120/240v ballast plugs

[ScuzyRoach]

Hey everyone kinda a dumb ass question but i'm a mj patient whos had a long day. I'm trying to set up a friend w/ a master lighting controller to run his ballasts at 240 so he can hook up 4 1000's using less amps. My ballasts all have the slide cover where you move the plug from either 120 to 240. They say you need a different plug but if you have universal x-plug outlets you just switch your reg. cord to the 240v slot. My ? is his ballasts dont have that feature to move the cord. The ballast label however states 9.5 amps/120v and 5 amps/240v. So can i still use the normal cord since it fits the outlet? Also how is the ballast set up to know what type of power 120/240 is coming in.
I found this description of his ballast.

Exclusive MVP™ feature allows user to easily switch from 120 to 240 volt power without the need to rewire the ballast. Simply unplug the detachable 120 volt cord &plug in the 240 volt cord. US Patent Nos: D543941

So is there any difference in the 120/240 plugs except the ends. I've used mine like i said w/ no problems. I think most people just dont have a universal outlet so they need the 240v cord.

Thanks for any help. I always try to be over careful when messing w/ elec. I can frame like a mutha but that damn power is scary.:bong-hits:

 

[squarepusher]

is it an sideways plug outlet, or standard vertical?

 

[CAPO]

never heard of a ballast that you don't have to rewire the tap-wire inside the ballast or flip the switch..........mmmmm interesting.
I have my ballasts wired at the interior taps with the 240v. I still use my 120v ballast power cord that plugs into my CAP MLC4a. The CAP controller runs off of 240v but has 120v style plugs.


Hope this helps... I'm forever bugging manufacturing Reps with questions (I think they like it.lol)!

 

[REGISTRD]

statement on ballast applies to customrs who have old style 240 outlet, you are correct, just use same plug.

:yes Correct! just use the same plug..

As Capo put though ive never heard of a ballast thats mulitapped inside the ballast kinda odd!

 

[ScuzyRoach]

MVP cord outlet

never heard of a ballast that you don't have to rewire the tap-wire inside the ballast or flip the switch..........mmmmm interesting.
I have my ballasts wired at the interior taps with the 240v. I still use my 120v ballast power cord that plugs into my CAP MLC4a. The CAP controller runs off of 240v but has 120v style plugs.

I am going to use the same CAP MLC-4x since mine works great. I love the fact you can plug both types of ends in to their outlet. But like u said i think not having to rewire or switch is interesting. the ballasts are about 3 yrs old. Its their SS 1 1000w hps. Everything says the MVP cord outlet, no need to change things. I guess i'll plug one in and see if fries the shit out of if. or suck it up and call Sun Systems like a big boy.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[REGISTRD]

just plug it in 240.. If the ballast isnt multitapped youll notice right away im pretty sure it wont fire!

 

[ScuzyRoach]

well me and my friend fired one up and sizzle sizzle. instantly started humming really bad so i made him unplug it. he looked at the cord again it even says both types of voltage/amps. . anyways he's stuborn as hell so he thought it was just old and dirty and plugged it back in. this time it really fried the shit out of it. I fucking told him it was weird to me. So then he plugs in another one where it reads on the back of the plug in the same thing. Fucking starts a crazy humming again so i popped his main switch. ended up still working in the 120 plugs though. He is finally going to call them tomorrow. I guess never trust anything that sounds too good to be true. lucky r friend works at a shop and is going to send in the fried one. SUN SYSTEM 1 1000 w HPS !!!THE MVP PLUG OUTLET SUCKS!!! I gues their patent pending idea didn't catch on or work worth a ....

 

[CAPO]

Is a type of ballast that you can take the cover off of? I'm curious as can get. Sorry to hear it fried. It's pretty easy to dissect a ballast and replace a capacitor or wiring. Just need a good multi-meter.

