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My mistake, I didn't know the "B" represented dimming capabilities. I was looking at a few lists where the specific drivers with dimming capabilities were listed and the HLG-320H-C1400B was never listed for some reason. The HLG-320 is cheaper though so that's good. For input voltage, when calculating my fixture's requirements it comes out to 183 which means the driver can support that and more. What are you running on your HLG-320 @ 240V?why? as I see it, the only difference between the HVGC-320-1400B and the HLG-320H-C1400B is the HVGC-320-1400B allows for higher input voltages, other than that, they are the same (except the cost).
what is your planned input voltage? I'm running HLG-320H-C1400B with an input voltage of 240V. I also attached a 0-100K potentiometer to the dimmer leads which works well. I just don't know how to gang three drivers on one potentiometer, I know sixstring has done it.
they are both dimmable, the "B" on the end of the part numbers mean they have external dimmer capabilities.
For input voltage, when calculating my fixture's requirements it comes out to 183 which means the driver can support that and more. What are you running on your HLG-320 @ 240V?
Alright then if you're having success at 240v with 6 cobs and it doesn't matter much anyways then I suppose I'll run mine at 240 as well.basically there is no need to calculate the input voltage. Anything from 110V to 305V for the input of the driver will give the specified output. Each of my drivers are plugged into a 240V timed outlet. Each of my drivers output drives six Vero29SE 3000K 90CRI 36.2V COBs.
Alright then if you're having success at 240v with 6 cobs and it doesn't matter much anyways then I suppose I'll run mine at 240 as well.
I checked out your grow btw. You're running a beautiful garden!!
I saw that formula as well. SupraSPL (another guy really knowledgeable on LED stuff, you may have heard of him) said with 100/3 = 33 and there being no exact pot on the market with that rating a 25k with 10k resistor would suffice.so after doing a little reading of the HLG-320H-C1400B spec, the resistance value of the potentiometer will be 0 to 100/N K-ohms where N is the number of drivers you want to dim. in my case, if I wanted to dim all my drivers (3 or them) I would need something a little larger than 0 to 33K-ohm(100/3 K-ohms) pot.
yeah, I've read some of his stuff... very knowledgeable too.SupraSPL (another guy really knowledgeable on LED stuff, you may have heard of him)
there being no exact pot on the market with that rating a 25k with 10k resistor would suffice.
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I read you want to dim the lights down in veg is this not true?yeah, I've read some of his stuff... very knowledgeable too.
that will work, just keep in mind that you won't be able to dim them to complete off...you'll be able to dim them down to 30% of full power which is probably fine. To be honest, I have mine on a dimmer and I haven't needed to dim them at all. They have been set to full power since I've turned them on.
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I read you want to dim the lights down in veg is this not true?
Yeah I think I'd want to dim during veg rather than raise lights because I'll be scrogging and I want the tighter node spacing and short/bushy affect close lights give.I think you'll want to if you have a ton of light because the young plants won't be able to handle the full intensity. What I do instead is just raise the light (non-COB led) in my veg tent to 30 to 40 inches above the plants to start them lower it an inch or two every few days until I get to about 24" and the plants look like they can handle it.
Wow Vero kicks ass past 75w. I think that's what I'm gonna go with.yeah theres been a few guys do the calcs on the various cobs and if memory serves me right it goes
luminous
vero
citi
cree
@ 50w but at 35w per cob the cree moves up to the second spot. and at around 75w the vero pulls ahead as the best.so knowing where you want to run your cobs helps decide what to buy.anything thats 50v will take a totally dif approach to driver selections and wiring.most the 50-52v cobs favor parallel wiring which i dont happen to like much lol.for series wiring the 36v cree,shitizen and 38v vero are the way to go imo. one thing vero offers over all the other cobs is the built in holder/reflector and also wire connections.so they have less extra parts to buy,no soldering,and bridgelux has been around for a while now so very high quality.i have never held a lumi cob so i cant speak on those but to me the shitizens are cheap looking and feeling and your solder game better be on point because the solder pads on those are kinda lame.i have some of the shitizen 1212 in operation here and you need 30 to 40% more cobs to produce the same light per watt,which means more drivers or bigger drivers so theres always that. the lumi 22 is also smaller than cree and vero in actual size,more like a vero 18 so at this point dont rule out the vero 18 if your looking at smaller chips
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