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Having some issues with my first indoor grow.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sirbuddingtonthe1st
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Having some issues with my first indoor grow.

Sirbuddingtonthe1st 19 Replies 1,953 Views
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Sirbuddingtonthe1st

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#1
Hey everyone, thanks for taking the time to read my post. I am a new grower that has gotten lost in the weeds of trouble shooting so I am hoping someone with more experience can help me sort through the issue with my plants.

Strain: Unknown.

Age: 6 weeks.

Training: low stress and cropped twice.

Soil: left plant is cow manure compost with 4-4-4 fertilizer and pearlite Right plant is coco coir cow manure mix with 4-4-4 and pearlite.

Feeding: I did try some compost teas and can’t remember whether or not I diluted them.

Light: ionframe evo3 running between level 4-6. Currently at 4 at max distance.
Having some issues with my first indoor grow 5


Before noticing any issues, I bumped up the lighting to 6. Some time later I started noticing the yellowing inbetween the veins. I was thinking it had something to do with the lighting so I dropped it to 4.

The other plant started showing similar issues a few days later. I checked my ph in my soil and came up with 7-7.5. My water is now balanced at 6.0 and I have been giving it calmer thinking that it may be a magnesium deficiency. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


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#2
Sirbuddingtonthe1st said:
Before noticing any issues, I bumped up the lighting to 6. Some time later I started noticing the yellowing in between the veins. I was thinking it had something to do with the lighting so I dropped it to 4.

The other plant started showing similar issues a few days later. I checked my ph in my soil and came up with 7-7.5. My water is now balanced at 6.0 and I have been giving it calmer thinking that it may be a magnesium deficiency. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.
 
#3
just had my plants looking like that (also learned the harder way) I had moved them outside under their bigger light. only watering no nutrients before that. So the lights turned my plants into super eaters and they were already starving lol. They were also exhibiting signs of light stress so i raised the light “a ton”, and added a cal-mag to the nutrients, they look a lot better. Nice job on watching and noticing your plants change after your light power increase!
 
#4
I second adding calmag! I use green rush nutrients brand! I add it every other water until about halfway into flower! I don't even measure it anymore, I measured it once to get a rough visual and have eyed it ever since with excellent results! Good luck!
 
#6
Big lights that are bar style I notice pull more magnesium from the plants as they grow. So you will want to use a cal mag nutrient bottle mix. The reason why is magnesium and calcium have a direct relation in terms of amounts that should be in soil. If one is fed but not the other it will cause a nutrient deficiency.
 
#7
LoveGrowingIt said:
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.
LoveGrowingIt said:
My plants don't seem to need much calcium but they do need a lot of magnesium, so I add Epsom Salt to my water till after the stretch.
Click to expand...
I will have to start doing that. Thanks!
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#8
I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower.
 
#9
Natep said:
I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower.
Click to expand...
What ratios do you use? I would like to do this.
 
#10
Farmville said:
Big lights that are bar style I notice pull more magnesium from the plants as they grow. So you will want to use a cal mag nutrient bottle mix. The reason why is magnesium and calcium have a direct relation in terms of amounts that should be in soil. If one is fed but not the other it will cause a nutrient deficiency.I forgot to put in the post that I started using cal mag about a week ago. Someone else mentioned that the leaves that were already affected wouldn’t change back so that would explain why the the new leaves look better.
Click to expand...

LoveGrowingIt said:
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or I was expecting that the yellowing leaves would turn green again. It does look like the newer leaves are good.
Click to expand...

LoveGrowingIt said:
My plants don't seem to need much calcium but they do need a lot of magnesium, so I add Epsom Salt to my water till after the stretch.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the comment. I will be adding this to my routine. I didn't realize there was such a difference between indoor and outdoor when it comes to nutrients.
LoveGrowingIt said:
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.
Click to expand...
Oh, the yellowed parts won't turn green again? I think that is where I went wrong. I was expecting those leaves to turn green again. Thank you, I appreciate the help!
 
#11
Natep said:
I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower
Click to expand...

Farmville said:
Big lights that are bar style I notice pull more magnesium from the plants as they grow. So you will want to use a cal mag nutrient bottle mix. The reason why is magnesium and calcium have a direct relation in terms of amounts that should be in soil. If one is fed but not the other it will cause a nutrient deficiency.
Click to expand...
Good to know, I will have to be more proactive with the calmag.
 
#12
AZreefer said:
What ratios do you use? I would like to do this.
Click to expand...
www.thcfarmer.com

Fast absorption calcium from egg shells.

Like with the lentil fertilizer, I was doing a batch of calcium for foliar or soil feeding and I decided to post the process here because it might be helpful for some people, wether because they have a sudden calcium deficiency, they want to give only calcium without magnessium or its a big...
www.thcfarmer.com www.thcfarmer.com
 
#13
BearWater said:
just had my plants looking like that (also learned the harder way) I had moved them outside under their bigger light. only watering no nutrients before that. So the lights turned my plants into super eaters and they were already starving lol. They were also exhibiting signs of light stress so i raised the light “a ton”, and added a cal-mag to the nutrients, they look a lot better. Nice job on watching and noticing your plants change after your light power increase!
Click to expand...
Glad do hear we followed a similar path lol! I never really thought about the correlation between light and nutrients until this happened so it has been an excellent learning experience.
 
#14
Sunin said:
www.thcfarmer.com

Fast absorption calcium from egg shells.

