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best way to air tight a room ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter NBfrost
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best way to air tight a room ?

NBfrost 19 Replies 22,385 Views
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NBfrost

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Oct 31, 2008
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#1
hey all , i was just wondering whats the best way to smell proof my room ? i have a 9 x 15 room , just 1/2 inch drywall on 4x2 studs on my interior , and then just white visqueen plastic over my 2x4 vapour barrier with r 20 pinkn insilation . but my ceeling , is 2x6 floor joists thats it no other materials yet .. i will post a pic soon ..
 
#2
drywall and mud the ceiling. caulk all the edges, door jambs, wall to floor corners, then primer, then paint with water-base latex. don't count on Visqueen to seal it up, i learned the hard way that the seams always fail. what you got for a scrubber?


Papa
 
#3
I would say a Can 66 or 75 on an 8" fan + a speed controller... vented to another room/area/outside.

With enough negative air pressure... you won't have any stray odors.
 
#5
Papa said:
drywall and mud the ceiling. caulk all the edges, door jambs, wall to floor corners, then primer, then paint with water-base latex. don't count on Visqueen to seal it up, i learned the hard way that the seams always fail. what you got for a scrubber?


Papa
Click to expand...

can you give me some more info on why you prefer a water base paint over the oil base.

I'm building a room right now, I Just laid down some kills oil base primer. Going to pick up some paint tomorrow.

Sorry, hope I am not jacking your post Forest.
 
#6
Homie D's Super High Gloss Behr White Enamel in an Interior/Exterior.
 
#7
Asbestos4u said:
can you give me some more info on why you prefer a water base paint over the oil base.
Click to expand...


the water-base latex is easy to use and clean up, and if the surfaces have been prepped well, it forms a plastic seal all around.

btw, the kilz oil-base is GREAT primer. if you wanna get super fancy, lay on the oil-base kilz and sand it smooth before the latex.

btw 2, for best light reflectance, flat is the way to go. it might seem odd, but it is an issue that has been well studied by illumination engineers.


Papa
 
#8
no worries about hyjacking this post man , i am looking for all kindz of discussion about this topic , i have to finish my room and am wondering how to go about it .. im going to go get some gear , i will post a pic wheni get home so u guys will know what im up agains .. i also have a air exchanger inside my room i want to move to the outside into the laundry area , or should i >?
 
#9
i have no filter yet , but i need one soon , my critical mass , is starting to smell up the place and my room is directly under my kitchem , and when u open up the cabents under the sink its smells like skunk lol
 
#10
pics

here are some photos
IMG 0243


IMG 0242


IMG 0248


IMG 0247
 
#12
yeah, sealing up those joists is crucial for odor control.
 
S

swisscheese

Guest
#13
Going to need a good door with weather stripping all around. Insulate under the joists and put up drywall. Caulk it all. Paint like they instructed above. If you have money to blow you can add in some ridgid foam board for another layer of insulation/sound proof/air seal. When you do it right you'll know when you open and close the door from the pressure change.
 
#14
An economic route would be to fill the floor joists with owens corning batts, masonite the ceiling and seal with panda and tape along with a carbon scrubbed as mentioned.
 
#15
i was thining of filling it with insulation , pink type r 20 then vapor barrier , then drywall it . do i have to tape and mud it if i seal it up with plastic ?
 
#16
my air exchanger , thats in the corner , i am planning on moving it outside the room , and running the ducting between the joists , well the outlet and inlet are beside eachother , but on the other side of the house the dryer vent is inline in the same joist with inlet . my question is if i put a t in the dryer vent , can i hook the outlet of the air exchanger into the dryer vent ? the dryer vent is a 4 inch vent , and the inlet / outlet of the air exchanger is a 6 inch vent .. then i was going to use the leftover original exhause vent for either an intake or exhause vent that goes directly into my room ? with a carbon filter for sure and fan .
 
#18
can anyone drop a comment on this will is with work with reducing the exhaust pipe from a 6 inch to a 4 inch ?
 
#19
NBfrost said:
my air exchanger , thats in the corner , i am planning on moving it outside the room , and running the ducting between the joists , well the outlet and inlet are beside eachother , but on the other side of the house the dryer vent is inline in the same joist with inlet . my question is if i put a t in the dryer vent , can i hook the outlet of the air exchanger into the dryer vent ? the dryer vent is a 4 inch vent , and the inlet / outlet of the air exchanger is a 6 inch vent .. then i was going to use the leftover original exhause vent for either an intake or exhause vent that goes directly into my room ? with a carbon filter for sure and fan .
Click to expand...


You can certainly use a Y & reducer... but don't forget to get a backdraft damper for the dryer tubing... that 6" will try to blow air back & into the dryer... or I would think...? You'l lose a bit of airflow reducing, but no big deal.

Not exactly sure if the forced air gets back into the dryer unit itself and then spills out the leaks, or if it will just build up pressure & leak in the lines/connections...???
 
#20
thanks man , i never thought about back pressure ... i probally could switch the 4 inch to a 6 inch then Put the reducer on the end of the dryer port . i dont think it would be to hard to do .. thanks man ,
 
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