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Hydroton and (3) 1000w Lights w/ 4x8 Table

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Hydroton and (3) 1000w Lights w/ 4x8 Table

KushMaster707 39 Replies 12,073 Views
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I miswrote that, I have tried the methods, I was saying "no" to the methods being what I was talking about. I have used growrocks and lava recirculating 24/7 on tables, I liked it but it was not worth its weight getting rid of it, I have also done 6inch cubes, 6in cubes with coco mats, coco in smart pots, hempys with 50/50 coco perlite. they all yeild pretty close to the same. its more aobut plant density, strain, I would consider C02 before another light. but the light isnt going to hurt anything I just wouldnt expect to get another pound plus from it

you should consider trying 100% perlite the smart pots watering 24/7, cheaper and lighter to get rid of and allow for finer root development
 
MedicalInfo:

Not a problem at all.

Unfortunately, there is no real solution, because as you & I stated it is "alive" and it will do it's thing like it would in nature.

Pro Silicate is a great additive, as it adds the much needed silicates into the plant's structure strengthening its molecular matrix, and to boot it also adds to the dry final weight and with pathogen/bug resistance :) I would start out at half the recommended strength and then gradually go up to full strength. Start using it the 2nd week of Veg all the way through until at least Week 5 of Flowering. It is also a natural pH up. Set your pH to 5.6 and let it drift to 6.2ish and then pH down again to 5.6. You'll be golden.

Hope that helps.

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
 
I went from 3 lights 2-400 and 1-1000 getting 3.5. Went with 2-1000 got 4.5lbs. All with 12 plants. 7x4 table. I tried to put a 3rd 1000 or even a 400 but i could not keep it cool. If you can keep it cool, veg under bloom power for 5-7 days I dont see any reason why you wont be lookin at 8-12 0z plants. You will get some monsters that will love that light! Go big!
 
Ph on the Rise

Kind Man,

The ph is back up :(

I must not have leached the hydroton enough. My direct runuff from a 12oz cup took my solution from 5.5 to 5.9. So as the days go by my solution is being replaced by runnoff that keeps getting higher and higher from the hydroton.

They need to be transplanted from 3/4 gallon plasitc pots in to 3 gallon buckets and in to doubleds medbuckets.

I am planning on rinsing the shit out of the new hydroton and soaking in 5.4 for 24 hours.

Removing as much of the old hydroton from the rootmass as possible without damaging roots, transplanting, and placing my drippers around the outer edge of the 3 gallon pot dripping over the ph balanced hydroton.

Is this going to work, It would break my heart and pocketbook to have to start over.

What do you think is the best base nutrient for ph stability. Are the aqua flakes no good with all the airation.... I here thats a myth

thanks
 
I went from 3 lights 2-400 and 1-1000 getting 3.5. Went with 2-1000 got 4.5lbs. All with 12 plants. 7x4 table. I tried to put a 3rd 1000 or even a 400 but i could not keep it cool. If you can keep it cool, veg under bloom power for 5-7 days I dont see any reason why you wont be lookin at 8-12 0z plants. You will get some monsters that will love that light! Go big!

I would love to see some pics of a 4.5# table
 
mrdiz. - Honestly, it was unexpected for the most part. plants got huge quick. Flowered at 12in and they ended up 4+ ft. Picture a plywood table w/ 2x12 for side walls sitting bout 16in off the ground. Had top drip goin with the plants in hydrotron. I cut some 4 gal square buckets in half for the plants to sit in. All cramed in a small little space with the 2 1000 on top. Started co2 @day30. The monster bush was a snazzleberry2 that was 12oz.

But if i could put another 1000 in there I would! I would expect if he aded the 3rd1000 at least a lb would find its way in somplace for sure.
 
MedicalInfo:

My direct runuff from a 12oz cup took my solution from 5.5 to 5.9

Definitely sounds like you did not wash your hydroton well enough to get the excess build up off of them. Info on how to wash them is in this thread.

