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help! both pH and ppm rise!

  • Thread starter Thread starter tait
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help! both pH and ppm rise!

tait 131 Replies 26,224 Views
Page 4 of 7 · Replies 61–80 of 132
#61
tait said:
positively i got some algae, and definitely some salt build up.
Im gonna use the bleach/ hydrogen peroxide to clean my aero system and flush the hydroton with ro water to hopefully stop those two things
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just remember that some algae are okay and down the road you don't want to do this every time because you want the beneficial bacteria to build up.
Those roots look okay. I do see a bit of the slime you are talking about. What do you have in place to make sure that those long roots don't go in the pump??
 
#63
TryingToGrow said:
That's a cool setup, the graph thing, really nice to be able to monitor your nute solution like that. Not to mention have it all automated, you just plant a seed and come back in a few months?

Anyways, if you are using city tap water like me, mine is 300ppm 7.7pH, absolute trash water, not really good for anything. I will pH my water down to 5.5 pH and then, next day it is 7.0 pH again. I can pH down the stuff down like that for at least a week, before it seems to calm down a little bit. I am thinking about taking some bark and putting it in a sock and then put that into the res to buffer the water so it will stay lower with less vinegar used. Also looking for other ideas, that one I found on an aquarium forum and responding to your post made me think of it again.

If you come up with any solutions please share.

Forgot to say another thing I have heard but not tried yet is if you are using tap water or similar, is to cut it in half (or whatever fraction is necessary), with rain, r/o, distilled, etc. to lower the ratio of whatever is causing it to rise so quickly.
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So far my solution for the matter was to buy 12qt of hydrogen peroxide and run it through my system, this was my check list
9BB02DA4 145D 48A1 8130 CE110A6AB6D0
 
#64
Hey, never mind what i said above. I didn't know you were running with H2o2. @tobh this is your thing brah
 
#65
so, don't use the dollar store 3% h2o2. it's what's called stabilized h2o2 and will fuck with your pH. You need lab grade 29% or 34% h2o2. I use alchemist brand liquid oxygen. it's cheap and incredibly effective. for the algae you need to seal any light leaks and sterilize all your gear to ensure you eliminate all the cultures. if it's grey algae i wish you luck. i've heard of people having to toss entire systems once they got hit with grey algae, it's probably the hardest thing to eliminate other than some particularly fucked up mites.
 
#66
tobh said:
so, don't use the dollar store 3% h2o2. it's what's called stabilized h2o2 and will fuck with your pH. You need lab grade 29% or 34% h2o2. I use alchemist brand liquid oxygen. it's cheap and incredibly effective. for the algae you need to seal any light leaks and sterilize all your gear to ensure you eliminate all the cultures. if it's grey algae i wish you luck. i've heard of people having to toss entire systems once they got hit with grey algae, it's probably the hardest thing to eliminate other than some particularly fucked up mites.
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Aquarium UV lights really help to reduce any algae build up?
 
#67
tobh said:
so, don't use the dollar store 3% h2o2. it's what's called stabilized h2o2 and will fuck with your pH. You need lab grade 29% or 34% h2o2. I use alchemist brand liquid oxygen. it's cheap and incredibly effective. for the algae you need to seal any light leaks and sterilize all your gear to ensure you eliminate all the cultures. if it's grey algae i wish you luck. i've heard of people having to toss entire systems once they got hit with grey algae, it's probably the hardest thing to eliminate other than some particularly fucked up mites.
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did not know
 
#69
PK1 said:
i think i mentioned a few times that you would need to a proper clean with bleach, hydrogen proxies, and few rounds of tap water to wash and remove any bleach or hydrogen peroxide residue. Also, when you are adding your ingredients make sure to add them in order they are meant too. Enzyme is the last thing you do after your ph adjustment.
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I followed your recommendation on cleaning with h2o2, afterwards readding my enzyme once more with my nutes under ~300

luckily it seemed to destroy my algae problem
 
#70
tobh said:
so, don't use the dollar store 3% h2o2. it's what's called stabilized h2o2 and will fuck with your pH. You need lab grade 29% or 34% h2o2. I use alchemist brand liquid oxygen. it's cheap and incredibly effective. for the algae you need to seal any light leaks and sterilize all your gear to ensure you eliminate all the cultures. if it's grey algae i wish you luck. i've heard of people having to toss entire systems once they got hit with grey algae, it's probably the hardest thing to eliminate other than some particularly fucked up mites.
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not grey, orange, luckily.
if i run into it again ill reach for your recommendation instead of that cheap dime shit. I seriously appreciate the knowledge!
And you’re right, my pH is wonky as hell at the moment, not gonna try to over steer and let it do its thing before deciding on what to do next
next is to do as you said and block light growth, planning on painting the lid to prevent anything further
 
