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If you can DIY a replacement bulb array you can put together a SolStix Rack that will give you top efficiency and spectral quality, in about a hour, and for about the same cost. You'll have a light with 2x the efficiency - which means half to power bill of cheap 88 lumen/watt replacement bulbs -...

Check out SolStrips, especially their SolStix Rack kits. Top quality Samsung diodes, fitted heatsinks and frames, for about $1/watt - real watts, not "replacement watts". No need to fool around with household lights, they have poor efficiency and spectrum, and in the end will cost your more to...

That's good for the driver, but the Epistar LEDs are still sub-par. I would not buy a Mars light based on their history of overpromising and underdelivering.

Mars is getting better but still using cheap inefficient drivers and diodes (Epistar). And still over-stating output/wattage (232w at the wall, which with their crappy drivers probably means 200w actual LED wattage) and much lower PAR/watt than a light with Samsung diodes. You can do better for...

DHL shipping, minimum order amounts and bank transfer-only payments are always the deal-killers on Alibaba. That and the widespread, blatant misrepresentation of the products sold there. I've found items on Alibaba that were nothing but pictures of competitors' items, with sales reps using them...

Those cheap COBs are good for playing around with to learn how to build COB systems but they have poor quality and efficiency. You'll find you are replacing burnt out or half-lit units and your efficiency (lumens/watt) will be lower than a decent HPS bulb. Make the small step up to Citizen or...

Yes, 180w minimum. 240w (two SolSheet Os + Mean Well HLG-240H driver) would be much better for flowering. 240w would replace your 400w HPS (and you could close the closet doors - you are losing a lot of reflected light with the door open). You want to get your average PAR above 500, preferably...

It could be fine, but it all depends on the square footage you want to light up. The SolSheet Os will light up a 2x2 area will good intensity for veg and bloom. Two O's on a single HLG-240H driver will cover a 2x4 ft area perfectly, even a 2x6 very well with good Mylar on the walls. Basically...

Two SolSheet X's with HLG-480H-24A driver and a T-split extension cable = $600 with free shipping, no assembly required. Will kill in a 4x4.

Cree was the early leader in premium COB and "mono" (single color) LEDs, and priced their products at a premium as well. But they didn't see the tech and market shift toward SMDs (surface mount diodes, the small low-voltage LEDs assembled in strings) and SMD strips as the primary light engines...

The Samsung LM561C diodes in the SolStrips are about twice as efficient (light per watt) as Epistars. Epistars are not really considered premium LED diodes because of their relatively poor lm/w scores. SolStrips has a 180 true watt and 300 true watt lamp, as well as components and kits for...

Don't confuse overdriving your driver with overdriving your LEDs. Two different things entirely. Drivers are their most efficient running at 100%. Or, with Mean Well, 120%. The basic rule of efficiency in LED lighting is, run your drivers hard and your LEDs soft.

Mean Well is quite conservative in rating its drivers. They can typically be overdriven by about 15-20%. I've tested the HLG-480H-24As at 620 watts at the wall.

Two SolSheet X's on a Mean Well HLG-480H driver: 600 true watts of premium Samsung LED with average PAR of 800+ across a 4x4 ft canopy at 18". Fluence intensity and spread at Alibaba prices from a US distributor:

SolStrips are a great value in premium LED. They make two assembled lamps - a SolSheet enclosed light in two sizes, and an open SolStix Rack system, in addition to DIY components. Top Samsung diodes for about a dollar per true watt.

You need more light. Like, twice as much light. PPFD in particular. I don't know what your PPFD (photosynthetic intensity) is, but I've done extensive PAR testing on Samsung LED-based lighting racks like yours. And, as a rule of thumb, until you are breaking 30 watts/sf, you ain't playing...