A drift between 5.5 - 6.5 is wanted in your watering solution, as only certain nutrients are available in certain pH's. I wouldn't be too worried about it in that range, if it goes over, pH it down.

As for transplanting... I would not try and take any hydroton out of the root mass or try and play with it at all. Just transplant it in the new sterilized hydroton.

GH makes really good nutrients that have good pH buffers already in them to keep them in range. But so do most other manufacturer's. I would just stick with a synthetic line of nutrients and you should be good to go.

Ahh pH maintenance, the joys of a hydro system with no buffers :) Just gotta learn to go with the flow...

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
I would fill some trashcans and soak the hydroton in 5 pH water. I install gate valves on my trashcans so they can drain easily. Then you can put a filterbag for airless painting on your rez return. No sense in losing a week to clean your system. The right balance of A. Nitrogen and nitrate N. will help with your drift. JK
 
Jalisco Kid:

Thank you, I wasn't aware that Ammoniacal Nitrogen and Nitrate Nitrogen had a role in pH balance. But now that you say that I was thinking and when you have excess nitrogen in solution it blocks phosphorus, which helps bring down pH, while raising K, which brings pH up, through the Cation Exchange. Interesting... Learning something new everyday :) Thanks again J.K.

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
 
KINd Man, Thanks again... Although it sucks that my hydroton wasn't cleaned, I'm excited to have pinpointed the problem. I have been going mad trying to fix it.

Transplanting I am gong to be very carefull, but anything the roots arn't holding on to I'm gona let fall off.

I'm going to stick with the aqua flakes line since I have it and have been running h&g's cocos for a while now. Is there anybody out there recirculating Aqua flakes??? It would be nice to know.

JKID... So if I were to add a small percentage more of my A then B. It would help with the ph?


I'm going to wait it out. I plan on transplanting in the next few days.


THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
 
I would fill some trashcans and soak the hydroton in 5 pH water. I install gate valves on my trashcans so they can drain easily. Then you can put a filterbag for airless painting on your rez return. No sense in losing a week to clean your system. The right balance of A. Nitrogen and nitrate N. will help with your drift. JK


Are the filter bags for airless paint at HOme depot? Is this a more effective way then using the window screen like D's does?


thanksforyourtime!
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
Are the filter bags for airless paint at HOme depot? Is this a more effective way then using the window screen like D's does?


thanksforyourtime!

They are at HD for about 1.99 and my are 5 years old.Just ask for a strainer bag for an airless.I have a friend using them to keep out gnats on his buckets also. JK
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
You might have something else going on. I monitor a few patients grow that use those AF nutes. They do not have those drift problems. Try mixing up your nutes 36 hours ahead of time. Then pH your solution as you dump it into your rez.JK
TK has some grows using AF as well
KINd Man, Thanks again... Although it sucks that my hydroton wasn't cleaned, I'm excited to have pinpointed the problem. I have been going mad trying to fix it.

Transplanting I am gong to be very carefull, but anything the roots arn't holding on to I'm gona let fall off.

I'm going to stick with the aqua flakes line since I have it and have been running h&g's cocos for a while now. Is there anybody out there recirculating Aqua flakes??? It would be nice to know.

JKID... So if I were to add a small percentage more of my A then B. It would help with the ph?


I'm going to wait it out. I plan on transplanting in the next few days.


THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
 
JK,

I've been chatting with tk, got some good info.. thanks

I'm stoked about those bags, I hate fungus gnats
 
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

I have had a few pm's from farmers about washing their hydroton. I'll give you a break down in more detail:


Take a small trash can (33 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck is perfect) and cut 4 to 6 4" holes in the sides as far down to the bottom as you can go and cover each one of them with mesh cloth or mesh wire. If using the mesh wire, make sure the holes are small enough so the hydroton doesn't fall through them. Fill the trash can with the hydroton and put your garden hose into the trash can and wash the hydroton for a good 30 minutes each time, doing this 2 - 3 times, making sure to get as much silt and junk off as you can.

