of the soil and use something like mosquito bits. Skips the rest of the stuff below.
Im not sure what did this. but im treating this as potential aphids as well as pythium. But pythium can come as a result of the infestation. So could be either or.
went from this
to this, almost over night
if it is something attacking it. That would explain the top leaves. as was my case compensating nutrients that dont overcome the deficiencies should have been my first indicator of infestation or fungus. if i was paying proper attention to the plant.
So dont be like me and take any chances. Ive been hitting them with figurative napalm because im 40% positive whatever killed that plant is in every plant. The products i was using that should treat all of that. While not following the proper schedule and i allowed gaps. Was not fully killing whatever it was. Which the lapse and my bad maintenance can make them more evil and stronger *in a sense. As it can make that treatment less effective long term. So in good management i added more into the rotation. But
acephate 97up in some studies when applied properly same as more expensive chemicals has super high effective rate of killing it. Doesnt remove the white wax covering on the roots, but short of an insecticidal dunking of the roots or several soaks. Nothing does til it goes away after a few weeks after killing the root aphids.
I dont think its root aphids killing mine, but if it is... the regiment im using will definitely knock em out. Hopefully sooner rather than later. You can also compensate with rooting hormone to encourage new root growth during treatment. I used KLN on all of my plants as you would a transplant soak. Just to be safe because of the potential root damage to get new ones going.
if its like mine and in the soil directly. Be sure you use enough pesticide at a proper concentration that you really get the soil soaked around the root ball and under. and leave it sit. dont treat then feed and wash the concentration out. if in an air pot or something. Then its not that hard to ensure the pot is completely soaked so not as important. Just dont think 1-2 gallons will do it. On some took 15 gallons before they stopped sucking like a sponge. Use them as directed. The root soak for me was mostly tengard,
regalia,
venerate now with bifin soaked on top of soil and the
acephate for systemic approach. Threw some neem, aloe in there for condition and oil approach. may be overkill. But dont want to lose them all. My approach is largely because i cant find what im fighting.
whatever it is, the treatment is working because these leaves were yellow and came back. *note white specs are from treatment, not mites. :)
So keep up the fight and stay diligent. I truly hope its not root aphids or something crazy that becomes a persistent pest. This is my first year in this new spot and i took the gamble in the woods. Best of luck and keep on farming ;)
