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Week 3 of 1st Run - Nute Deficiency?

Hi All, (Autoflower/Coco Coir/RO Water/Canna Nutes) Here are my first two ladies. It's been 15 days since sprout. I buffered the solo cup and autopots with calmag (& flushed prior to transplant). Transplanted them 5 days ago. Fed the pots and the solo...
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Week 3 of 1st Run - Nute Deficiency?

by smokydoodle · Started
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Discussion below · 22 replies
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smokydoodle

smokydoodle

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#1
Hi All,

(Autoflower/Coco Coir/RO Water/Canna Nutes)
Racquel feb 7th
Lillian feb7th

Here are my first two ladies. It's been 15 days since sprout. I buffered the solo cup and autopots with calmag (& flushed prior to transplant).
Transplanted them 5 days ago. Fed the pots and the solo cups the same nutes before transplant. Expect to feed them again today (It seems to be about 10-14 days in the Autopots before turning them on. Most seem to feed twice in that span).

Racquel is showing stress with curling and what looks like a calmag deficiency in the leaves? Lillian has the same coloring issues. What do you think?

Because I'm using RO water, I've been adding GH CaliMagic per label instructions (1ml/L). How much should I increase the dosage? Is is best to just add it during feedings? I'd be nervous about adding it in between and possibly flushing other nutes out of the coco (is that a even a thing?).

Racquel (the larger one) started out growing much faster than Lillian and has been that way from the start. When you encounter one plant that seems to "have the juice", do you treat them any differently? She also seems to be more sensitive/reactive to feeding (big droop every time).

Thanks!
Smokydoodle

Stats:
Atlas Seed - Gummibears - Autoflower
Paper towel > Jiffy Pellet > Solo Cup > 3.9g Autopot (added Mykos during transplant)

4.x2 Tent w/oscillating fan
15 days since sprout
RO Water
Using AC Infinity controller: Solving for VPD
VPD: .55-.70 kPa
Temp: 78-80deg
Humidity: 80-84%
Lighting 24/0, DLI 16
 
#3
ArtfulCodger said:
I'd reduce the light, based on the edge curl and yellowing between the veins.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I've been thinking about that. Given that I'm a newbie, what I've learned from Dr. Bruce Bugbee YT videos is that the environment (including nutes) need to be in balance. Could I either reduce the light or increase the nutrients to find that balance? Part of my theory of why Racquel is struggling is that she wants to grow faster, but I'm not giving enough nutes to balance the light, so she's suffering more. Does that make any sense?
 
#4
smokydoodle said:
Thanks! I've been thinking about that. Given that I'm a newbie, what I've learned from Dr. Bruce Bugbee YT videos is that the environment (including nutes) need to be in balance. Could I either reduce the light or increase the nutrients to find that balance? Part of my theory of why Racquel is struggling is that she wants to grow faster, but I'm not giving enough nutes to balance the light, so she's suffering more. Does that make any sense?
Click to expand...
There's a balance to be struck between lights, nutes, and watering. In general, and especially for newer growers, it's much easier to find the balance by reducing inputs as opposed to increasing them. You can try adding nutes, but if your roots aren't sufficiently developed, you'll just be putting more salt in the pot which the plants can't take up, which can have the opposite of the effect you're going for. If that plant was mine, I'd reduce the light.
 
#5
ArtfulCodger said:
There's a balance to be struck between lights, nutes, and watering. In general, and especially for newer growers, it's much easier to find the balance by reducing inputs as opposed to increasing them. You can try adding nutes, but if your roots aren't sufficiently developed, you'll just be putting more salt in the pot which the plants can't take up, which can have the opposite of the effect you're going for. If that plant was mine, I'd reduce the light.
Click to expand...
Great point. I'm constantly reminding myself that the #1 goal for this grow is to get to the finish line so I can maximize my learning. Going to dial the DLI down from 16 to 14 and see how they respond. Thanks!
 
#6
I was going to say the same , lights too close or two bright, brown random spots are a sign of led burn and it looks very similar to cal mag deficiency
 
#10
It looks like I have a light/nutrient imbalance.

Yesterday I fed them per the Canna guide:
Input was 1.1EC at 5.9pH.
Runoff EC was .81 for the big one and .86 for the small one.
Also, the runoff for the big one was about half the amount of the small one.
My understanding is if the runoff EC is lower than the plants want more nutes. Is that correct?

I moved my lights to 14 DLI, from 16.

