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Calmag deficiency? Or nutrient burn?

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Calmag deficiency? Or nutrient burn?

Fro5ty 38 Replies 8,242 Views
Page 2 of 2 · Replies 21–39 of 39
#21
I'm not familiar with the lights you're using but I'm assuming they're LEDs? If that's true and your light is 4 - 5 inches away from the plants, that would be much too close.
 
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#22
jguit said:
I'm not familiar with the lights you're using but I'm assuming they're LEDs? If that's true and your light is 4 - 5 inches away from the plants, that would be much too close.
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Did you watch the GIF I send? It are a 600W, 630W and 900W LED. The second GIF with the text about it being close to the light, is at the 600W light.

I'll add a new photo in q half hour, when the lights go on in the room.
 
#23
So I’m changing the water while I’m typing this. The K deficiency seems to be spreading. I’m gonna add some photo’s, together with the ones to show how far that one bud is from the light.



I added some grow part for extra K last minute. EC is at 0.9 and pH at 5.5 (will rise when in the system)



Like you will see on the photo’s m. I have a lotof wires because my branches keep falling over. Even the ones that are straight up, seem to fall over after a while. That one branch in the first GIF in the imgur link isn’t even visible on the photo’s because it fell, and I just let it hang. Are falling branches a symptom of something?


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89CB7285 F94D 4DB4 B9A8 D3A92A520B36
BFAF0BFB 7020 42C7 ACB6 28E58E8C8A68
EE97A603 F6CC 4582 B767 ABDFC25F4C10
 
#25
jguit said:
Too much light.
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Why? Beside some N tox signs, I see nothing wrong with the bud that’s closest to the light. In fact, the bud is growing fastest of all buds… I really don’t have any room to bend it to.

I also learned that weak stems/branches are from the K deficiency
 
#26
Maybe someone else will have other suggestions but if i ever see the edges of my leaves turning up and know my feed is light (you said .9 EC, yes?), there's not much else I can think of. I don't use GH nutrients so i can't really suggest anything other than following their feed schedule. I don't know what style of hydroponics you're growing in but if you're able to have a look at the roots, that might be helpful. Other than that, I really don't know. Honestly, lowering the light intensity seems to be a no brainer. Is the EC of your reservoir rising or falling? pH?
 
#27
I usto ammend my soil with gaia green and was new to ammendments I thought feeding mother plants once a month or so was cool and relax but shortly realized I might have over fertilized and and other small details these photos is how I diagnosed N toxicity.... some genetics are dark green as and others more light I'd say if over time they turned dark that may be a sign but always a true sign is when the leaves turn waxy and they droop from the middle so might be over feeding a lil and rust spots might be a calcium deficiency not familiar with hydroponics
 

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#28
jguit said:
Maybe someone else will have other suggestions but if i ever see the edges of my leaves turning up and know my feed is light (you said .9 EC, yes?), there's not much else I can think of. I don't use GH nutrients so i can't really suggest anything other than following their feed schedule. I don't know what style of hydroponics you're growing in but if you're able to have a look at the roots, that might be helpful. Other than that, I really don't know. Honestly, lowering the light intensity seems to be a no brainer. Is the EC of your reservoir rising or falling? pH?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input. I will decrease the lights. Kind of counter intuitive since they're now producing buds.

But you might be right. 0.9EC isn't a lot. Couple of weeks ago they could handle 1,1 and were eating more. Then EC increased and I have lowered it to 0.8-0.9. pH always rises when I put new water in (5.5>6.2 pretty instantly). After that it normally increases. Last days, before todays water change, I closed of my tank from the main pot to fill the tank (I have RDWC) and as the water level dropped in RDWC, pH increased from 5.6 to 5.8. EC from 0.9 to 1.0 in 2 days.
 
#29
Your plants will tend to start eating less during flower. If both your pH and EC are rising, you could probably lower your feed EC by .1. Sometimes this stuff IS indeed counterintuitive. Haha

Have you done a complete reservoir change? Might also be something to try.
 
