MrSativa
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you can see the top layer is dark and wet so no water
Discussion below · 887 replies
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JIMKSI64
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Mine look this way last 2 hours of the day.Guys,
I just took a quick look in the tent before the lights go out to check if they need water later when the light goes back on, but they look droopy... Why ?
Pots still feel heavy, so i don't think they are drry ?
Plant pressure drops internally and you loose the table top flatness of the leafs.
I call that specific look " tired" and I do not worry about it as long as I get the upright presentation for nearly the whole day.
If most of the day they look upright I do not worry about it but lowering light levels can halt the end of day droop.
And reduce growth and stretch nodes.
Low water level can also do this so lift the pot and feel. You might be at the tail end of the water cycle.
Remember at some point you can no longer gang water the grow. Different plants can have different water use profiles
420Captain
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I should not worry ? Before i went to bed they were "parying".
Yes, i lifted the pots to check on the weight, they feel heavy enough not to be dry. Okay, i worry too much ?
Yes, i lifted the pots to check on the weight, they feel heavy enough not to be dry. Okay, i worry too much ?
JIMKSI64
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Or you worry just enough.I should not worry ? Before i went to bed they were "parying".
. Okay, i worry too much ?
420Captain
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gmonster714
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Anytime is a good time. If it blocks a site remove it.Do you remove leafs daily, weakly ? Do they need to recover from it for some days ? I'm afraid to take away to much
If they are droopy hours after watering they need to dry out. Id put a fan on the floor hitting the pots.
If your over watering some may even show brown crispy tips on leaves and poor posture unexpected from the plant.
N toxicity is pretty obvious. I use Jacks classic 202020 in veg stage along with calcium nitrate. Calnit has N so you must be careful with dosing. This is what a N tox looks like.
I dont take flushing a plant lightly and I rarely do it but in this case I did. N is fairly easy to move as a nutrient. A week later and it started showing positive progress.
Brother_Antioch
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No. You need to measure your EC (or ppm) prior to adding any nutrients. That number becomes your "Zero" or baseline. Then, add nutrients as per the schedule based on the amount of water and retest the EC again. Then you have to subtract the original EC reading from your tap water and that will give you your nutrient strength. If you're not testing it until you've added everything, you've included all minerals etc. from your tap water into your calculations, but you don't know what they are.But I'm measuring EC.
Isn't it the total value that counts? And I'm measuring that after adding nutrients, so it should be correct according to schedule ?
Think of it like weighing some weed on a scale. You don't zero it out, then put a dish on it and add weed. If you do, you end up with the 7g of weed "weighing" 27g because you didn't factor in the 20g weight of the container. See what I mean? By taking the reading prior to adding nutrients, you're "zeroing out" the scale with the container sitting on it, so to speak.
Hope that clarifies things.
Cheers,
BA.
Grownsince95
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Cannabis is going to droop shortly before lights off until they come back on. It's called nyctinasty and it's totally normal. Try to make judgements about the posture of the plant midday if you can. I know sometimes our schedules don't exactly align with them so some of us use cameras. If you time lapse them, they basically flap their leaves every day like a bird flaps its wings.I should not worry ? Before i went to bed they were "parying".
Yes, i lifted the pots to check on the weight, they feel heavy enough not to be dry. Okay, i worry too much ?
420Captain
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So if I understand correctly, I'm measuring 0.4 EC from the tap.No. You need to measure your EC (or ppm) prior to adding any nutrients. That number becomes your "Zero" or baseline. Then, add nutrients as per the schedule based on the amount of water and retest the EC again. Then you have to subtract the original EC reading from your tap water and that will give you your nutrient strength. If you're not testing it until you've added everything, you've included all minerals etc. from your tap water into your calculations, but you don't know what they are.
Think of it like weighing some weed on a scale. You don't zero it out, then put a dish on it and add weed. If you do, you end up with the 7g of weed "weighing" 27g because you didn't factor in the 20g weight of the container. See what I mean? By taking the reading prior to adding nutrients, you're "zeroing out" the scale with the container sitting on it, so to speak.
Hope that clarifies things.
Cheers,
BA.
The schedule currently calls for 1.6 EC, so should I supplement with nutrient solution to reach 2.0 EC?