I'm using Autopots (haven't turned them on yet), so I'm ok with getting them to the point they can feed themselves and then solving the balance with light intensity and nutrient concentration.

The size difference is interesting to me, given that they're the same. The bigger one was a beast from the jump (radicle growth).
Feb 9th
 
#11
Hi, if you don't mind me poking my nose into this grow of yours..lol but ya, coco coir is an Innert medium. Holds 0 Nutrients value and never strays from ph 7. I pereonally suggest you stay away from EC readings and trying to adjust and focus more on PPM and Ph intake. With coco coir, you have a few options of fergitation cycles. 1 main focus with coco tho is never allow it to dry out.. ever.. coco when Moist / wet provides Oxegen and root growth, seen by Node bumps on the main stock above the dirt as they grow.
Seedlings like s Low 200ppm ph.6.5 intake with coco for seedling till the 2nd week of Veg. Then you go up to 400, ph. 6 intakr at 4 weeks Veg 600ppm 6.0 there are several feeding charts which describe ppm and ph per stage. Flower i go to 800 ppm 5.5 ph intake then back down to 200 ppm in last 2 weeks Ripen for harvesting. Your RO ppm and ph readings should be PH within 1 ph. PPM within 300 ppm. Remember what goes Into coco is what the plant will take up and nothing remains but a small% of your feed / water to take in from. So a higher fergitation cycles in coco is by far the Best way to grow Monster bud. I run a Auto drip feeder RDWCW system, which runs for 1 min every 4 hours over 16 hrs / 18 hr day. Water goes in, Roots take thiet dose, water runs off and gone to either waste or back into my tank.
You will never drown Roots in coco but you can starve them easily without keeping them moist / wet.
 
#12
smokydoodle said:
Great point. I'm constantly reminding myself that the #1 goal for this grow is to get to the finish line so I can maximize my learning. Going to dial the DLI down from 16 to 14 and see how they respond. Thanks!
Click to expand...
ArtfulCodger said:
There's a balance to be struck between lights, nutes, and watering. In general, and especially for newer growers, it's much easier to find the balance by reducing inputs as opposed to increasing them. You can try adding nutes, but if your roots aren't sufficiently developed, you'll just be putting more salt in the pot which the plants can't take up, which can have the opposite of the effect you're going for. If that plant was mine, I'd reduce the light.
Click to expand...

Lights reduced to 14 DLI and the plants look better (coloring), but leaf curling seems to still be an issue. Last feeding runoff EC was about .25 lower than input. Thoughts?

PXL 20250211 011725615
PXL 20250211 011705666
 
#16
ArtfulCodger said:
It looks to me like they're still getting more light than they can handle.
Click to expand...
I'm considering topping the bigger one to even it with the other and to make sure it doesn't get too tall. I'm assuming I should wait until she's more healthy?
 
#17
davil420 said:
Are they Photo or Auto and can you take a farred temp of the light?
Click to expand...
Answered my own question.. Auto in coco.. ok, so 7x speed Photo which 3 days is almost a week Photo time and should notice changes by then, if not, it needs addressed again. I want to ask if you measure and going by manufacturer light lights to canopy method or use a ppdf meter / app for precise readings?
Is your Fan directly blowing at the canopy?
You can't be over water them
You have no toxicity on tips edges veins
Not Clawing up but cupping up
So really it's narrowed down to Wind burn / light / heat burn. Light Spectrum burn would show Yellowing on the Body of the leaf, so it's not Light strength beating on them, rules that out.
Wind ?
Temp radiant heaters off light?
Air temp?
 
#18
smokydoodle said:
They're Autos. I'm not sure how to take the far red light temperature.
Click to expand...
Do you have Kids? Have a infrared thermometer for taking kids temps? Use that and stay 2 inch from light and point the thermometer laser to the lights surface, directly, and what's the temp? And if ya have that, what's your LEAF temp? Top fan canopy leaf temp?
 

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#20
davil420 said:
Do you have Kids? Have a infrared thermometer for taking kids temps? Use that and stay 2 inch from light and point the thermometer laser to the lights surface, directly, and what's the temp? And if ya have that, what's your LEAF temp? Top fan canopy leaf temp
Click to expand...
Thanks! I can take the light temp tomorrow. Leaf temps have been 79-80 degrees using an IR thermometer.

I did have my oscillating fan on a cycle 3 mins on, 1 min off per AC Infinity's warranty. I'm going change it to always on (in case there's fluctuations in leaf temp).
 
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