#30
jguit said:
Your plants will tend to start eating less during flower. If both your pH and EC are rising, you could probably lower your feed EC by .1. Sometimes this stuff IS indeed counterintuitive. Haha

Have you done a complete reservoir change? Might also be something to try.
Click to expand...

What reservoir are you talking about? My 260L water tank that feeds the RDWC, or the RDWC itself? When I do a water change, I pump the water out till it's right above the airstones. Then I dump 20L of the new water in with a bucket. Let it pump out again till right above the airstone, repeat. Then fill the RDWC again with the new water. And every 3 waterchanges I make sure to empty the watertank (not the RDWC) completely and wipe it with diluted h202. I leaf 40L in buckets to feed the RDWC by hand for 3 days.

When I refill the RDWC, I do it with buckets till they are half full. This is to speed it up and reduce stress. When pumping the water out, 90% of the roots are above the water for a good 15-20m. If I would let it fill true the floater, it would take hours to fill the RDWC.
 
#31
Fro5ty said:
Thanks for your input. I will decrease the lights. Kind of counter intuitive since they're now producing buds.

But you might be right. 0.9EC isn't a lot. Couple of weeks ago they could handle 1,1 and were eating more. Then EC increased and I have lowered it to 0.8-0.9. pH always rises when I put new water in (5.5>6.2 pretty instantly). After that it normally increases. Last days, before todays water change, I closed of my tank from the main pot to fill the tank (I have RDWC) and as the water level dropped in RDWC, pH increased from 5.6 to 5.8. EC from 0.9 to 1.0 in 2 days.
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this is correct and you need to maintain the rez. When water levels fall nutrient levels increase. ph gets more acidic and when you add tap water it will come back to proper readings and it will show how low your ec is. That is because the plant is eating nutrients. at your stage you should be at about 1.5ec lights 2ft away at 100%.,
 
#32
Fro5ty said:
And every 3 waterchanges I make sure to empty the watertank (not the RDWC) completely and wipe it with diluted h202.
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stop killing the beneficial bacteria. You do not need to clean with every water change. Hell, i just upped my rez everytime the water level was down. I changed the rez water twice a month and sometimes in summer when i was busy, I wouldn't even change it. Just mix more nutrient and top it. You need beneficial bacteria for the rez to be stable.
 
#33
PK1 said:
stop killing the beneficial bacteria. You do not need to clean with every water change. Hell, i just upped my rez everytime the water level was down. I changed the rez water twice a month and sometimes in summer when i was busy, I wouldn't even change it. Just mix more nutrient and top it. You need beneficial bacteria for the rez to be stable.
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There are no beneficial bacteria in my watertank… I typed it out as clear as I could. There is no airstone in my water tank. If I don’t clean it, it will smell like death after 3 weeks! Again, Reservoir is NOT my RDWC system. I don’t use the word “reservoir” to make it clear in my comments, the difference between my main-pot and my watertank.

my tank is connected to my main-pot. No water that touches my plants, can go back up in the water tank. Still the watertank will get clusters of stuff that lay on the bottom or float to the surface. I was told these are dead bacteria from the Hydroguard that die because there is no oxygen in my watertank. That’s why I clean the tank out every 3 waterchanges.
 
#34
O
PK1 said:
this is correct and you need to maintain the rez. When water levels fall nutrient levels increase. ph gets more acidic and when you add tap water it will come back to proper readings and it will show how low your ec is. That is because the plant is eating nutrients. at your stage you should be at about 1.5ec lights 2ft away at 100%.,
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I can’t higher my lights anymore. And bending the top branches isn’t really an option anymore to because they will jut cover other branches.

at this point. I’m contemplating to cut off all the top branches… lowering the light density makes no sense now. They are now lowered to 75% and I saw NO grow in the buds whatsoever in the last 24h. It doesn’t make any sense to lower the yield of the entire grow, because 5-6 branches are to close to the light….

I used to see the buds grow day by day. Especially the ones closest to the light. Last 24h, nothing.
 