Like with the lentil fertilizer, I was doing a batch of calcium for foliar or soil feeding and I decided to post the process here because it might be helpful for some people, wether because they have a sudden calcium deficiency, they want to give only calcium without magnessium or its a big...
www.thcfarmer.com www.thcfarmer.com
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'm going to try this as well.
 
#15
Just an Observation: why the 2 different growing mediums? this complicates things, watering/nutrient issues, dry-backs etc. Pick a Media and learn it, eliminate the variables in your grow. Current Issue Magnesium.
I would recommend Coco. Soil is for Outdoors. (25% faster growth, easy to remedy issues by flush and fill with corrective nutrient solutions) stronger healthier plants, If you need tips/tricks starting with Coco DM me. With Coco you mix the solutions, and water to run-off, you read your run-off, and mix new solutions based on run-off, you will know "exactly" what's in your soil/media at all times, this gives you "process control"! no more wingin it! (over 15 years Coco/Hydro Grower)

Also if using 5 gal buckets, the sides should be drilled with1/2" holes this helps add Oxygen to the rhizo, also helps with drainage and dry-backs(capillary action) so you dont end up with soggy roots. (Oxygen in the root zone is very important)!Plastic Pots Suck they stay wet too long. Cheap fabric pots will work better. The link for fabric pots, these are great and they are squat(9.9" x 12.5") and hold almost 6 gal of coco. (cheap and gives you head room in your tents) https://a.co/d/iNcMNo8
Right On!
 
#17
Natep said:
I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower.
Click to expand...
Do you do this with all your plants? Or do you add these when you see deficiencies? Love that you make your own. I bought some calmag. The container is trash. Everytime you pour from it, it goes everywhere but the intended cup. I'd rather make my own too. I use epsom salt for my ferns and peppers. I've saved the post about extracting the calcium from the egg shells.
 
#18
Looks like the one in coco is nosing ahead. Just starting to ease into coco here. Depending on the coco product, some are pre-washed of salts. Some are washed and buffered. If not, the end user does it. Usually by pre-soaking with a 150% dose of cal-mag to pre-load the coco with it. If not, the magnesium (and maybe cal also) will be absorbed into the coco and unavailable to the plant. The main reason I've been loath to learn to grow in it is the overwhelming (to me anyway) volume of dos, dont's, always, nevers, etc associated with it. Hopefully, not tossing misinformation here and stand corrected in advance to those more knowledgeable.
 
#19
Choppr said:
Just an Observation: why the 2 different growing mediums? this complicates things, watering/nutrient issues, dry-backs etc. Pick a Media and learn it, eliminate the variables in your grow. Current Issue Magnesium.
I would recommend Coco. Soil is for Outdoors. (25% faster growth, easy to remedy issues by flush and fill with corrective nutrient solutions) stronger healthier plants, If you need tips/tricks starting with Coco DM me. With Coco you mix the solutions, and water to run-off, you read your run-off, and mix new solutions based on run-off, you will know "exactly" what's in your soil/media at all times, this gives you "process control"! no more wingin it! (over 15 years Coco/Hydro Grower)

Also if using 5 gal buckets, the sides should be drilled with1/2" holes this helps add Oxygen to the rhizo, also helps with drainage and dry-backs(capillary action) so you dont end up with soggy roots. (Oxygen in the root zone is very important)!Plastic Pots Suck they stay wet too long. Cheap fabric pots will work better. The link for fabric pots, these are great and they are squat(9.9" x 12.5") and hold almost 6 gal of coco. (cheap and gives you head room in your tents) https://a.co/d/iNcMNo8
Rig
Click to expand...

Choppr said:
Just an Observation: why the 2 different growing mediums? this complicates things, watering/nutrient issues, dry-backs etc. Pick a Media and learn it, eliminate the variables in your grow. Current Issue Magnesium.
I would recommend Coco. Soil is for Outdoors. (25% faster growth, easy to remedy issues by flush and fill with corrective nutrient solutions) stronger healthier plants, If you need tips/tricks starting with Coco DM me. With Coco you mix the solutions, and water to run-off, you read your run-off, and mix new solutions based on run-off, you will know "exactly" what's in your soil/media at all times, this gives you "process control"! no more wingin it! (over 15 years Coco/Hydro Grower)

Also if using 5 gal buckets, the sides should be drilled with1/2" holes this helps add Oxygen to the rhizo, also helps with drainage and dry-backs(capillary action) so you dont end up with soggy roots. (Oxygen in the root zone is very important)!Plastic Pots Suck they stay wet too long. Cheap fabric pots will work better. The link for fabric pots, these are great and they are squat(9.9" x 12.5") and hold almost 6 gal of coco. (cheap and gives you head room in your tents) https://a.co/d/iNcMNo8
Right On!
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. I agree with everything you mentioned.

Originally, these two were outdoor plants. I was growing some other things that prefer coco so I decided to use it for one of the plants even though I had no idea what I was doing. A month in, I found a complete AC infinity 2x4 grow setup on the side of the road so I started growing indoors. I really didn't understand how coco was used when I started, and after your advice, I know I am still not using it correctly, but I'm going to wing it through this grow then you can expect a DM from me sometime in the future lol. Thanks!
 
#20
@Sirbuddingtonthe1st check out https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/toc/#fertilizers-water - this is the best place to start if your new to coco, the basic fundamentals' read through it a couple times, It seems over-whelming to some folks, but its really simple stuff. You'll know what's in your media at all times never any head scratching wondering what's going on or why? If there's ever a problem you'll mix up a "corrective mix solution" pour it through the media, it flushes out and refills with the correction, Basically a "full reset" in the Rhizome, You cannot do this with soil. Right On!
 
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