Are you absolutely sure that you matched the 240v wiring to the controller? Are you using a dryer connect or a sub-panel. You got to be real careful to color match the wiring with a dryer plug and know how to ground, as the unit would instruct.

 

[ScuzyRoach]

Finally figured it out. They use or used a four pronged plug in for the 120/240 power supply on the ballast. Two in the center and one on top and one below. Their 120v cord is active to 3 of the them. The 240 cord ,they sell seperate, is wired to hook up to the same 2 main center and the opposite one that the 120 activates. Both cords have 4 holes which they need to fit into the ballast (only 3 are active). so the ballast part is wired internally for both 120 and 240. It's the fucking plug that tells it which wires to use. Unlike r normal Sun System ballasts where only the end of plug is different and we have to manually switch where we plug it into. Seems simple as they said to use their 240 cord. Thing is, they say the same thing about my ballast/cords. Thats why we all figured the cords should be fine. Also, the MVP 120V cord says 9.5A/120v 4.5A/240v. It doesn't work for 240v power so dont use it. Just must be the same mold in their rubber cord manufacturing process. Go figure, I medicate a lot so little things like this seem to avoid my thoughts. Oh well my homie works at a shop and is sending it in to be fixed. Only have to pay $25 to ship it. Cheap mistake i guess in the long run. Just down a ballast for a week, no loners for dip shits. He had to make me pay one way or another.

 

[socalsfinestmmj]

Hey everyone I had a bad thing happen lastjigjt at the op at my buddies. We just got a lighting controller hooked up to a 30 amp dryer outlet.. the controller is setup for 4 240 and 2 120 timed controlled by a trigger cord. And 2 always on 120 . My buddie plugged in the 1000 SS -x into the timed 120 and then plugged in the trigger and"zap pop sizzle " saw spark from.outlet and ballast smoking... I went and checked out the damage this morning and realized the dryer outlet had been wired wrong ! At least I think so ... it was wired with a hot lead on the neutral terminal.and visaversa... so I'm almost 100 percent this fried my ballast .. when I opened the ballast I see the white neutral coming in was melted and black at the wire nuts just inside. ..is there anyway to fix It quickly since were in second week of flowering and need light!

 

[chazbolin]

A hot wire going to the ground at the outlet means you energized the case of the controller and permanent damage has been done.

A little late now but always check the 240 outlets first with a meter to confirm there is no power on the neutral or ground screws. Same with 120volt outlets. For polarity the live wire should always be feeding the smaller of the two receptacle slots.

 

[Dr.stickerdick]

I wish people would stop using three wire ( hot- hot- ground) dryer outlets for feeding a sub pannel. You should only use four wire (hot- hot- neutral- ground) outlets. Failure to do so causes a neutral to ground bond in the sub pannel which can put unwanted current on metal grounded surfaces and IMO "noise" from diggi ballasts, resulting in detection of grow. Never bond neutral to ground after the main pannel. Did you take any voltage readings, and what are they?

 

[HeadGrow]

I wish people would stop using three wire ( hot- hot- ground) dryer outlets for feeding a sub pannel. You should only use four wire (hot- hot- neutral- ground) outlets. Failure to do so causes a neutral to ground bond in the sub pannel which can put unwanted current on metal grounded surfaces and IMO "noise" from diggi ballasts, resulting in detection of grow. Never bond neutral to ground after the main pannel. Did you take any voltage readings, and what are they?

you shouldn't tie the neutral to ground if you don't need it? my cap controller only has a 3 wire hook up (hot hot ground) but the circuit was ran in 4 wire. I was told to tie the neutral wire to the ground lug if i didn't need it.

But i've also read that you can just leave it hanging. I figured bonding the neutral to ground would be better. Should I leave it hang?

 

[socalsfinestmmj]

First off it was a 4 wire outlet. It was just swtiched with the neutral nit the ground so the controller was not damaged. .and ballast is fine just revonnected wires and everything is good. I will be rewording from 120 to 240 next week.