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Too much calcium or too little manganese...?

  • Thread starter Thread starter HomegrownOhighO
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Too much calcium or too little manganese...?

HomegrownOhighO 44 Replies 7,307 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 45
#21
HomegrownOhighO said:
I was trying to do this organically, so I started with hp promix and Cali super soil concentrate for autos but started noticing deficiencies during veg and that's when I was introduced to the compost tea. At first it was great and she started to bounce back with the first tea but about two weeks after the first dose of Gaia, I noticed something was off. I'm going to let it keep going but for my next run I'm strictly doing photos, screw autos for now until I become more experienced with feeding, watering, and amendments. So for now it'll just be water. I actually thought about doing a half gallon on say Wednesday and a half gallon on Sundays instead of the whole gallon at a time.
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The more you frequently water the more risk you run of over watering, allow the plant to breath then allow her to drink.
 
#22
climbit said:
The more you frequently water the more risk you run of over watering, allow the plant to breath then allow her to drink.
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Obviously, I would wait for it to dry and weight check it of course but we'll see. I won't be doing much else for the next week though.
 
#23
HomegrownOhighO said:
I was trying to do this organically, so I started with hp promix and Cali super soil concentrate for autos but started noticing deficiencies during veg and that's when I was introduced to the compost tea. At first it was great and she started to bounce back with the first tea but about two weeks after the first dose of Gaia, I noticed something was off. I'm going to let it keep going but for my next run I'm strictly doing photos, screw autos for now until I become more experienced with feeding, watering, and amendments. So for now it'll just be water. I actually thought about doing a half gallon on say Wednesday and a half gallon on Sundays instead of the whole gallon at a time.
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That's sounds like a solid plan, there is no advantage to autos omce you are experienced. They are gimmicky imo. Watering wise since it's not a true living soil I would water more water less frequently vs half gallon 2x a week
 
#25
climbit said:
The more you frequently water the more risk you run of over watering, allow the plant to breath then allow her to drink.
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Agreed. Drying out the soil some isn’t a bad thing and it helps with oxygen flow to the root system with is important from what I understand. The more saturated the soils the less likely oxygen can move through.

Good rule of thumb I use for watering, during veg wait until the plant looks slightly droopy when it needs water and then subtract a day from how long that took and that will give you an idea how often to water. Same for flower mode but wait until the plant actually switches to flower before test that theory. Plants are more thirsty and hungry during mid flower because they are building up buds.
 
#26
LoveGrowingIt said:
I suggested adding Mg to inhibit the excess Ca.


Maybe not. Stressing a plant can improve a crop. It's called "hormesis" in scientific jargon.
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I actually added a tsp of Epsom salt to my water this past weekend so maybe that will help. It is funny you say that because as bad as the plant looks right now, the buds sites look fairly good, imo. They are gaining density and growing in size by the minutes it seems like. This is technically week 6 of flower and I've heard past week 5 they really start to fatten up, I look forward to that.
 
#27
HomegrownOhighO said:
I actually added a tsp of Epsom salt to my water this past weekend so maybe that will help. It is funny you say that because as bad as the plant looks right now, the buds sites look fairly good, imo. They are gaining density and growing in size by the minutes it seems like. This is technically week 6 of flower and I've heard past week 5 they really start to fatten up, I look forward to that.
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How many weeks total bro? From to sprout to where your at now.
 
#28
HomegrownOhighO said:
I actually added a tsp of Epsom salt to my water this past weekend so maybe that will help. It is funny you say that because as bad as the plant looks right now, the buds sites look fairly good, imo. They are gaining density and growing in size by the minutes it seems like. This is technically week 6 of flower and I've heard past week 5 they really start to fatten up, I look forward to that.
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Correct, once you enter the later stage of flowering the plant starts to add bulk to the bud sights and they become more hungry and thirsty during this time.

Sounds like you have done a lot in a short time to correct your issues. Be patient and let the plant dry out slightly before watering again and maybe only water 1/2 gallon next watering then go from there.

Again I would recommend getting slf100 which I believe has really helped my plants in a great way. I use 5mil per gallon almost every watering, especially during the later flowering stages. I use recharge as well but once or twice a month, something total different though.

Amazon.com : South Cascade Organics SLF-100, 1 qt : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : South Cascade Organics SLF-100, 1 qt : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
 
#30
HomegrownOhighO said:
10 weeks this past Friday. Day 39 of flower.
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For comparison. I just harvested Durban Poison at 11 weeks flower/18 weeks total time and believe it could have gone a week longer.

I’m practicing mainline techniques so it takes me longer in the veg stage.

Very happy with the results as a hobby grower
 

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#31
StalkerAF said:
For comparison. I just harvested Durban Poison at 11 weeks flower/18 weeks total time and believe it could have gone a week longer.

I’m practicing mainline techniques so it takes me longer in the veg stage.

Very happy with the results as a hobby grower
Click to expand...
You can be proud of yourself! What an awesome crop.
How much was the dry weight?
 