#72
so i heard some conflicting results in this thread, for you live system users, what sort of microbes do you purchase and trust?
 
#73
Hydroguard only here.

Veg- calmag, flora trio, hydroguard
flower - silica blast, calmag, flora trio, MASSIVE(pgr), hydroguard in that order

enzymes are cool and all, but not a requirement.

I trust my hydroguard enough to not look at my roots anymore :) I cant get the lids off anyways due to the scrog. But I guarantee they white white, just like after 2 months last grow. Hell my veg tent batch will last 2 full months by just topping it off, only hydroguard.

Southern AG would be my second suggestion.

All this means nothing if people dont fix their system. If you have enough light leaks, or not enough oxygen for your bacteria, the root rot will destroy it. It uses photosynthesis to reproduce unlike your bacteria. . . so yea, you need to have a good hydrosystem first and foremost. I get confused as to whos who and runs what, i just reply lol. . dont really scroll up unless needed.

MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU
 
#74
southern ag is another alternative to hydroguard. has the same bacteria at a much higher concentration so the cost factor is better. personally i don't trust hydroguard anymore. had way too many problems with it, so switched to h2o2. also agree, enzymes are great, if they actually do what they're supposed to. stay away from hygrozyme, that garbage is snake oil.
 
#75
tait said:
so i heard some conflicting results in this thread, for you live system users, what sort of microbes do you purchase and trust?
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I don’t use anything.

About 8 years ago when i started rdwc I was under the understanding that it was to be either live or sterile, so to start, so in went some h2o2, but that just pissed them off. Since then i guess ive been running a "live" natural accruing (good) bacteria.
 
#77
PK1 said:
i would go with southern AG instead of hydroguard. The concentration product is better than a product that has 1000/L of water. lol!
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If i was to use either one, i too would go with southern ag

Edit is there a expiration date on sa? (Because of the concentration does that date come before the jug is empty?
 
#78
smokedareefer said:
I don’t use anything.

About 8 years ago when i started rdwc I was under the understanding that it was to be either live or sterile, so to start, so in went some h2o2, but that just pissed them off. Since then i guess ive been running a "live" natural accruing (good) bacteria.
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haha we've talked about this man. you better share your winings when you win the lottery because you're running on luck or doing something that works and don't realize it. i've not had any issues with h2o2 at all as long as i don't exceed 5ml/gallon. i haven't tried to go higher simply because i know what that shit does to my skin if i get some on it -- it's not a fuck around additive. BUT i also don't run air pumps at all. h2o2 adds all the dissolved oxygen i need.
 
#79
PK1 said:
i would go with southern AG instead of hydroguard. The concentration product is better than a product that has 1000/L of water. lol!
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I plan on making that my next nutrient change. Ill test it in my veg tent before I see how it works in my flower. Im sure im just bias, but honeslty it would be nice to know which colony lasted longer. I used 60ml of hydroguard, roughly 3 or 4$, in 30 gallons, 6 plants and it lasted 2 months, on purpose I didnt top off to see if the colony would last and it did. So when I do try Southern AG, im starting off with that same challenge. gonna google the stuff now lol. . i mean a dollar is a dollar in the end
 
#80
tobh said:
haha we've talked about this man. you better share your winings when you win the lottery because you're running on luck or doing something that works and don't realize it. i've not had any issues with h2o2 at all as long as i don't exceed 5ml/gallon. i haven't tried to go higher simply because i know what that shit does to my skin if i get some on it -- it's not a fuck around additive. BUT i also don't run air pumps at all. h2o2 adds all the dissolved oxygen i need.
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I really think something is going on in a good way. Actually bought a hanna do meter last year but haven't used it as i only run 2crops.

Well water starts at 2100 ppm
 
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