Mate that was the most helpful reply everThis is just fine or you can lower the light around 24inch. Also, for more accurate you can try to measure using tools PPFD/PAR Meter or you can use your phone with Photone App or PPFD Meter, giving your front camera an 80 g/m2 (22 lb) paper will increase app reading according to their apps documentations. Seedling usually need no more than 250 PPFD (increase gradually if you see any deficiency causing by light). But, sometimes they grow a little bit fast especially after they're finishing anchoring their main root down. Since it photos, you control your time of growing them mate. 2+1 most important keys for seedling is, humidity, no need too much fert, and enough light. Good luck!
Thank you mateOh see I think thats considered hydro and again out of my wheelhouse.
I do the same thing, even more. I can say I torture my first seedling to the max. I am pretty sure 2 things that causing your seedling looks like that, a little bit leggy and a little bit droppy leaves (even though this is not the end), that they need more light and water only when the surface dry (2-3 days or more, check the surface). Water near the main stem only 150-250ml of water ph 6.2-6.5. Increase amount of water when they have at least two pair of true leaves also water it wider on surface when they reach minimum 2 pair true leavs.Mate that was the most helpful reply ever
Its my first time and ive been panicking
As a i know droopy means somethings wrong. Im not sure wether the lights are affecting it or the water. I water every day around 6pm. Its just something is off i can sense it just cant get my head around it
No hard feeling mate, we do want the best for Newguy420, since it photoperiod let our mate dig some research and discuss here. But, looking at the pics, i'm pretty sure it just overwatering and light intensity problems, not nutes lockout.My only goal here is to get @Newguy420 best results. no offense to @empty. There are lots of ways to grow and sometimes the details are important. But again Im not an expert I just googled it.
The ideal pH range for growing cannabis in coco coir is 5.5 to 6.5, with an optimal target range of 5.8 to 6.2.
- Optimal Range: Most growers aim for a pH between 5.8 and 6.2 for general growth.
- Allow for Fluctuation: It is beneficial to let the pH naturally drift up and down within the acceptable 5.5-6.5 range between waterings. This ensures that all essential nutrients, which are soluble at different pH levels, remain available for the plant to absorb.
- Nutrient Lockout: Maintaining a pH outside the optimal range for too long can lead to nutrient lockout, where the plant cannot absorb specific elements (e.g., calcium is less available below 5.8 pH, and phosphorus is less available above 6.4 pH).
- Monitoring: Regularly test the pH of both the nutrient solution going in and the runoff water coming out of the pot. The runoff pH should be close to the input pH; significant deviations can indicate underlying issues in the root zone.
I agree.watering and light
I would definitely lower the lightsHey merkle Thankyou i will send attach my set up now and see what you think
Great explanation, I once experiencing using only coco, but as you explain, due to its drainage, etc, later I always mixed it with perlite, compost and worm casting. Been tried dwc and hydro, not as hard as using coco. No hard feeling to coco lover here but its just not my thingOp.
You are in coco not soil. You can not treat this like a soil grow. Coco is hydro in all respect. The substance coco is inert. It has no nutes in it other than what you put in the water. Coco folks fertigate as every single water has feed in it.
The expanding brick that the link goes to is not charged or buffered. It will need a specific soak to recharge and buffer the media you are using.
Most coco runners use a drain to waste system either hand or automated feed. The reason for this is difficulty in diagnosing feed issues as coco happens so fast. If you do not take care of the EC readings on your fertigations with in and out measurements things can get sideways in a hurry. Ph should always be tracked and adjusted in coco. You can grow in coco without chemical measurement tools but there will be challenges pinpointing the correct feed rate.
Coco being inert loves to capture certain nutrients. It is recommended that coco be soaked in cal-mag to reduce the potential for magnesium bleaching into the coco. In addition cal-mag is normally given often to keep the coco as well as the plant charged up with magnesium.
Now if you did all of this or bought a presoaked pre charged products you will need a coco grower to help you. I run soil and organics but the setup and processes for coco growing are available here on the farm
Hit those 3 horizontal bars and navigate to forums. From there find the grow diaries section. Once in diaries use the spyglass to add search terms such as coco and the nutes you are using. It will show you folks diaries who have already btdt and have the pictures.
Good luck.
Lux meter costs around 15$Kinda out of my wheelhouse. Im only confident speaking about autos. One thing Id suggest is some way to measure your light instead of guesstimating. Even an inaccurate app on your phone can give you a close enough reading to work with.
I agree with you bud but free is nothing and comes with no excuses.Lux meter costs around 15$
Free lies a little.I agree with you bud but free is nothing and comes with no excuses.
Hey an update. I have my lights 28inches above canopy. And yesterday i gave them a shot glass of ph 5.8 water eachMy only goal here is to get @Newguy420 best results. no offense to @empty. There are lots of ways to grow and sometimes the details are important. But again Im not an expert I just googled it.