#32
I.think I commented on another one of your posts. The main problem is your tea. It's mostly N with only a little my microbes. With organic dry amendments you need the microbes to covert everything to food. They make lots of instant teas, Recharge being a really good one but microbe life products work great to, you would want fruit/veg enhancer at this point. Watering is way different with this type of grow also. You don't want to drown the plants but you don't want a total dry back either. It destroys the microbes and food web in the soil. I use 5 gallon pots and the get 1/4 gallon feed every few days but I also use blumats to keep the moisture levels pretty steady. The drip straight water into the pots as the soil dries out.
To ride this plant to the finish you need some microbes right away, add them once a week. Other then that I would say straight water, maybe a tsp of Epsom salts in the next couple waters. See if that gets you to the finish line
 
#33
dreamnfox said:
I.think I commented on another one of your posts. The main problem is your tea. It's mostly N with only a little my microbes. With organic dry amendments you need the microbes to covert everything to food. They make lots of instant teas, Recharge being a really good one but microbe life products work great to, you would want fruit/veg enhancer at this point. Watering is way different with this type of grow also. You don't want to drown the plants but you don't want a total dry back either. It destroys the microbes and food web in the soil. I use 5 gallon pots and the get 1/4 gallon feed every few days but I also use blumats to keep the moisture levels pretty steady. The drip straight water into the pots as the soil dries out.
To ride this plant to the finish you need some microbes right away, add them once a week. Other then that I would say straight water, maybe a tsp of Epsom salts in the next couple waters. See if that gets you to the finish line
Click to expand...
What would you recommend as far as microbes go? Someone suggested the slf 100? I know that's enzymatic but is that different than a microbial amendment?
 
#34
Still looks like a lighting issue to me. The burned leaves are all at the top or side leaves that are directly exposed to your lighting. I don’t care what your meter says, that looks like a plant that is saying it would like a bit less. I would back it off and see if it helps. Even if it is not the source of your issue, reducing light intensity while she gets back into shape is a good practice. It’s like the take two Tylenol and get a good nights rest of growing weed. Just my $.02, but I feel like I have said this before with this plant. Good luck finishing her out. Cheers
 
#36
StalkerAF said:
Correct, once you enter the later stage of flowering the plant starts to add bulk to the bud sights and they become more hungry and thirsty during this time.

Sounds like you have done a lot in a short time to correct your issues. Be patient and let the plant dry out slightly before watering again and maybe only water 1/2 gallon next watering then go from there.

Again I would recommend getting slf100 which I believe has really helped my plants in a great way. I use 5mil per gallon almost every watering, especially during the later flowering stages. I use recharge as well but once or twice a month, something total different though.

Amazon.com : South Cascade Organics SLF-100, 1 qt : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : South Cascade Organics SLF-100, 1 qt : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
What does the slf100 do bro
StalkerAF said:
For comparison. I just harvested Durban Poison at 11 weeks flower/18 weeks total time and believe it could have gone a week longer.

I’m practicing mainline techniques so it takes me longer in the veg stage.

Very happy with the results as a hobby grower
Click to expand...
very well done!
 
#37
HomegrownOhighO said:
What would you recommend as far as microbes go? Someone suggested the slf 100? I know that's enzymatic but is that different than a microbial amendment?
Click to expand...
I use slf, it works well with my line. Recharge is good, photo plus and fruit veg enhancer from these guys.I've shared a Brand Store on Amazon with you. https://www.amazon.com/stores/Micro...=cm_sw_r_apann_ast_store_S723NQC67JFCQRAMHR7V
Photo plus in veg and through week 3 of flower. Fruit veg enhancer starting the week before flip. You can stop adding microbes about 2 weeks before you chop
 
#38
dreamnfox said:
I use slf, it works well with my line. Recharge is good, photo plus and fruit veg enhancer from these guys.I've shared a Brand Store on Amazon with you. https://www.amazon.com/stores/Micro...=cm_sw_r_apann_ast_store_S723NQC67JFCQRAMHR7V
Photo plus in veg and through week 3 of flower. Fruit veg enhancer starting the week before flip. You can stop adding microbes about 2 weeks before you chop
Click to expand...
I think I'm just going to try out the recharge, a lot of ppl have recommended it but in the future, is the microbe life just for hydro?
 
#39
HomegrownOhighO said:
I think I'm just going to try out the recharge, a lot of ppl have recommended it but in the future, is the microbe life just for hydro?
Click to expand...
Nope it's definitely for soil. Photo plus is even a great foliar feed
 
#40
So I ran two gallons of pH'd water through about four gallons of soil. Had approximately a gallon of run off +/-. I took the ppm after the first gallon ran through at 2820 and a pH of 6.0 in the run off. The second gallon was 2300 and pH was slightly higher. Both gallons were balanced at 7 for the flush. I also used slf100 in the 2nd gallon to help with the over feeding. What now. I did pick up some recharge and photo+ based on recommendations. I would like to continue with the teas for feeding through the finish line but I am open to suggestions. I also have Gaia Green Bloom but I believe that's what got me to where I am today, totally my fault though for over feeding with Gaia and teas. Going on week 6 of flower and I just want to do what I can to see her through the finish line.
 
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