Grownsince95
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No. The ppm/EC in your tap is part of the total. This is why it's hard for people with very hard tap water to grow. .4 EC is right on the upper level of you will be fine. I'm using .6 EC tap water and I reduce my feed slightly to compensate but even my seedlings get like 1.2 EC. Your nute manufacturer calculates their numbers on RO water.So if I understand correctly, I'm measuring 0.4 EC from the tap.
The schedule currently calls for 1.6 EC, so should I supplement with nutrient solution to reach 2.0 EC?
Having said that, it's perfectly fine to give them 2.0 if they can handle it. Eliminate any use of calmag and keep in mind that you're adding extra Ca and Mg to the equation from the tap. This might lead you to increase K, especially in flower because the balance of those 3 are essential.
What line of nutrients are you using?
420Captain
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i use this one from plagron. I also have the sugar royal.
I never give more then the chart says.
I never give more then the chart says.
gmonster714
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So relying on tap water to provide enough calcium and magnesium? Does that work in your grows? Im curious now..lolNo. The ppm/EC in your tap is part of the total. This is why it's hard for people with very hard tap water to grow. .4 EC is right on the upper level of you will be fine. I'm using .6 EC tap water and I reduce my feed slightly to compensate but even my seedlings get like 1.2 EC. Your nute manufacturer calculates their numbers on RO water.
Having said that, it's perfectly fine to give them 2.0 if they can handle it. Eliminate any use of calmag and keep in mind that you're adding extra Ca and Mg to the equation from the tap. This might lead you to increase K, especially in flower because the balance of those 3 are essential.
What line of nutrients are you using?
If the base isnt providing them both it'll throw unhealthy leaf with brown spots creeping in.
Grownsince95
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Not relying no. My base (GH micro) has plenty of both. Plus the added from the water and it's never a problem.So relying on tap water to provide enough calcium and magnesium? Does that work in your grows? Im curious now..lol
If the base isnt providing them both it'll throw unhealthy leaf with brown spots creeping in.
Grownsince95
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Ok so I just looked up the phlagron and from what I can tell it's meant for soil and does not contain calcium but does have Mg.i use this one from plagron. I also have the sugar royal.
I never give more then the chart says.
View attachment 2611479
If that's in fact true, you're probably good to go with your tap water. If you run into Ca problems you may need to do a deeper dive into what the EC of your water is actually made of.
gmonster714
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My chart consists of....1/2tsp Jacks classic or bloom..depending on the cycle. 1/4tsp calcium nitrate, 1/4tsp gal epsom salt 1x a week, and tap water. I do not check ph, ppm, ec, nada. Dump, stir, water. I call it shortbus gardening...super simple.i use this one from plagron. I also have the sugar royal.
I never give more then the chart says.
View attachment 2611479
Everyone gets the same from early veg to late flower.
Last edited:
trygrowup
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I'd like to see you compare the ppm from your runoff against your input again Captain..
And @gmonster714 1/4 gal epsom salt?
And @gmonster714 1/4 gal epsom salt?
gmonster714
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Or
Kinda avoid the calcium issue if ya can before it shows. Stay healthy
Or maybe just keep feeding the calmag or a mixture of calcium nitrate and epsom. If there's no support for them in the base calcium issues will show up.Ok so I just looked up the phlagron and from what I can tell it's meant for soil and does not contain calcium but does have Mg.
If that's in fact true, you're probably good to go with your tap water. If you run into Ca problems you may need to do a deeper dive into what the EC of your water is actually made of.
Kinda avoid the calcium issue if ya can before it shows. Stay healthy
gmonster714
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Editited...thanks lol.I'd like to see you compare the ppm from your runoff against your input again Captain..
And @gmonster714 1/4 gal epsom salt?
Grownsince95
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The OP is growing in peat based soil. Adding unnecessary Ca and Mg is eventually going to create a salty mess. No bueno.Or
Or maybe just keep feeding the calmag or a mixture of calcium nitrate and epsom. If there's no support for them in the base calcium issues will show up.
Kinda avoid the calcium issue if ya can before it shows. Stay healthy
gmonster714
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I can appreciate the the promix. I use the promix hp version. I add calcium with every watering along with a salty mess of Jacks.The OP is growing in peat based soil. Adding unnecessary Ca and Mg is eventually going to create a salty mess. No bueno.
To add to the salts buildup. I've never experienced any. I feed with salts exclusively. 1 gallon of water w food is all they get. Rarely any run off and I do not flush as I feed to week 9. I think my weed grows pretty good.
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