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HELP! Plants wilting and yellowing!

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HELP! Plants wilting and yellowing!

KeytheCaregiver 92 Replies 10,176 Views
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KeytheCaregiver

KeytheCaregiver

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#1
New member here! Just been keeping to myself and exploring the forums past couple weeks.

Some information on the grow conditions
Temp: 80-82 F Daytime
72-74 F Nighttime
RH: was...38-42% (without dehum controllers)
now....45-50%
We have had issues with the ladies adjusting to the Gavita 1930e's after being under stock T5's for veg. We've solved that issue moving forward but we can't decide if these burnt edges/tips are necessarily light burn from the switch or something else entirely.

So far we've come up with possible over-watering of the plants, and cut down on their water intake. They seem to be improving.
Help plants wilting and yellowing

Overhead shot of the same plant. Wilting, serrated edges more pronounced.
Help plants wilting and yellowing 2

Major wilting, yellowing leaves daily, wilting top to bottom.
Help plants wilting and yellowing 3
Help plants wilting and yellowing 4
 
#2
KeytheCaregiver said:
New member here! Just been keeping to myself and exploring the forums past couple weeks.

Some information on the grow conditions
Temp: 80-82 F Daytime
72-74 F Nighttime
RH: was...38-42% (without dehum controllers)
now....45-50%
We have had issues with the ladies adjusting to the Gavita 1930e's after being under stock T5's for veg. We've solved that issue moving forward but we can't decide if these burnt edges/tips are necessarily light burn from the switch or something else entirely.

So far we've come up with possible over-watering of the plants, and cut down on their water intake. They seem to be improving.
View attachment 1270619
Overhead shot of the same plant. Wilting, serrated edges more pronounced.
View attachment 1270620
Major wilting, yellowing leaves daily, wilting top to bottom.
View attachment 1270621View attachment 1270622
Click to expand...
Media and pot size?

Watering frequency, volume, ppm and ph?

Nutrients and or amendments used?
 
#4
Aqua Man said:
Media and pot size?

Watering frequency, volume, ppm and ph?

Nutrients and or amendments used?
Click to expand...

We are using a 30% Coco Coir, 65% Soil, and 5% Perlite Mixture in 9" x 9" plastic pots.

We've been watering every other day roughly 125 gal for 220 plants.

6.0 - 6.2 pH

0.0 EC

Lotus Nutrients, PowerSi Bloom
MacroLogos said:
What's the water & run-off pH?

Last time you fed them, and what?
Click to expand...

We just flushed and has a very high runoff sitting at 3.1 to 4.4 EC, with the pH being on the low end at 5.8 - 6.0.

We flushed them and they returned to normal at 2.2 - 3.0 EC range.

They were fed the day the photos were taken.
 
#5
KeytheCaregiver said:
We are using a 30% Coco Coir, 65% Soil, and 5% Perlite Mixture in 9" x 9" plastic pots.

We've been watering every other day roughly 125 gal for 220 plants.

6.0 - 6.2 pH

0.0 EC

Lotus Nutrients, PowerSi Bloom


We just flushed and has a very high runoff sitting at 3.1 to 4.4 EC, with the pH being on the low end at 5.8 - 6.0.

We flushed them and they returned to normal at 2.2 - 3.0 EC range.

They were fed the day the photos were taken.
Click to expand...
You might try sticking in a hydrometer in different places and make sure the plant is really really dry before you water. Sounds like a lot of plants/work/time. Could use a vigorous trim from bottom 1/3.
 
#6
KeytheCaregiver said:
New member here! Just been keeping to myself and exploring the forums past couple weeks.

Some information on the grow conditions
Temp: 80-82 F Daytime
72-74 F Nighttime
RH: was...38-42% (without dehum controllers)
now....45-50%
We have had issues with the ladies adjusting to the Gavita 1930e's after being under stock T5's for veg. We've solved that issue moving forward but we can't decide if these burnt edges/tips are necessarily light burn from the switch or something else entirely.

So far we've come up with possible over-watering of the plants, and cut down on their water intake. They seem to be improving.
View attachment 1270619
Overhead shot of the same plant. Wilting, serrated edges more pronounced.
View attachment 1270620
Major wilting, yellowing leaves daily, wilting top to bottom.
View attachment 1270621View attachment 1270622
Click to expand...
Your stems are purple,means they aren't eating,let them dry and water sparingly with a mild mix until you see them perk because the roots are likely damaged too,buy a good nute like GH 3 part,then gradually increase water and ppm.
 
#7
KeytheCaregiver said:
We are using a 30% Coco Coir, 65% Soil, and 5% Perlite Mixture in 9" x 9" plastic pots.

We've been watering every other day roughly 125 gal for 220 plants.

6.0 - 6.2 pH

0.0 EC

Lotus Nutrients, PowerSi Bloom


We just flushed and has a very high runoff sitting at 3.1 to 4.4 EC, with the pH being on the low end at 5.8 - 6.0.

