GrimReffer said:

Transplanting will help your growth rates, starting small and working up. Unless they are autos I always transplant. Putting them in the final size pots is most likely part of your issue. It makes watering them more difficult. The amount of veg time really depends on a lot, like what kind of training you want to do and also height restrictions. I would definitely get your plants healthy and growing strong before flipping.

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I just wanna keep it simple as possible..i did wanna make them Bush out a little but don't really wanna stress the plant too much either. Keeping them healthy and growing steady is the main goal

RootsRuler said:

I've grown in practically every medium you can think of and have always gone back to soil. Probably the most forgiving of media.

Definitely need to up the Cal/Mag. Coco is notorious for being cal/mag thirsty.

The first time I grew in coco I had the same problem. I had a soil PH meter so I tested the soil at root horizon and, regardless of my religiously feeding at 6.0, the soil PH was at 4.4......nutrient lockout. I raised the PH on my feedwater to 7.0 and checked soil PH an hour after watering. PH was 5.2. Continued feeding at 7.0 until soil PH leveled out and was able to maintain a 6.0ish PH level. Went to 6.0 feedwater and continued to monitor soil and waste water PH.

As important as it is to have your feedwater at the correct PH soil PH at root zone is just as, if not more, important since this is where the roots live and the interchange of nutrient to soluble nutrient happens. If PH is not where it needs to be it doesn't really matter that your feedwater PH is spot on. The roots will lock it out because conditions are not to it's liking.

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Appreciate the knowledge man!!
What pH soil meter u recommend???

Gdawwwg said:

Appreciate the knowledge man!!
What pH soil meter u recommend???

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Don’t waste your money on one of those probe style ph meters especially in coco.. The best way to get your root zone ph in coco is to make a slurry of coco from your pot and distilled water and then ph your slurry. You should always feed with ph of 5.8-6.0 going into coco. Watch your Ec/ppm of your run off to make sure you don’t get salt buildup which will cause ph to be off in coco.

GrimReffer said:

Don’t waste your money on one of those probe style ph meters especially in coco.. The best way to get your root zone ph in coco is to make a slurry of coco from your pot and distilled water and then ph your slurry. You should always feed with ph of 5.8-6.0 going into coco. Watch your Ec/ppm of your run off to make sure you don’t get salt buildup which will cause ph to be off in coco.

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Also a good method for seeing what's going on down there but I disagree about continuing feed at 6.0

Great, you did your slurry and have now identified the problem. How are you going to be able to fix it with live growing plants? You can't amend the soil with lime or some other amendment that will level out PH unless you're talking about testing and adjusting pre planting.

This is why I grow in soil. Coco and other synthetic media require much more attention in regards to keeping things within spec. Certainly not impossible to get max flower but why make your life harder unless you just like to be on top of your girls? If I'm a large grow op then coco may make sense since all my parameters can be controlled through room pre planning but in a tent it's much harder to control those parameters. One of the reasons most large grow ops use synthetic media like rockwool is because of ease of disposal along with its water holding properties. Media like hydroton can be reused reducing cost. I use Roots Organic Original for my media because it incorporates soil AND coco along with a healthy dose of mycorrhizae. If I have to be away from my girls I know that soil will be there to take up the slack. Granted it's not the cure all but it certainly makes things easier.

I'm not discounting your method because there are a million ways to skin a cat but, having worked in large commercial grow ops, I see a lot of home growers worrying about things that have very little effect on their grow but because the large grow ops do it they just assume that it applies to their grow. Keep it simple, stick to the basics and just use common sense. You'll do best if you stick to this mind set.

OP, Grim is correct in that probe meters aren't the most accurate but, again, you don't need pinpoint accuracy. You just need to know what the problem is and correct it. As long as you stay within parameters your plants will do fine. I use the cheapy probes and they do just fine. Not all that durable but, again, I'm not a commercial grow that depends on their bottom line to survive. I don't need to squeeze every ounce of performance to maximize yields.

This probe should work just fine.....

https://www.amazon.com/MASiKEN-Ther...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

GrimReffer said:

I like to pre buffer my coco with a heavy dose of cal mag and run the cal mag water solution through it until the runoff matches the EC/ppm going in. But after that I don’t use much cal mag, may just be the nutrients I use tho. Never ran the trio.

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Shoulda read through the whole thread. You're prebuffering your coco. Big Yes......

Little update
Pretty happy how these guys are getting on now its been slow. But it's progress so I'm happy.!

Lost track of time a bit so not sure how long it's been cooking but I'm guessing it's been 5--6 weeks since I got them as cuttings.

So iv probably had about 3 bad weeks with no growth. And 3 decent weeks. In future will definately start with smaller pots, transplanting, cal mag etc like all u guys have mentioned so hopefully the start isn't as rough next time round.

Iv topped them like 2 days ago because they were just growing vertical. But a lot of lower growth is all bunched up and not really showing much growth. Is this normal? Can see better on the pic where its a plant on its own.

Any who takes times to read these essay deserves a medal and thanks in advance for any help

OK so these are about to get flipped!

Having trouble with humidity though... I have small dehumidifier outside the tent and larger 1 inside the tent. I have it connected to a controller. It's set to bring it down to 55% but it's always around 80% Mark. Larger dehumidifier only been purchased and added to setup today so hopefully helps.

Also my outtake fan is set to kick on at 65%rh and 85f temp.

I noticed today the leaves are slightly yellowing and have a dry feel to some of them.

Anything I can do to keep it running smooth and rh down. Would hate to have gone through all this just for it to fuck up in the flower phase. Changed to 12/12 just now

The garden looks good!I would have used smaller pots....faster darybacks, more frequent waterings hence faster growth
Also the strain looks like a sativa pheno....with led....dont get too stressed about humidity...if you have to add heat to the room tryn to dehumidify, my suggestion is keep the humidity and stay fresher...
What really germinates mold spores its the condensation from the rapid temp shifts....if you dont have those you wont have mold no matter your RH....believe me i successfully harvvested rooms that reach 90 rh at night....sealed room.....as we speak my babies at 4 week flowering are at 90%RH and its lights off...