Looks like it is starting to fade. Normal for late flower

needs food,. that colouring is usually from a phosphorus deficiency or nitrogen deficiency

Natep said:

Looks like it is starting to fade. Normal for late flower

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no such thing as a fade indoors unless done on purpose with ph adjusting or removing/lowering of nutrients to early..
cold temps with low humidity can do bring out the anthocyanins

GNick55 said:

no such thing as a fade indoors unless done on purpose with ph adjusting or removing/lowering of nutrients to early..
cold temps with low humidity can do bring out the anthocyanins

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At night, the temperatures sometimes drop from 28 to 30°C down to around 22°C. At the same time, the humidity rises, which worries me because I don't want mold on the buds. Therefore, I have a dehumidifier in the tent that reduces the humidity to around 55% every 15 minutes. However, the humidity rises back up to about 65% within a few minutes. So, it's only short moments... Do you think that might already be too much?

GNick55 said:

needs food,. that colouring is usually from a phosphorus deficiency or nitrogen deficiency

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Since I've received feedback in other forums that nitrogen might be lacking, I’ve now watered with 3.6 ml of nitrogen fertilizer (20% nitrogen, 1.6% magnesium) in 1L of water. Should I also get phosphorus fertilizer?

what nutrients do you have there? pics
also post more pics of plant and grow area..

GNick55 said:

what nutrients do you have there? pics
also post more pics of plant and grow area..

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If by "nutrients" you mean which fertilizer I have used so far: none. But as far as I know, the soil was pre-fertilized. "Dope Soil" is something like a ready-made mix that you can activate with a bit of water over a period of 14 days. After that, it is supposed to be a "Living Soil," which provides the plants with everything they need without requiring additional fertilizer.

For the "Living Soil" to remain alive, it naturally needs to be kept moist at all times. I already thought this might become an issue since I'm using the Autopot system, where the plants only get water from below. During the growth phase, the system was not yet activated. I only activated it after the second repotting, or a bit later, and then, of course, I stopped watering from above, which might have caused the substrate to be a bit dry on top during the last two weeks. But whether this could lead to these deficiencies, I have no idea... I simply have no experience with all of this yet.

"Dope Soil" is composed of the following: peat (H3-H6), coconut fiber, FLO, worm compost, biochar.

"FLO" is the fertilizer, which contains the following ingredients:

Organic-mineral NPK fertilizer 2-3-2 with lime
2% nitrogen rated as total nitrogen
3% phosphate rated as total P2O5
2% potassium rated as total K2OMinimum organic substance content of 60% based on dry matter.For use in home and small gardens.

Made with plant materials from food, beverage, or feed production, algae, leonardite, animal by-products (Cat. 3, VO (EC) 1069/2009: fish meal, blood meal, meat and bone meal), 6% bat guano, magnesium limestone, calcareous algae limestone, epsomite, rock dust (basalt/diabase rock), clay minerals, palm ash, fungi (Trichoderma, Mycorrhiza), and bacteria.

Additional components:
2% N Total nitrogen (organically bound)
3% P2O5 Total phosphate
2% K2O Total potassium
2% CaCO2 Total calcium
0.6% MgO Total magnesium
0.5% S Total sulfur

From left to right in the tent are Gorilla Glue #4, Blue Dream, and Green Crack. Blue Dream was always a bit lighter than the other two and started developing these dark spots about 5 days ago. Now Gorilla Glue #4 is also beginning to show signs of deficiencies.

Attached are some recent photos of each plant and the grow tent overall. I keep reading that the first thing to check is the pH value, so I’ve also attached the pH levels of the soil for all three plants.




The spike in pH for Blue Dream was caused by watering with nitrogen, as I described in my previous post. So far, only Blue Dream has received about 3.58 ml of this fertilizer per 1L of water: https://amzn.eu/d/bPoDrTh

"Professional liquid nitrogen fertilizer as a single nutrient fertilizer with 20% total nitrogen, 1.6% magnesium, and the trace nutrients boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Can be used for foliar and root fertilization.

Special concentrate, sufficient for at least 75 liters of ready-to-use fertilizer. NPK 20-0-0-(1.6)."

That’s all the information that came to mind for now. If anything important is missing, let me know. Since I’ve only given nitrogen to the Blue Dream so far and now the Gorilla Glue doesn’t look good either, I’m thinking about giving both of them a bloom fertilizer with a high phosphorus content. But I really have no idea. I’d hate to lose 2/3 of my first harvest due to my lack of knowledge.

PS.: If you hover your mouse over the photos, the file name will be displayed, so you can identify them.

ok i’ll have to go the read that message over,.
wow way over complicated..
plants need phosphorus and calmag right now by looking at pictures..
living soil does not have to be kept moist,
that’s a lie,. marijuana likes wet/dry cycles period..
i’ll be back

and you’ll get to harvest so don’t worry

GNick55 said:

ok i’ll have to go the read that message over,.
wow way over complicated..
plants need phosphorus and calmag right now by looking at pictures..
living soil does not have to be kept moist,
that’s a lie,. marijuana likes wet/dry cycles period..
i’ll be back

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Okay, I have BioBizz CalMag on hand and would order this for phosphorus:


This is a PK fertilizer with a 7-5 ratio.

Should I follow the usage instructions from the respective manufacturers, or should I increase these values further?

Nerdlicht said:

Okay, I have BioBizz CalMag on hand and would order this for phosphorus:

Phosphorus Plus | HESI Plantenvoeding B.V.

✓Soil fertilizer for flowering amplifying ✓Composition of Phosphorus & Potassium ✓Available in over 42 countries

hesi.nl

This is a PK fertilizer with a 7-5 ratio.

