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I’m don’t know w to do.. and I scared 😭

  • Thread starter Thread starter CurtisBlow916
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I’m don’t know w to do.. and I scared 😭

CurtisBlow916 85 Replies 6,669 Views
Page 3 of 5 · Replies 41–60 of 86
#43
ComfortablyNumb said:
No. But after much testing, I have found the best reading for this model. It is also made by one company and sold to resellers that put their own names on them so it's pretty consistent.
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Fair enough. I have one too but I never use it because I found inconstancies. I test specifically by weight as that is a measurement that is guaranteed.
 
#44
XhibitA said:
Fair enough. I have one too but I never use it because I found inconstancies. I test specifically by weight as that is a measurement that is guaranteed.
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The inconsistencies are because of the soil, not the probe. As the probe moves thru the soil, the water retention properties change and therefore the readings. We watch the meter fluctuations as we push into the center of the pot. If it is mostly in the correct range, we will water. If it is wildly variant, then we wait. And you need to probe from the sides, not the top.
 
#45
ComfortablyNumb said:
The inconsistencies are because of the soil, not the probe. As the probe moves thru the soil, the water retention properties change and therefore the readings. We watch the meter fluctuations as we push into the center of the pot. If it is mostly in the correct range, we will water. If it is wildly variant, then we wait.
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Cuts from the same cloth my friend. I just measure differently is all. 🤗
 
#47
XhibitA said:
See how people fight over water and humidity. The shit is not an art and everyone does it differently.

Listen to your plants but listen to what these guys say 😎. Their input is also valuable.
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I’ve got a solid humidifier that keeps it at about 60-70 when lights are on so when all’s said and done I’ll be doing more of a SOG technique to keep a short veg time and higher plant count, with the garage being strictly for veg and the back house for flower
 
#48
GNick55 said:
your main issue is the temp..
get your environment correct, everything temp, humidity, airflow.. etc before screwing with your nutrients..
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Exactly w I was thinking.. I’ve been living by that right now just trying to get it dialed in.. I had it for a minute there but with winter coming in I’ve got to do a whole re calibration 😂
 
#51
Higher quality pictures
 

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#53
GNick55 said:
yep totally the temperature ( your environment needs to be dialed in better) she won’t eat properly, growth will stop/slow.. her immune system is weaken.. etc..
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Totally. The cupping of the leaves are not just on the top, but all through it. It's going into hibernation mode. The first pix didn't show that.
Crank that heater up and get some insulation in the garage. You're going to have this issue until you do.
 
#54
Hey. You can leave the lights on 24/7 to fix the temp problem. Didn’t catch if they are autos or photos. If autos then grow the whole cycle 24/7, but if photos then a heater will be necessary when you flip with those temps. I never let mine get below 62 on lights out. I would definitely start there and not mess with nutrients yet. They are definitely very scrawny for their age and that’s what will happen if your environment is off as mentioned earlier. One big advantage with autos vs. photos is being able to run those lights as heaters also!
 
#55
You have nute burn most likely. Lay off the nutes for awhile, let them mellow brother. The same thing had happened to me with tip burn from over nutes, my plants recovered and we're healthy... Less is more w nutes it's a weed..... The water isn't really your issue. However temp changes can be a problem, going from 80 to 50, But methinks it's the nutes. Are you using grow bags so the roots get oxygen?
 
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#56
And I didn’t see a mention on the ph? Number one reason why a plant will not get the correct amount of nutrients. I grow dwc and soil. I use general hydro nutes trio. I also only use my tap water also, which runs about 275 ppm. General hydroponic trio, some cal mag and hydrogaurd. I like to keep it simple. I run the trio at half strength at most and don’t have any nute problems. I check my ph about every other day and very seldom do I have to adjust it. The light you are using at 30 inches and half power is not even a threat to burn those teenagers. Was it lower before?
 
#57
Growinginil said:
And I didn’t see a mention on the ph? Number one reason why a plant will not get the correct amount of nutrients. I grow dwc and soil. I use general hydro nutes trio. I also only use my tap water also, which runs about 275 ppm. General hydroponic trio, some cal mag and hydrogaurd. I like to keep it simple. I run the trio at half strength at most and don’t have any nute problems. I check my ph about every other day and very seldom do I have to adjust it. The light you are using at 30 inches and half power is not even a threat to burn those teenagers. Was it lower before?
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I water in with at 6.2-6.5 and when I check the runoff it’s usually around 6.5-6.8 and the lights were at 2 1/2 feet until recently
 
#58
AngryPossum said:
You have nute burn most likely. Lay off the nutes for awhile, let them mellow brother. The same thing had happened to me with tip burn from over nutes, my plants recovered and we're healthy... Less is more w nutes it's a weed..... The water isn't really your issue. However temp changes can be a problem, going from 80 to 50, But methinks it's the nutes. Are you using grow bags so the roots get oxygen?
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Yea there in 1 gal fabric pots.. it’s just weird how it seems like as soon as I started watering w purified water they are showing stress/deficiencies
 
#59
Growinginil said:
Hey. You can leave the lights on 24/7 to fix the temp problem. Didn’t catch if they are autos or photos. If autos then grow the whole cycle 24/7, but if photos then a heater will be necessary when you flip with those temps. I never let mine get below 62 on lights out. I would definitely start there and not mess with nutrients yet. They are definitely very scrawny for their age and that’s what will happen if your environment is off as mentioned earlier. One big advantage with autos vs. photos is being able to run those lights as heaters also!
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All are photos and I’ve got a nice heater in there now and lights on temps never go below 75 now
 
#60
you have multiple issues going on so it will be hard to narrow down exactly which one/ones are causing you grief
Start with the most advantageous - temps. At 45°F, you stress the roots and plant kind of stops growing. Nutrients fail to upload from soil to the plant...this is WINTER!
SO many use heaters to heat up an area, but you have to heat up the tent and do it in a way that does not make hot spots and cause heat stress to plants or parts of plants
Personally, I do LIGHTS on at night, it helps keep the tent warmer when the temps are going down. Get something more between the plant containers and the floor...like a dish mat for absorbing water, they insulate the container (and thus keep roots warmer - cold floors, especially cement, transmit the cold right through to the plants roots). The plant itself can handle colder but the roots cannot.
I went on Amazon and purchased BLACK CERAMIC (can be on at night and not cause light issues)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4TDZR3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got 150w and 250w bulbs and hang them from the ceiling rods. Turn one on at a time to see what the temps wind up being...do not want to get over 80°F...best is 70-75 and colder when in flower 60-70.
It is easier to stay warm during the day tan night which is why I run lights at night, dark in the day except for the heat lamps
Once you have the temps and RH (it will change because of the heat lamps, then you can work on the substrate - feeding (strength and types of nutes and watering (how often)
 
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