We flushed them and they returned to normal at 2.2 - 3.0 EC range.

They were fed the day the photos were taken.
Click to expand...
Ok, so now I'm thinking nutrient lockout was setting in (seems you are too, since the treatment you just applied is the cure for that).

I'm dealing with a single plant in my current grow that nutlocked:
 
#8
Bah... There was more to that post but it posted by accident half finished (the photo upload and post buttons in the app are kind of close), and I ran out of time on the "edit" and lost it...

So here's the jist... like you, I applied the remedy for nutrient lockout 12 hours ago.

This was last night:

20220818 203038


This morning there is slight noticeable improvement. General greening overall, greening on the damaged leaves moving into the yellowed portion, the burn& curl on tips of upper leaves appears to have stopped progressing.

Tonight, I'll post another picture.

I'll leave nutrient adjustment advice to AquaMan and others... you have a large crop and their knowledge of chemistry is more advanced than mine.
 

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#9
KeytheCaregiver said:
We are using a 30% Coco Coir, 65% Soil, and 5% Perlite Mixture in 9" x 9" plastic pots.

We've been watering every other day roughly 125 gal for 220 plants.

6.0 - 6.2 pH

0.0 EC

Lotus Nutrients, PowerSi Bloom


We just flushed and has a very high runoff sitting at 3.1 to 4.4 EC, with the pH being on the low end at 5.8 - 6.0.

We flushed them and they returned to normal at 2.2 - 3.0 EC range.

They were fed the day the photos were taken.
Click to expand...
In organics or soil dont try to use ppm as equivalent to available nutrients.

They are hungry now and id just stay the courses. If you have some immediately available nutrients that are either synthetically or organically derived then id give em a dose next watering.

I think its going to be hard to finish those plants in smaller pots without the addition of available nutrients since with organics they break down slowly and in a small pot that means less available nutrients.
 
#10
sambapati said:
You might try sticking in a hydrometer in different places and make sure the plant is really really dry before you water. Sounds like a lot of plants/work/time. Could use a vigorous trim from bottom 1/3.
Click to expand...
This has been our main focus, thanks for reinforcing!
MacroLogos said:
Ok, so now I'm thinking nutrient lockout was setting in (seems you are too, since the treatment you just applied is the cure for that).

I'm dealing with a single plant in my current grow that nutlocked:
Click to expand...
Yes, I fed the day the pictures were taken and OH MY!

Run-off tested out at 2.8 being the lowest and 4.4 being the highest!

Immediately went to flush and thankfully it looks like some of the additive we put in the mix that frees up the available nutrients actually flushed most of the excess into the runoff which accounted for the high EC.

Normally plants are off by 0.1-0.3 max and then the select few that are still in newish soil so their runoff tends to be a bit on the high end.

Aqua Man said:
In organics or soil dont try to use ppm as equivalent to available nutrients.

They are hungry now and id just stay the courses. If you have some immediately available nutrients that are either synthetically or organically derived then id give em a dose next watering.

I think its going to be hard to finish those plants in smaller pots without the addition of available nutrients since with organics they break down slowly and in a small pot that means less available nutrients.
Click to expand...

What do you recommend as far as testing for available nutrients? I've always taken what I'm putting in (6.0/0.1) and then compared to what the run-off is to figure out when to feed my girls.

Plants are testing out at 1.8 - 2.8 EC still, what makes you say they are hungry now? I use synthetic nutrients (Lotus specifically)

Can you go into detail, we run a hydro mix for the most part to avoid slow nutrient uptake, with the soil to avoid having to worry about plants wilting due to lack of moisture.
 
#11
KeytheCaregiver said:
New member here! Just been keeping to myself and exploring the forums past couple weeks.

Some information on the grow conditions
Temp: 80-82 F Daytime
72-74 F Nighttime
RH: was...38-42% (without dehum controllers)
now....45-50%
We have had issues with the ladies adjusting to the Gavita 1930e's after being under stock T5's for veg. We've solved that issue moving forward but we can't decide if these burnt edges/tips are necessarily light burn from the switch or something else entirely.

So far we've come up with possible over-watering of the plants, and cut down on their water intake. They seem to be improving.
View attachment 1270619
Overhead shot of the same plant. Wilting, serrated edges more pronounced.
View attachment 1270620
Major wilting, yellowing leaves daily, wilting top to bottom.
View attachment 1270621View attachment 1270622
Click to expand...
That and the rich red stems definetly signify sun/light burn. Reds ok but not that red. The leaf burn goes along with the lighting issue, I've so been there. The red never went away but new growth increased exponentially. Turn out to be a great harvest as I adjusted the lights in early flowering. I was removing a lot of leaves as they don't recover so they would go to brown and yellow until It was mostly newer growth. Hope this helps.
 