Should I follow the usage instructions from the respective manufacturers, or should I increase these values further?

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ok now i didn’t read read yet,.
but your adding in single nutrients when you think it’s needed?
you should be feeding a complete nutrient regime every watering..
what nutrients you have there, take a picture of them.. and i’ll go the read that message..

ok, to me your gonna start feeding them with every watering, and you’ll be watering from the top,.. stop watering from the bottom!!
i’ll wait to see your nutrients.,

Yes, so far, I've only added individual nutrients (if at all), since the concept was that the Living Soil would provide all the nutrients to the plants, and I wouldn't have to add anything.

That's why I don't have any nutrients here, except for BioBizz CalMag (https://www.biobizz.com/producto/calmag/) because I initially used reverse osmosis water and then supplemented the values with CalMag and Epsom salt. However, I abandoned that approach when I saw that the pH levels of the soil were fine with the tap water here.

In summary, I don't have a fertilization plan and therefore don't have any nutrients here, except for CalMag and Epsom salt.

Do you think I should use a complete bloom fertilizer? If so, can you recommend an organic one?

Nerdlicht said:

Yes, so far, I've only added individual nutrients (if at all), since the concept was that the Living Soil would provide all the nutrients to the plants, and I wouldn't have to add anything.

That's why I don't have any nutrients here, except for BioBizz CalMag (https://www.biobizz.com/producto/calmag/) because I initially used reverse osmosis water and then supplemented the values with CalMag and Epsom salt. However, I abandoned that approach when I saw that the pH levels of the soil were fine with the tap water here.

In summary, I don't have a fertilization plan and therefore don't have any nutrients here, except for CalMag and Epsom salt.

Do you think I should use a complete bloom fertilizer? If so, can you recommend an organic one?

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yes,.. are you able to go to the store? or order online? and show me what is available to you before buying,..
i think your in the netherlands so bio bizz easily available? or what?

Almost, I’m in Germany. Cultivation has been legal here since April, and probably hundreds of thousands of people are having the exact same problems as I am.

Since I just had surgery and technically shouldn’t be driving yet, ordering would be best for me. Amazon Prime is the fastest :)

These options would arrive by tomorrow:

PK 40-38: https://amzn.eu/d/anRCxhD

PK 28-25: https://amzn.eu/d/2lK4nXR

NPK 3 - 3.3 - 4:

you need options like the third one npk.. no boosters till you are on your own
so try to find a few choices with a npk.. and post for me..
by the way i’m expecting friends from germany any day now,.
i’ve been there 4/5 times, i loved going the clubs in west berlin back in the day!!

I’m not familiar with Dope Soil, but I have never seen a pre-amended mix that will last an entire grow…..but Dope Soil could be different. Most pre amended mixes last about 1 week per gal of medium.
The plants def look hungry. I’m assuming Dope Soil is organic…? If so, I would def stick to a dry organic and top dress. Gaia Green and Dr Earth are two that are easy to find. At your stage, I would give them a good top dressing of the bloom mix, which should take U to harvest.
Also, you need to get the humidity in check. At this point in flower, 60% and higher is risky, plus you’re slowing down the transpiration and nutrient uptake. Shoot for 50%, which will help with both issues.

Gaia Green and Dr. Earth are not available here in Germany, no chance. Would something like 'Power Bloom' from Gaia Green with an NPK of 2-8-4 be good? Most bloom fertilizers available here have an NPK of 3-3-4 or something similar. I found only one with a relatively high phosphorus content:


It has an NPK of 1-3-1.

Do you think that would be okay?

Regarding the humidity: right now, it's so warm here that the tent with the LED on is already around 28 to 29°C. When the dehumidifier kicks in, the air temperature rises to 30, sometimes 31°C. The question is... what’s worse, such high temperatures or humidity over 60%?

Another question: how well can the plants handle a constant 10% fluctuation in humidity?

Nerdlicht said:

Gaia Green and Dr. Earth are not available here in Germany, no chance. Would something like 'Power Bloom' from Gaia Green with an NPK of 2-8-4 be good? Most bloom fertilizers available here have an NPK of 3-3-4 or something similar. I found only one with a relatively high phosphorus content:

Amazon.de

It has an NPK of 1-3-1.

Do you think that would be okay?

Regarding the humidity: right now, it's so warm here that the tent with the LED on is already around 28 to 29°C. When the dehumidifier kicks in, the air temperature rises to 30, sometimes 31°C. The question is... what’s worse, such high temperatures or humidity over 60%?

Another question: how well can the plants handle a constant 10% fluctuation in humidity?

View attachment 2246353

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So can u not get Gaia Green??The Gaia green 2-8-4 is the exact formula I use. Too dress 1 heaping tablespoon per gallon of medium. This will provide the required levels of the big 3 (N-P-K) plus smaller amounts of several different micro nutrients. I also add the Gaia Green Basalt or Rock Dust for a bit more of the micros.
It’ll take a week or so for U to notice any improvement.
In lieu of GG any organic that offers a similar ratio of NPK.
U don’t wanna eliminate N entirely, instead taper it down while increasing P & K.
The 1-3-1 should work fine. U may need to top dress it every 2 weeks or so.
I always mix some worm castings into my top dress….really helps the microbes in the medium.
The only other thing I use is Boost by Canna. From about week 3 of flower until the finish. It’s a mild supplement 0-1-1 and totally organic…. It’s a fermented liquid made from plant extracts. All I know is it really helps with the flower development and I saw a difference when I started using it.
At your stage, other than a decreasing dose of cal mag, the 1-3-1 top dress (with some worm castings) should suffice.