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Earth worm pee-tea for the girls?

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Earth worm pee-tea for the girls?

gleekush 17 Replies 2,827 Views
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gleekush

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#1
So, I can't seem to find much information regarding this. I have been vermi-composting for around 3 years. I own a hungry bin, which is the coolest thing ever. It breaks down worm castings and delivers pure earth worm pee-tea.
I can't seem to find anything out about how to dilute home-made pee-tea with water. Or even if it's good for my marijuana plants. Any ideas?
 
#7
I ended up straining the pee. Then I did about 50/50 pee/water in a spray bottle. My plants actually looked much happier this morning!
 
#8

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#10
gleekush said:
So, I can't seem to find much information regarding this. I have been vermi-composting for around 3 years. I own a hungry bin, which is the coolest thing ever. It breaks down worm castings and delivers pure earth worm pee-tea.
I can't seem to find anything out about how to dilute home-made pee-tea with water. Or even if it's good for my marijuana plants. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Hey there, Ben here from Hungry Bin. Thanks so much for the post and photographs.

I would recommend starting with a 25:1 dilution rate to test irrigation, but take care not too add too much nutrient all at once, as you can run into issues with uptake of key trace nutrients if you get the nitrogen rate too high in the soil. (boron for example).

You can also use vermiliquid as a foliar spray, we recommend dilution rates of over 100:1 if you do this, and be careful as you can end up blocking the aspiration pores on the plants leaves if you build up a residue. We are aware of bonsai growers that are using foliar spray with high dilution rates.

Vermiliquid is slightly alkaline, so if you use it a lot you can also affect the soil acidity balance, which then affects the uptake of the key ingredients for your plants. We are aware of growers in the US using special feedstocks involving crab shell etc to influence the components in the outputs (thereby adjust percentages of target compounds in the plants...), but they generally tend to keep the secret sauces they use in the hungry bins secret for obvious reasons.

The advice given to test one plant first is good, you'll probably be able to see results almost immediately.

I've added a photograph or largest single installation, which funnily enough is in a prison...

I hope this info helps, Ben.
IMG 8516
 
#11
Very cool bin. Look at the heart worm in the last photo. Seem super happy with their little home.

Happy growing.
 
#13
Man I don't know. I would need a ton of worms to make enough material. I guess you have to start somewhere though.
 
#14
BenatHB said:
Hey there, Ben here from Hungry Bin. Thanks so much for the post and photographs.

I would recommend starting with a 25:1 dilution rate to test irrigation, but take care not too add too much nutrient all at once, as you can run into issues with uptake of key trace nutrients if you get the nitrogen rate too high in the soil. (boron for example).

You can also use vermiliquid as a foliar spray, we recommend dilution rates of over 100:1 if you do this, and be careful as you can end up blocking the aspiration pores on the plants leaves if you build up a residue. We are aware of bonsai growers that are using foliar spray with high dilution rates.

Vermiliquid is slightly alkaline, so if you use it a lot you can also affect the soil acidity balance, which then affects the uptake of the key ingredients for your plants. We are aware of growers in the US using special feedstocks involving crab shell etc to influence the components in the outputs (thereby adjust percentages of target compounds in the plants...), but they generally tend to keep the secret sauces they use in the hungry bins secret for obvious reasons.

The advice given to test one plant first is good, you'll probably be able to see results almost immediately.

I've added a photograph or largest single installation, which funnily enough is in a prison...

I hope this info helps, Ben.View attachment 2228135
Click to expand...
Wow, that's great info. Thank you so much! Stupid question....do you mean 100 parts water to earth worm tea? Or vice versa?
 
#15
phillyguy said:
Man I don't know. I would need a ton of worms to make enough material. I guess you have to start somewhere though.
Click to expand...
You actually don't need a ton of worms to start. They tend to stay pretty happy and will start to multiply when they get fed alot in the beginning. It's great. I love it!
 
#16
gleekush said:
Wow, that's great info. Thank you so much! Stupid question....do you mean 100 parts water to earth worm tea? Or vice versa?
Click to expand...
Also, that's an amazing pic of the giant spread of hungry bins! I think they are the way to the future! 💕
 
#17
BenatHB said:
Hey there, Ben here from Hungry Bin. Thanks so much for the post and photographs.

I would recommend starting with a 25:1 dilution rate to test irrigation, but take care not too add too much nutrient all at once, as you can run into issues with uptake of key trace nutrients if you get the nitrogen rate too high in the soil. (boron for example).

You can also use vermiliquid as a foliar spray, we recommend dilution rates of over 100:1 if you do this, and be careful as you can end up blocking the aspiration pores on the plants leaves if you build up a residue. We are aware of bonsai growers that are using foliar spray with high dilution rates.

Vermiliquid is slightly alkaline, so if you use it a lot you can also affect the soil acidity balance, which then affects the uptake of the key ingredients for your plants. We are aware of growers in the US using special feedstocks involving crab shell etc to influence the components in the outputs (thereby adjust percentages of target compounds in the plants...), but they generally tend to keep the secret sauces they use in the hungry bins secret for obvious reasons.

The advice given to test one plant first is good, you'll probably be able to see results almost immediately.

I've added a photograph or largest single installation, which funnily enough is in a prison...

I hope this info helps, Ben.View attachment 2228135
Click to expand...
Is there a specific reason for using many cans instead of one big one? Apart from transportation I mean
 
#18
KeyFingerFlying said:
Is there a specific reason for using many cans instead of one big one? Apart from transportation I mean
Click to expand...
I'd imagine it's because of the compost and layers in the bin. If the hole at the bottom was any bigger, gravity would take over and all the soil would come pouring out. This hole is just narrow enough that when compacted, it creates a sort of seal and nothing comes out except for the compost in the tray.
 
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