For context, I will be growing in Hàppy Fròg soil, indoor in tents, fabric pots, under LED. I plan to mix 5 gal of feed water at a time as needed and hand water.

I have a fancy pH pen that I will use this time around. Is an EC meter necessary?

I have a full bag of EWC: should I use that? Maybe at the very beginning before I start using Jaçks?

Trying to keep a useful soil micro-environment with synthetics seems to come down to it's availability often being too high and it has you dumping cups of Microbials just to keep up. The plant will reduce carbon exudates to the fungi, because it's own supply is available and high, it won't bother with the effort. Phosphorus overload, saltiness and general microbe death will haunt you.
Unless you're full bore synth from here on out and are comfy with the math.

Gurtgurt said:

I heard you're not supposed to mix fertilizer methods--either stick with organic OR synthetic... But "the recipe" thread based around Jåcks 321 mentions the use of kelp. Doesn't that go against the adage?

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I've used both and the plants survived. I do think it's best to focus on using one or the other, though. They're not incompatible, but dosing would be difficult.

Gurtgurt said:

Similarly with mycorrhizae, should I use that with Jacks, silica, and fulvic?

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Yes, if you're growing organic. No, if you're not.

Gurtgurt said:

I have a fancy pH pen that I will use this time around.

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Good. It'll help for testing water and soil pH.

Gurtgurt said:

Is an EC meter necessary?

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Usually not for soil, except when mixing synthetic nutrients.

Gurtgurt said:

I have a full bag of EWC: should I use that? Maybe at the very beginning before I start using Jaçks?

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Its use has pros and cons. I don't use it.

Gurtgurt said:

my leaves end up dying early no matter what nutrient program I try.

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More information about when, where and how they're dying would help. There are many possibilities.

ChairmanFester said:

Trying to keep a useful soil micro-environment with synthetics seems to come down to it's availability often being too high and it has you dumping cups of Microbials just to keep up. The plant will reduce carbon exudates to the fungi, because it's own supply is available and high, it won't bother with the effort. Phosphorus overload, saltiness and general microbe death will haunt you.
Unless you're full bore synth from here on out and are comfy with the math.

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Damn I hadn't thought of the carbon exudates hehe. From THE RECIPE thread, OP used fulvic acid as a "biostimulant" and as I understand it to chelate the added fertilizer. Do you think this might address what you describe? Also I'm hella good with math son.

LoveGrowingIt said:

More information about when, where and how they're dying would help. There are many possibilities.

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Thank you for your offer for aid, and I have posted umpteen threads and taken their advice previously. My current garden is far enough along I don't think anything I do will repair it, and the next run is just babies. I want to see if a new fertilizer regime "clicks" with me because obviously I keep doing something wrong.

Because one is instant food and other is weeks of food. Its like giving you a buffe and ordering pizza same day

Gurtgurt said:

I've spent a lot of time reading but something ain't clicking with me because my leaves end up dying early no matter what nutrient program I try. I've tried FF trío and Gāia green in soil recently with the same results. pH adjusted water or not, EWC, magnesium, lime, similar results.

For my next run I will be following THE RECIPE as stickied here for the first time. I thought this was purely synthetic, but it left me with some questions.

I heard you're not supposed to mix fertilizer methods--either stick with organic OR synthetic... But "the recipe" thread based around Jåcks 321 mentions the use of kelp. Doesn't that go against the adage?

Similarly with mychorrizae, should I use that with Jacks, silica, and fulvic?

Thanks for the insight. Here is a tom cat:


View attachment 2595029

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Jacks is a way to give you a solid recipe throughout, certain strains can become in need of a lil more Cal/Mag due to yellowing. Just as a suggestion having used multiple Synthetics and one whose an avid KNF "Scientist" can assure you never underestimate the power of using what has come from the soil back into the soil as being a True Game Changer towards you quality, quantity and overall joy as to how your Girls will respond. Silica is a big yes with Jacks, also maintaining a healthy PH

CoachTrainum said:

Jacks is a way to give you a solid recipe throughout, certain strains can become in need of a lil more Cal/Mag due to yellowing. Just as a suggestion having used multiple Synthetics and one whose an avid KNF "Scientist" can assure you never underestimate the power of using what has come from the soil back into the soil as being a True Game Changer towards you quality, quantity and overall joy as to how your Girls will respond. Silica is a big yes with Jacks, also maintaining a healthy PH

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Remember Synthetics are just imitating exactly what Organics Naturally do.Organic Response isn't always as fast as Synthetics, yet overall quality definitely goes to Organic (I personally love KNF everything when it comes to complimenting/enhancing a Garden. Next Level! Coach

Gurtgurt said:

For context, I will be growing in Hàppy Fròg soil, indoor in tents, fabric pots, under LED. I plan to mix 5 gal of feed water at a time as needed and hand water.

I have a fancy pH pen that I will use this time around. Is an EC meter necessary?

I have a full bag of EWC: should I use that? Maybe at the very beginning before I start using Jaçks?

Click to expand...

Howdy! If you're using Happy Frog, you are set up nicely for doing hybrid feeding where the plants get steady light nutrient support from the soil but mainly eat from your amendments or liquid nutes. HF is a light blend, soft enough for seedlings.

If you want to charge that Happy Frog up, you can use your EWC mix in there for sure and the notes from the forum in build a soil are a good resource for other things to mix in. For good aeration and behavior, I'd add 10% perlite and 10% pea gravel sized biochar (1/4-1/2" diameter) to the blend for Happy Frog.

EC pen: I would recommend you get one and start playing with it because it is highly educational for what you are doing and currently learning. You'll want to check your input if you're doing liquid feedings, and your output when you're watering or doing liquid feedings until you get a knack of how much water will give you which numbers in your runoff. Once you've got a knack for it, you'll find you'll only be reaching for it to periodically check or to troubleshoot when things aren't going right.

Your pH pen: Should really only be used if you're mixing liquid nutrients that change pH value (usually too low) and if you adjust, adjust up to 6.5. If you are watering using just tap, don't adjust down. Theres buffers in Happy Frog that will take care of it for you in most circumstances.