The ideal pH range for growing cannabis in coco coir is 5.5 to 6.5, with an optimal target range of 5.8 to 6.2.
- Optimal Range: Most growers aim for a pH between 5.8 and 6.2 for general growth.
- Allow for Fluctuation: It is beneficial to let the pH naturally drift up and down within the acceptable 5.5-6.5 range between waterings. This ensures that all essential nutrients, which are soluble at different pH levels, remain available for the plant to absorb.
- Nutrient Lockout: Maintaining a pH outside the optimal range for too long can lead to nutrient lockout, where the plant cannot absorb specific elements (e.g., calcium is less available below 5.8 pH, and phosphorus is less available above 6.4 pH).
- Monitoring: Regularly test the pH of both the nutrient solution going in and the runoff water coming out of the pot. The runoff pH should be close to the input pH; significant deviations can indicate underlying issues in the root zone.
ed a tiny bit of shogun fertilizer every saturday but now ive read i shoulldOp.
You are in coco not soil. You can not treat this like a soil grow. Coco is hydro in all respect. The substance coco is inert. It has no nutes in it other than what you put in the water. Coco folks fertigate as every single water has feed in it.
The expanding brick that the link goes to is not charged or buffered. It will need a specific soak to recharge and buffer the media you are using.
Most coco runners use a drain to waste system either hand or automated feed. The reason for this is difficulty in diagnosing feed issues as coco happens so fast. If you do not take care of the EC readings on your fertigations with in and out measurements things can get sideways in a hurry. Ph should always be tracked and adjusted in coco. You can grow in coco without chemical measurement tools but there will be challenges pinpointing the correct feed rate.
Coco being inert loves to capture certain nutrients. It is recommended that coco be soaked in cal-mag to reduce the potential for magnesium bleaching into the coco. In addition cal-mag is normally given often to keep the coco as well as the plant charged up with magnesium.
Now if you did all of this or bought a presoaked pre charged products you will need a coco grower to help you. I run soil and organics but the setup and processes for coco growing are available here on the farm
Hit those 3 horizontal bars and navigate to forums. From there find the grow diaries section. Once in diaries use the spyglass to add search terms such as coco and the nutes you are using. It will show you folks diaries who have already btdt and have the pictures.
Good luck.
I have realised my fault i have been watering my seedlings that are in coco with normal pure plain water. No nutrients at all. Meaning they needed a+b everytime i waterOp.
You are in coco not soil. You can not treat this like a soil grow. Coco is hydro in all respect. The substance coco is inert. It has no nutes in it other than what you put in the water. Coco folks fertigate as every single water has feed in it.
The expanding brick that the link goes to is not charged or buffered. It will need a specific soak to recharge and buffer the media you are using.
Most coco runners use a drain to waste system either hand or automated feed. The reason for this is difficulty in diagnosing feed issues as coco happens so fast. If you do not take care of the EC readings on your fertigations with in and out measurements things can get sideways in a hurry. Ph should always be tracked and adjusted in coco. You can grow in coco without chemical measurement tools but there will be challenges pinpointing the correct feed rate.
Coco being inert loves to capture certain nutrients. It is recommended that coco be soaked in cal-mag to reduce the potential for magnesium bleaching into the coco. In addition cal-mag is normally given often to keep the coco as well as the plant charged up with magnesium.
Now if you did all of this or bought a presoaked pre charged products you will need a coco grower to help you. I run soil and organics but the setup and processes for coco growing are available here on the farm
Hit those 3 horizontal bars and navigate to forums. From there find the grow diaries section. Once in diaries use the spyglass to add search terms such as coco and the nutes you are using. It will show you folks diaries who have already btdt and have the pictures.
Good luck.
They are going to need more than that. Your coco is unbuffered and was not presoaked with cal-magI have realised my fault i have been watering my seedlings that are in coco with normal pure plain water. No nutrients at all. Meaning they needed a+b everytime i water
Yeah your 1000% ive had a few tell me how stupid i was for not pre soaking etc. i have been out and bought canna coco a+b so any advice on that to make my plants happy again would really help. I defintely know to change medium now lolThey are going to need more than that. Your coco is unbuffered and was not presoaked with cal-mag
You will need to use nutes every feed and cal-mag every feed. You will need to pH adjust the mixture and you will need to track your EC / ppm to ensure your nutrients are effective.
You should also have some type of additive like sledge hammer to rinse the coco either periodically or when needed. For a new grower in coco I recommend following a schedule as you may not have the experience to know when a lockout had happened.
Coco is a great medium to grow in but a lot of the technical aspects are NOT optional.
Review data on running coco. If it is not something you can do with the demands perhaps choosing a slower but more controllable grow method like soil and organics. A 5 gallon pot and a bag of ocean forest and transplant that girl. Get some Dr earth gold and flower girl. Get some earth worm castings. Don't bother with pH and EC testing.
Grow some weed.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?