#35
The only way you're going to know how much light is hitting your plants with any amount of certainty is with a meter. Otherwise, we're just guessing. There's free lux meter apps for your phone but i've never used them personally. Perhaps someone can suggest a good one. Besides the 5-6 branches you mentioned, how close is the rest of the canopy? You could always try to bend the branches that are close out of the way. I've had to do that on a few occasions as well. You invested time and money into your grow, lighting is something you should get right.

So here's what we know about your grow so far.

Temps: Unknown
Humidity: Unknown
pH: 5.6 - 5.8
EC: 0.9
Light: Unknown
Pests: Unknown
Tank stinks after a while - not aerated

I've done RDWC buckets before but not on the scale as yours. I have no idea what is what's going on inside of your filling tank. I'd be concerned about the smell and funk but I've never had to maintain a tank that large so I personally don't have any advice. That said, I dont remember my DWC buckets ever smelling foul and wouldnt use water that smelled bad but my system was small and i'd do fresh water changes when needed. What is your filling tank's water temperature? This is something that definitely needs to be maintained if you aren't already. I would 'think' this should be aerated as well but i defer to the RDWC experts if this is necessary. More oxygen couldnt be a bad thing? Is your tank just stagnant water w/ nutrients and hydroguard? That cant be good.

If you're not using any beneficial bacteria, running a sterile system might be something to look into.

Have you tried running fresh nutrients NOT from your potentially stagnant smelly cruddy filling tank?
 
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#36
jguit said:
The only way you're going to know how much light is hitting your plants with any amount of certainty is with a meter. Otherwise, we're just guessing. There's free lux meter apps for your phone but i've never used them personally. Perhaps someone can suggest a good one. Besides the 5-6 branches you mentioned, how close is the rest of the canopy? You could always try to bend the branches that are close out of the way. I've had to do that on a few occasions as well. You invested time and money into your grow, lighting is something you should get right.

So here's what we know about your grow so far.

Temps: Unknown
Humidity: Unknown
pH: 5.6 - 5.8
EC: 0.9
Light: Unknown
Pests: Unknown
Tank stinks after a while - not aerated

I've done RDWC buckets before but not on the scale as yours. I have no idea what is what's going on inside of your filling tank. I'd be concerned about the smell and funk but I've never had to maintain a tank that large so I personally don't have any advice. That said, I dont remember my DWC buckets ever smelling foul and wouldnt use water that smelled bad but my system was small and i'd do fresh water changes when needed. What is your filling tank's water temperature? This is something that definitely needs to be maintained if you aren't already. I would 'think' this should be aerated as well but i defer to the RDWC experts if this is necessary. More oxygen couldnt be a bad thing? Is your tank just stagnant water w/ nutrients and hydroguard? That cant be good.

If you're not using any beneficial bacteria, running a sterile system might be something to look into.

Have you tried running fresh nutrients NOT from your potentially stagnant smelly cruddy filling tank?
Click to expand...
bending the top branches, will just cover other branches. So that’s not an option. Like I said, the only options are cutting them or lowering the light density and with that cutting the overall harvest of all branches.

I notice that the biggest branches, closest to the light, their pistils stay white and the buds less dense, in comparison to the ones right below, who’s pistils have turned orange and the buds are a lot denser. I will add photos later.

Temps: 19C-30C
Humidity: 40%-55%
lights: 600W,630W,900W
Pests: no signs since week 2 of grow. Clones had spider mites. Released phyto-mites. Twice, to be sure.

and yes. My water tank is just stagnant water with nutrients. And yes. If I don’t clean it every couple of weeks, it will start to stink. I can not put an airstone in. I have closed off all my remaining openings for airstones with Tec7, to seal them off or all the air would have just gone true the non-taken openings. This is why I clean my tank every 3 water changes with h2o2.

