Yes asorbic acid (vitamin c) will neutralize chlorine and calcium carbonate is a base that will neutralize acid. However adding it will raise ph so you would in turn have to use more phosphoric acid to bring the ph back down. A better option would have been to switch water sources or mix with RO as it sounds like high chlorine and a high amount of carbonates and bicarbonates were in your tap water.I encountered this exact set of symptoms while growing blue dream about 5 years ago. I was also using tap water, and as it turns out, there had been some flooding in my area resulting in the sewer system overflowing and entering the water system. Standard practice in the instance was to give a massive dose of chlorine to the water supply.
I took a sample and brought it to my uncle for testing (he's an agricultural chemist) and sure enough, chlorine levels were through the roof. It turns out that what I was experiencing was probably chlorosis combined with nutrient lockout. I was having to use too much ph down to adjust my res, which come to find out is phosphoric acid, so even though my ph was good, it caused nutrient lockout from too much P.
My uncle gave me an asorbic acid (I think) solution to neutralize the chlorine, and a calcium bicarbonate (I think) solution to neutralize the acid. After a couple days of flushing, I started at half the nutes I was using and worked my way back up over the next few days, and ended up making it through harvest without further incident.
Not sure if this helps...
Jack's 3-2-1, Masterblend & Megacrop are also more cost-effective, and in my opinion better & simpler options then the buy-a-dozen-bottles type products, good luck!So you’re saying you can use 1 bottle of PBP “Grow” no “Bloom” from start to finish. And get awesome results? Why wouldn’t you use the bloom also? In the mean time if you could pick your buddy’s brain about his Canna recipe I’d owe you one man. Seriously.
That's alot of ph down but also the type of acid used to lower ph makes a difference. Is that citric acid on the label if so it's good for soil but phosphoric or sulfuric is far superior for hydro.Interesting. Because I too have city water. The ppm’s come out to 130 with a ph of 7.2-8.5 ph. It’s a 30 gallon res and after I add nutrients it usually takes about 15-18 mls of PH down to get my ph to 5.7-5.9. I use Advanced nutrients ph down. I should get the water checked.
Interesting. Because I too have city water. The ppm’s come out to 130 with a ph of 7.2-8.5 ph. It’s a 30 gallon res and after I add nutrients it usually takes about 15-18 mls of PH down to get my ph to 5.7-5.9. I use Advanced nutrients ph down. I should get the water checked.
White flies have caused a few grows to burn black and shitty as well. The sugar from the seeping wounds that they cause causes the burning buds to carbonize, giving you a black ash and lousy burning. I would imagine ANY insect that causes damage like this will result in the same lousy burning stuff.chlorine/chloride and too much P are the 2 main culprits for pot that burns black an goes out constantly, in addition to causing issues with nutrient uptake and overall plant health.
The beauty about city water is you can get annual water reports with the actual breakdown of Na, Cl, Ca, and Fe and mostly everything else. Usually on the website or can go down to the water dept and get a copy. If you are on city water you will have Cl and Na in the water. Just want to make sure it's not overblown. Also make sure your city doesnt change it's feed source though the seasons. That can sometimes bite you in the ass when you get on an assumption your water is always 130ppm and then all of a sudden it shoots up to 450 ppm.
Same 150ppm is about my max but depends on the make if that ppmAlso with that being said, me personally, anything over about 110-120 or so ppm I would filter unless it was all Ca. Most of the time though it starts to jump from Na.
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