When you're filling your growing pots with the hydroton, give it a good soak before putting them in the pots as this minimizes more dust falling off during potting.

After that I would take your base nutrient(s), say an A & B or 3 part, and mix it to 500 or so ppm and add hygrozyme to it and run that mix for a week prior to planting, pH'ing it as needed and keeping it within the right range (5.5 - 6.5). Over time (could be a week could be 3 weeks) the pH will naturally stabilize out.

Make sure to put a sediment filter for the water that goes back into the reservoir to collect any debris that might cause any problems.

To minimize all these problems you could go to drain to waste using a 70/30 mix of hydroton/perlite using 2 gph pressure compensating dripper's with a 4 port manifold on it so 4 drip stakes go to each plant. Each dose is metered to 126 mL of solution per minute of on time, so you can conserve the water you're using and totally get rid of the headache of fluctuating pH since it isn't recirculating. A good base line to start out watering is a minute on every 60 to 80 minutes while lights are on. You will use a little bit more water, but life is much simpler.

Also, make sure that you do not over use nutrients, as the relationships between the N-P-K-Mg-Ca-S highly determine what your pH can be. Say you have more Ammoniacal Nitrogen in solution, you're pH can go down. If you have more Nitrate nitrogen in solution your pH can go up since the releasing of the OH- ion from the nitrate into solution. Say you have too much phosphorus in solution your pH will go down. You have too much potassium in solution your pH will go up. Now put it all into perspective, as an example, say you have too much nitrogen in solution, it affects Phosphorus uptake which in turn affects Calcium uptake which in turn affects Potassium uptake which can lead to a raising of the pH. There can be numerous different variables using the N-P-K-Mg-Ca-S relationships that could affect your pH. Jalisco Kid had it straight on point.

9.9 out of 10 times if there is a problem use less, not more, because a lockout of something is occurring causing toxicity's & deficiencies & pH imbalance.

Hope this helps everyone!

The Kind Man
|Scientia Ipsum Est Vox|
|Knowledge Itself Is Power|
 
Thanks kind man.. I'm going to have the worlds cleanest hydroton.
 
Just IMO.
1. Ditch the hydroton
2. FUk the Hydroton
3. Never look back
4. Listen to Kind man
5. Go drip to WASTE
6. Fuk Recycling nutes..
7. Rock 3 1ks
8. Get some Cali connect Og
9. Go BIG OR GO HoME..
Ive had a few peace out!!


Yeah if you wanna drain to waste your freakin money
Recircluating drip is awesome. Listen to KindMan he is right

I run 15 mins on every 3 hours and my plants go nuts
Full hydroton feed recirculating into and from a reservoir

Learn about microbes and how they improve nutrient uptake, as well as manage your reservoir cleanliness for you.
Gold
 
Hydroton Drip

kindman,

Is there something comparable to roots accelerator that won't mess with my ph? I was considering CANNA'a rizotonic... but is that "alive"?

What do you know about GROTEK's PRO-silicate? Will this mess with my ph. I believe it is totally synthetic

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME :)


Microbe life
Photosynthesis Plus
For the win
 
To further note as Kind Man stated you'll need to rinse the hydroton to stabilize it as well as soak it in a nutrient bath at half strength.

Beyond that yes absolutely as the plant uptakes different nutrients it causes the ph to change. The relationship between nutrient ions and Ph is one worth studying.
I like to change res weekly to help with this issue, proper reservoir size helps ALOT

Beyond that using a nutrient line specialized for cannabis helps also. There are few. Check out dynagro and AN altho I know people have moral issues with AN it is a super simple line to use and all of the micros are chelated which means no PH monitoring

Chelated=easily uptaken at wider PH range= advanced nutrients PH perfect line and the lack of ph monitoring

Just DONT check on. You'll be a madman dosing the reservoir with ph buffers and destroying your ppm and throwing away nutrients.

Im in full hydroton drip and my plants love their 6.7-7.0 ph reservoir
 

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