#12
Mechman60 said:
That and the rich red stems definetly signify sun/light burn. Reds ok but not that red. The leaf burn goes along with the lighting issue, I've so been there. The red never went away but new growth increased exponentially. Turn out to be a great harvest as I adjusted the lights in early flowering. I was removing a lot of leaves as they don't recover so they would go to brown and yellow until It was mostly newer growth. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Yes! I should of mentioned, when we transferred them from Veg to Flower we made a critical mistake and didn't adjust our lighting controller. It was set to 115% for a minimum of 48 hours thus causing the red stem, and countless burnt and crispy leaves. Our veg sits under normal T5 grow lights and our flower sits under 1930e Gavita LED's. We've realized the mistake and don't plan on making it again.

The main reason I posted the thread is the wilting, sad looking leaves which seem to be the cause of over-watering or a weak root system.
 
#13
Maybe you got a lighting confuser instead of controller. Check double check then check again in any transition. Stand in front of mirror and scream !!! Nevah Agin...
 
#14
KeytheCaregiver said:
Yes! I should of mentioned, when we transferred them from Veg to Flower we made a critical mistake and didn't adjust our lighting controller. It was set to 115% for a minimum of 48 hours thus causing the red stem, and countless burnt and crispy leaves. Our veg sits under normal T5 grow lights and our flower sits under 1930e Gavita LED's. We've realized the mistake and don't plan on making it again.

The main reason I posted the thread is the wilting, sad looking leaves which seem to be the cause of over-watering or a weak root system.
Click to expand...
Oh, ok. 3 words. Lol. 5 Gallon growbags. Oh and at least 35% pearlite, If you transplant mine were a bit into flowering and it didn't hurt a thing they slowed down for until the second watering when I fed Fox Farms Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom at 1/2 dose. I never do more, I nute burned before. 🔥
 
Last edited:
#15
sambapati said:
Maybe you got a lighting confuser instead of controller. Check double check then check again in any transition. Stand in front of mirror and scream !!! Nevah Agin...
Click to expand...
Lol, that's funny s*** right there.
 
#16
Mechman60 said:
Oh, ok. 3 words. Lol. 5 Gallon growbags. Oh and at least 35% pearlite, If you transplant mine were a bit into flowering and it didn't hurt a thing they slowed down for until the second watering when I fed Fox Farms Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom at 1/2 dose. I never do more, I nute burned before. 🔥
Click to expand...
What about 5 Gallon Grow bags? I've never transplanted during Flower and really don't plan on doing so, they've done fine in their current pots for many cycles.
 
#17
UPDATE: After a week of light waters and light feedings we are still experiencing the same issue with the droopy/wilting leaves. We let the pots dry out for 2 days before watering again, still not much of an improvement. Although we have Fungus Gnats, which have been known to mimic a lot of deficiencies. With us being in Week 6...we may just let them ride out as the flower looks good.
 
#18
Have pictures of the plants?

Get some BTI (mosquito dunks) and add to the media along with yellow stickies to catch the adults.

Back the lights off as this will only make the problem worse faster.

What nutrients do you have on hand?

Im wondering about the ability of the soil buffering capacity and also if your nutrients contain sources of ammonium. If you can list your soil mix and nutrients i can try to look into this.

Forget measuring ppm. Ph is an issue and we will get to that
 
#19
Aqua Man said:
Have pictures of the plants?

Get some BTI (mosquito dunks) and add to the media along with yellow stickies to catch the adults.

Back the lights off as this will only make the problem worse faster.

What nutrients do you have on hand?

Im wondering about the ability of the soil buffering capacity and also if your nutrients contain sources of ammonium. If you can list your soil mix and nutrients i can try to look into this.

Forget measuring ppm. Ph is an issue and we will get to that
Click to expand...
I'll take a few pictures today and post.

We watered with Mosquito Bites (BTI) 2 days ago, we are letting the pots dry out another day to ensure we don't make the problem worse. Today we did some digging and found that the bottom of the pots is remaining wet even after the top/middle has dried out...with the Fungus Gnat problem persisting, we're assuming they are too far gone at this point (we are at week 6). Root rot is present at the bottom of the pots where they leak through the drainage holes.

We are at 100% on our lights currently, what would you recommend for Gavita 1930e'?

We use the Lotus Nutrient line, PowerSi Bloom, Cal-Mag, and RO water.
Soil Mix: 50% Happy Frog soil, 30% BioCoco, 20% Perlite mix

pH hasnt been stable past week or 2, have had to flush twice in the past 2 weeks to maintain 5.8 - 6.2 range.
 
#20
KeytheCaregiver said:
UPDATE: After a week of light waters and light feedings we are still experiencing the same issue with the droopy/wilting leaves. We let the pots dry out for 2 days before watering again, still not much of an improvement. Although we have Fungus Gnats, which have been known to mimic a lot of deficiencies. With us being in Week 6...we may just let them ride out as the flower looks good.
Click to expand...
Check at the center right under roots. I bet it's wet, it's the most common culprit. It can be very dry everywhere else and dry there. Unless your soil drains extremely well every 2 to3 days is too much water.
 
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