If my tank stinks, I add h2o2 and shut it of from the RDWC. I add Hydroguard with each water change and only when h2o2 has worn out (2 days). Smell disappears after adding h2o2.

why would I add nutrients directly in to the RDWC? That wouldn’t make any sense. It costs time for the RDWC to mix it then instead of the tank slowly feeding it at a steady rate (aka, mixed instantly). My plants would have EC swings for hours when I add it manually. I’m sorry but I have no time to add nutrients for an hour on a daily basis…
 
#37
Wattage of your lights doesn't mean much. You need a measurement of the amount of light hitting your canopy but it is starting to sound like a potential issue with management of your fill tank. You should still optimize your lighting regardless.
Fro5ty said:
why would I add nutrients directly in to the RDWC? That wouldn’t make any sense. It costs time for the RDWC to mix it then instead of the tank slowly feeding it at a steady rate (aka, mixed instantly). My plants would have EC swings for hours when I add it manually. I’m sorry but I have no time to add nutrients for an hour on a daily basis…
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I only mention adding fresh nutrients to your RDWC just to rule out the FUNK in your filling tank.

Every parameter of your grow needs to be balanced if you want a successful grow. It's obvious something isn't right with yours. Maybe someone who has experience with a bigger RDWC setup can give better advice but i think you need to optimize your lights and get your filling tank situation in check. Everything else seems reasonable. You didn't mention the temps of the feed water in your filling tank or in your RWDC, for that matter. Water temps are definitely important. Is your feed tank in the same space as your grow? I'm sorry, optimizing a grow space takes time, patience and 'usually' money. That's just the way it is.

I hope you're able to figure it out, we can only give suggestions. It's a process of elimination. Best of luck!

*edit* another parameter not discussed is your source water. Tap? RO? If tap water, what's in it? Starting ppm, etc.. I always recommend getting a water report to know what you're dealing with.
 
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#38
jguit said:
Wattage of your lights doesn't mean much. You need a measurement of the amount of light hitting your canopy but it is starting to sound like a potential issue with management of your fill tank. You should still optimize your lighting regardless.

I only mention adding fresh nutrients to your RDWC just to rule out the FUNK in your filling tank.

Every parameter of your grow needs to be balanced if you want a successful grow. It's obvious something isn't right with yours. Maybe someone who has experience with a bigger RDWC setup can give better advice but i think you need to optimize your lights and get your filling tank situation in check. Everything else seems reasonable. You didn't mention the temps of the feed water in your filling tank or in your RWDC, for that matter. Water temps are definitely important. Is your feed tank in the same space as your grow? I'm sorry, optimizing a grow space takes time, patience and 'usually' money. That's just the way it is.

I hope you're able to figure it out, we can only give suggestions. It's a process of elimination. Best of luck!

*edit* another parameter not discussed is your source water. Tap? RO? If tap water, what's in it? Starting ppm, etc.. I always recommend getting a water report to know what you're dealing with.
Click to expand...
The water temp in RDWC is 19C, I have a chiller. Water in tank is room temp.

For water I use 4/5 RO and 1/5th tap water. Tap water is 0.8EC. When I put tap in my humidifier, the calsium or other minerals are so abundant that they stick to my fans and block the air filter of my chiller. I was working in the room some time ago (still in veg cause humidifier was on) and standing directly in to the "steam" for a couple of minutes. Following day had an inflammation in my nose, that had spread to my throat a couple of days after that, so yeah...

Without a part tap water, my pH was a lot more unstable in the RDWC.

I honestly wouldn't see how my tank temperature and not having an airstone would effect nutrient problems like N toxicity, K deficiency or nutrient burn (the problems that I had so far)
 
#39
Yea, i use a mix of tap an RO myself for the reasons you mentioned. Stabilizes the pH really well.

Again, I've never had to maintain a tank the size of yours but my thinking is that if your tank is stagnate and temperature is high, who knows what kind of crap is growing in there. I really can't offer any useful advice about fill tank management nor am I familiar with GH's flora series feed schedules. It sounds like everything else is within reason.

You really should check your light levels, just to rule it out and optimize it for future grows. Other than that, I have no idea what your issue could be.
 
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